North Of Hofburg

Running north from Michaelerplatz to Schottentor, this quarter of the Innere Stadt is peppered with palaces and churches. Her-rengasse (Lords Lane) has the majority of the grand houses, including Palais Mollard (housing the Globenmuseum), Ferstal Harrach, and Kinsky. Palais Ferstel (Map pp254-5) dates from 1860 and is better known for its occupants, the Caf Central (pl39) and the Freyung Passage, a highly ornate passageway lined with elegant shops. PalaisHarrach (Map pp254-5) is connected by...

Altwaren Auctions

Although you may never dream of dropping into Sotheby's for a quick browse, when in Vienna it seems perfectly natural to inspect what's on offer at the Dorotheum (Map pp254-5 9 > 515 60-0 www.doro theum.com 01, Dorotheergasse 17 i10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat bus 2A, 3A). Amongst the largest auction houses in Europe, this is the apex of Vienna's l ftraren-consumer culture, the Flohmarkt's wealthy uncle. Something between a museum and the fanciest car-boot sale you ever saw, the rooms are...

Municipal Museums

The City of Vienna runs 17 municipal museums (www.museum.vienna.at) scattered around the city, all of which are included in a free booklet available at the Rathaus. The largest of the city's municipal museums is the Wien Museum (above), which covers the history of Vienna. Others are based in the former residences of great composers, and generally contain assorted memorabilia and furniture of their previous inhabitants, while a few are quite unique, including the Roman ruins (p68) and the Uhren...

Cycling Viennas Parklands Waterways

This tour takes in Vienna's favourite park and its biggest waterways. With no strenuous hills - and for the most part following well-marked cycle lanes - it can be tackled by almost anyone at their own pace. From Schwedenplatz head north along the western bank of the Danube Canal - not via the busy road, but down on the cycle and running path which hugs the canal. Glide past the Summer Stage 1 (pl28) near Rossauer Br cke, which, if it's summer, will be in full swing, and continue on your way...

Graben Kohlmarkt

With K rntner Strasse, Graben and Kohlmarkt make up Vienna s holy trinity of streets. These pedestrian arteries which connect the Hofburg with Stephansdom are rarely empty of people beating a well-trodden path between the two. Graben, which runs northwest from the junction of Stock-im-Eisen-Platz and K rntner Strasse, started life as a protective ditch (Graben means 'ditch) for the Roman encampment. Today it is lined with expensive shops and historical and Jugendstilhui dings. Particularly...

Index

See also separate indexes for Eating (p248), Drinking (p249), Entertainment (p249), Shopping (p250) and Sleeping (p250). Jazz Fest Wien 11 Jelinek, Elfriede 34 Jews 41,44-5,79,80 J disches Museum 59 Museum Judenplatz 66-7 Johann Strauss Denkmal 32 Johann Strauss Residence 82 Josefstadt 91-2 accommodation 200-1 drinking 141-2,158-60 eating 134 shopping 189-90 Josephinum 94 Jubil umswarte 97-8 Judenplatz 66 J disches Museum 59 Jugendstil 23-6 Justizpalast 69 Kahlenberg 103 drinking 143 walking...

Mariahilf

06, Schadekgasse 3 www.hotkultur.at in German h 11am-7pm & 9pm-4am b U3 Neubaugasse, bus13A Junky, but funky - Ewa's is a club by night, a trashy retro clothing shop by day. A DJ spins discs as you pause between racks and sit at the bar for a drink. The clothes are from the polyester and frayed cuff school of secondhand, but the vodka is cheap and the ambience is interesting. LICHTERLOH Map pp254-5 Furniture 581 83 06 www.lichterloh.com 06, Gumpen-dorferstrasse 15-17 h11am-6.30pm Mon-Fri,...

Inside The Gurtel Wieden

587 82 97 04, Schleifmiihlgasse 19 h5pm-2am Mon, 11am-2am Tue-Sat bus 59A This corner cafe attracts an arty crowd and many of Vienna'sjazz musicians. Both the decor and atmosphere are laid-back, and the food, which has a distinct Croatian slant, is highly recommended. There's also a pool table. 505 99 04 04, Kiinstlerhauspassage h 10pm-4am b U1, U2, U4 Karlsplatz Club U occupies one of Otto Wagner's Stadtbahn Pavilions on Karlsplatz (p89). It's a small, student-infested bar club with regular...

East Of Stephansplatz

BEIM CZAAK Map pp254-5 Beisl 513 72 15 01, Postgasse 15 midday menus 6.50, mains 5.50-12.50 h8.30am-midnight Mon-Fri, 1pm-midnightSat bill,U4Schweden-platz, j N, 1,2,21 Beim Czaak is a polished Beisl, and one of only a handful left in the Innere Stadt. Meat dominates the menu, and hard choices need to be made between the likes of the Waldvierteler Schnitzel (with fried bacon, onions and mushrooms) and the Haiis Schnitzel (weighted down with ham, cheese, mushrooms and onions - yum). Standard...

Jewish Quarter Around

01, Hoher Markt sausages from 3 h 7am-4am bus 1A, 2A, 3A Wiirstelstand am Hoher Markt attracts people from all walks of life with its consistently good sausages, central location and long opening hours. Try the Kasekrainer, a hearty sausage infused with cheese it can be a messy affair, but something you won't forget in a hurry. If you're feeling cocky, order it with Eitrige mit an Buck (loosely translated, it's the equivalent of 'a hunchback full of pus1) which will get you the sausage plus the...

Language

It's true - anyone can speak another language. Don't worry if you haven't studied languages before or that you studied a language at school for years and can't remember any of it. It doesn't even matter if you failed English grammar. After all, that's never affected your ability to speak English And this is the key to picking up a language in another country. You just need to start speaking. Learn a few key phrases before you go. Write them on pieces of paper and stick them on the fridge, by...

Ottakring The Wienerwald

The green belt of the Wienerwald on the western edge of Vienna is inviting for both walkers and cyclists. This walk dips into the woods bordering Ottakring and passes by small pockets of vineyards. It's for those with a reasonable fitness level, and its best to bring water and snacks as refuelling stations only appear towards the end. Also, wear sturdy shoes. From the U3 end station Ottakring catch bus 46B nine stops to Feuerwache am Steinhof 1 at the corner of Johann-Straud-Strasse and...

Schnbrunn

Schloss Sch nbrunn and its adjoining garden are second only to Versailles in a show of imperial wealth and might, but that wasn t the idea this baroque palace is a much-diminished version of the grandiose imperial centrepiece that was originally planned. The name comes from the Sch ner Brunnen (Beautiful Fountain), which was built around a spring that Emperor Matthias (1557-1619) found while hunting. A pleasure palace was built here by Ferdinand II in 1637, but this was razed by the Turks in...

Hitler In Vienna

Born in Braunau am Inn, Upper Austria, in 1889, with the name Adolf Schicklgruber (his father changed the family name when they moved to Germany in 1893), Adolf Hitler moved to Vienna when he was just 17. Six unsettled, unsuccessful, poverty-stricken years later he abandoned the city and moved to Munich to make a name for himself. He later wrote in Mein Kampfthat his Vienna years were 'a time of the greatest transformation that I have ever been through. From a weakcitizen of the world I became...

Hofburg

Like Schloss Schonbrunn and Schloss Belvedere, the Hofburg (Imperial Palace Map pp254-5) is an incredible show of imperial power and the depths of an imperial purse. This impressive repository of culture and heritage was the home to one the most powerful empires Europe has ever seen the Habsburgs based themselves here for over six centuries, from the first emperor in 1279 (Rudolph I) to the last in 1918 (Charles I). In that time new sections were periodically added, resulting in the hotchpotch...

Swimming

Swimming is easily the favoured summer pastime of the Viennese. The Donauinsel, Alte Donau and Lobau are often swamped with citizens eager to cool off on steamy hot summer days. Topless sunbathing is quite the norm, as is nude sunbathing but only in designated areas much of Lobau and both tips of the Donauinsel are FKK Freik rperkultur free body culture areas. Alongside the natural swimming areas are a large number of swimming pools owned and run by the city which open 9am to 8pm Monday to...

Directory

Vienna is well connected to the rest of the world and can be reached by no-frill and fall-frill airlines. Bratislava, Slovakia's capital, only 60km east of Vienna, is a highly feasible alternative to flying into Austria. To find a flight online, try the following Exp dia www.expedia.com www.expedia.co.uk Lists major airline flights from the UK and USA the earlier you book the better. Flight Centre www.flightcentre.com Respected operator handling direct flights, with sites for Australia, New...

Markets

With globalisation storming the world, multinational chain stores gobbling up local shops and independent retailers being forced into early retirement, it's refreshing to know that in Vienna the traditional market is still alive and kicking. Almost every district has at least one market selling fresh produce from Monday to Saturday, many reflecting the ethnic diversity of their neighbourhood. Some host Bauernm rkte farmers markets on Saturday mornings, where growers from the surrounding...

Stadtheurigen

406 46 28 08, Piaristengasse 27 h 4pm-m id-night, closed Jan-Mar bus 13A Weinstube Josefstadt is one the loveliest Stadtheurigen in the city. Its garden is a barely controlled green oasis amongst concrete residential blocks, and tables are squeezed in between the trees and shrubs. Food is typical, with a buffet-style selection and plenty of cheap meats chicken wings go for only 1 . The friendly, well-liquored locals come free of charge. The location is not well sign-posted the only sign of its...

North Of Hfburg

SOUPKULTUR Map pp254-5 Soups amp Salads 532 46 28 01, Wipplingerstrasse 32 soups around 5, salads around 7 h11.30am-3.30pm Mon-Thu, 11.30am-3pm Fri bus 1A, 3A Soupkultur caters to office workers in search of a healthy bite on the run. Organic produce and aromatic spices are used to create eight different soups and six varieties of salads each week, which can range from red-lentil soup or traditional Hungarian goulash to Caesar salad or chicken and orange salad. There is a token seating area,...

Western Vienna

Western Vienna takes in the districts of Liesing, Hietzing, Penzing, Rudolfsheim-Fiinfhaus, Ottakring, and Hernals. Here the Wienerwald ends and the city begins from west to east the districts structures change from spacious villas at the woods edge to five-storey apartment blocks surrounding concrete parks near the Gurtel. In between are Jugendstil and Biedermeier delights, an imperial palace and ethnic diversity - a snapshot of Vienna, combining both past and future. Much of the spread that...

Detour Gourmet Danube

The Danube Valley swell known for its culinary delights and viticulture, both of which heavily follow the seasons. A day spent sampling both can be a very rewarding experience, but for the best quality it pays to be a little picky. Morwald im Kloster Und 9602732-704 93 Undstrasse 6 mains 20-30 h noon-2pm, 6-10pm Tue-Sun in Krems combines a stylish interior with an impressive selection of wine. Its European cuisine is outstanding, and its head chef, Leonard Cernko, was voted 2006 Cookof the Year...

Landstrasse

Landstrasse, the largest of the districts inside the G rtel, is cordoned by the Danube Canal to the east and Wieden to the west Prinz-Eugen-Strasse and Arsenalstrasse are the dividing lines . Its northerly reaches, near the Ringstrasse, are filled with 19th-century buildings and diplomatic staff, while its southern spread consists of modern apartment blocks and working-class neighbourhoods. Landstrasse s 'Best in Show is Schloss Belvedere, arguably the finest baroque palace in Europe, but the...

Heuringen

Like Beisln beer houses and Kaffeeh user, Heurigen are an integral part of Vienna s cultural and culinary scene. These simple establishments date back to the Middle Ages, but it was Joseph II in 1784 who first officially granted producers the right to sell their wine directly from their own premises. It proved to be one of his more enduring reforms and Heurigen have since become a permanent fixture in the city. Heurigen can normally be identified by a Busch'n green wreath or branch hanging over...