The Drive To The Summit

If you look on a Maui map, almost in the middle of the part that resembles a torso, there's a black wiggly line that looks like this . That's Highway 378, also known as Haleakala Crater Road one of the fastest-ascending roads in the world. This grand corniche has at least 33 switchbacks passes through numerous climate zones goes under, in, and out of clouds takes you past rare silversword plants and endangered Hawaiian geese sailing through the clear, thin air and offers a view that extends for...

Central Maui Kahului

Kahului's best shopping is concentrated in two places. Almost all of the shops listed below are at one of the following centers The once-rough-around-the-edges Maui Mall, 70 E. Kaahumanu Ave. (& 808 877-7559), is the place of everyday shopping, from Long's Drugs to Star Market, to Tasaka Guri Guri (the decades-old purveyor of inimitable icy treats that are neither ice cream nor shave ice, but something in between) and the location for Kahului's largest movie theater, a 12-screen megaplex...

Kanepuu Preserve

This ancient forest on the island's western plateau is so fragile you can visit only once a month, and even then only on a guided hike. Kanepuu, which has 48 species of plants unique to Hawaii, survives under the Nature Conservancy's protective wing. Botanists say the 590-acre forest is the last dry lowland forest in Hawaii the others have all vanished, trashed by axis deer, agriculture, or progress. Among the botanical marvels of this dry forest are the remains of olopua (native olive), lama...

Art Appreciation

The finest art on the Kona Coast hangs in, of all places, a bank. Award-winning First Hawaiian Bank, 74-5593 Palani Rd. (& 808 329-2461), has art lovers making special trips to view Hiroki Morinoue's mural, John Buck's prints, Chiu Leong's ceramic sculpture, Franco Salmoiraghi's photographs, Setsuko Morinoue's abstract fiber wall piece, and other works that were incorporated as part of the bank's design. Artists Yvonne Cheng and Sharon Carter Smith, whose works are included, assembled this...

The Kohala Coast

Shops on the Kohala Coast are concentrated in and around the resorts, listed below. HILTON WAIKOLOA VILLAGE Among the hotel's shops, Sandal Tree carries footwear with style and kick Italian sandals at non-Italian prices, designer pumps, and other footwear to carry you from dockside to dance floor. KINGS' SHOPS These stores are located at the entrance to Waikoloa Resort. A recent find here is Walking in Paradise (& 808 886-2600). The footwear much of it made in France (Mephisto, Arche) can be...

Papohaku Beach

Nearly 3 miles long and 300 feet wide, gold-sand Papohaku Beach is one of the biggest in Hawaii (17-mile-long Polihale Beach on Kauai is the biggest). It's great for walking, beachcombing, picnics, and sunset watching year-round. The big surf and riptides make swimming risky except in summer, when the waters are calmer. Go early in the day, when the tropic sun is less fierce and the winds are calm. The beach is so big that you may never see another soul. Facilities include outdoor showers,...

CoKEY CoKEY What Is That Noise

That loud noise you hear after dark especially on the eastern side of the Big Island, is the cry of the male coqui frog looking for a mate. A native of Puerto Rico, where the frogs are kept in check by snakes, the coqui frog came to Hawaii in some plant material, found no natural enemies, and spread across the Big Island (and Maui). A chorus of several hundred coqui frogs is deafening (up to 163 decibels, or the noise level of a jet engine from 100 feet). In some places, like Akaka Falls, there...

Moments Old Style Hawaiian Entertainment

The plaintive drone of the conch shell pierces the air, calling all to assemble. A sizzling orange sun sinks slowly toward the cobalt waters of the Pacific. In the distance, the majestic mountain, Mauna Kea, reflects the waning sun's light with a fiery red that fades to a hazy-purple and finally to an inky black as a voluptuous full moon dramatically rises over her shoulder. It's Twilight at Kalahuipua'a, a monthly Hawaiian cultural celebration that includes storytelling, singing, and dancing...

Niihau The Forbidden Island

Just 17 miles across the Kaulakahi Channel from Kauai lies the arid island of Niihau, The Forbidden Island. Visitors are not allowed on this privately owned island, which is a working cattle-and-sheep ranch with about 200 residents living in the single town of Puuwai. In 1864, after an unusually wet winter that turned the dry scrubland of the small island (18x6 miles) into green pasture, Eliza Sinclair, a Scottish widow, decided to buy Niihau and move her family here. King Kame-hameha IV agreed...

Hiking Camping

In the past 3 decades, Maui has grown from a rural island to a fast-paced resort destination, but its natural beauty remains largely inviolate there are still many places that can be explored only on foot. Those interested in seeing the backcountry complete with virgin waterfalls, remote wilderness trails, and quiet, meditative settings should head for Haleakala's upcountry or the tropical Hana Coast. Camping on Maui can be extreme (inside a volcano) or benign (by the sea in Hana). It can be...

The Flora Of The Islands

Hawaii is filled with sweet-smelling flowers, lush vegetation, and exotic plant life. AFRICAN TULIP TREES Even from afar, you can see the flaming red flowers on these large trees, which can grow to be more than 50 feet tall. The buds hold water, and Hawaiian children use the flowers as water pistols. ANGEL'S TRUMPETS These small trees can grow up to 20 feet tall, with an abundance of large (up to 10 in. diameter) pendants white or pink flowers that resemble, well, trumpets. The Hawaiians call...

South Kona Expensive

Horizon Guest House jf Finds If you're planning to stay in South Kona, get on the phone right now and book this place this is the Hawaiian hideaway of your dreams. Host Clem Classen spent 2 years researching the elements of a perfect B& B, and the Horizon Guest House is the result. Its 40 acres of pastureland are located at an altitude of 1,100 feet. You can see 25 miles of coastline, from Kealakekua to just about South Point, yet you cannot see another structure or hear any sounds of...

Leeward Oahu The Waianae Coast

Marriott Ihilani Resort & Spa at Ko Olina Resort (HdKfr Kids When the 640-acre Ko Olina Resort community opened, some 17 miles and 25 minutes west of Honolulu Airport (and worlds away from the tourist scene of Waikiki), critics wondered who would want to stay so far from the city. Lots of people, it turns out. Ihilani (Heavenly Splendor) is nestled in a quiet location between the Pacific Ocean and the first of four man-made beach lagoons. Featuring a luxury spa and fitness center, plus...

Health Food Stores

In the university district, Down to Earth, 2525 S. King St., Moiliili (& 808 947-7678), sells organic vegetables and vegetarian bulk foods, with good prices, a strong selection of supplements and herbs, and a vegetarian juice-and-sandwich bar. But my favorite is nearby Kokua Market, 2643 S. King St. (& 808 941-1922), a health-food cooperative and Honolulu's best source for organic vegetables. It also has an excellent variety of cheeses pastas and bulk grains sandwiches, salads, and...

Setting Out On Your Own Vs Using An Outfitter

There are two ways to go Plan all the details before you leave and either rent gear or schlep your stuff 2,500 miles across the Pacific, or go with an outfitter or a guide and let someone else worry about the details. Experienced outdoors enthusiasts may head to coastal campgrounds or even trek to the 13,796-foot-high summit of Mauna Loa on their own. But in Hawaii, it's often preferable to go with a local guide who is familiar with the conditions at both sea level and summit peaks, knows the...

Upcountry Maui

Note You'll find the restaurants in this section on the Upcountry & East Maui map on p. 391. HALIIMAILE (ON THE WAY TO UPCOUNTRY MAUI) Moderate Haliimaile General Store HAWAII REGIONAL AMERICAN For More than a decade, Bev Gannon, one of the original Hawaii Regional Cuisine chefs, has been going strong at her foodie haven in the pineapple fields. You'll dine at tables set on old wood floors under high ceilings (sound ricochets fiercely here), in a peach-colored room emblazoned with works by...

Sportfishing The Hunt For Granders

If you want to catch fish, it doesn't get any better than the Kona Coast, known internationally as the marlin capital of the world. Big-game fish, including gigantic blue marlin and other Pacific billfish, tuna, mahimahi, sailfish, swordfish, ono (also known as wahoo), and giant trevallies (ulua), roam the waters here. When anglers here catch marlin that weigh 1,000 pounds or more, they call them granders there's even a wall of fame on Kailua-Kona's Waterfront Row, honoring 40 anglers who've...

Campgrounds Wilderness Cabins In Kokee

CABINS & TENT CAMPGROUNDS Camping facilities include state campgrounds (one next to Kokee Lodge, and four more primitive backcountry sites), one private tent area, and the Kokee Lodge, which has 12 cabins for rent at very reasonable rates. At 4,000 feet, the nights are cold, particularly in winter, and no open fires are permitted at Kokee. The best deal is the cabins (see Where to Stay, earlier in this chapter, for details). The Kokee Lodge Restaurant is open daily from 9am to 3 30pm for...

Hawaiis Ecosystem Problems

Officials at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park on the Big Island saw a potential problem a few decades ago with people taking a few rocks home with them as souvenirs. To prevent this problem from escalating, the park rangers created a legend that the fiery volcano goddess, Pele, would punish these souvenir-seekers with bad luck. There used to be a display case in the park's visitor center filled with letters from people who had taken rocks from the volcano, relating stories of all the bad luck...

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park

As a result of Hawaii Volcanoes being officially designated a National Park in 1916, a village has popped up at its front door. Volcano Village isn't so much a town as a wide spot in Old Volcano Road, with two general stores, a handful of restaurants, a post office, a coffee shop, a new firehouse, and a winery. Except for Volcano House (see below), which is within the national park, all of the accommodations in this section are in Volcano Village. It gets cool here at night Volcano Village is...

Tips Bridge Etiquette Showing Aloha on Kauais One Lane Bridges

Hawaii's drivers are much more laid-back and courteous than most mainland drivers. Hanalei has a series of one-lane bridges where it is not only proper etiquette to be courteous, but is also the law. When you approach a one-lane bridge, slow down and yield if a vehicle, approaching in the opposite direction, is either on the bridge or just about to enter the bridge. If you are in a long line of vehicles approaching the bridge, don't just join the train crossing the bridge. The local rule of...

Captain Dan McSweeneys Year Round Whale Watching Adventures

Hawaii's most impressive visitors 45-foot humpback whales return to the waters off Kona every winter. Capt. Dan McSweeney, a whale researcher for more than 25 years, works daily with the whales, so he has no problem finding them. Frequently, he drops an underwater microphone into the water so you can listen to their songs, or uses an underwater video camera to show you what's going on. In humpback season roughly December to April Dan makes two 3-hour trips daily. From July 1 to December 20, he...

Rips Finding Your Way Around Oahu Style

Mainlanders sometimes find the directions given by locals a bit confusing. Seldom will you hear the terms east, west, north, and south instead, islanders refer to directions as either makai (ma-kae), meaning toward the sea, or mauka (mow-kah), toward the mountains. In Honolulu, people use Diamond Head as a direction meaning to the east (in the direction of the world-famous crater called Diamond Head), and Ewa as a direction meaning to the west (toward the town called Ewa, on the other side of...

Kona Coffee Craze

Coffeehouses are booming on the Big Island this is, after all, the home of Kona coffee, with dozens of vendors who want to compete for your loyalty and dollars. Most of the farms are concentrated in the North and South Kona districts, where coffee remains a viable industry. Notable among them is the Kona Blue Sky Coffee Company, in Holualoa (& 877 322-1700 or 808 322-1700 www.konablueskycoffee.com), which handles its own beans exclusively. The Christian Twigg-Smith family and staff grow,...

An Expert Shares His Secrets Mauis Best Dives

Ed Robinson, of Ed Robinson's Diving Adventures (see above), knows what makes a great dive. Here are some of his favorites on Maui Hawaiian Reef This area off the Kihei-Wailea Coast is so named because it hosts a good cross-section of Hawaiian topography and marine life. Diving to depths of 85 feet, you'll see everything from lava formations and coral reef to sand and rubble, plus a diverse range of both shallow and deepwa-ter creatures. It's clear why this area was so popular with ancient...

Hawaii Calendar Of Events

Please note that, as with any schedule of upcoming events, the following information is subject to change always confirm the details before you plan your trip around an event. For an exhaustive list of events beyond those mentioned here, check www.calendar.gohawaii. com for a list of events throughout the islands, or http events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world. Banzai Pipeline, North Shore, Oahu. Competition...

Aloha Wear

One of Hawaii's lasting afflictions is the penchant tourists have for wearing loud, matching aloha shirts and muumuu. I applaud such visitors' good intentions (to act local), but no local resident would be caught dead in such a get-up. Muumuu and aloha shirts are wonderful, but the real thing is what island folks wear on Aloha Friday (every Fri), to the Brothers Cazimero Lei Day Concert (every May 1), or to work (where allowed). It's what they wear at home and to special parties where the...

Upcountry Maui Makawao

Besides being a shopper's paradise, Makawao is the home of the island's most prominent arts organization, the Hui No'eau Visual Arts Center, 2841 Baldwin Ave. (& 808 572-6560). Designed in 1917 by C. W. Dickey, one of Hawaii's most prominent architects, the two-story, Mediterranean-style stucco home that houses the center is located on a sprawling 9-acre estate called Kaluanui. Its tree-lined driveway features two of Maui's largest hybrid Cook and Norfolk Island pines. A legacy of Maui's...

Wartime Honolulu

USS Arizona Memorial at Pearl Harbor c& ftjf On December 7, 1941, the USS Arizona, while moored here in Pearl Harbor, was bombed in a Japanese air raid. The 608-foot battleship sank in 9 minutes without firing a shot, taking 1,177 sailors and Marines to their deaths and catapulting the United States into World War II. Nobody who visits the memorial will ever forget it. The deck of the ship lies 6 feet below the surface of the sea. Oil still oozes slowly up from the Arizona's engine room to...

Molokai the Most Hawaiian Isle

Born of volcanic eruptions 1.5 million years ago, Molokai remains a time capsule on the dawn of the 21st century. It has no deluxe resorts, no stoplights, and no buildings taller than a coconut tree. Molokai is the least developed, most Hawaiian of all the islands, making it especially attractive to adventure travelers and peace seekers. Molokai lives up to its reputation as the most Hawaiian place chiefly through its lineage there are more people here of Hawaiian blood than anywhere else. This...

Moderate

Calypso f STEAK SEAFOOD Good food, concrete floors, window tables with flower boxes, seating on the deck with mountain views what's not to like Formerly Zelo's, this beach house, spiced up with South Pacific kitsch, serves a wide variety of coffee drinks and excellent mai tais. The congenial bar area has a tin roof and iron-wood poles, and a one-person canoe hangs overhead. Huge burgers, a variety of pastas, 50 different microbrews and 30 tropical drinks, a wonderful salad in a large...

South Maui Kihei

Kihei is one long strip of strip malls. Most of the shopping here is concentrated in the Azeka Place Shopping Center on South Kihei Road. Across the street, Azeka Place II houses several prominent attractions, including The Coffee Store and a cluster of specialty shops with everything from children's clothes to shoes, sunglasses, and swimwear. Hawaiian Moons Natural Foods Hawaiian Moons is an exceptional health-food store, as well as a mini-supermarket with one of the best selections of Maui...

The Hamakua Coast

Cafe Il Mondo PIZZA ESPRESSO BAR A tiny cafe with a big spirit has taken over the Andrade Building in the heart of Honokaa. Tropical watercolors and local art, the irresistible aromas of garlic sauces and pizzas, and a 1924 koa bar meld gracefully in Sergio and Dena Ramirez's tribute to the Old World. A classical and flamenco guitarist, Sergio occasionally plays solo guitar in his restaurant while contented diners tuck into the stone oven-baked pizzas. Try the Sergio pizza pesto with marinated...

Inexpensive

Dreams Come True on Maui Value This bed-and-breakfast (where you are never just renting a room) was the dream come true for hosts Tom Croly and Denise McK-innon, who after several years of vacationing to Maui, opened this three-unit property in 2002. Centrally located in the Maui Meadows subdivision (just a few minutes' drive to golf courses, tennis courts, white-sand beaches, shopping, and restaurants in Kihei and Wailea), they offer a one-bedroom, oceanview cottage with its own (highspeed)...

Scuba Diving

The Big Island's leeward coast offers some of the best diving in the world the water is calm, warm, and clear. Want to swim with fast-moving game fish Try Ulua Cave at the north end of the Kohala Coast. There are nearly two dozen dive operators on the west side of the Big Island, plus a couple in Hilo. They offer everything from scuba-certification courses to guided boat dives. This is not your mother or father's dive shop, says Jeff Kirschner, of the newly opened BottomTime, 74-5590 Luhia St....

Club Scene

The nightclub scene in Waikiki and Honolulu is just as hot as the sun-kissed beaches during the day. It's more laid-back than in big cities like New York dress is casual (no slippers, tank tops, or athletic wear), and there's no point to even showing up until midnight. The Wave Waikiki, 1877 Kalakaua Ave. (between Ala Wai Blvd. and Ena Rd. & 808 941-0424 www.wavewaikiki.com), is one of Hawaii's top dance clubs, with two levels (and two bars), featuring a huge variety of live music and every...

Honolulu Beyond Waikiki Ala Moana Kakaako Expensive

Aaron's Atop the Ala Moana AMERICAN CONTINENTAL SEAFOOD Take the express elevator to the 36th floor, where the circular dining room reveals the city in its mountain-to-sea splendor. This may be the best view from a Honolulu restaurant that isn't on the beach. Tables line the sweeping windows and intimate banquettes curve around the interior. A private dining room next to the wine cellar serves parties of up to 10. Aaron's offers its famous black-and-blue ahi (seared in Cajun spices) and seafood...

The Best Ways To Immerse Yourself In Hawaiian Culture

Ala Wai Canal and practice the Hawaiian sport of canoe paddling. Find a comfortable spot at Ala Wai Park, next to the canal, and watch this ancient sport come to life. Attending a Hawaiian-Language Church Service (Oahu) Kawaiahao Church (& 808 522-1333) is the Westminster Abbey of Hawaii. The vestibule is lined with portraits of the Hawaiian monarchy, many of whom were crowned in this very building. The coral church is a perfect setting in which to experience an all-Hawaiian service, held...

Driving Around Kauai

You need a car to see and do everything on Kauai. Luckily, driving here is easy. However, there really is only one major road that circles the island, and during rush hour, from about 6 to 9am and 3 to 6pm, this road turns into a giant parking lot. A trip from the airport to Poipu could be as quick as 30 to 45 minutes during non-rush-hour times or as much as 1 2 hours during rush hour. From Lihue Airport, turn right and you'll be on Kapule Highway (Hwy. 51), which eventually merges into Kuhio...

Molokais Best Snorkel Spots

Most Molokai beaches are too dangerous for snorkeling in winter, when big waves and strong currents are generated by storms that sweep down from Alaska. From mid-September to April, stick to Murphy Beach Park (also known as Kumimi Beach Park) on the East End. In summer, roughly May to mid-September, the Pacific Ocean turns into a flat lake, and the whole west coast of Molokai opens up for snorkeling. Mike Holmes, of Molokai Ranch & Fun Hogs Hawaii, says the best spots are as follows...

North Kohala

Ackerman Gallery Crafts and fine arts are housed in two separate galleries a few blocks apart. Artist Gary Ackerman and his wife, Yesan, display gifts, crafts, and the works of award-winning Big Island artists, including Ackerman's own Impressionistic paintings. There are Kelly Dunn's hand-turned Norfolk pine bowls, Jer Houston's heirloom-quality koa-and-ebony desks, and Wilfred Yamazawa's hand-blown-glass perfume bottles and sculptures. Primitive artifacts, Asian antiques, jewelry, and Cal...

Value The King of Condos

One of the easiest ways to find lodging in the Poipu Beach area is to contact Grantham Resorts (which recently sold to Jonathan Parrish), 3176 Poipu Rd., Koloa, HI 96756 (& 800 325-5701 or 808 742-2000 fax 808 742-9093 www.grantham-resorts.com). Grantham handles more than 100 hand-picked rental units for 12 different condo developments, plus dozens of vacation homes, ranging from quaint cottages to elite resort homes. Grantham Resorts has high standards for their rental units and offers...

Tips Affordable Parking in Waikiki

It is possible to find affordable parking in Waikiki if you know where to look. I've divided up the parking in Waikiki into free or metered parking, cheap parking, and carry-a-big-wallet parking. Free or Metered Parking All side streets in Waikiki Ala Wai Boulevard along the Ala Wai Canal, 180 stalls Kuhio Avenue (at Lewers) this 65-stall metered parking lot is the best secret in Waikiki Ohana East, 150 Kaiulani Ave., 238 stalls, 1 per hour, maximum 5 hours King Kalakaua Plaza, 2080 Kalakaua...

Plate Lunch Pointers

If you haven't yet come face to face with the local phenomenon called the plate lunch, Kauai is a good place to start. Like saimin, the plate lunch is more than a gastronomic experience it's a part of the local culture. Lihue is peppered with affordable plate-lunch counters that serve this basic dish two scoops of rice, potato or macaroni salad, and a beef, chicken, fish, or pork entree all on a single plate. Although heavy gravies are usually de rigueur, some of the less traditional purveyors...

The Kona Coast

Kailua-Kona's shopping prospects pour out into the streets in a festival atmosphere of T-shirts, trinkets, and dime-a-dozen souvenirs, with Alii Drive at the center of this activity. But the Coconut Grove Market Place, on Alii Drive, across the street from the seawall, has changed that image and added some great new shops around a sand volleyball court. Next door in the Alii Sunset Plaza, next to the Hard Rock Cafe, beaders can make a beeline for Kona Beads (& 808 331-2161) to peruse a...

Frommers Favorite Oahu Experiences

The best spot for catching the rays on the world-famous beach is in front of the big pink Royal Hawaiian Hotel the beach here is set at the perfect angle for sunning. It's also a great spot for people-watching. Get here early by midday, it's towel-to-towel out there. Exploring Oahu's Rainforests. In the misty sunbeams, colorful birds flit among giant ferns and hanging vines, while towering tropical trees form a thick canopy that shelters all below in cool...

Very Expensive

Hapuna Beach Prince Hotel fitf This hotel enjoys one of the best locations on the Kohala Coast, adjacent to the magnificent white sands of Hapuna Beach. The Hapuna Beach Prince is more formal than other hotels on the Kohala Coast guests, many from Japan, dress up here, some in the latest Tokyo fashions. You won't feel comfortable parading around in your T-shirt and flip-flops. The rooms are comfortable, all attuned to the fabulous ocean view and the sea breezes. Although the rooms are small for...

Waikiki Beach Walk

One of the biggest projects to take place in Waikiki in decades is the total renovation of an 8-acre area (bound by Saratoga Road, Kalakaua Avenue, Lewers Street, and Kalia Road) called the Waikiki Beach Walk. The project, by Outrigger Hotels & Resorts, cost some 460 million. Phase 1, completed in 2007, reconfigured the formerly very congested area (narrow streets, with lots of delivery trucks double-parked, crowded sidewalks, and no vegetation) into an oasis of broad sidewalks, tropical...

Mauis Own Ocean Vodka

If you are looking for a souvenir of your fabulous Maui trip to take home or a unique gift for friends, Maui has its own vodka, called OCEAN Vodka. Produced by Hawaii Sea Spirits, this ultrapremium brand is not only USDA certified to contain organic ingredients, but the water comes from 3,000 feet beneath the ocean off the Kona coast of the Big Island. The deep-sea water is harvested by KOYO USA, producers of MaHaLo Hawaii Deep Sea Water. The desalinated water has become widely popular in...

Limahuli Garden of the National Tropical Botanical Garden Out on

Kauai's far North Shore, beyond Hanalei and the last wooden bridge, there's a mighty cleft in the coastal range where ancestral Hawaiians lived in what can only be called paradise. Carved by a waterfall stream known as Limahuli, the lush valley sits at the foot of steepled cliffs that Hollywood portrayed as Bali Hai in the film classic South Pacific. This small, almost secret garden is eco-tourism at its best. It appeals not just to green thumbs, but to all who love Hawaii's great outdoors....

Kokee State Park

At the end of Highway 550, which leads through Waimea Canyon to its summit, lies a 4,640-acre state park of high-mountain forest wilderness (3,600-4,000 ft. above sea level). The rainforest, bogs, and breathtaking views of the Na Pali coastline and Waimea Canyon are the draw at Kokee. This is the place for hiking among the 45 miles of maintained trails are some of the best hikes in Hawaii. You can download a brochure of all the trails in Kokee from OfKokee.pdf. Official trail maps of all the...

Off The Tourist Trail Keomoku Village

If you're sunburned lobster red, have read all the books you packed, and are starting to get island fever, take a little drive to Keomoku Village, on Lanai's east coast. You'll really be off the tourist trail. All that's in Keomoku, a ghost town since the mid-1950s, is a 1903 clapboard church in disrepair, an overgrown graveyard, an excellent view across the 9-mile Auau Channel to Maui's crowded Kaanapali Beach, and some very empty beaches that are perfect for a picnic or a snorkel. This former...

To Lands End A Leeward Oahu Hike Kaena Point

At the very western tip of Oahu lie the dry, barren lands of Kaena Point State Park, 853 acres of jagged sea cliffs, deep gulches, sand dunes, endangered plant life, and a remote, wild, wind- and surf-battered coastline. Kaena means red-hot or glowing in Hawaiian the name refers to the brilliant sunsets visible from the point. Kaena is steeped in numerous legends. A popular one concerns the demigod Maui Maui had a famous hook that he used to raise islands from the sea. He decided that he wanted...

Lanai a Different Kind of Paradise

There are no direct flights from the mainland. It's almost as if this quiet, gentle oasis known, paradoxically, for both its small-town feel and its celebrity appeal demands that its visitors go to great lengths to get here in order to ensure that they will appreciate it. Lanai pronounced lah-nigh-ee , the nation's biggest defunct pineapple patch, now claims to be one of the world's top tropical destinations. It's a bold claim because so little is here Lanai...

The Shrimp Trucks

Maybe it's a Hawaii thing, but the best, sweetest, juiciest shrimp you are ever going to eat will be from a shrimp truck on Oahu's North Shore. Several trucks line up around the entry to Haleiwa, just off the Kamehameha Hwy, but our two favorites are Giovanni's Original White Shrimp Truck and Holy Smokes Hawaiian Meats and Seafood. Giovanni's amp 808 293-1839 , which usually parks across the street from the Halewai Senior Housing, claims to be the first shrimp truck to serve the delicious...

Studio Visits

The airy Volcano studio showroom of Phan Barker amp 808 985-8636 , an international artist, is a mountain idyll and splendid backdrop for her art, which includes batik paintings on silk, acrylic painting on wood, oil on paper, dye on paper, and mixed-media sculptures. Her work has been exhibited in galleries and museums ranging from the Smithsonian to Saigon. In addition to studio visits by appointment only , she also offers beginner classes in silk painting and drawing. Adding to the vitality...

South Point Lands

At the end of 11 miles of bad road that peters out at Kaulana Bay, in the lee of a jagged, black-lava point, you'll find Land's End the tail end of the United States. From the tip beware of the big waves that lash the shore if you walk out there , the nearest continental landfall is Antarctica, 7,500 miles away. It's a 21'2-mile four-wheel-drive trip and a hike down a cliff from South Point to the anomaly known as Green Sand Beach t see Beaches, earlier in this chapter . Back on the Mamalahoa...