Don't even think of leaving town until you've seen the Lychakivske Cemetery (Lychakivske Kladovyshche; Map pi 15; admission 5uah; S 9am-6pm); it is only a short journey from the centre. This is the Père Lachaise of Eastern Europe, with the same sort of overgrown grounds and Gothic aura as the famous Parisian necropolis. Eagle eyes can try to spot the graves of revered nationalist poet Ivan Franko, Soviet gymnastics legend Viktor Chukarin, early 20th-century opera star Solomiya Krushelnytska, and some 2000 Poles who died fighting Ukrainians and Bolsheviks from 1918 to 1920. Ultimately you needn't recognise a single soul to be moved by the mournful photos of loved ones, ornate tombstones and floral tributes.
A good strategy is to combine a trip to the cemetery and the Museum of Folk Architecture and Life (see right). The cemetery is one stop past the stop for the open-air museum on tram 7.
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