Alexander Nevsky Monastery At the

far end of Nevsky pr, the important Alexander Nevsky Monastery (p90) dates to 1713. Besides the centrepiece church, the grounds contain three cemeteries - the final resting places of some of Russia's most important cultural figures. Nearby is the New Exhibition Hall (p91) showcasing contemporary art.

Eating p171; Shopping p156; Sleeping p209

More infamous than famous, this neighbourhood is named for the once derelict Haymarket, which was the centre of Dostoevskian St Petersburg. Sennaya was home to the poor workers and peasants who were new arrivals in the city, living in rat-infested basements and sleeping 10-to-a-room in shifts.

In honour of the city's tercentennial celebrations in 2003, the square received a massive overhaul, being modernised and sanitised almost beyond recognition. But the chaos around the square has not subsided, and the alleyways and waterways to the north still evoke the moodiness that Fyodor Dostoevsky portrayed so vividly.

The border between reality and fantasy has been smudged irrevocably here: Petersburgers will point out where Dostoevsky lived as quickly as they will the homes of his protagonist Rodyon Raskolnikov and the old woman moneylender. The omnipresent stray cats - as permanent a fixture in St Petersburg courtyards as dim light and foul odours - are the gatekeepers to a neighbourhood whose gloominess and squalor have been preserved well enough to make it instantly recognisable.

Sadovaya ul is the neighbourhood's main road. It cuts through Sennaya pi, which is served by two connected metro stations ((M) Sennaya Pl/Sadovaya). It is flanked by the Fontanka River to the south and Griboedov Canal to the north. The Moyka River forms the neighbourhood's northern boundary. Gorokhovaya ul delineates the eastern border with the Historic Heart, and Voznesensky pr marks the western border with Mariinsky. The neighbourhood extends south all the way to Zagorodny pr.

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