In 1902, Chief Khama III abandoned the Bang-wato capital in Phalatswe, and built Serowe on the ruins of an 11th-century village at the base of Thathaganyana Hill. Serowe was later immortalised by South African writer Bessie Head, who included the village in several of her works, including renowned Serowe -Village of the Rain Wind.

Although the modern town centre is drab and of little interest to travellers, it's worth visiting the Khama III Memorial Museum (g§ 463 0519; admission free but donations welcome; S 8am-5pm Tue-Fri, 10am-4.30pm Sat), which was opened in 1985 and outlines the history of the Khama family. The museum includes the personal effects of Chief Khama III and his descendants as well as various artefacts illustrating Serowe's history. The museum is about 800m from the central shopping area on the road towards Orapa.

Before leaving town, hike up to the top of Thathaganyana Hill where you'll find the Royal Cemetery, which contains the grave of Sir Seretse Khama (see the boxed text, p83) and Khama III; the latter is marked by a bronze duiker (a small antelope), which is the Bang-wato totem. Be advised that police consider this area to be sensitive, so visitors need to

See Makgadikgadi & Nxai Pans National Parks Map (p98)

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