Getting There Away

Two Sprinter minibus taxis depart Maseru at around 11.30am and 4.30pm and Malealea at 6am and 2pm (US 5.50, 2Vi hours, 83km). Otherwise, catch a minibus taxi from near Maseru's Shoprite Sefika Mall to the junction town of Motsekuoa (US 2, two hours) there are frequent connections to Malealea (US 1.50, 30 minutes). If you're driving, head south from Maseru on Main South Rd for 52km to Motsekuoa. Look for the Malealea Lodge sign and the proliferation of minibus taxis. Turn left (east) onto a...

Around Fish River Canyon Canyon Adventures Guest Farm

The friendly Canyon Adventures Guest Farm (Map p376 HI 063-266018 www.resafrica.net fish-river-lodge bush camping per person US 6, dm US 8, r per person ind breakfastfrom US 32 (P) (R)) is situated on a ranch cradled in the confluence of the L wen and Fish River Canyons amid some of the most amazing geology imaginable - don't just take our word for it Highlights include the 4WD trip (US 10) into the canyon to swim in the river pools, a 'garnet crawl', and the bizarre petroglyphs in the rippled...

Top Southern African Albums

Rise Up (Real World), Thomas Mapfumo Double Check (Piranha), Stella Chiweshe Best of Miriam Makeba and the Skylarks (BMG), Miriam Makeba ShakaZulu (Warner), Ladysmith Black Mambazo Urban Zulu (Melt 2000), Busi Mhlongo Indestructible Beat of Soweto Volume One (Earthworks), various artists Vana Va Ndota (Milan), Ghorwane Zambia Roadside (Sharp Wood Productions), various artists A Handful of Namibians (On the Corner), various artists 58 MUSIC IN SOUTHERN AFRICA Musical Styles Celebrating peace,...

Musical Instruments

As with most traditional African instruments, the membranophones, chor-dophones, aerophones and idiophones of Southern Africa (OK, it's drums and string, wind and percussion instruments) tend to be found in rural areas. Local materials and found objects are often used to musical effect. In Namibia and Zimbabwe they tie dry cocoons together and strap them to dancers' ankles and waists in Swaziland and South Africa, ankles rattle with dried fruit. Right across the region, everything from seeds,...

Bontebok National Park

Some 6km south of Swellendam is Bontebok National Park ((0 028-514 2735 adult child US 8 4, camp sites US 10, d cottages US 27 7am-7pm Oct-Apr, to 6pm May-Sep), set aside to ensure the preservation of the endangered bontebok, the unusually marked antelope that once roamed the region in large numbers. The park falls within the coastal fynbos area and is on the banks of the Breede River, where swimming is possible. In the late winter and early spring, the veld (grassland) is covered with flowers....

Slave Lodge

One of the oldest buildings in South Africa, dating from 1660, Slave Lodge (Map pp428-9 021-460 8240 www.museums.org.za slavelodge 49 Adderley St adult child US 1.4070.70 10am-4.30pm Mon-Sat) has a fascinating history. Until 1811 the building was home, if you could call it that, to as many as 1000 slaves, who lived in damp, insanitary, crowded conditions. Up to 20 died each year. The slaves were bought and sold just around the corner on Spin St. The museum today is increasingly devoted to the...

Chobe National Park

Dipito Malerfealenga ' L O HI, -Sa gwd Ji' Linyanti _ j MA MILI SM> 4> Qj NATIONAL PARK 0 Camp Kwando Lianshulu Lodge Lyadura Camp Site Nzalu Camp Site Sishika Camp Site Lizauli Traditional Village the sounds of hippos splashing ease you into a restful sleep. The camp is located 4km off the main road, though the sandy access can prove difficult without a 4WD. Phone the lodge if you need a lift from Divundu. Sudabo Lodge ( 259005 marlon ravemail.com.za camping B& B per person US 7, s d...

MALAWI

The busiest border is at Zobue, on the Tete Corridor route linking Blantyre (Malawi) and Harare (Zimbabwe). Others include crossings at Dedza (85km southwest of Lilongwe), Milange (120km southeast of Blantyre), Entre Lagos (southwest of Cuamba), Mandimba (northwest of Cuamba), Vila Nova da Fron-teira (at Malawi's southern tip), and Cobue and Metangula (both on Lake Niassa). The Zobue crossing has good roads and public transport connections on both sides. There are daily vehicles from Blantyre...

An Alternative To The Bus Overland Trucks

Lots of companies run overland camping tours in trucks converted to carry passengers. Sometimes the trucks finish a tour, then run straight back to base to start the next one. Often, drivers are happy to carry 'transit' passengers on their way back to base. This is not a tour, as such, but can be a comfortable way of transiting between Vic Falls and Jo'burg, or Harare and Nairobi (Kenya), for around US 20 per day, plus food kitty contributions. Those looking for rides should check around truck...

Daily Life

Giving an accurate picture of everyday life in Southern Africa is virtually impossible given the chasm of wealth differentiation between and within the countries of the region. That said, there are some generalisations we can make that represent very real (and in some cases very terrifying) trends afflicting the everyday life of Southern Africa's diverse population. For more country-specific detail, please see this section near the beginning of each country chapter. In Southern Africa, life...

Embassies Consulates in Zimbabwe

The following embassies and high commissions are based in Harare. Angola (I 04-790070 Doncaster House 26 Speke Ave) Australia (Map pp696-7 I 04-253661 www.zlmba bwe.embassy.gov.au 29 Mazowe St) Belgium (I 04-700112 www.dlplomatle.be harare 5th fl, Tanganyika House, cnr Kwame Nkrumah Ave & Third St) Botswana (Map p694 04-794645 7 8 22 Phillips Ave) Canada (Map pp696-7 04-252181 2 3 4 5 www .harare.gc.ca 45 Balnes Ave) Ethiopia ( 04-725822 ethemb ecoweb.co.zw 14 Lanark Rd, Belgravla) Finland (...

Wr

Ae Gams street festival (N) 319 4WDing 103, 123,131,474, see also car travel Aha Hills (B) 117 Gcwihaba Caverns (B) 117 Kgalakgadi Wilderness Trail (B) 122 Kruger NP (SA) 531 Makgadikgadi Pans (B) 99 MoremlGR(B) 114-16 Naukluft 371 Okavango Delta (B) 107 safety 99 Sandwich Harbour (N) 367 Tsodllo Hills (B) 117-18 abseiling 360, iff also rock climbing Cape Town (SA) 426 Semonkong (L) 151 Victoria Falls 619 accommodation 732-4, iff also individual countries in national parks 65 activities...

Sleeping

Garden View Guest Lodge ((HI 018-3813110 cnr North & Havenga Sts s d with shared bathroom from US 20 30 l )) This is Mafikeng's best option in this price bracket pay around US 14 extra and you'll get an en-suite room. All the spick-and-span rooms have a TV, fridge and kitchenette, and there's a very convivial restaurant-bar. Ferns Country Lodge (3 018-381 5971 ferns worldonline.co.za 12 Cook St r US 80 (g) (Hi l )) Ferns is stylish and elegant with ultramodern furnishings and a beautiful...

Mkhaya Game Reserve

This top-notch private reserve (1528 3943 www .blggameparks.org), off the Manzini-Big Bend road near the hamlet of Phuzumoya, was established in 1979 to save the pure Nguni breed of cattle from extinction. Its focus expanded to antelopes, elephants, and white and black rhinos. The reserve's name comes from the mkhaya (or knobthorn) tree - valued not only for its fruit, from which Swazis brew beer, but also for the insect and bird life it supports. You can't visit or stay in the reserve without...

The Northwest Corner

West of Epupa Falls lies the Kaokoveld of travellers' dreams stark, rugged desert peaks, vast landscapes, sparse scrubby vegetation, drought-resistant wildlife and semipermanent settlements of beehive-shaped Himba huts. This region, which is contiguous with the Skeleton Coast Wilderness, has been designated as the Kaokoveld Conservation Area. A large number of 4WD tracks cross the area, but some that appear on maps are now impassable, or may be used only during dry periods (mainly due to...

Music

The Ma-konde in the north are noted for their lupembe (wind instruments), made from animal horn or sometimes from wood or gourds. In the south, Chopi musicians play the timbila, a form of marimba or xylophone, and are famed throughout the continent for their timbila orchestras. Modern music flourishes in the cities, and the live music scene in Maputo is excellent. Marrabenta is Mozambique's national music, with a light, upbeat style and distinctive beat...

Chimfunshi Wildlife Orphanage

On a farm approximately 70km northwest of Chingola is this magnificent chimpanzee sanctuary (I 311293 www.chlmfunshl.org.za admission US 15 S 10am-5pm), home to 84 adult and young chimps that have been confiscated from poachers and traders in neighbouring Congo (Zaire) or other parts of Africa, and apparently the largest of its kind in the world. This is not a natural wildlife experience, but it's still fascinating to observe the chimps as they feed, play and socialise. The sanctuary is not...

Travel Agencies

Airmasters Travel (I 250000 www.zambiatourism .com airmasters 34 Omelo Mumba Rd) This Rhodes Park agency books flights and hires cars and 4WDs. Bimm Travel Agency (I 234372 www.bimm.co.zm Luangwa House, Cairo Rd) Just south of the post office, it's reliable and locally run. It can also arrange car hire. Bush Buzz (I 256992 www.bush-buzz.com Manda Hill Shopping Centre, Great East Rd) At the back of Kilimanjaro, this agency is especially popular for trips to Kafue and Lower Zambezi National...

Sleeping Budget

Chachacha Backpackers 222257 www.chachacha safaris.com 161 Mulombwa CI camping per person US 5, dm US 10, d with shared bathroom US 25 D ID Traditionally popular with young backpackers, when we visited it was being renovated. The courtyard, pool and bar are inviting, and other facilities include a restaurant serving basic meals , laundry service, a communal kitchen and baggage store. Like many hostels in Southern Africa, however, it can be noisy, crowded and scruffy. On the other hand, it's a...

Budget

The closest camping grounds are about 35km north of Maputo at Marracuene and Maca-neta. Maputo has three good backpackers, all with English-speaking staff and heaps of city info. All can also help with airport pickups and transfers to the bus depots for early morning buses north. Fatima's Backpackers i 21-302994,82-414 5730 www.mozambiquebackpackers.com 1317 Avenida Mao Tse Tung camping per person US 5, dm US 6-12, d with shared private bathroom US 24 32 In the upper part of town and Maputo's...

Morija

Morija is a tiny town with a big history, and the site of the first European mission in Lesotho. It's a must for anyone interested in Lesotho's history and culture. Morija Museum amp Archives 0 2236 0308 www.morijafest.com admission US 0.80 S 8am-5pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun , the best museum in Lesotho, holds well-presented Basotho ethnographical exhibits, archives and artefacts. The annual Morija Arts amp Cultural Festival www .morijafest.com is organised by the museum. This popular, annual...

Save The Rhino Trust

The group Save the Rhino Trust SRT WWW.rhino-trust.org.na was formed by a concerned group of individuals in order to cease illegal poaching. Since the trust was formed, it has actively collaborated with both the Namibian government and local communities in order to provide security for the rhino, monitor population size and bring benefit to the locals through conservation and tourism initiatives. Save the Rhino Trust operates in Damaraland, a sparsely populated region that is lacking in...

Inhaca Island

Inhaca, about 40km east of Maputo, is an important marine research centre and a popular weekend getaway. Its offshore coral reefs are among the most southerly in the world, and parts of the island and surrounding waters have been designated a protected reserve. On Inhaca's southwestern edge at the research station is a small museum admission US 3 8.30-11,30am amp 2-3.30pm Mon-Fri,from 9.30am Sat, Sun amp holidays with specimens of local fauna. About 3km northwest of Inhaca is tiny Portuguese...

Sleeping Eating

Verandas camping per person US 2 Camping under simple thatched shelters on the beach at Cabaceira Peque a, several kilometres past Carushka. Bring along everything with you, although more facilities are planned. Carushka I 82-516 0173 ophavela teledata.mz 4- 8-person bungalows US 32764 Rustic, spotless bungalows set between the mangroves and one of the best stretches of beach. A restaurant is planned for now bring food and drink, and staff will prepare it. It's about 2km south of Chocas town,...

Mulanje Traverse

There are many ways to traverse the Mulanje massif. The route we describe briefly here, from Likhubula to Fort Lister, is one of several options, although it seems to be the most popular. It can be done in four days, but there are several variations that can extend this period, and plenty of opportunities for sidetracking, to take in a few peaks and ridges or explore small valleys. Likhubula Forestry Office to Chambe Hut There are two options the Chambe Plateau Path, which is short and steep...

Likoma Missionaries The Cathedral Of St Peter

European involvement on Likoma Island began in 1882 when members of UMCA Universities Mission to Central Africa established a base here. The leaders of the party, Will Johnson and Chauncey Maples, chose the island as protection from attacks from the warlike Ngoni and Yao peoples. Maples became the first bishop of Likoma, but he died only a few months after being appointed, drowning in the lake off Monkey Bay. Despite the setback, missionary work on the island continued. Between 1903 and 1905...

Mokopane Potgietersrus Around

This conservative town they all seem to be up this way , 227km north of Pretoria, was settled early by Voortrekkers, not without resistance from the people already living there. Things are quieter now, and the town is a key base of operations for platinum and diamond mining. The largest citrus farm in the southern hemisphere, the Zedebiela Citrus estate, is nearby. The flrend Dieperink Museum s 015-491 9735 adult student child US 0.40 0.10 0.10 7.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri , at the back of the...

The Bantu Migration

While the Khoisan were developing, in West Africa another group with larger body types and darker skin was emerging the Bantu. By around 3000 to 4000 years ago, they had developed iron-working skills, which enabled them to make tools and weapons. Their skills led to improved farming methods and the ability to make unwanted guests of themselves on their neighbours' lands. Over 2000 years ago the Bantu moved into the Congo Basin and, over the next thousand years, spread across present-day Uganda,...

Shopping

Point and the penguin colony on Halifax Island. Thetwo-to three-hour trips cost US 25 book at the tourist office. CoastwayTours Luderitz 1 202002 lewiscwt iway .na Runs day tours US 80 to the 55m Bogenfels sea arch, Maerchental Valley and the ghost town of Pomona in the Sperrgebiet. This tour also requires at least four participants and must be booked at least one week in advance. Ghost Town Tours 1 204033 kolmans iafrica.com .na Goerke Haus This company operates day trips to Elizabeth Bay US...

Mabuasehube Section

The Mabuasehube section of the park the name means 'Red Earth' , covers 1800 sq km and focuses on the low red dunes around three major pans and several minor ones. Mabuasehube S for day visitors 6.30am-6.30pm Mar-Sep, 5.30am-7.30pm Oct-Feb is best in late winter and early spring when herds of eland and gemsbok migrate from the rest of the park This section has eight rudimentary camp sites, for two groups of up to 12 people each, at the Entrance Gate, Lesholoago Pan, Monamodi, Mpaathutlwa Pan,...

Food Drink Food

Outside Windhoek and Swakopmund, you'll find few gourmet pretences. Most hotels serve three meals, but menus are usually meat-oriented and are rarely very creative. For a treat, try one of the German-style konditorei pastry shops in Windhoek or Swakopmund, or one of the pleasant caf s that exist in most towns. Small hotels normally provide a cooked breakfast with cereal and toast, and big hotels may include a buffet breakfast. In addition to bread, cereals, fruit, yogurt and cold meat, they may...

North Luangwa National Park

This park admission US 20,vehicle US 15 6am-6pm is large, wild and spectacular, but nowhere near as developed or set up for tourism as its southern counterpart. The big draw of North Luangwa is its walking safaris, where you can get up close to the wildlife in a truly remote wilderness. Natangwe Community Camp Site camping US 5 is run by the Mukungule Community and is set in woodland by the northern park entrance gate. The camp sites are very pleasant with spotless hot showers, toilets and...

Info

Grassy, gorgeous Rhodes is a heavenly place the top in all senses of the word place to visit in the Highlands and what locals jokingly refer to as 'the centre of the universe'. Tiffindell 2800m , around 23km up a mountain pass 4WD only from Rhodes, is a purpose-built winter sports resort. Its snow-making facilities mean that a season of 95 days late May to mid-August is possible here. Enjoy an apr s-ski or two in Ice Station 2720 elevation 2720m , South Africa's highest pub. The Ben Macdhui...

Shiwa Ngandu

The vast estate of Shiwa Ng'andu www.shiwangandu ,com tours US 20 9-11amMon-Sat,10-11amSun was established in the 1920s by Stewart Gore-Brown, a paternalistic British aristocrat. At its heart is Shiwa House, a splendid English-style mansion as described in The Africa House by Christina Lamb p669 . Tours take about two hours and include the house, a visit to Sir Stewart's grave and the lake. Kapishya Hot Springs is about 20km west of Shiwa House, but still on the Shiwa Ng'andu estate. The...

Domboshawa Ngomakurira

Domboshawa 'Red Rock' in the Shona language , 16km northeast of Harare, is renowned for its rock paintings. From the small museum at the car park, a well-marked 15-minute walk takes you to the Domboshawa Caves 790044 admission US 4 6am-6pm where the paintings are concentrated. Ngomakurira 790044 admission US 2 6am-6pm offers even more spectacular rock paintings especially photogenic in the afternoon . Both sites make an interesting day or half-day trip. Domboshawa is 30km north of Harare. Drive...

Siavonga

Siavonga is the main town and resort along the Zambian side of Lake Kariba. Just a few kilometres from the massive Kariba Dam, Siavonga is a quiet and low-key village in contrast to Kariba town in Zimbabwe across the lake. The tiny bank at the end of the laneway east of the petrol station changes money, and so do the moneychangers at the turn-off to Siavonga along the road between Lusaka and the border. Tours free, but donations welcome of Kariba Dam are run by the dam authorities. These tours...

Ewanrigg National Park

This small national park admission US 12 6am-6pm , 40km northeast of Harare, consists of 240 hectares of elaborate gardens and woodland. The gardens are characterised by an array of prehistoric-looking aloes, cacti and palm-like cycads, and during winter the slopes glow with the brilliant red and yellow blooms of the succulents and the variegated hues of tropical flowers. The best time for blooms is June to October. But don't go on Saturday or Sunday, because the crowds will easily spoil the...

Train

Metro commuter trains are a handy way to get around, although there are few or no trains after 6pm Monday to Friday and after noon on Saturday. For information contact Cape Metro Rail l 0800 656 463 www.capemetrorail.co.za . Metro trains have 1st- and economy-class carriages only. The difference in price and comfort is negligible, although you'll find the lst-class compartments to be safer on the whole. The most important line for visitors is the Simon's Town line, which runs through...

Sinamatella Camp

Sinamatella 2775 office 7am-6pm is the nicest of the three main camps. It sits atop a 55m mesa with a commanding 50km panorama. By day, you'll see buffaloes and antelopes in the grassy patch below the camp, but it's at night time that Sinamatella really comes alive expect to be haunted by the roaring of lions and the disconcerting howling of hyenas at the foot of the hill, along with a host of unidentified screeches, thumps and bumps. At any time, vicious little honey badgers skitter around the...

The First Chimurenga

The government of Rhodesia was set up 'for, by and of the whites. The Ndebele had effectively been quashed, but trade between the Shona and Europeans continued until it became apparent that the colonists intended to control both African and Rhodesian interests. Spotting a weakness in the BSAC army, the Ndebele came back with a vengeance, gathering forces and single-mindedly attempting to drive the enemy from their land forever. This warlike spirit proved contagious the Shona, traditional...

Cobue

Tiny Cobue is the gateway into Mozambique if you're travelling from Malawi via Likoma Island, 10km offshore. MchengaWede per person US 5 About 5km south of Nkwichi Lodge near Mbueca village. It has camping, basic bungalows and pricey meals around US 7 to US 10 , plus bush walks and canoe trips. It's run by some enterprising staff from Nkwichi Lodge, and bookings can be made through Nkwichi or you can just show up. Nkwichi Lodge www.mandawilderness.org s d with full board US 2407380 This...

City Centre

Spawning Ground Mapp365 204400 spawning iafrica.com.na cnr8th St amp 8th Rd camping per person US 5, dm US 10, d US 25 Hi Owner, manager and all-around great guy, Wayne, knows exactly how to create a great vibe - guests often check in for one night and check out days later. Asgard House Map p365 l 209595 www.gateway -africa.com asgard 72 17th Rd s d US 38 50 This quaint family-run guesthouse features a nice homey lounge, a tropical garden and a frog pond the frogs do their bit by eating the...

Namibia

The three main border crossings are at Ngoma Bridge, Mahango-Mohembo and Mamuno-Buitepos. Note that during the winter months late May to August , Namibia is one hour behind Botswana. There's at least one daily combi between Ghanzi and Mamuno US 3, three hours , on the border, but from there, you'll have to wait for a minibus on to Gobabis or Windhoek. Unfortunately, on the Namibian side they only run when full, so you may have to hole up on the border at the useful East Gate Petrol Station amp...

Molepolole

The tongue-twisting name of this hillside village pronounced mo-lay-po-io-lay is often sensibly shortened to 'Moleps'. The main attraction, the Kgosi Sechele 1 Museum S 592 0917 Gaborone Rd S 9am-noon amp 2-4pm Tue-Frl, 11am-4pm Sat , is housed in the 1902 police station and features traditional housing, paintings, historic photos and David Livingstone memorabilia. It's reputed that Chief Sechele was the only person the missionary Livingstone ever managed to convert to Christianity. This was...

Gcwihaba Caverns Drotskys Cave

In the Kung language, the name of this decorated cavern system in the Gcwihaba Hills means 'Hyena's Hole'. They weren't brought to European attention until the mid-1930s when the Kung showed them to a Ghanzi farmer, Martinus Drotsky, and for years they were known as Drotsky's Cave. The two entrances are 300m apart but the route through the cave is about 800m. There are no lights and no indication of which route to take, so you must carry several powerful torches as well as emergency lights,...

Metangula

Bustling Metangula is the largest Mozambican town along the lakeshore, with little for visitors. However, about 8km north is Chuwanga, an attractive beach and a popular getaway. Chuwanga Beach Hotel ComplexoCetuka Catawala's Chuwanga Beach camping per person US 5, s d bungalows US 15720 is where everyone stays. It has camping, simple bungalows on the sand, meals and a grill. Daily chapas connect Metangula and Lichinga US 5, 2Vi hours , most departing early. Departures in Metangula are from the...

Big Bend

Picturesque Big Bend is a sleepy sugar town on - not surprisingly - a big bend in the Lusutfu River and makes a convenient stop en route to from KwaZulu-Natal in South Africa. It may pay to book accommodation ahead. The Bend Inn Hotel 1363 6855 s d USS26 40 g is on a hill just south of town, with pleasant views across the river from the restaurant and outdoor bar. It is OK value. Lismore Lodge I 363 6613 d from US 28 has small, comfortable, good-value doubles. Next door, LL Restaurant Bar 363...

HIKING

Potato Path Zomba

The southern half of the plateau is ideal for hiking. The network of tracks and paths can be confusing, though, so for more help with orientation, there's a 3-D map of the plateau in the Model Hut. For detailed information on hiking routes on the southern half of the plateau, A Guide to Zomba Plateau US 2 is a single-sheet map with information on the back, including several suggested hiking routes, produced by the Wildlife Society. It's available in Blantyre and at the Ku Chawe Inn p212 . For...

Mt Kgale

The 'sleeping giant', Mt Kgale, overlooks Gaborone, and you can easily hike to the summit for a sweeping view over the capital. Take any Lobatse bus or head out along the new Lobatse road to the car park opposite an obvious satellite dish, just beyond the Kgale Centre Mall . Cross the white concrete stile and follow the track through a shallow gully to the trail of whitewashed stones that lead to the summit. Due to recent robberies, it's wise not to walk alone or carry anything of value.