Car

As you need a residency permit to drive in Shanghai, short-stay tourists are effectively barred from hiring cars in the city. This is not as tragic as it sounds, as Shanghai's roads are lethal for novices. To drive in Shanghai, you will need a Chinese driving licence and a residency permit. Residents can apply for a Chinese license at the Shanghai Transport Bureau ( 6516 8168 1101 North Zhongshan No 1 Rd lil t S 1101- -). You will also need to take along your passport, international driving...

The Bunds Standout Buildings

For a leisurely tour past the Bund's signature architectural chunks, take the Walking Tour (p66). Lording it over the corner of East Nanjing Rd and the Bund, the landmark Peace Hotel at No 20, constructed between 1926 and 1929 (and closed for belated renovations at the time of writing), was built as the Cathay by Victor Sassoon, and originally occupied only the 4th to 7th floors of the Sassoon house. It wasn't for the hoi polloi, with a guest list running to Charlie Chaplin, George Bernard Shaw...

Shanghais Other Art Galleries

The following galleries frequently stage interesting exhibits. See listings magazines for exhibition details. Contrasts ( f ttlf )S Duib chu ng Yll ng Map p62 6323 1989 www.contrastsgallery.com 181 Central Jiangxi Rd) Decorative houseware, furniture, sculptures, paintings and rotating exhibitions of contemporary artists. There's a second gallery (Map p62 6321 9606 5th fl, 133 Central Sichuan Rd) too. Deke Erh Art Center (p83) Fantastic warehouse exhibit space set up by Shanghai's cultural tour...

Transport French Concession

Metro No 1 line shadows Huaihai Rd and Hengshan Rd, stopping at South Huangpi Rd, South Shanxi Rd, Changshu Rd and Hengshan Rd metro stations. Bus Services along Central Huaihai Rd include Bus 2 (runs along Central Huaihai Rd and Hengshan Rd toXujiahui) Bus 911 (Hongqiao to the Old Town) Bus 926 (Shanghai Stadium, Xujiahui and Shanghai Library to East Jinling Rd and the Bund) Bus 42 (from the Bund at Guangdong Rd via Xiangyang Rd to Xujiahui and Shanghai Stadium) Bus 920 (from Xujiahui to...

Pdng

Drinking p187 Eating p162 Shopping p141 Sleeping p198 The opening of art museums and theatres has done little to shift clinging impressions of an artistic and cultural dead zone - it's a bit like Singapore sans attractions - but Pudong is a Chinese place name that many Westerners know before setting foot in Shanghai, while its vertical skyline is one of China's most photographed entities. Charisma - part and parcel of Puxi to the west - has missed the boat across the Huangpu River and panache...

Pudong Walking Tour

1 Oriental Pearl TV Tower Looming above you like a sci-fi control tower a short walk from the Lujiazui metro station is the Oriental Pearl TV Tower (p91), one of Lujiazui's most opinion-dividing edifices. The absorbing Shanghai History Museum (opposite) on the basement level is definitely worth exploration. 2 Riverside Promenade Walk up Fenghe Rd past the Natural Wild Insect Kingdom (above) on your right and turn left onto Riverside Park to reach a section of the Riverside Promenade (opposite)...

Uighur Muslim Food

Most of Shanghai's Muslim restaurants are run by Uighurs - Central Asians from Xinjiang, China's far northwest. A refreshing alternative to the seafood and sweetness of Shanghainese cuisine, Xinjiang dishes consist of lots of mutton (though chicken and fish dishes are available), peppers, potatoes, cumin and delicious nan bread. Shanghai's other main Muslim food is that of the Hui, represented by Lanzhou-style noodles. One good reason to try a Uighur restaurant is to check out the conspicuously...

The Great Jewish Families

The Sassoon family consisted of generations of shrewd businesspeople from Baghdad to Bombay, whose achievements brought them wealth, knighthoods and far-reaching influence. Though it was David Sassoon who initiated cotton trading out of Bombay (nowMumbai) to China, and son Elias Sassoon who had the ingenuity to buy and build his own warehouses in Shanghai, it was Sir Victor Sassoon (1881-1961) who finally amassed the family fortune and enjoyed his wealth during Shanghai's heyday. Victor...

French Concession

Home to the biggest concentration of bars, caf s and teahouses in the whole of Shanghai, the French Concession offers drinkers a choice between elegant bars housed in colonial-era villas, the foreign pubs around the north end of Hengshan Rd, the more dubious delights of the Julu Rd strip, as well as a brand new crop of places springing up in the far west section of the Concession. -tySii'M ShanghaiYanshao 6415 7496 5A Dongping Rd S S Affi pints Y65 S 11am-1.30am Changshu Rd More intimate than...

Old Town Gods Temple Antique Market Map pAntiques

Lao Chenghuangmiao Guwan Shichang Huabao Bldg, Yuyuan Bazaar Stlal EE 8.30am-8.30pm < > South Huangpi Rd The basement of the Huabao Building, slap bang in the centre of the bazaar, houses a collection of established antique shops. These are the kind of antique stalls that accept all major credit cards and there's a real mish-mash of stuff here, from old mah-jong sets and watches to porcelain and pottery, as well as the opium pipes found in every Chinese antique market. The 1 st floor has...

Jw Marriott Tomorrow Square

Mingtian Guangchang JW Wanyi Jiudian 5359 4969, toll-free 10 800-228 9290 www.marriott.com d Y2875 399 West Nanjing Rd lt S& 399-5 - jgi People's Sq Housed in one of Shanghai's most unmistakable and dramatic towers, the JW Marriott boasts marvellously appointed rooms with full amenities, including broadband, and spectacular views. Taking a leaf from the Grand Hyatt's book, the JW Marriott Tomorrow Square Hotel has the highest library in the world. It may only be a reading room for the sole...

International Artists Factory

Map pp80-1 Clothes, Handicrafts No 3, Lane 210,Taikang Rd 3 Despite the grandiose name, this place, which is located in the hip and happening Taikang Road Art Centre (p79) in Lane 210, is really a design and art centre with a handful of fashion boutiques. Shops worth a lazy meander include Jooi Design (Room 201) for cool bags, cushions and Japanese-style asymmetrical shirts (from Y800) and L'Atelier Mandarine (Room 318) for kiddies clothes. ifeiKiS Sheng ZhI Fang 6445 3585 Courtyard 7, Lane...

Cultural Hints Tips

Shanghai, like China before it, is not much of a meritocracy those with guanxi connections) call the shots. Businesspeople invest endless hours in cultivating and massaging (networking) their guanxi, normally through business dinners, gift-giving and banqueting. Intractable proposals can suddenly get the green light when discussed over a plate of aba lone, a bottle of whisky and a carton of cigarettes. It helps to understand 'face'. Face can be loosely described as status, ego or self-respect,...

No Dogs Or Chinese

A notorious sign at Huangpu Park (below), then called the Public Gardens, apocryphally declared 'No dogs or Chinese allowed'. Although this widely promoted notice never actually existed, the general gist of the wording hits the mark. A series of regulations was indeed posted outside the gardens listing ten rules governing use of the park. The first regulation noted that 'The Gardens are forthe use of the Foreign Community', while the fourth ruled that 'Dogs and bicycles are not admitted'....

When Togo

The best seasons to visit Shanghai are spring (March to mid-May), as the city warms up from a clammy, cold winter, and autumn (late September to mid-November), as the heat of summer pleasantly subsides. Although Shanghai has grown warmer in winter over recent years (adult Shanghai residents certainly recall the winter snows that used to carpet the city, but snow is rarer these days), winter (mid-November to February) is generally miserable with most heating coming from air-con (central heating...

Shanghai Vice

Underneath the glitz and glamour of 1930s Shanghai lay a pool of sweat, blood and crushing poverty. In the words of a British resident, Shanghai was violent, disreputable, snobbish, mercenary and corrupt - 'a discredit to all concerned'. 'If God allows Shanghai to endure', said the missionaries,'He will owe Sodom and Gomorrah an apology.' Others agreed 'Shanghai is a city of 48-storey skyscrapers built upon 24 layers of hell.' The city was often a place of horrific cruelty and brutal violence....

Henry Antique Warehouse

fMii MM Hengli Gudian Jiaju is 6401 0831 www.h-antique.com 3rd fl, Bldg 2,359 Hongzhong Rd 3J1 This enormous showroom, with more than 2000 high-quality antique pieces, both large and small, is a good first stop for antique hunters. It's down a lane off Hongzhong Rd in a not-so-obvious location look for the signs. The Traditional Furniture research department of Tongji University is based here.

Old Shanghai Street Names

The naming of streets in Shanghai once depended on which concession they belonged to, French or English, except for the central area of the city where the streets were given the names of Chinese cities and provinces. While the foreign names have disappeared, streets named after Chinese places have been retained those named after other Chinese cities are oriented east-west and those named after provinces north-south. Below are some of Shanghai's former street names The museum's former chairman,...

The Only Way Is Up

The'NoClimbing'signs atthefootoftheJinmaoTower recall the French 'Spiderman' Alain Robert's 90-minute scaling of the tower in May 2007. Dressed as his arachnid hero, the climber was immediately arrested upon descent, having failed to gain authorisation (he had made two previous applications, both refused). Glance up the side of the building and you're spoiled for choice for handholds (Robert apparently joked he could climb it with one arm). A shoe salesman from Anhui province climbed the tower...

Chngning Gubei

Eating p166 Shopping p142 Sleeping p202 Sometimes confused with the Hongqiao airport area, which is a separate neighbourhood, Changning is out in the west of Shanghai and begins where the French Concession ends. Gubei lies to the south of it, with the West Yan'an Rd acting as a rough dividing line between the two areas. Both Changning and Gubei are dominated by uninspiring office blocks, big roads, various commercial enterprises and shopping malls, as well as more apartment complexes, which are...

Medical Services Clinics

Shanghai is credited with the best medical facilities and most advanced medical knowledge in mainland China. The main foreign embassies keep lists of the English-speaking doctors, dentists and hospitals that accept foreigners. Huashan Hospital (Huashan Ylyuan Map pp80-1 62489999, ext 2531 12 Central Wulumugi Rd 4 + rciISSl2 -) Hospital treatment and outpatient consultations are available at the 15th-floorforeigners' clinic (open 8am to 5pm Monday to Friday, with 24-hour emergency treatment)....

Places To Splurge

Jade on 36 (pi62) Unbelievable food in every sense and a stunning setting. Three on the Bund (Map p62) Jean Georges (p151), Whampoa Club (5th fl 6321 3737) and Laris (6th fl 6323 3355) - a cabal of top-name chefs, all in one building. T8 (p154) For celeb-spotting and seduction. Wang Baohe Jiiijia (p150) The place to shell out for a hairy crab banquet. 1001 NIGHTS Map pp80-1 Middle Eastern YY p i'itili Ylqianylye Canting 6473 1178 4 Hengshan Rd fti mezzes Y25-50, mains Y48-80 S 11am-2am < >...

West Nanjing Road

West Nanjing Rd is more upmarket and elitist than the eastern end. It's home to the high-end Western fashion brands and luxury items, as well as Shanghai's most pricy malls. ZHANG'S TEXTILES Map pp98-9 Crafts HuaZhang 6279 8587 Suite 202A, Shanghai Centre, 1376 West Nanjing Rd lS S 1376-5i- S Hiii 202A Sl0am-9.30pm Jing'an Temple The Shanghai Centre address means that this top-end shop caters to flush expats, offering a sublime collection of antique and framed embroidery, dragon robes and shoes...

Hongkou North Shanghai Walking Tour

1 Hongkew Methodist Church This walk begins at the red brick Hongkew Methodist Church, also called Jingling Church JijH3 , on Kunshan Rd B ill Sir . Pop in and take a look at the interior the church seats roughly 2000 worshippers during its early morning Sunday service. 2 Young Allen Court West along Kun shan Rd on the corner with Zhapu Rd M Sir stands Young Allen Court 260 Zhapu Rd , a distinctive brick building constructed in 1923. Walk down the side of the alley for views of its three-storey...

Transport Zhjijio

Distance from Shanghai 30km Direction West Buses from Shanghai Buses one hour, Y80 depart daily from the Shanghai Sightseeing Bus Centre Map p126 every half hour between 7.30am and 3pm. Tickets include admission to the town and its sights last bus back to Shanghai is at 5.30pm. Buses from TongIT Nine daily buses Y15, ninety minutes run between TongIT bus station and Zh ji ji o. It should come as no surprise to anyone that the Yangzi Delta, bounded by the Yangzi River to the north, Lake Tai to...

Donghu Hotel

Siil tlS Donghu Binguan 6415 8158 www.donghuhotel.com 70 Donghu Rd S iM70 f s d from Y760 1135 lt gt South Shanxi Rd Changshu Rd Set backoff Central Huaihai Rd and once the home of famous Shanghai gangster Du Yuesheng boxed text, p28 , the historic Donghu is divided into several areas and buildings. The gorgeous fenced-off green enclave with lawns on the southwest corner of Donghu Rd has the hotel health facilities and long-lease villas, but no guestrooms. To the north is the new white-tile and...

Hngku North Shanghai

Drinking p188 Eating p166 Shopping p142 Sleeping p202 North of Suzhou Creek is this unfashionable part of Shanghai. Originally the American Settlement, until it merged with the British Settlement in 1863 to form the International Settlement, it was a prosperous section of the city. But by the beginning of the 20th Century, it was divided between the slums of Zhabei now Zhabei and Hongkou, which was home to 30,000 Japanese and known as 'Tittle Tokyo'. The area continued to decline in the...

Jianquan Shanzhuang Hotel 91 Moganshan

Call ahead on summer weekends when you may need to reserve a room - there are at least 10 hotels here, so someone will have space. All have restaurants, which are essentially the only eating options in Moganshan. Leidisen Moganshan Bieshii H jfiS T dj 5jlJ g 0572-803 3601 dY1100-1300 This is gangster Du Yuesheng's old villa, and is now owned by the Radisson group. It might be lower down on the mountain, but it has the best views of all. Jianquan Shanzhuang Ij dj j 0572-803 3607 91 Moganshan d...

Mall Rats

The Shanghainese are among the world's confirmed mall rats. They like nothing better than to spend the day wandering through the thankfully air-conditioned walkways of the ever-increasing number of the city's enormous shopping centres in search of that essential new purchase. But the Shanghainese like to eat almost as much as they like to shop, which creates a dilemma for them, as no serious shopper wants to leave the mall to go in search of sustenance. Until recently, diehard shoppers were...

Because You Deserve It

Neighbourhood massage parlours recognisable by the pair of feet pasted on the door and reclining armchairs inside offer a herbal medicine soak for your feet, an hour-long foot massage and a chance to catch up on all the local gossip. And all this from around Y50 an hour. Two things to remember Chinese massage is relaxing, but not necessarily gentle, and if the masseuse is only wearing a negligee, it's not going to be a foot massage. Alternatively, your masseuse might be wearing darkglasses- in...

Chinese Printed Blue Nankeen Exhibition Hall Map ppFabric

HSsEPie-ftftlS ZhongguoLanYinhuabuGuan 5403 7947 No 24, Lane 637, Changle Rd iS Slr637 24 S 9am-5pm Changshu Rd Follow the blue signs through a maze of courtyards until you see bolts of blue cloth drying in the yard. Originally produced in Jiangsu, Zhejiang and Guizhou provinces, this blue-and-white cotton fabric sometimes also called blue calico is similar to batik, and is coloured using a starch-resist method and indigo dye bath. This museum and shop, started by Japanese artist Kubo Mase,...