Hell Really Exists
There's visiting national parks and then there's experiencing national parks - and Hell's Gate (0 050-2020284 adult child US 15 5) is an experience indeed. The park is truly unique, as it allows you to walk or cycle unguided across its breadth. Knowledge that cheetahs, lions and leopards may be lurking only adds to the excitement of it all The scenery is dramatic, with rich ochre soils and savanna grasses squeezed between looming cliffs of rusty columnar basalt. Marking the eastern entrance to Hell's Gate Gorge is Fischer's Tower, a 25m-high volcanic column named after Gustav Fischer, a German explorer who reached here in 1882 only to have his party slaughtered by local Maasai. The tower is one of the park's many popular rock-climbing sites. HELL'S GATE NATIONAL PARK r- Karia II JJ J. q -Geothermal gp r -Yffi y Station' Sy -A Hell' Lookout Cj-1 J Cc ' Devil's , r Kitchen gate r-iA (dosed) ' i & o fU If you want to explore further, the Buffalo Circuit offers fine views over Hell's Gate...
The most famous cutting is the 110m Hell-fire Pass (also known as Konyu Cutting), which is 300m from the museum entrance. The ominous nickname was earned during the 'speedo' period of construction when crews worked around the clock in 16- to 18-hour shifts for 12 weeks. At night the eerie glow of torch light casting shadows of the workers' emaciated frames were reminiscent of the fires of hell. During this period the original crew of400 Australian PO Ws was later augmented with 600 additional Australian and British prisoners. By the time the cuttings were finished, 70 of the POW crew had died and were buried in the nearby Konyu Cemetery. The museum and walking trail is 80km northwest of Kanchanaburi on Hwy 323. It is easily accessed by Sangkhlaburi-Kanchanaburi bus (45B, l' 2 hours, frequent departures). Tell the driver that your destination is chawng khao khdat (Hellfire Pass). The last bus back to Kanchanaburi passes here around 4pm.
Mail leaves the islands regularly and gets delivered in a reasonable amount of time. For post cards, the local post office is just fine - you can even post a postcard from Hell, with a Hell postmark. Air Parcel Post may be the most reasonable, but not fastest, way to send things. Express Mail Service (EMS) provides a fast (though not overnight), efficient, reliable and fully documented service to over 140 countries.
With the Maine explosion, Hearst finally had his damning scoop. 'Remember the Maine and to hell with Spain' screamed the headlines of the Joumo overthe ensuing few weeks, inventing a new catchphrase and stifling any serious political dialogue about what really happened. Indeed, before any form of independent inquiry could be undertaken, US public opinion had unceremoniously declared the Spanish guilty of sabotage and President McKinley found himself sliding into a war that he was powerless to stop.
The dramatic Devil's Bridge ( 890233 adult child 2.50 1.30 i 9.45am -5pm Apr-Oct, other times access via Number 2 turnstile) spans the Rheidol Valley on the lush western slopes of the 2400ft Plynli-mon Fawr (Pumlumon), source of the Rivers The Vale of Rheidol Railway (see p213) is the most delightful way to reach Devil's Bridge. An alternative is the new Rheidol Cycle Trail, a 22-mile, partly off-road trail that shadows and occasionally crisscrosses the A4120 through the Rheidol Valley.
Indulge your fantasies with Nags Head Hammocks, s 252441-6115, 800-344-6433, fax 480-0415, e-mail sales nagshead.com, www.nagshead.com. The main store is at 1801 Croatan Highway, 158 Bypass, Kill Devil Hills, but there are other locations at TimBuck II in Corolla 1212 Duck Road in Duck at Highway 158 in Point Harbor and at Avon on Hatteras Island. Owners Chuck and Susan Sineath are proud that the original, high-quality rope hammocks are made here by their own craftsmen. While you are probably most familiar with the standard rope hammock, available in single, double or extra-wide sizes, these are not the only products they make. Look for hammock chairs, slingshot swings, rope furniture (including folding single or double rockers), captain's chairs, double recliners, folding rope foot stools, and even a toy chest hammock. The price within each range depends largely on color, as some hues are more costly to produce. Accessories, too, are intriguing. Who could, for instance, buy a...
The aptly named Devil's Mouth is a blow-hole gouged out of the rocks that roars when it spouts water, sometimes up to 150 feet high. It's situated on a cliff overlooking Cape Samana, the eastern tip of the peninsula. It's a good place to kick back and, in winter at least, watch migrating whales go by.
Not far from Fagrifoss is a very deep hole in a small slump crater, about 200m east of the Laki road. It doesn't seem to have a particular name, but locals will jokingly tell you it's the back door to hell (Hekla is the front). The hidden entrance is just 35cm across, so it's unlikely you'll find it without a guide.
Despite the off-putting moniker (named for Admiral de Hell, a French governor of R union), Nosy Be's main town is anything but hellish. Rather, it's an upbeat, if rather dishevelled, place where frangipani and bougainvillea frame crumbling ruins of old colonial buildings, sidewalk caf s bustle with backpack-touting tourists sipping strong espresso, and expats gather at everyone's favourite bar, Nandipo, for a gossip and wood-oven pizza. After a long stay in the bush, or at one of Nosy Be's isolated beach resorts, Hell-Ville is a good place to catch up on world affairs and get a plate of pasta. If you are planning on catching the speedboat to the mainland, it may be worth spending the night here too. Not only are hotels cheaper than elsewhere in Nosy Be, you'll be just minutes away from the port where boats depart (and it's easy to find combo tickets to Diego Suarez from touts around town just don't pay until the morning when you get a ticket at the port). For information about getting...
The town of Hell-Bourg emerges like a hamlet in a fairy tale after 9km of tight bends from Salazie. You can't but be dazzled by the fabulous backdrop - the majestic mountain walls that encase Hell-Bourg like a grandiose amphitheatre. No prize for guessing that this rugged terrain offers fantastic hiking opportunities. It offers plenty to more sedentary types as well. Culture aficionados will get their fill in this quintessential R unionnais town with its enchanting centre, where old Creole mansions line the streets. Hell-Bourg takes its curious name from the former governor Amiral de Hell the town itself is anything but It served as a thermal resort until a landslide blocked the spring in 1948. Visitors can still see the ruins of the old baths.
Between 30th and 59th streets west of Eighth Avenue, Hell's Kitchen today mostly centers on the engaging slash of restaurants, bars, and ethnic delis of Ninth Avenue. Once one of New York's most violent and lurid neighborhoods, it was first populated by Irish immigrants, who were soon joined by Greeks, Puerto Ricans, and blacks.The rough-and-tumble neighborhood was popularized in the 1957 musical West Side Story. Recently, it has attracted a new residential population, with renovation and apartment construction happening at break-neck speed and gentrification threatening to change the neighborhood forever.
The impressive crater known as Sjalfskapar Viti (Homemade Hell), near the Krafla car park, isn't like other craters in the area. When teams were drilling the Krafla boreholes, one was so powerful that when they hit the steam chamber it exploded. A huge crater was created and bits of the drilling rig were discovered up to 3km away. Miraculously, no-one was killed. Had the project been successful, this one borehole would have been sufficient to power the entire Krafla power station. Now, the same work is done by 17 boreholes.
A modest coastal sea arch, Devil's Bridge is at Indian Town Point, an area thought to be the site of an early Arawak settlement. To get here, turn east onto the paved road a third of a mile before the Long Bay Hotel turn-off. After a mile the road ends at a roundabout from there the arch is a minute's walk to the east. Dramatic waves add excitement as they sometimes break over the rocks and erupt through blowholes.
The pastor Jon Steingrimsson, convinced it was due to the wickedness of his flock, gathered the terrified parishioners into the church. There he delivered a passionate hellfire and brimstone sermon while the appropriate special effects steamed and smoked outside. By the time the oratory ended, the flow had stopped at a rock promontory - now called Eldmessutangi (Fire Sermon Point) - just short of the town. The grateful residents credited their good reverend with some particularly effective string-pulling on their behalf. Religious connections are particularly strong in this area. The prominent rock pillar Systrastapi (Sisters' Pillar), near the line of cliffs west of town, marks the spot where two nuns were reputedly executed and buried for sleeping with the devil and such other no-nos.
As he sat looking out across his barren fields, wondering what had happened to his crops, a plan formed in his head. He decided to lie in wait to see if the thief would come back. Night after night Ati slept beside his plantation, waiting for the culprit to appear, but there was no sign of the thief. Then one night, when the moon was high in the sky and Ati had just about given up hope of ever catching the thief, he was awoken by splashing sounds coming from the pond near his taro patch. Crawling forward he saw several pale figures emerging from the water. They were momoke, the legendary creatures of the underworld, almost identical to normal people apart from their bone-white skin. Ati watched angrily as they helped themselves to his remaining crops, and then disappeared back into the pool as dawn broke across the fields. On the night of the next full moon, Ati lay in wait for the momoke to return, and trapped one of them using a fishing net. Looking closely at his net the next...
Through Piazza Antelminelli and past the fountain Nottolini built to crown the completion of the aqueduct (1832-35), a road leads to Palazzo Bernardini. It is here that you can spy the so-called devil's stone, a warped stone that, despite numerous replacements and even the use of metal bars, hampered the building's 18th-century construction. Although the stone's propensity to distort in this particular spot (to the right of the entrance) has never been explained, locals believe it is because a religious image was removed that same location.
The town from which the Cirque de Salazie takes its name lies at the eastern entrance to the Cirque. There's not much to detain you here, and most visitors press on to Hell-Bourg. You'll have to change buses here if you're heading further up into the Cirque. If everything is full in Hell-Bourg, the H tel Salazien ( 0262 47 57 05 fax 0262 47 51 65 134 Rue Pompidou s d 35 45), on the main drag, is a good plan B, though atmosphere is not its strong suit. If you're a light sleeper, ask for a room at the back The attached restaurant is nothing to write home about instead head to Le P'tit Bambou ( 02624751 51 mains 10-12 S lunchdailyexcept Wed), further up, which serves hearty fare with a zesty Chinese twist in rustic surrounds.
The Bulgarian calendar features numerous festivals throughout the year, particularly in the rural areas, but the following are worth making a note of The Kukeri Festival is visually arresting villagers don terrifying outfits to ward of the demons that stalk the earth. It is celebrated in the southwest on New Year's Eve, January 1 or 14 (and sometimes in Mar see box Scary Monsters Freddy Eat Your Heart Out on p. 88). Velikden (Easter) is the most important holiday in the Orthodox Church, and services with huge attendances are deeply moving the main service takes place on Saturday night when priests emerge from behind the iconostasis with blazing candelabra and the congregation follows as they perambulate the church three times in celebration of the resurrection. The hugely popular but overrated Festival of Roses is celebrated in early June in the town of Kazanlak. The Sofia Music Weeks usually take place late May to early June and are a must for classical music lovers, as is the...
With its gargoyles, demons, and buttresses painting a somewhat menacing picture, this imposing stone structure houses a Dominican nunnery. Visitors are welcome inside to see the magnificent Baroque altar. Padre Francisco Billini, a 17th-century priest noted for his work with the poor, is interred in the marble sepulcher at the front of the church. (Open Mon-Sat, 9 am-6 pm.)
Nirvana for dropouts, flower children, and New Age travelers since the late 1960s, Goa's hippie invasion peaked in the '70s, when Anjuna Beach became a rocking venue for party demons and naturalists who would sell their last piece of clothing at the local flea market for just enough cash to buy more dope and extend their stay. For many, Goa still conjures up images of all-night parties and tripping hippies sauntering along sun-soaked beaches. But there is more to this tiny western state than sea and sand, hippies and hedonists. A rich amalgam of Portuguese and Indian influences, its history alone has ensured that its persona is unlike any other in India. Arriving in 1498, the Portuguese stayed for almost 500 years (kicked out, finally, in 1961 the last Europeans to withdraw from the subcontinent), leaving an indelible impression on the local population and landscape. Goans still take a siesta every afternoon many are Catholic, and you'll meet Portuguese-speaking Mirandas, D'Souzas,...
While the majority of Bulgarians are traditional Orthodox, plenty still ascribe to more pagan animistic rituals, and nowhere is this more evident than during the annual kukeri and survakari rites, designed to repel evil spirits and promote fertility, and still practiced in certain villages and cities in the southwest with great fervor on New Year (or Jan 14). During a 30-day period, known as the dirty days or Mrasni Dni, when the days that denote the new and old year mingle, it is believed that the gates to both heaven and hell are temporarily left open, and demons carrying illness and evil walk the earth. A group of selected villagers or townsfolk, each playing specific roles, don terrifying masks and girdles sagging with huge bells. Armed with wooden guns, swords, or axes, they stalk the streets, entering homes to sound off the demons with loud clanging bells and smoke, and killing the evil harbingers by sweeping through rooms with their swords. During the fertility rites the kukeri...
Szeged (pronounced Seh-ged), the proud capital of the Great Plain, is a hot and dusty but hospitable town. World famous for its paprika and salami (Pick Szalami), Szeged is also home to one of Hungary's major universities, named after Attila Jozsef, the brilliant but disturbed interwar poet who rose to artistic heights from a childhood of desperate poverty. As a young man, he was expelled from the university that would later change its name to honor him. Driven by private demons, Hungary's great proletarian poet committed suicide at the age of 32 by hurling himself under a train at Bal-atonszarszo, by Lake Balaton. Jozsef failed to achieve wide recognition during his
The Taiping Rebellion started in the mind of Hong Xiuquan (born Hong Huoxiu, 1814-1864), a teacher and a farmer's son from Guangdong Province. After Hong failed his civil-service exams for the third time, he had a feverish dream of a bearded man and a younger man, whom he later decided were God the Father and Jesus. Hong also kept seeing part of his own name, Huo in the Christian tract, which he interpreted as another divine calling. Convinced that he was God's son and Jesus's younger brother, and his mission from God was to slash the demons the twin demons of the Manchu government and the traditional Chinese folk religion Hong formulated his own ideology, a mix of Christian ideals and Confucian utopianism. He soon amassed a large anti-Manchu, anti-establishment following in the south and in 1851 led a group of 20,000 followers to establish the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom, with Hong himself as king. Using their army and any number of ragtag peasant militias they could muster along the...
KANAKA DURGA TEMPLE This temple (Indrakila Hill S 5am-9pm) is dedicated to Kanaka Durga, the goddess and protector of the city. Legend has it that she eradicated powerful demons from the area. She now receives continual gratitude from her followers, who credit her with Vijayawada's prosperity. Avoid mornings and bring lots of change for blessings.
The Hoysalas were a race of warriors who found time to allow their art to flourish despite regular military campaigns. What remains of this once-powerful dynasty are beautiful temples, usually commissioned to commemorate their victories or covenants made with their gods. Situated at the edge of the Western Ghats, the existing temples of the once-powerful cities of Belur and Halebid are often referred to as the Jewel Boxes of Hoysala architecture, and are comparable with the religious monuments of Khajuraho (in Madhya Pradesh) and Konark (in Orissa). The artists who created these compact, assiduously sculpted temples demonstrated enormous regard for the rules of proportion, and went to extreme lengths to ensure absolute spatial precision. Exterior temple walls are invariably covered in detailed sculpted decoration, while inside you will discover hand-lathe-turned filigreed pillars and figures with moveable jewelry, also carved from stone. The gods paraded at these temples are over 8...
In 1932 he became curator of the museum in Denpasar, and with Rudolf Bonnet and Cokorda Gede Agung Sukawati, their Balinese patron, he founded the Pita Maha artists' cooperative in 1936. He co-authored Dance & Drama in Bali, published in 1938, and adapted a centuries old chant into the Kecak dance for the German film, The Island of Demons. A woman of many aliases, K'tut Tantri breezed in from Hollywood in 1932 inspired by the film Bali, the Last Paradise, an early example of soft-core ethnographic 'documentaries'. She dyed her red hair black (only demons have red hair) and was befriended by the prince of the Bangli kingdom. She opened a hotel first in collaboration with and then in competition with the Kokes. gestures, refined divine and heroic characters, and vulgar, crude evil ones. The paintings tell a story in a series of panels, rather like a comic strip, and often depict scenes from the Ramayana and Mahabharata. Other themes are the Kakawins poems, and indigenous Balinese...
During a 30-day period over New Year, known as Mrasni Dni (Dirty Days), it is said that the gates to heaven and hell are left open, and demons walks the earth. To counter this, villagers don terrifying masks and girdles sagging with huge bells and, armed with wooden weapons, stalk the streets to sound them off. You can see the best examples of the frightening kukeri costumes, as well as plenty of photographs, in Sofia's Ethnographic Museum, or plan to visit during an even-numbered year on the last weekend in January when the largest Festival of the Kukeri is held in Pernik, and some 3,500 revelers participate in this ancient ritual. See p. 63.
Long Island is the angler's ultimate destination. The bonefishing here is as good as it gets. Great schools of the silver fish flit this way and that over the flats where the water rarely is deeper than a couple of feet. You can spend hours casting into the schools and, when you hook one of the little demons, you're in for the fight of your life.
The sister to the chief was told she would never have children. Soon thereafter, however, she found herself pregnant. The fetus grew at an unnatural speed and was born after mere weeks. When he arrived, the child was covered with hair and had sharp teeth. His evil nature was proven when he was found killing animals for pleasure, not out of necessity. But, because he was the chief's nephew, nothing could be done. Finally, the chief himself got worried and fought the demon-child. The chief cut the demon with his knife, but no blood came out. Determined to rid his village of the evil, the chief began to wrestle with the demon. All night they wrestled. At the end of the battle, the chief managed to throw the demon into the fire, but the demon wasn't dead yet. From the fire came a voice declaring that the demon would drink the chief's blood for a thousand years. Ashes rose from the fire, and each ash became a mosquito. At night, by your campfire, you may wonder how many of the thousand...
Melbourne's thrivingbar scene is one of its biggest attractions. Since the days of early settlement, when teetotal founder John Fawkner set up a public house on the banks of the Yarra, Melbourne has always used the demon drink as a social lubricant. For many years this revolved around pubs, but when liquor licensing laws were liberalised in the late 1980s, bars began to spring up anywhere that rents were cheap and space was atmospheric. Although there's currendy much talk about the perils of binge drinking and alcohol-fuelled violence in the city, for the most part Melbournians have a sophisticated, if dedicated, relationship with the bot e. . t . . . . _. , mercial (hello Kylie ) to queer and alterna-
The best way to visit the eastern side of the Chokhor valley is to walk a couple of hundred metres north from Kurjey Lhakhang then follow a path east to cross a footbridge, then uphill to a trail on the opposite side. Downstream of the bridge you can see a natural formation named Do Zam, said to be the remains of a stone bridge that was built by a goddess who was trying to meet Guru Rinpoche, but the bridge was destroyed by a demon.
Cairns' cultural extravaganza, the indigenous-owned Tjapukai(offMapp336 40429900 www.tjapukal .com.au Kamerunga Rd, Smithfield adult child 31 15.50, incl transfers from Cairns & Northern Beaches 50 25 S 9am-5 pm) presents a variety of inspirational and educational performances combining interesting aspects of Aboriginal culture with show biz. It includes the Creation Theatre, which tells the story of creation using giant holograms and actors, a Dance Theatre and a gallery, as well as boomerang- and spear-throwing demon-
Standing in a large courtyard, the three-storey temple dates from 1673, although an earlier temple may have existed on the site since 1408. The temple's four carved doorways are each guarded by lion figures and at ground level on the four corners of the temple plinth are reliefs of a curious yeti-like demon known as a kyah. A diverse collection of animals (including peacocks, horses, bulls, lions, elephants and a snake) tops the freestanding pillars facing the northern side of the temple. The roof is supported by struts, each showing Avalokiteshvara standing above figures being tortured in hell.
The important temple of Pura Dalem Pene-taran Ped is near the beach at Ped, a few kilometres east of Toyapakeh. It houses a shrine for the demon Jero Gede Macaling (see Pe-nida's Demon, pl53). The temple structure is sprawling and you will see many people making offerings for safe sea voyages from Nusa Penida you may wish to join them.
Phulech (Sep Oct Kalpa, p296 Sangla, p294) Villagers across Kinnaur fill temple courtyards with flowers of intoxicating fragrance and oracles carry out sacrifices and make predictions for the coming year. Dussehra or Durga Puja (Oct Kullu, p303 Sarahan, p293) Kullu celebrates the defeat of the demon Ravana with a huge fair and parade, led by the chariot of Raghunath (Rama). Sarahan celebrates Durga's victory over the demon Mahishasura with animal sacrifices in honour of Bhimakali.
This 20-minute after-dark production combines fiber optics, holographic images, clouds of liquid nitrogen, old-fashioned twinkling lights, and a soundtrack featuring classic Disney tunes. Mickey, dressed in an amber and purple grand magician's cape, makes an appearance in a confetti of light. You'll also see the SpectroMen atop the title float, and Chernabog, Fantasia's monstrous demon, who unfolds his 38-foot wingspan. It takes the electrical equivalent of seven lightning bolts (enough to power a fleet of 2,000 over-the-road trucks) to bring the show to life.
Driving and parking The best advice on driving in Amsterdam is this Don't drive in Amsterdam. Traffic is horrendous, the normally polite Dutch are demon drivers, and parking is nightmarish. If your car is parked illegally, it will be clamped or towed almost immediately by the dreaded Parkeerbeheer police, and you will need large amounts of cash to get it back (from about 68 -154 78- 177 call 020 553-0333 around the clock to recover
The Golden Gate opens to the inner courtyards of the palace, but you cannot proceed further than the ornate entrance to colourful Taleju Chowk (1553). Non-Hindus can check out the nearby Naga Pokhari, a 17th-century royal water tank encircled by a writhing stone cobra (naga). The nagas rise up on scaled pillars and water pours from a goat's head that protrudes from the mouth of a makara (crocodile demon). The tank was traditionally used for the daily ritual bath of the goddess Taleju.
About 30km north of Dwarka is a ferry service (Rs 5, 25 minutes, sunrise to sunset) crossing the 3km from Okha to the island of Bet, where Vishnu is said to have slain a demon. There are modern Krishna temples on the island, and a deserted beach on the northern coast. An STC bus goes to Okha (Rs 15, every 30 minutes) from Dwarka.
This atmospheric pub set up shop in a church mission's house of assembly. What else can you expect when the demon drink wins out against the forces of temperance Booze, yes, but also interesting food, live music, a big beer garden with space heaters and a cruisy crowd who often bring their kids along in daylight hours.
Janmastami (Aug Sep Mathura, p410) You can barely move here during Krishna's birthday, when the Dwarkad-heesh temple is swathed in decorations and musical dramas about Krishna are performed. Ram Lila (Sep Oct Varanasi, p425) Every year since the early 1800s, the Ram Lila, a lengthy version of the Ramayama, has been performed at Ramnagar in Varanasi. The epic saga of Rama's marriage to Sita and his battle against the demon king, Ravana, is performed mainly by Brahmin youths aided by masks, music, dancing and giant papier-mache figures.
The central figure in the goemba is Guru Rinpoche. To the right is Chenresig in his 1000-armed aspect. To the far right is an image of the snake demon Gangan Yonga Choephel, who holds a golden mirror in his right hand. The murals on the walls of the goemba are believed to date from the 15 th century. Behind the goemba is a fantastical large black rock. It is said that Guru Rinpoche was meditating in a small cave near the bottom of the rock when a demon in the shape of a cobra suddenly appeared. The Guru, alarmed, stood up quickly (as you would), most likely swore and left the impression of his pointed hat at the top of the cave. The Guru then made an agreement with the demon to stay away until the end of his meditation. The contract was sealed with thumb prints, which are still visible on the rock. The serpent also left a print, with his hood at the top of the rock. gain merit by walking around the chorten. It is celebrated on two separate dates, 15 days apart. The first day is for...
Hell-Ville is relatively compact, with most restaurants and shops clustered in the centre square. Hotels are spread along the main road, Blvd de l'Ind pendance. The port is at the extreme southeast corner of town. All the major banks, including Bank of Africa (BOA), BFV-SG and BNI-CL, have branches in Hell-Ville equipped with modern ATMs accepting international cards. The banks also change money and travellers cheques and do credit-card advances - note they all shut down between noon and 3pm every day.
After the critics stopped assailing Rodin's art, they realized he had been the greatest sculptor since Michelangelo, and the studio where Rodin worked from 1908 until his death in 1917 was opened as a museum to house some of the artist's greatest works. In the rose gardens you find The Thinker, The Gate of Hell, The Burghers of Calais, and Balzac. Inside are many famed sculptures The Kiss, The Three Shades, The Hand of God, Iris along with some of Rodin's drawings and works by his friends and contemporaries. You can see the whole place in 45 minutes.
Air Madagascar ( 86 613 60 Rte de l'Ouest, Hell-Ville) flights link Nosy Be's Fasrene Airport with Antananarivo every day (Ar304,600), often via Mahajanga (Ar288,000) or Diego Suarez (Arl32,000). Flights also go to Sambava and Dzaoudzi in Mayotte. There are also international flights to Milan and R union. Air Austral ( g 86612 40) and Air Mauritius ( g 86 612 40), both in Hell-Ville, can book regular flights to Mayotte, R union and Mauritius. Cargo boats still travel between Nosy Be and Mahajanga, and less frequendy between Nosy Be and Diego Suarez. The trips take anywhere from 24 to 72 hours and is very uncomfortable. Check the blackboard outside the Auximad office at the port in Hell-Ville as departures are irregular. Most of the private yachts passing through Nosy Be are bound for Mayotte (the passage costs about 300). The best place to ask is at Nandipo bar in Hell-Ville. The yachting season runs between August and November.
Bumpass Hell, a 1.5-mile walk off the Park Road in the southern part of the park, is the largest geothermal site in the park 16 acres of bubbling mud pots cloaked in a stench of rotten egg-smelling sulfur. The colorful name comes from an early Lassen area homesteader guide, K. V. Bumpass, who lost a Boiling Springs Lake and Devils
Following the oil booms of the 1970s, the Mexican economy went into a tailspin in the '80s from which it did not recover until drastic measures to introduce private enterprise and free trade were taken under President Carlos Salinas de Gortari (1988-94). By the time the North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA) took effect on January 1, 1994, things seemed to have stabilized and started to move forward. Then all hell broke loose.
Bus It's possible to take one of the daily buses (R200, nine hours) from St Petersburg's Avtovokzal No 2 but it's a hell of a journey. Train The only enjoyable way to travel to Petrozavodsk is to take the overnight train (R950, eight hours, daily) from Ladoga Station (Ladozhsky vok-zal), which gets you into Petrozavodsk in the early morning. Trains running between St Petersburg and Murmansk also stop in Petrozavodsk.
The 29-mile tour through this rugged yet captivating region should take no more than a couple of hours, though it's a good idea to factor in a few more hours to hike up Lassen Peak or explore the Devastated Area and Bumpass Hell. If there's time, make an effort to stop at Sulphur Works near Mineral (about 2 miles from the southwest entrance), an acrid, noisy cauldron of steam vents that let off a mighty pungent odor.
While Habana can't be called a queer destination (yet), it's more tolerant than many other Latin American cities. The hit movie Fresa y Chocolate (Strawberry and Chocolate) sparked a national dialogue about homosexuality, and Habana is pretty tolerant, all things considered. People from more accepting societies may find this tolerance token (everyone has a gay friend relative coworker, whom they'll mention when the topic arises), but what the hell, you have to start somewhere, and both Habana and Cuba are moving in the right direction.
Monteriggioni (S, 20km (12 miles) northwest of Siena along the SS2, is one of the most perfectly preserved fortified villages in all Italy. The tourist office is at Largo Fontebranda 5 (& 0577-304-810). You've probably seen aerial photos of this place at postcard stands. The town was once a Sienese outpost the city's soldiers patrolled the walls and kept an eye out for Florentine troops from the vantage points of Monteriggioni's towers. All 14 of these have survived more or less intact since the day Dante likened them to the circle of Titans guarding the lowest level of Hell. Although more day-trippers are stopping by every year and there's even a board-rated four-star hotel (Hotel Monteriggioni & 0577-305-009 www.hotel monteriggioni.net doubles 210 242) hidden in one of the buildings, Mon-teriggioni remains a sleepy little place. Most of the village is taken up with gardens and a few olive trees. Monteriggioni is content to offer you a lunch at one of its two restaurants, and sell...
Jagged, near-vertical rock faces, alternating with tree-covered hillsides, dwarf everything beneath them along the wildly romantic Hollental (Hell's Valley). It begins about 15km east of Freiburg and stretches along (and above) the serpentine B31 and the tracks of the Hollentalbahn, which passes through nine tunnels on its way from Freiburg to Donaueschingen. The best way to experience the gorge is on foot - a trail goes all the way from Freiburg to Titisee. Fans of wordplay will note that the Hol-lental's western gateway is the village of Him-melreich (Kingdom of Heaven), from where the valley continues east to Hinterzarten, 5km west of Titisee. Somewhere in the middle, not far from a death-defying hairpin curve, is a rest stop called Teufelsschw nzli ('devil's tail' in the local dialect).
Noble Hammock Trail begins between Nine Mile Pond and the Hells Bay trailhead on the east side of the Main Park Road. It passes through open country and small alligator ponds, through buttonwood, red mangrove and sawgrass. Its sharp corners and narrow passes require good maneuvering skills. Hell's Bay Trail was named by old timers because it is Hell to get into and Hell to get out of. The trailhead is halfway between Nine Mile Pond and West Lake on the west side of the Main Park Road. This sheltered route weaves through mangrove-lined creeks and ponds to a series of small bays beyond the Lard Can campsite. The trail may be difficult to follow - keep an eye out for markers. The first campsite lies approximately four miles from the starting point or within three hours travel time. The second campsite is in Hell's Bay, four miles from the first site, or 4 hours travel time. This trail gives the best opportunity to travel through overgrown passageways of red mangrove and brackish water....
A heavy drinker, nightly frequented a bar called the Golden Swan (more familiarly known as the Hell Hole or Bucket of Blood ) where the small park now stands. The bar was patronized by prostitutes, gangsters, longshoremen, anarchists, politicians, artists, and writers. O'Neill later used the bar as a setting for his play The Iceman Cometh, a script that was 12 years in the writing. Eccentric owner Tom Wallace, on whom O'Neill journeying to Spain with Hemingway during the Spanish Civil War. He was appalled that the Marxist-backed Republicans executed his friend Jose Robles, himself a Republican supporter. The incident, which caused a break between Dos Passos and Hemingway when the latter refused to challenge the integrity of the Republican cause, was the basis of Dos Passos's next novel, Adventures of a Young Man (1939). His books thereafter also demonstrated a marked shift to the right. In the 1940s, Dos Passos returned to his native Virginia. 35. The New School for Social Research,...
As you make you way through Wales, you might notice some fluffy white objects. Mostly they hang around in fields or leap around the hillsides - although they have been known to wander up and down the three-mile beach at Hell's Mouth on the Llyn Peninsula, watching the surfers. They are called sheep and we have quite a lot of them.
By the early 20th century, Bermuda was becoming a trendy winter destination for 'snow birds who flocked aboard steamers sailing from New York. The winter crossing, when stormy Atlantic seas are common, was rough enough that Twain compared his journey to 'going through hell' in order to reach paradise.
Locals roll their eyes, or get outright angry about it (or call something like the following as the 'walk to hell'), but an unmistakable draw for the city is the fascinatingly gruesome and ill-conceived changes Ceau escu's threw upon it. Following a 1977 earthquake that damaged many city buildings, and a fateful visit to Pyongyang that inspired him, Ceaujescu finished the Bucharest wreck-job in the early 1980s, levelling neighbourhoods with priceless ancient buildings. All done to make room for a grandiose world of housing blocks and government buildings that all but dominate the lowly pedestrian in a mostly car-free city (at the time). If you have only one day in Bucharest, you'll want to see this.
Built by the British over a period of 18 years from 1890, and preserved as a shrine to India's freedom fighters, the Cellular Jail National Memorial (GB Pant Rd admission Rs 5, camera video Rs 10 50 s 9am-12.30pm & 1.30-5pm closed Mon) is well worth a visit to understand the islands' colonial past and its significance in the memory of the Indian people. Originally seven wings containing 698 cells radiated from a central tower, but only three remain. These remnants, however, give a fair impression of the 'hell on earth' that the prisoners here endured. There's an art gallery, museum, martyrs' memorial, the original gallows, and good views from what was once the central tower.
There's not much to say about Rodina Mat (Map p66 literally 'Nation's Mother', but formally called the Defence of the Motherland Monument). However, from certain parts of Kyiv it's highly visible and so requires a high-profile explanation. Especially when you're approaching from the left (or east) bank, this 62m-tall statue of a female warrior is liable to loom on the horizon and make you wonder, 'What the hell is that ' What the hell, indeed. It's the icing on top of the Museumof the Great Patriotic War (Map p66 S 285 9452 www.warmuseum.kiev.ua vul Sichnevoho Povstannya 44 adult child 4 1uah S 10am-4pm Tue-Sun). The statue has been nicknamed 'the Iron Lady' and 'Tin Tits'. Even if you don't like such Soviet pomposity, don't say too much you'd be taking on a titanium woman carrying 12 tonnes of shield and sword. You can get right into her head -literally, via an elevator in the museum.
When Cromwell arrived at the walls of Drogheda, he was met by 2300 men led by Sir Arthur Aston, who boasted that 'he who could take Drogheda could take hell'. After Aston refused to surrender, Cromwell let fly with heavy artillery and after two days the walls were breached. Hell, it seems, was next.
The towering signs and flashing lights of Times Square, the gnarly trafficked area just north of 42nd Street where Sixth and Seventh avenues instersect with Broadway, bring a whole new meaning to the term sensory overload. Thousands of visitors pass through daily, some to see the spot of the famous New Year's Eve countdown celebration and gaze upon the formerly seedy yet now garishly ostentatious display of media and commercialism. The adjoining Theater District and its million-dollar Broadway productions still draw crowds, while Hell's Kitchen to the immediate west offers innumerable restaurants as well as a gritty nightlife.
Canoes and kayaks are available from the Flamingo Marina for half-day, full-day or overnight rentals. Since the Marina sits on Florida Bay and at the edge of the backcountry, you have an option of which area you would like to explore. For a nominal fee, Flamingo Lodge can transport your canoe to Noble Hammock Trail, Hell's Bay Trail, West Lake Trail and Bear Lake Trail. Canoes are available at Nine Mile Pond arrangements must be made at the Flamingo Marina. Kayaks are available to take out only from the Flamingo Marina. Rentals are subject to weather conditions.
3 Pak San St & San Hing St You'll pass traditional Chinese houses and several shops selling traditional Chinese medicine, incense and paper hell money to be burned in memory of the dead. Further south, and on the left at the intersection of Pak She St and Kwok Man Rd, is a small Tou Tei shrine, dedicated to the overworked earth god.
Take your pick of the various venues, including the Jazz Bar, open December to Easter and 1 month in summer. In winter, they import a different band every year, although there's only a piano player in summer. The Broken Bar, located in the basement, is where the most hardened ski bums listen to hard rock music at very high volumes, drink heavily, and generally raise hell. Le Village is the most interesting disco in Zermatt, built in a 19th-century alpine barn, with Edwardian palms, leather couches, candles, and bentwood chairs. David Bowie has performed here. For hunger pangs, head for the Brown Cow at street level, a rustic room with 19th-century farm implements hanging from the ceiling. The menu includes hamburgers, goulash soup, sandwiches, and salads. The Spaghetti Factory is also open year-round, until midnight.
There are two stories about the creation of Asbyrgi. The early Norse settlers believed that OSinn's normally airborne horse, Slaattur (known in literature as Sleipnir), accidentally touched down on earth and left one hell of a hoof print to prove it. The other theory, though more scientific, is equally incredible. Geologists believe that the canyon was created by an enormous eruption of the Grimsvotn caldera beneath distant Vatnajokull. It released an immense jokulhlaup, which ploughed northward down the Jokulsa a Fjollum and gouged out the canyon in a matter of days. The river then flowed through Asbyrgi for about 100 years before shifting eastward to its present course.
But if you're hell-bent on driving on a weekday, set out early to nab one of the Independence or Constitution avenues spots that become legal at 9 30am, when rush hour ends. Arrive about 9 15am and just sit in your car until 9 30am (to avoid getting a ticket), then hop out and stoke the meter. So many people do this that if you arrive at 9 30am or later, you'll find most of the street parking spots gone.
Fascinating as hutong neighborhoods may be, always remember that these are people's homes. Sometimes admiring the door piers or lintels is enough to win an invitation inside, and bystanders may mutter, 'See, lao wai (foreigners) appreciate these things, although they're more likely to ask, What the hell is that lao wai doing Those with some grasp of Mandarin or accompanied by a Chinese friend may be able to flatter their way inside, but never enter a siheyuan uninvited. You won't get shot, but you should be.
Raids by marauding Vikings had been a fact of Irish life for quite some time before a group of them decided to take some R-and-R from their hell-raising and built a harbour (or longphort)on the banks of the Liffey in 837. Although a Celtic army forced them out some 65 years later, they returned in 917 with a massive fleet, established a stronghold (or dun) by the black pool at Wood Quay (Map pp90-1), just behind Christ Church Cathedral, and dug their heels in. They went back to plundering the countryside but also laid down guidelines on plot sizes and town boundaries for their town of 'Dyflinn', which became the most prominent trading centre in the Viking world. But their good times came to an end in 1014 when an alliance of Irish clans led by Brian Bora decisively whupped them at the Battle of Clontarf, forever breaking the Scandinavian grip on the eastern seaboard. Rather than abandoning the place in defeat, however, the Vikings liked Dublin so much that they decided to stay and...
Running between Escalante and Boulder, Scenic Byway Route 12 climbs a narrow hogback ridge near Calf Creek Recreation Area amid breathtaking views and sheer drop-offs. The Civilian Conservation Corps built the road here in the early 1940s until then, the mail was delivered by mule into Boulder. Mountain bikers and four-wheel-drive vehicles can take the original Hell's Backbone dirt road into Dixie National Forest and Box Death Hollow Road, scourge of the mule-riding mailmen.
Whereas the French, right after the war, attempted to erase all signs of battle and return the Somme region to agriculture and normalcy, the Canadians decided that the most evocative way to remember their fallen was to preserve sections of the crater-pocked battlefields. As a result, the best place to get some sense of the unimaginable hell known as the Western Front is at the chilling, eerie moonscape of Vimy Ridge. Visitors can also visit tunnels (admission free Swith a guide early May-Nov) and reconstructed trenches (S 10am-6pm early May-Oct, 9am-5pm Nov-early May).
After passing the deserted Tirranna Roadhouse, you cross the Gregory River, a lush scene of running water surrounded by tropical vegetation. In remarkable contrast, the Nicholson River, 53km further on, presents a desolate picture in the dry season. It's only about 4km further to the Doomadgee Aboriginal Community ((Hj 47458188). While you are welcome to buy fuel (the last for almost 400km until Boorooloola) and shop at the store here, camping and village access is subject to permission being obtained from the council, and alcohol is restricted. It's another 80km of featureless Melaleuca scrub to Hell's Gate Roadhouse, which sadly closed its doors in 2007. Along the way you can take the signposted turn-off 42km to remote Kingfisher Camp ( 4745 8212 www.kingfisherresort.com.au day pass S3, sites per person family 8 18) on Bowthorn Station. The camping ground is set beside a gorgeous Skm-long water hole on the Nicholson River. Facilities include hot showers, toilets and a laundry. From...
Just one day before the Geneva Conference on Indochina was set to begin half a world away, Viet Minh forces overran the beleaguered French garrison at Dien Bien Phu after a 57-day siege. This shattered French morale and forced the French government to abandon its attempts to re-establish colonial control of Vietnam. For the full story of this incredible siege, pick up a copy of Hell in a Small Place - The Siege of Dien Bien Phu by legendary French reporter Bernard S Fall.
The Ypres Salient was formed by Allied attempts to push the invading German army away from its goal - the North Sea and its strategic French port towns. The geological formation of the Salient - a line of long, low ridges that ran for about 25km from Langemark north of Ypres to near Menen, close to the border with France - provided good vantage points. The armies fought battle after battle at the cost of hundreds of thousands of lives in a bid to hold the ridges. As one local tour operator, Salient Tours, describes it 'The years of deadlocked trench warfare created a barren landscape of mud and despair local villages such as Passendaele slowly descended into a merciless hell on earth'.
The park headquarters is at Buhoma on the northern edge of the park. The gorilla visits start from here and this is where all the accommodation is located. There is also a new sector at Nkuringo in the south of the park. Be aware that this area is rainforest, and not surprisingly it rains a hell of a lot -be prepared.
Petropavlovsk is strung along one main axis, the road that runs in from the airport 30km west. It enters the city limits as pr Pobedy and, for the hell of it, changes its name 11 times as it snakes around the rippling contours of the bayside hills. Although nominally pi Lenina is the 'historic centre' (quotes intended), there is no one focal point of Petro action.
The exploration of Jewel Cave began in about 1900 when two South Dakota prospectors, Frank and Albert Michaud, and a companion, Charles Bush, happened to hear wind rushing through a hole in the rocks in Hell Canyon. After enlarging the hole, they discovered a cave full of sparkling crystals. The entrepreneurs filed a mining claim on the Jewel Lode, but they found no valuable minerals, so they attempted to turn the cave into a tourist attraction. The business was never a success, but the cave's uniqueness did attract attention, and in 1908 Pres. Theodore Roosevelt established Jewel Cave National Monument to protect this remarkable natural wonder. When first asked to consider a trek below the surface, the Conns were reluctant. But after their first excursion into the underworld, the couple could not be turned away. In more than 2 decades of spelunking in Jewel Cave, the Conns logged 708 trips into the cave and 6,000 hours of exploration and mapping. Their efforts proved that Jewel Cave...
Another series of visions set in Hell, Purgatory and Heaven, compelled Catherine to take her work to the next level. Though it's said she didn't actually learn to write until near the end of her life, she began an ambitious and fearless letter-writing campaign - dictating up to three letters to three secretaries simultaneously - to all variety of influential people, including lengthy correspondence with Pope Gregory XI. She beseeched royalty and religious leaders for everything from peace between Italy's republics to reform within the clergy. This go-getting, early form of activism was considered highly unusual for a woman at the time and her no-holds-barred style, sometimes scolding cardinals and queens like naughty children, was gutsy by any standard. And yet, rather than being persecuted for her insolence, she was admired, her powers of persuasion often winning the day where so many others had failed.
Ii Circle Line ( 212-563-3200 www.circleline42.com) offers the famous Full Island Cruise, which sails around Manhattan in three hours (daily Mar-Dec 25 adults, 12 children, 20 seniors). The cruise leaves from Pier 83 at West 42nd Street and Twelfth Avenue. You see Manhattan from both sides, go under the George Washington Bridge, and pass down through Hell Gate, the murky, swirling spot where the East River and the Harlem River meet. Departing from the same location, Circle Line also offers a shorter cruise, which goes back and forth around the lower half of Manhattan and lasts two hours (daily Mar-Dec 20 adults, 10 children, 17 seniors) and a Harbor Lights cruise, also a two-hour cruise (at dusk, call for precise schedule 20 adults, 10 children, 17 seniors). From Pier 16 at the South Street Seaport, Circle Line has a one-hour Liberty cruise to see the Lady and the harbor (daily Mar-Dec 13 adults, 7 children, 11 seniors). Allow up to 45 minutes for ticketing and boarding.
Ornate costumes don't always make a band stand out. Some Love Ends in Hell arrived on stage, with blood-red bodies and horns and a lot of real dirt people were painted red and blue or a mixture of the two and were wearing all sorts of parts and pieces of costumes. They had their horns or a tail and off they went. Aman passed by with a bucket of paint ready to help anybody join in. Someone went by in a devil costume painted all black, followed by another. It was absolutely chaotic and wonderful. I thought this was much more traditional costuming and I loved it.
This is southern France back country - hot as hell in summer - where dusty dirt car parks hewed out between arid scrub and boulder skulk without care or finesse at the feet of ruined fortresses, impossibly built on rocky, wind-lashed outcrops to defend France's medieval frontier with the kingdom of Aragon. Here in this wild, barely populated countryside crusaders massacred Cathar heretics in the 13th century - let the thought fire your imagination as you hike step by step to the evocative ruins, stumbling as you do that little bit closer to heaven in every sense.
The huge Daiyue Hall (Daiyue Dian) is consecrated to the God of Taishan, who manages the 18 layers of hell. Visit during festival time, especially during the Chinese New Year and the Mid-Autumn festival, and you'll see the temple at its most vibrant.
On the western wall of the cathedral is a vast mosaic depicting the Last Judgment. Hell (lower right side) doesn't look any fun at all. Sceptics in the 21 st century may grin knowingly, but such images inspired sheer terror in the average resident of Torcello back in the 12th and 13th centuries, when the mosaics were put together.
There are some good picnic beaches in the area. Hell's Gate Beach, half a mile west of town, looks out onto two striking rock columns protruding from the sea - the columns are collectively known as Devil's Rock. However, this beach is unsuitable for swimming. Further west is Batibou Bay, a scenic beach that's good for swimming and was
APPALACHIAN TRAIL Best known of the hiking trails in the Unaka District is, of course, the Appalachian Trail. There are almost 75 miles of the trail within this district, beginning with an entry point in the south at Big Butte, and ending on the crest of Pond Mountain to the north. The main features of this trail section include Beauty Spot, Pond Mountain, the Nolichucky River, Unaka Mountain, Roan Mountain and Laurel Fork. There are magnificent, open views from many of the balds, and the trail leads through various forest types, including red spruce, and upland and cove hardwoods. Appalachian Trail shelters in the Unaka District are at Flint Mountain, Hogback Ridge, Bald Mountain, No Business Knob, Curly Maple Gap, Cherry Gap, Clyde Smith, Roan High Knob, Yellow Mountain Gap, Roan Highlands, Apple House, Moreland Gap and Laurel Fork. Trailheads are located at Devils Fork Gap (NC Highway 212), Sam's Gap (US 23), Spivey Gap (US 19W), Chestoa Pike (Erwin TN), Indian Grave Gap (TN...
Brewers Bay Campground (X 494-3463 Brewers Bay campsites equipped tents USS20 40) Tortola's only commercial campground is around the bend from Cane Garden Bay, although it's a hell of a ride over zigzagging mountain roads. The sites sit under sea-grape trees and tall palms right on the beach. You can bring a tent or use the prepared sites (which include two cots, linens and a cook stove) the latter are a bit worn and gloomy, so you're better off with your own gear. Everyone shares the cold-water bathhouse and flush toilets. There's a beach bar for beer and other sustenance.
In the early 1930s, Stalin launched Soviet Russia on a hell-bent industrialisation campaign. The campaign cost millions of lives, but by 1939 only the USA and Germany had higher levels of industrial output. Moscow set the pace for this rapid development. Political prisoners became slave labourers. The building of the Moscow-Volga Canal was overseen by the secret police, who forced several hundred thousand 'class enemies to dig the 125km-long ditch. More importantly, Yeltsin embraced the more open political atmosphere. He allowed 'informal groups, unsanctioned by the Communist Party, to organise and express themselves in public. Soon Moscow streets, such as those in the Arbat district, were hosting demonstrations by democrats, nationalists, reds and greens. Yeltsin s renegade style alienated the entire Party leadership, one by one. He was summarily dismissed by Gorbachev in October 1987, though he would be heard from again.
Seoul now has more than 40 universities - including the best, or at least most famous in Korea. To get into one of the top universities, high-school students go through examination hell, studying 14 hours a day, often in private cram schools at night. Almost from the cradle, mothers are preparing their offspring for those all-important exams that will determine their child's fate and status in life. An only-in-Korea phenomenon is a girugi appa (wild-goose father), a man who stays in Korea to work while the mother takes the children overseas to live (meaning, study).
The path crosses the stream on enormous boulders and climbs the heathery slope, then emerges onto more open ground, but still with the steep slopes towering above, their cliffs scoured by glaciers eons ago. Elongated mounds of moraine, left behind by the retreating glaciers, partly block the valley as you climb towards the pass. The path is marked by occasional cairns follow these carefully, keeping to the left (east) for the final stretch to the crest. Ahead, the rugged peaks of Cairn Toul and the Devil's Point come into view. Continue for another 500m or so to the Pools of Dee - the headwaters of the River Dee - from where you can look far down the southern side of the Lairig Ghru.
The full title of this church, Santa Maria Magglore alia Pletrasanta, Is a reference to a 17th-century practice of kissing the church's pietrasanta (holy stone) to gain Indulgences. Dating to the 6th century, the church was originally built by San Pomponlo, the Bishop of Naples. According to legend, he did so to appease worried locals, who reported sightings of the devil In the form of a pig on the site. The church was modified In the 17th century by Coslmo Fanzago, whose dome Is visible from miles around. The Romanesgue campanile (bell tower) Is one of Naples' oldest, built sometime between the 10th and 11th centuries. Adjacent to the church, the 15th-century (appella Pontano boasts an exgulslte majolica-tiled floor.
Padua itself is sometimes known as La Citth del Santo (the city of the saint), the reference being to St. Anthony of Padua, who is buried at a basilica the city dedicated to him. Il Santo was an itinerant Franciscan monk (who is not to be confused with St. Anthony of Egypt, the monastic hermit who could resist all temptations of the Devil). GETTING THERE Padua-bound trains depart for and arrive from Venice once every 30 minutes (trip time about 30 min.), costing 7.45 ( 9.70) for a one-way ticket. For information and schedules, call & 892021. Padua's main rail terminus is at the Piazza Stazione, north of the historic core and outside the 16th-century walls. Frequent buses run to the center from the station. entrance wall is Giotto's Last Judgment, with Hell winning out in sheer fascination. The chapel is open daily from 9am to 7pm, and charges an admission fee of 12 ( 15.60) for adults and 5 ( 6.50) for ages 6 to 17. The fee includes entrance to the nearby Museo Civico di Padova ,...
You'll eventually arrive at a gap in the rock that acts as a window on a blue-tinged lake not far below, its luminous colour caused by the dissolved limestone. From here you can either reach Caves House, the end of the walk, by the direct right-hand route, or along the left-hand trail that goes via the looming cavern known as the Devil's Coachhouse.
St Elizabeth spent most of her childhood here - see Marburg in the Hesse chapter for more on her life, page 330. A popular sight on the Wartburg is the wood-paneled quarters where Martin Luther resided for almost a year, while disguised as a simple monk. Apart from translating the New Testament into German, Luther was a prolific writer producing numerous letters and manuscripts. Soon after he left the Wartburg, it became an important pilgrim's station and one of the famous sights was the ink stain on the wall. Martin Luther wrote that he had to fight the devil with ink. Although he meant fighting with writing, it soon became legend that an ink stain on the wall of his room was caused when Martin Luther threw an inkpot at the devil. For cen-
The Devil's Forest Pub fjp, San Marco 5185, on Calle Stagneri (& 041-5200623 vaporetto San Marco), offers the outsider an authentic chance to take in the convivial atmosphere and find out where Venetians do hang out. It's popular for lunch with the neighborhood merchants and shop owners and ideal for
These days scientists can explain exactly how a volcano erupts magma from the earth's core explodes through the crust and spews ash, rock and molten lava over the land. But the Guanches, living in pre-Hispanic Tenerife, had a more romantic version. According to legend, the 13th-century eruption was caused when El Teide swallowed the sun. The people believed that the devil, Guyota, lived inside El Cheide, as El Teide was then known. One day he emerged from his underground lair and saw the sun. Jealous of its light, he stole it and hid it inside his lair, causing death, destruction and darkness all over the island. The Guanches begged Chaman, the sky god, for help, and the god battled Guyota inside the volcano. The Guanches knew Chaman had triumphed when one morning they awoke to see the sun back in the sky and the volcano plugged with rock, trapping the evil Guyota inside forever.
31 Just In front of East Shaftoe Hall, turn left along the track, through the gate on to Shaftoe Crags. Follow the path round and you will come to a strange rock formation on the left - this Is the Devil's Punchbowl. Access to the basin Is by way of footholds and climbing onto the rock should be done with great care as there is a sheer drop to the south.
Such as Helford and Coverack - the name of the latter actually means 'Hideaway' -and for the swimming to be had in the clear green waters of lovely coves such as Kennack Sands and Kynance Cove, which is hemmed in by dramatic sea cliffs, stacks and arches. Or, perhaps on more windswept days, take a walk along the coast path to the Devil's Frying Pan, where a natural arch in the cliffs stands guard over a huge hole formed after the collapse of a cave roof. It receives a spectacular battering from the sea on stormy days.
Parents and other relatives treat babies very affectionately, but when they reach three years old, they are pushed away, and made the responsibility of an older sibling or cousin. Fa'aaloalo (respect for elders) is the most crucial aspect of the fa 'a Samoa, and children are expected to obey not just their parents, grandparents, uncles and aunts, but all the matai and adults in the village as well as older siblings. It's tough to be at the beck and call of so many people On the buses, you will see young people give up their seats to elders. Any disobedience or answering back is sternly punished. The Bible is often quoted to support this - 'the rod and reproof teach wisdom'. Samoans take a pessimistic view of human nature and believe that the devil never rests.
Unemployment is a permanent problem z for many. Refugees from the countryside and n scores of people with little education far out- weigh even the available number of menial -1 jobs. As if to prove every old conservative so bromide, idle hands are the devil's tool, and the large numbers of idle young men and boys are responsible for much of the mischief and worse that occurs. At times content to play guitars and drink, at other times these bands of youths form angry, rock-throwing mobs. Many are in gangs prosaically named 'martial arts groups'. These are not the kimono-clad, brick-choppers you might imagine but rather they closely resemble gangs found elsewhere in the world. With lurid names taken from violent movies and rap songs, the gangs act out on the frustration felt by many. Offering its young people hope for the future through jobs, development and education is just another item on East Timor's long to-do list.
Remember though that this isn't the open African savanna but a dense forest, and despite the impressive number of animals you would have to put in a good deal of effort to get anything other than a fleeting glimpse. One thing you won't miss though are the insects, and rather than concentrating on the bigger mammals you will find your visit more rewarding if you focus instead on the bugs and birds. Of these bugs, the most visible are the ropelike columns of aggressive ants, the flamboyant butterflies and, maybe less welcome, the enormous orb spiders (also called banana spiders). You won't be able to miss these black, red and yellow monsters hanging from spiderman-sized webs between trees, but don't worry, they might look like the devil incarnate but they are in fact harmless - or so we're told
For the Sami all elements of nature were imbued with a spirit, and great care and attention went to ensure that spirits were appeased and placated. The Sami noaidi (shamans) played a central role in this. Although the noaidi acted as diviners and spiritual facilitators of the hunt, their primary role was as healer. With the help of guardian spirits such as fish, birds or reindeer, the spirit of the noaidi would travel to hidden spirit worlds either to bargain with the deities to ensure good weather and good hunting or to retrieve a soul that may have wandered from a person's sick body. Although traditional medical carers could treat minor diseases and illnesses, only the noaidi had the power to win back a lost soul. Sometimes, depending on the nature of the ailment, the sacrifice of a reindeer, goat or lamb would be offered to the deity or spirit. While many shamans were killed for being in league with the devil during the fervent conversion to Christianity in the 16th and 17th...
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