The Bar Scene

Bachus This restaurant offers one of the capital's most convivial watering spots. Surrounded by oriental carpets, bronze statues, intimate lighting, and polite uniformed waiters, you can hobnob with some of the most glamorous people in Lisbon. Late-night candlelit suppers are served in the bar. The array of drinks is international prices start at 3.50 ( 4.05). It's open Monday through Saturday from noon to 3 30am. Largo da Trindade 9. & 21 342-28-28. Bus 58 or 100. Bar do Rio Set directly on...

Fast Facts Madeira

American Express The representative in Madeira is Top Tours Travel Agency, Avenida do Mar 15 ( 291 20-62-60), in Funchal. It's open Monday through Friday from 9 30am to 1pm and 2 30 to 6 30pm, and is a fullservice American Express office. Area Code The country code for Portugal is 351 the area code for Madeira is 291. Automated Teller Machines (ATMs) Most ATMs (available 24 hr. a day) are found in Funchal. But there are also some ATMs in towns throughout the island. Business Hours Shops are...

Portuguese Cuisine Teeming with Seafood

In her Invitation to Portugal, Mary Jean Kempner gets to the heart of the Portuguese diet The best Portuguese food is provincial, indigenous, eccentric, and proud a reflection of the chauvinism of this complex people. It takes no sides, assumes no airs, makes no concessions or bows to Brillat-Savarin and usually tastes wonderful. DINING CUSTOMS & TAXES Much Portuguese cooking is based on olive oil and the generous use of garlic. If you select anything prepared to order, you can request that...

Having Fun In Cascais

EXPLORING THE TOWN Many visitors, both foreign and domestic, clog the roads to Cascais on summer Sundays, when there are bullfights at the Monumental de Cascais, a ring outside the city center (see Spectator Sports, in chapter 4). When you're not at the beach, a good place to relax is the sprawling Parque do Marechal Carmona, open daily from 9am to 8pm. It lies at the southern tip of the resort, near the water. Here you'll find a shallow lake, a cafe, and a small zoo. Chairs and tables are set...

Planning Your Trip to Portugal

Just getting started is the difficult part for many travelers. This chapter addresses the where, when, and how of visiting Portugal all the logistics of putting your trip together and taking it on the road. Portugal's coastline stretches some 800km (496 miles). The country is bounded on the south and west by the Atlantic Ocean and on the north and east by Spain. Continental Portugal totals some 55,000 sq. km (21,450 sq. miles) its Atlantic islands, including Madeira and the Azores, add 1,935...

Moderate

Grande Hotel do Porto fj Charming and evocative of a long-gone way of life, this is a carefully renovated relic of a hotel that's set on an all-pedestrian street with the densest collection of shops in central Porto. Radically renovated in 2001, it has an appealing combination of the 1950s with Belle Epoque accessories. It was originally built in 1891 in a five-story Grand Hotel format that's still visible in its late Victorian facade and elaborate exterior detailing. Today it's a three-star...

Where To Stay Very Expensive

Tivoli Pal cio de Seteais f fi S This is one of the most luxurious palaces at which you can lodge in all of Portugal. Lord Byron worked on Childe Harold's Pilgrimage in the front garden of this palace, which later became a hotel. Seteais looks older than it is a Dutch Gildmeester built it in the late 18th century. The fifth marqu s de Marialva, who sponsored many receptions and galas for the aristocrats of his day, later took over and restored the palace. The hotel lies at the end of a long...

Shopping in Madeira

Crafts are rather expensive on the island, but collectors might want to seek out exquisite Madeira embroidery or needlework. Check to see that merchandise has a lead seal attached to it, certifying that it was made on Madeira and not imported. The businesses listed in this section are all in Funchal. At the factory Patricio & Gouveia, Rua do Visconde de Anadia 33 (& 291 22-29-28), you can see employees making stencil patterns on embroidery and checking for quality of materials, though the...

Packages For The Independent Traveler

Airlines, including Continental Airlines Vacations ( 800 301-3800 in the U.S. www.coolvacations.com) and TAP (& 800 221-7370 in the U.S. www.tap-airportugal.us). Miami is an increasingly popular launching pad for Iberia. The best traditional and customized tours in Florida are offered by Latin Tour Dimensions, 5900 Collins Ave., Suite 1502, Miami Beach, FL 33140 (& 800 644-0438 in the U.S., or 305 861-3069 fax 305 861-5043 In the United Kingdom, organized tour operators include Magic...

The Best Romantic Getaways

Guincho On the Estoril Coast, 9km (5' 2 miles) northwest of Cascais, this is the westernmost point in continental Europe. It's a dramatic, spectacular site where waves crash against three sides of a restored 17th-century fortress (now the Hotel do Guincho, one of the most unusual, luxurious hotels in Europe). Balconies best shared with a loved one overlook the panoramic scene, with beaches on both sides. The crashing surf makes good background music for a torrid affair straight out of a...

The Heart Of Porto

Best Times Any day between 10am and 4pm. Worst Times Monday through Friday from 8 to 10am and 4 to 6pm, because of heavy traffic. The only suitable way to explore the heart of the inner city is on foot. Nearly all the major monuments are in the old part of town, and the major sights are close together. The streets are often narrow and sometimes confusing to the first-time visitor even armed with a good map, you're likely to get lost from time to time. Long accustomed to entertaining foreigners,...

Having Fun In Sintra

OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES The best golf course is the Estoril-Sol Golf Club, Estrada da Lagoa Azul, outside Sintra (& 21 923-24-61). At the foot of the Sintra mountain range, the course lies some 32km (20 miles) from Lisbon. The Palacio Nacional da Pena looms overhead, and the course occupies a forest setting with acacias and pines. It's fairly short, stretching 4,429m (14,527 ft.) and offering only 9 holes. A 9-hole round costs 24 ( 28) Monday through Friday, 31 ( 36) Saturday and Sunday, and 17 (...

S Lisbon Shopping From Antiques to Wine

Portuguese handcrafts often exhibit exotic influences, in large part because of the artisans' versatility and their skill in absorbing other styles. Portugal's vast history as a seafaring nation also surely has something to do with it. The best place to see their work is in Lisbon, where shopkeepers and their buyers hunt out unusual items from all over Portugal, including the Madeira Islands and the Azores. SHOPPING AREAS Shops operate all over the city, but Baixa, in downtown Lisbon, is the...

Espinho After Dark

If you want to gamble, you're in luck. The big gray Casino Solverde, Rua 19 no. 85, 4500-858 Espinho (& 22 733-55-00), offers roulette, French banque, baccarat, and slot machines. Open all year, it has a restaurant and nightclub in addition to the gaming tables. Admission is free for bingo and slot machines to gain access to the gaming tables, you must show proper ID (such as a passport). The nightclub stages international cabaret. Dinner and the show cost between 25 and 38 ( 29- 44) without...

Neighborhoods In Brief

Baixa The business district of Lisbon, Baixa contains much Pom-baline-style architecture. (The term refers to the prime minister who rebuilt Lisbon following the earthquake.) Many major Portuguese banks are headquartered here. Running south, the main street of Baixa separates Pra a do Comercio from the Rossio. A triumphal arch leads from the square to Rua Augusta, where there are many clothing stores. The two most important streets of Baixa are Rua da Prata (Street of Silver) and Rua Aurea,...

Where To Dine

Casa Velha FRENCH Casa Velha, an excellent dining choice, is not part of the nearby Quinta do Lago resort. On a hillside behind its massive neighbor, it overlooks the resort's lake from the premises of a century-old farmhouse that has functioned as a restaurant since the early 1960s. The cuisine is mainly French, with a scattering of Portuguese and international dishes. Start with foie gras or marinated lobster salad. Specialties include a salad of chicken livers and gizzards with leeks and...

Finds Secrets of Lisbon

The places below provide a view of Lisbon not often seen by the casual visitors passing through the city. The Markets The big market of Ribeira Nova is as close as you can get to the heart of Lisbon. Behind the Cais do Sodr train station, an enormous roof shelters a collection of stalls offering the produce used in Lisbon's fine restaurants. Foodstuffs arrive each morning in wicker baskets bulging with oversize carrots, cabbages big enough to be shrubbery, and stalks of bananas. Some of the...

By Public Transportation

CARRIS amp 21 361-30-30 www.carris.pt operates the network of funiculars, trains, subways, and buses in Lisbon. The company sells a bilhete de assinatura tur stico tourist ticket that's good for 4 days of unlimited travel on its network. It costs 9.95 11 . A 1-day pass goes for 2.75 3.15 a 7-day pass costs 14 16 . Passes are sold in CARRIS booths, open from 9am to 5pm daily, in most Metro stations and network train stations. You must show a passport to buy a pass. METRO Lisbon's Metro stations...

Setubal After Dark

The densest concentration of nightlife options lies near the western terminus of Avenida Luisa Todi, the road leading west to a string of beaches. The most intriguing is Scandall, Avenida Luisa Todi no phone . A series of rooms with elaborately vaulted ceilings which long ago sheltered a convent offer several bars and musical atmospheres. Although most of the place seems designed for talking and drinking, one room functions as a dance club. It's open daily from 11pm till dawn. Another rich...

Exploring The Town

The most bizarre attraction in Faro is the Capela d'Ossos Chapel of Bones . Enter through a courtyard from the rear of the Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Monte do Carmo do Faro, Largo do Carmo 28 982-44-90 . Erected in the 19th century, the chapel is completely lined with human skulls an estimated 1,245 and bones. It's open daily May to September 10am to 1pm and 3 to 6pm and October to April Monday through Friday 10am to 1pm and 3 to 5pm, and Saturday 10am to 1pm. Entrance is free to the church and...

Accommodations

Albatroz Cascais , 9,1S4 Albergaria Catedral Funchal , 384 Albergaria do Calv rio vora , 270 Albergaria Josefa d'Obidos, 193 Lagos , 21S Albergaria Miradouro Portimao , 221 Porto , 324 Albergaria Rainha Santa Isabel Obidos , 193,195 Albergaria Senhora a Branca Braga , 3, 351 Albergaria Solar de Monfalm vora , 270-271 Albergaria Valbom Cascais , 155 Portimao , 222 Amaz nia Lennox Estoril Estoril , 148 Apartamentos Albufeira Albufeira , 232 Arcada Hotel Aveiro , 300 Atis Hotel Quarteira , 238...

Exploring Sintra

Many organized tours depart from both Lisbon and Sintra. However, this approach allows no time for personal discovery, a must in Sintra. Horse-drawn carriages are available for rent between the town and Serra de Sintra. The 45-minute tour costs 25 29 for up to five passengers. It's well worth the price for a most agreeable trip under shady trees. The carriages start from and return to the large square in front of the National Palace of Sintra. If you arrive in Sintra by train, you'll have to...