Arc Internet Café Bar VEGAN/VEGETARIAN/CAFE The Arc is quintessential Dunedin, and you won't find another place like it in New Zealand. It's deservedly famous in the backpacker community and on the local arts and music scene. And as the sign in the window says, it has "coffee with chutzpah." A slightly crazy interior sets the scene for the Film Society, gigs by local bands, jazz nights, and free Internet use. It has a changing blackboard menu, a bar, and a huge following among 20- and 30-somethings. If you want to find out how Dunedin grooves, this is the place to go—day or night. 135 High St. & 03/474-1135. Main courses NZ$12-$15 (US$6.60-$8.25). MC, V. Mon-Sat 10am-late.

Jizo Café/Bar JAPANESE This is the best place to sample cheap, authentic Japanese food in a casual environment. Service is snappy and the staff speaks both Japanese and English. It has a full sushi menu, udon, katsus, and seafood, vegetarian, and meat dishes, not to mention an impressive range of Japanese beers and sake. All this and jazz music. It could only happen in Dunedin. 56 Princes St. & 03/479-2692. Main courses NZ$10-$20 (US$5.50-$11).AE, DC, MC,V. Mon-Sat 11am-9pm (Fri till 10pm).

Everyday Gourmet Ltd. 446 George St., Dunedin (& 03/477-2045), provides instant gourmet satisfaction and the chance to find the perfect, unusual gifts for friends and family back home. Quite apart from the delicious counter food and light meals on offer, there are shelves bulging with products from near and far. This is where you'll find New Zealand-made items that will surprise and delight: the country's best olive oils, sauces, honey, preserves, chocolates, and cheeses, all presented in attractive gift packs. While you try to decide what to buy, enjoy the terrific coffee. Open Monday through Friday from 9am to 6pm, Saturday from 10am to 3pm.

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