Other Activities

The visitor information centre, the Hermitage, the YHA and Glentanner Park provide information and make bookings for activities and tours. Note most of them are weather-dependent and seasonal. Glacier Explorers ( 03-435 1077 www.glacierexplor ers.com adult child 120 60) heads out on the terminal lake of the Tasman Glacier. It starts with a half-hour walk to the shore of Lake Tasman, where you board a small motorised inflatable and get up close and personal with 500-year old icebergs. See the...

Maori Nz The East Coast

The main iwi (tribes) in the region are Te Whanau-a-Apanui (west side (east side of East Cape), Ngati Kahungunu (the coast from Hawkes Bay in Te Urewera). Ngati Porou and Ngati Kahungunu are the country's second and th 19th century they produced the great leaders James Carroll (the first M Apirana Ngata (who was briefly acting Prime Minister). Ngata, whose worked tirelessly in Parliament to orchestrate a cultural revival withii magnificent carved meeting houses are part of his legacy. Many...

Tuatapere to Riverton

Colac Bay is a popular holiday and (as the enormous fibreglass surfer implies) a good surfing spot. Southerlies provide the best swells here, but it's pretty consistent year-round and never crowded. Dustez Bak Paka's & Camping Ground ( 03-234 8399 www.dustezbakpakas.co.nz 15 Colac Bay Rd sites per person 13, dm 24, d 48-56) has basic rooms opening onto a covered courtyard and campsites in a grassy field surrounded by cows, chickens and garden knick-knacks. Guests can borrow surfboards. You...

BUS

Andrew St S ticket offi Sat, 11am-5.15pm Sun, has direct services 40 minutes), Chri Queenstown ( 42, 4'A hours) and Inv Southern Link ( www.southernlinkcoachi to Christchurch ( A door-to-door s> 12 to 22. Coastli .coastline-tours.co.nz) ru Oamaru ( 28), an Karitane, Seacliff Naked Bus ( 0900 i nects Dunedin w Queenstown ( 33) Anau ( 33). 590 DUNEDIN & THE OTAGO PENINSULA Dunedin l onel ypl anet.com l onel ypl anet.com DUNEDIN & THE OTAGO PENINSUL

Tours

Bottom Bus ( 03-437 0753 www.bottombus.co.nz) does a regular loop from Queenstown to Dunedin, south through the Catlins to Invercargill, along the Southern Scenic Route to Te Anau, then back to Queenstown. It stops at all main points of interest, and you can always hop off and catch the next bus coming through. There's lots of pass options the Southlander pass ( 385) lets you start anywhere on the loop and includes a Milford Sound cruise. Catlins Coaster ( 03-437 0753 www.catlinscoaster .co.nz...

Maori Then

Some three millennia ago people began moving eastwards into the Pacific, sailing against the prevailing winds and currents (hard to go out, easier to return safely). Some stopped at Tonga and Samoa, and others settled the small central East Polynesian tropical islands. The Maori colonisation of Aotearoa began from an original homeland known to Maori as Hawaiki (see p30). Skilled navigators and sailors travelled across the Pacific, using many navigational tools - currents, winds, stars, birds...

Golf

Taupo Golf Club (Map p301 07-378 6933 www .taupogolf.co.nz 32 Centennial Dr 9 holes 20-35, 18 holes 3560) has two good 18-hole courses, one a park course and the other an inland links. Eight kilometres north of Taupo is Wairakei Golf Course (Map p301 07-374 8152 www.wairakei golfcourse.co.nz SH1, Wairakei 18 holes 95-200), a challenging course set in 450 acres of beautiful countryside, rated within the top 100 courses worldwide. For those wanting a more leisurely hit, there is a nine-hole...

Coromandel Forest Park

More than 30 walks crisscross the Coromandel Forest Park, spread over several major blocks throughout the centre of the peninsula. The most popular hike is the challenging six- to eight-hour return journey up to the Pinnacles (759m) in the Kauaeranga Valley behind Thames. Other outstanding tramps include the Coromandel Coastal Walkway from Fletcher Bay to Stony Bay (see p204) and the Puketui Valley walk to abandoned gold mines (see p210). The Department of Conservation (DOC) Kauaeranga Visitor...

Papatowai

Papatowai Motor Camp ( 03-415 8565 pest es.co.nz Main Rd powered sites per adult child 8 4, cabin d 22-32 E) Behind the Papatowai Scenic Highway Store, this grassy field has a few trees for privacy and fairly basic cabins. Hilltop ( 03-415 8028 www.hilltopbackpackers.co.nz 77 Tahakopa Valley Rd dm 30, d 70-80 E) High on a hill 1'Akm out of town, with native forest at the backdoor and surrounded by sheep farm, this lovely old renovated pair of houses has the most spectacular view of hills and...

BUDGET

Blenheim's budget beds fill with long-stay guests, working in the area's vineyards and orchards hostel owners help find seasonal work and offer reasonable weekly rates. Grapevine Backpackers ( 03-578 6062 www.the grapevine.co.nz 29 Park Tce unpowered sites 17, dm 22, tw & d 48, tr 72 D) Inside an old maternity home just out of the centre, Grapevine is another worker-focussed hostel, with a brilliant sunset deck by Opawa Stream. Free canoes bikes 15 per day. Avoid the three-tier bunks if...

Nationwide Passes

InterCity's pan-NZ 'multitransport' Travelpass 0800 339 966 www.travelpass.co.nz) combines bus travel with a ferry crossing, plus train travel if desired. Passes are purchased for 'days' of travel, and are valid for a year. Travelpass 2-in-0ne InterCity bus travel, plus one Inter-islander ferry crossing (Wellington Picton or vice versa) the pass costs 399 619 871 for five 10 15 travel days. Travelpass 3-in-0ne As above for bus and ferry, plus one train journey (choose from the TranzAlpine,...

Opotiki

This charming town has much to recommend it. The beaches - Ohiwa and Waiotahi - are worth the trip alone, but it's also the gateway to the East Cape and the rugged forests and river valleys of the Raukumara and nearby ranges. Just recently, an excellent local museum was opened, a credit to the proud townsfolk and yet another good reason to pay a visit. The Opotiki area was settled from at least 1150, some 200 years before the larger 14th-century migration. Maori traditions are well preserved...

Coromandel Town To Whitianga

There are two routes from Coromandel Town southeast to Whitianga. The main road is the slightly longer but quicker SH25, which follows the coast, enjoys sea views and has short detours to pristine sandy beaches. The other is the less-travelled but legendary 309 Rd, an unsealed, untamed route through deep bush. SH25 starts by climbing sharply to an incredible lookout before heading steeply down with craggy Castle Rock (526m) in the distance. The turn-off at Te Rerenga follows the harbour to...

Huka Falls Jet Prawn Farm

Further down the Falls Loop road is the launch for Huka Falls Jet (Map p301 0800 485 2538,07-374 8572 www.hukafallsjet.com trips adult child 95 55). This 30-minute thrill ride takes you up the river to the spray-filled foot of the Huka Falls and down to the Aratiatia Dam, all the while dodg-

Buying A

For stays of two mt look at buying a < dealers on the buy or auctions, or th hostels. Before buy that it is mechani stolen, and does no to a finance compa Buy-backs, whe back your car for a of what you pay), offer a safety net i the car. A popular way fairs where peopl sell them. Arrive b for the best choi about noon. For a sis and licence-pl inspection service Check details are car fairs 5 9am-noon Sun) It's to display your vehicle. City Car Fair (Map pp1 www.nzbike.com 35 Cr 10am-5pm Sat,...

The Bombing Of The Rainbow Warrior

On the morning of 10 July 1985, New Zealanders awoke to news that a a man in Auckland Harbour. The Greenpeace flagship Rainbow Warri Marsden Wharf, preparing to sail to Moruroa Atoll near Tahiti to prote testing. French secret service officers, in the employ of the French gov sives to the side of the ship and sank her, killing activist Fernando Pe It took some time to find out exactly what had happened, but t captured, tried and found guilty. The others have never been brought The incident...

The

Tip of the cape is a spiritually significant 800-year-old pohutukawa tree souls are believed to slide down its roots. Out of respect to the most sacred site in Maoridom, don't go near the tree and refrain from eating or drinking anywhere in the area. Posting a letter from what must surely be NZ's most remote mailbox is OK though. Contrary to expectation, Cape Reinga isn't actually the northernmost point of the country that honour belongs to Surville Cliffs further to the east. A walk along Te...

Middleearth Tourism

If you are one of those travellers inspired to come down under by the scenery of the LOTR movies, you won't be disappointed. Jackson's decision to film in NZ wasn't mere patriotism. Nowhere else on earth will you find such wildly varied, unspoiled landscapes. You will doubtless recognisesomeplacesfromthefilms. For example, Hobbiton (near Matamata p232), Mt Doom (instantly recognisable as towering Ngauruhoe p309) or the Misty Mountains (the South Island's Southern Alps). The visitor information...

Havelock

The highlight of tiny Havelock is its industrious harbour, which helps the town maintain the title of 'Greenshell Mussel Capital of the World'. Havelock sits at the confluence of the Pelorus and Kaiuma Rivers, 36km west of Picton, and makes a practical base from which to explore the more remote parts of Pelorus and Kenepuru Sounds. Online resources include www.have locknz.com and www.pelor us.co.nz. The helpful staff at Havelock Infocentre ( 03-574 2114 www.havelocknz.com 70 Main Rd h...

Getting There Away

InterCity ( 03-249 7559 www.intercity.co.nz) has daily bus services between Te Anau and Queenstown ( 35, two hours), Invercargill ( 46, hours) and Dunedin ( 44, four hours). InterCity departs from outside the i-SITE. Look online for discounts. Other bus services include Naked Bus ( 0900 625 33 www.nakedbus.com) Connects Te Anau with Queenstown ( 29), Dunedin ( 33) and Tuatapere and Invercargill ( 32). Scenic Shuttle ( 0800 277 483 www.scenicshuttle .co.nz) Via the Southern Scenic Route past...

Tokomaru Bay to Gisborne

After a bucolic 22km of highway and further 7km to the coast, it's a definite 'wow' moment when isolated Anaura Bay springs into view far below. A plaque near the centre of the bay commemorates Captain Cook's arrival in 1769 when he commented on the 'profound peace' in which the people were living and their 'truly astonishing' cultivations. Pretty little Hinetamatea Marae remains at the south end of the bay. Anaura Bay Walkway is a 3.5km ramble through native forest and grassland, starting at...

Te Whakarewarewa Te Puia

Pronounced 'fa-ka-re-wa-re-wa', this area's full name is Te Whakarewarewatanga o te Ope Taua a Wahiao, meaning 'The Gathering Together of the War Party of Wahiao', although many people just call it 'Whaka'. Whatever you prefer, this thermal reserve is as famous for its Maori cultural significance as its steam and bubbling mud. There are two separate visitor attractions here, both located around 3km from the city centre at the south end of Fenton Street. City buses stop near Tryon St....

Wangapeka Leslie Karamea Tracks

After tackling the Heaphy north to south, you can return to Golden Bay via the more scenic (though harder) Wangapeka Track. It's not as well known as the Heaphy, but many consider the Wangapeka a more enjoyable walk. Taking about five days, the track starts 25km south of Karamea at Little Wanganui, running 52km east to Rolling River near Tapawera. There's a chain of huts along the track. The 91km Leslie-Karamea Track is a medium-to-hard tramp of five to seven days, connecting the Cobb Valley...

Travel Literature

Given NZ's starring role on the world tourism stage, the current bloom in dedicated NZ travel literature isn't surprising. The country's ability to inspire its explorers (at home and overseas - RIP Sir Edmund Hillary) is obvious in most published accounts of NZ wanderings. 'Don't leave home until you've seen the country' is something most Kiwis hear when planning their big 'OE' (Overseas Experience). Taking this advice, Bob Moore, a Wellington-based Englishman, traversed every kilometre of...

Sights Activities

The Edwin Fox is purportedly the world's ninth-oldest wooden ship (who counts these things ). Built of teak in Bengal, the 48m, 760-ton vessel was launched in 1853. During its chequered career it carried troops to the Crimean War, convicts to Australia and immigrants to NZ. The Edwin Fox Maritime Centre ( 03-573 6868 www.nzmaritime.co.nz edwinfox.htm Dunbar Wharf adult child 8 2.50 S 9am-5pm) has maritime exhibits including the decrepit ship, which is being chemically restored. Next door is the...

Haast to Jackson Bay Cascade River

From Haast Junction a side road heads to Jackson Bay with numerous wilderness walks along the way. Near Okuru is the Hapuka Estuary Walk (20 minutes return), an information-packed boardwalk loop winding its way through a sleepy whitebait sanctuary. After crossing Arawhata Bridge, turn onto the narrow, unsealed road along the Jackson River to Martyr Saddle, with views of the Cascade River Valley and the incredible Red Hills. Their ruddy hues are due to high magnesium and iron concentrations....

Glaciers For Dummies

During the last ice age (15,000 to 20,000 years ago) the Franz Josef and sea in the ensuing thaw they may have crawled back further than the 14th century a mini ice age descended and for centuries the glaciers greatest extent around 1750. The terminal moraines from this time a the West Coast's twin glaciers have both ebbed and advanced on a cy it's estimated the Franz Josef glacier has actually advanced by up to 7 If you get rained in during your time in glacier country, here are a f tion...

Arthurs Pass

Arthur's Pass village is 4km from the pass of the same name and is NZ's highest-altitude settlement. The 924m pass was used by Maoris to reach Westland, but its European discovery was made by Arthur Dobson in 1864, when the Westland gold rush created the need for a crossing over the Southern Alps from Christchurch. A coach road was completed within a year, but later on the coal and timber trade demanded a railway, duly completed in 1923. The town is a handy base for tramps, climbs, views and...

Paddling The Abel Tasman

The Abel Tasman Coast Track has long been trampers' territory, but its main attractions -scenic beaches, isolated coves and rock formations - make it an equally seductive spot for sea kayaking. Many travellers choose to kayak around at least part of the national park, cruising the safe, sheltered waters and calling in at those impossibly pretty beaches. You can easily combine kayaking, walking and camping. It needn't necessarily be a matter of hiring a kayak then looking after yourself from...

Gisborne To Hawkes

Heading south towards Napier you're confronted with a choice follow SH2 along the coast or take SH36 inland through Tiniroto. Either way you'll end up in Wairoa. The coastal route is the better choice, but SH36 is also a pleasant drive. Doneraille Park, 49km from Gisborne, is a peaceable bush reserve with a frigid mountain river to jump into. Freedom Camping is permitted (p368). The snow-white cascades of Te Reinga Falls, 18km further south, are worth a short detour. SH2 runs a few kilometres...

Whitebait Fever

Author of The Bone People Keri Hulme once opined, 'I'm not particularly serious about anything except whitebaiting'. Okarito's most famous resident recluse may have been commenting on behalf of the entire West Coast, because from September to mid-November, the region's rivers and marine estuaries are crowded with fisherfolk of all ages keen to net a few precious kilos of the immature stage of the inanga (river smelt). Catches in recent years have been lower than normal, and in 2007 prices for...

Whitewater Rafting Kayaking

There are almost as many white-water rafting possibilities as there are rivers in the country, and there's no shortage of companies to get you into the rapids. Popular South Island rafting rivers include the Shotover and Kawarau Rivers near Queenstown, while the Rangitata River (south of Christchurch) is considered one of the country's best. The northern end of the island also has great rafting options, including the Buller River near Murchison and Karamea River near Westport. Other West Coast...

South To Haast

About 26km south of Fox Glacier, along SH6, the Copland Valley is the western end of the Copland Track three days one-way . Challenging and spectacular, the walk is usually tackled east to west starting from Mt Cook , but from SH6 you can still do a six- to seven-hour walk up Copland Valley to overnight at the Welcome Flat DOC Hut 15 , where thermal springs bubble. Backcountry Hut Passes don't apply here, but you can buy tickets at any West Coast DOC office or visitor information centre....

Whanganui River Road

Book the following places in advance - no-one's going to turn you away, but they appreciate a bit of warning There's no mobile-phone coverage along the road, and no petrol or shops. There are a couple of takeaway food vans in Pipiriki open during summer. From south to north, accommodation includes Rivertime Lodge Map p271 06-342 5595 www .rivertimelodge.co.nz Whanganui River Rd d self-catering incl breakfast 110 130 A rural idyll hills folding down towards the river and the intermittent...

Sleeping Eating

Waipoua Lodge B amp B 09-439 0422 www.waipoua lodge.co.nz SH12 r 540-570 This fine old villa at the southern edge of the forest has four luxurious, spacious suites, which were originally the stables, the woolshed and the calf-rearing pen Prices include breakfast, and decadent dinners 90 are available. mains 8-14 S9am-4p Hokianga's hippie music's pretty goo and craft shop se former cheese fac the forest. The 450-hectare ' an easy half-houi the picnic area by a beautiful forest kauri stands, a...

Underground

Legendary Black Water Rafting Company 0800 228 464 585 Waitomo Caves Rd www.blackwaterrafting .co.nz can afford to skite as they invented black-water rafting. Black Labyrinth three hours, 95 involves floating in a wetsuit on an inner tube down a river that flows through Ruakuri Cave. The highlight is leaping off a small waterfall and then floating through a long, glowworm-covered passage. The trip ends with showers, soup and bagels in the caf . Black Abyss five hours, 185 is more adventurous...

Oamaru To Du

It's 114km along Dunedin and all t open-road speed . the way. There ar places to stay alon alone justify spen row, ocean-hugg from Oamaru pro and has some gor Wharfe St out of for Kakanui . About 5km soi Backpackers 03 Beach Rd dm s d 30 43, signed, with room which encourages Close enough to t night, this is a plac huge bank of wind to the sea, and get A number of read highlight of their i Also near the be Coastal Backpackers packers.co.nz Waianakar contained d 75 S close and good swimmi find...

AIR

Palmerston North International Airport PMR 06-351 4415 www.pnairport.co.nz Airport Dr , 4km north of the town centre, is proud of its international status. International passengers pay a 25 departure tax domestically there's a 5 development levy. Air New Zealand 06-351 8800 www.airnz.co.nz 366 Church St S 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-12.30pm Sat runs daily direct flights to Auckland from 89 , Christchurch from 109 , Wellington from 69 and Hamilton from 89 . OzJet 06-351 4415 www.ozjet.com.au has...

Wwoofing

If you don't mind getting your hands dirty, an economical way of travelling around NZ involves doing some voluntary work as a member of Willing Workers on Organic Farms WW00F 03-544 9890 www.wwoof.co.nz P0 Box 1172, Nelson 7040 . Membership of this popular, well-established international organisation which has representatives in Africa, Asia, North America, Europe and Australia scores you a book listing many hundreds of organic and permaculture farms, market gardens and other environmentally...

Best Wine Design

Slick contemporary or traditional Euro architecture and Marlborough w rather, glass-in-hand . Our five favourite winery designs Cloudy Bay Nothing special from the outside it looks like a high scl tasting room Polished concrete and blonde-wood panelling, with ai window wall behind the counter allowing you to peer into the Chan Highfield Estate Try to suspend disbelief when you first see Highfie on a hill, faithfully mimicking the turrets and arches of Cafaggiulo C top of the tower and survey...

Ngawha Springs

Near Kaikohe, these hot springs have been used by Ngapuhi for their curative powers since the 17th century. Hone Heke brought his injured warriors here during the Northland War. Unlike many of NZ's thermal resorts, there are no hydroslides or big pools for the kids to splash about in. There aren't even any showers. Here it's all about stewing in the murky water in small pools of varying temperatures. Ngawha has two complexes next to each other, the better of which is Ngawha Springs Pools 09-405...

Ngati Tarara

As you're travelling around the north you might notice the preponderance of road names ending in '-ich'. Haere mai, dobro dosli and welcome as the sign leading into Kaitaia proclaims to one of the more peculiar ethnic conjunctions in the country. From the end of the 19th century, men from the Dalmatian coast of Croatia started arriving in NZ looking for work. Many ended up in Northland's gum fields. Pakeha society wasn't particularly welcoming to the new immigrants, particularly during WWI -...

Omarama

At the head of the Waitaki Valley, surrounded by mountain ranges, the Omarama area is at the centre of fabulous landscapes. The bizarre moonscape of the Clay Cliffs admission 5 is the result of two million years of erosion on layers of silt and gravel that were exposed along the active Osler fault line. The cliffs are on private land the turn-off is 3.5km north of Omarama, then it's another 10km on unsealed road. See where the wool in your fancy new Icebreaker top came from. Wrinkly Rams 03438...

Karekare

Few stretches of sand have more personality than Karekare. Those prone to metaphysical musings inevitably settle on descriptions such as 'spiritual' and 'brooding'. Perhaps history has left its imprint in 1825 it was the site of a ruthless massacre of the local Kawerau iwi by Ngapuhi invaders. Wild and gorgeously undeveloped, this famous beach has been the setting for onscreen moments both high- and lowbrow, from Oscar-winner The Piano to Xena, Warrior Princess. From the car park the quickest...

Mahurangi Scandrett Regional Parks

Straddling the head of Mahurangi Harbour, this boaties paradise has three distinct fingers Mahurangi West, accessed from a turnoff 3km north of Puhoi Scott Point on the eastern side, with road access 16km southeast of Warkworth and isolated Mahurangi East, which can only be reached by boat. The park incorporates areas of coastal forest, pa sites and a historic homestead and cemetery. Its sheltered beaches offer prime sandy spots for a dip or picnic and there are loop walks ranging from 1 amp to...