Eddy Monetti Neapolitan Tailors

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SHOPPING STRIPS

Via Toledo (Map pp280-1) Head to the pedestrianised southern end, with its slick boutiques, sfogliatella (cinnamon-infused ricotta in a puff-pastry shell) stalls, street artists and dressed-to-impress strollers.

Via dei Tribunali (Map pp280-1)

Ifs just a few hundred metres but the stretch

EDDY MONETTI MEN'S STORE

MAP PP284-5 BOUTIQUE

@ 081 40 70 64;Via dei Mille 45; 0 C25 to Piazza dei Martiri

The menswear branch of Eddy Monetti is an elegant den of Burberry blazers, Ralph Lauren shirts and Irresistible cashmere sweaters. The vibe here Is monled and the service suitably snooty.

FELTRINELLI MAP PP284-5 BOOKS&MUSIC I® 081 240 5411; Piazza dei Martiri; S 10am-9pm Mon-Thu, 10am-10pm Fri, lOam-llpm Sat, 10am-2pm &4-10pm Sun; 0 C25 to Piazza dei Martiri

Three floors of books, CDs, videos, DVDs, and a box office to boot. Locals love coming here to browse, hang out or sip espresso at the downstairs café. There's a fair-sized English-language section, Including novels and the latest titles on Neapolitan culture and history.

JOSSA MAP PP284-5 MENSWEAR & SHOES

@ 081 39 92 23; Via Carlo Poerio 43; 0 C25 to Riviera di Chiaia

There's nothing restrained about the ultracool menswear collection here: paint-splashed denim, hot-pink shirts, striped pastel knitwear and sexy pinstriped suits. Match It all up with hip footwear from Pantofola d'Oro, Carshoe and Abercromble & Fitch.

between Piazza San Gaetano and Via Atri is an electric combo of old-school delis, grocery shops, much-loved restaurants and a nativity-scene tailor.

Via Chiaia (Map pp278-9) This savvy strip tempts with cute boutiques, sharp designer outfits, sassy shoes, fancy accessories and sleek, gleaming homewares.

Via San GregorioArmeno (Map pp280—1) Vintage artisan studios and shops burstwith the best and the kitschiest of Neapolitan presepe (nativity scene) figurines (see p140).

Via Calabritto (Map pp284—5) Rodeo Drive, Napoli-style. Polish that gold Amex and hit the cobbled pavement for A-list fashion from Armani to Zegna. Window-shopping doesn't get any better than this.

products, a fashionable florist, a sassy bar/ restaurant and a fabulous day spa complete with glam hammam (communal bathhouse). Shop for silk slippers, sip a Campari, then get horizontal for a spot of shlatsu.

DELIBERTI MAP PP284-5 SHOES

SS 081 41 60 64; Via Chiaia 10; 0 C25 to Piazza dei Martiri

The place to replenish your designer trainer range. Brands Include Helmut Lang, Puma, Blkkemberg and Adidas. Keep an eye out for a small, dangerous-looking range of leopard-print stilettos by Casadel. Sales are common.

EDDY MONETTI MAP PP284-5 BOUTIQUE SS 08140 32 29; Piazzetta Santa Caterina; 0 C25 to Piazza dei Martiri

Neapolitan style queens head here for exquisitely cut jackets, skirts and trousers, and fabulous leather handbags. Think Vogue-meets-Harpers Bazaar, with labels Including Etro, Blumarlne, Malo and Cuclnelll. Prices start at around €250 for separates.

INTERFOOD MAP PP284-5 WINE

@ 081 764 97 92; Via Santa Luaa 6-10; 0 C25 to Via Partenope

This little enoteca (wine bar) In Santa Lucia stocks mainly Campanlan vino, a rising star on the Italian wine scene. Among the better producers, look for Cantlna del Taburno or Ocone or D'Ambra for reds, and Falanghlna or Coda de Volpe for whites. Good deals Include three bottles of reasonable wine for€15 or less.

LIVIO DE SIMONE MAP PP284-5 BOUTIQUE @ 081 764 38 27; Via Domenico Morelli 15; 0 C25 to Piazza dei Martiri

The late LIvIo de Slmone dressed the likes of Audrey Hepburn and Jacqul O. Today his wife and daughter keep the vision alive with bold hand-printed robe chemisiers (shirt dresses) and matching purses, bags, and shoes -think Capri with a Japanese twist. A second shop at Vlco Satrlano 3A stocks vintage LIvIo de Slmone pieces for serious (and seriously moneyed) fashlonlstas.

Milan may be the hyped-up face of Italian style, but Naples is its heart and soul. The city's bespoke tailors are legendary, and once drew the likes of early 20th-century Italian king Emmanuel III to their needles and threads. In fact, Naples' ateliers are regarded as clubs or meeting places for debonair Neapolitan gentlemen, who talk fashion, style and cut. Today, Mariano Rubinacci suits, Borrelli and Finamore shirts and Marinella ties are male fashionista must-haves from Tokyo to Turin.

The key to this success is traditional, handmade production, superlative fabrics and minute attention to detail and form. Suitwise, the look is more bratpack than powerbroker - think slim-fit flexible cut, natural and unengineered shoulders (great for gesticulating), high-set arm holes and the signature barchetta (little boat) breast pocket. The style itself evolved from the Savile Row suits popular in the 1920s. Local tailors began loosening the rigid Anglo cut, ditching theshoulderpadsand reducing canvasand paddingfora look more suitable for languid Neapolitan lounging.

A classic Neapolitan shirt will often feature fine Italian, Swiss or Irish cottons, hand-stitched collar, yolk and sleeve, hand-sewn button holes and gathered pleating at the shoulder.

While most of the boutiques offer/;ref-o-/)ortfrthreads and accessories (including ready-made suits), creating a shirt or suit from scratch will usually involve a couple of fittings and anything from three to eight weeks. Finished items can be sh ipped to you overseas.

Credit card at the ready, now that you're clued up hit these local legends for a Neapolitan revamp: Mariano Rubinaca (Map pp284-5; @ 081 41 57 93; www.marianorubinacci.it; Via Filangieri 26) Beautiful, lightweight and precisely fitting suits from the granddaddy of Neapolitan tailoring. Former clients include Neapolitan film director Vittorio de Sica and playwright Eduardode Filippo.

Cesare Attolini (Map pp284-5; @ 081 42 68 26; www.cesareattolini.it; Vico Vetriera 12) Cesare Attolini and his two stylish sons offer three lines of got-to-have suits: Cesare Attolini forfully handmade bespoke tailoring, Sartoria Attolini for fully handmade ready-to-wear suits and Sartoria for hand-finished suits for younger style-gurus. Borrelli (Map pp284-5; @ 081 423 82 73; www.luigiborrelli.com; Via Filangieri 68; 0 C25 to Piazza dei Martiri) The look is classic preppy with a funked-up twist-think pastel blazers, chequered suits and striped blood-orange cashmere sweaters. Debonair, but always respectable.

Finamore (Map pp284-5; @ 081 246 18 27; www.finamore.it in Italian; Via Calabritto 16) Ready-to-wear (€160 to €250) and bespoke (€90 upwards) shirts in delectable shades such as royal blue, pastel pink and citrus green. Shirts are entirely hand sewn and there are ties and scarves to match.

Marinella (Map pp284-5; @ 081 245 11 82; Piazza Vittoria 287) One-time favourite of Luchino Visconti, Aristotle Onassis and Gianni Agnelli, this is the place forpret-a-porterani made-to-measure ties. Match them with an irresistible selection of luxury accessories, including shoes, shirts, sweaters and vintage colognes.

Anna Matuozzo(Map pp284-5; @ 081 663874;www.annamatuozzo.it;VialeAntonioGramsci26)Thesoftlyspoken SignoraMatuozzo was once the apprentice of Mariano Rubinacci. Nowthesignoraand herdaughtersarefamedfortheir bespoke shirts, which feature mother-of-pearl buttons and vintage hand stitching. Silk ties in colour combinations such as fuchsia and baby blue complete the elegant look. Call in advance to make an appointment for a fitting.

NAPLES BEST BUYS

Books and Music Fe It ri n ell i (p142) Chocolate Gay-Odin (p139) Christmas cribs Giuseppe Ferrigno (p140) Funky homewares OK-KO Research (below) Jewellery Contemporastudio (p141) Mozzarella Antiche Delizie (pi41) Vintage prints Bowinkel (pi41) Shoes Antonio Barbara (p141) Ties Marinella (pi43)

OK-KO RESEARCH MAP PP284-5 NOVELTIES N 081 40 01 77; Via Cavalerizza a Chiaia 63; O C25 to Piazza dei Martiri

The ironic shop here for Andy Warhol light boxes, lurid plastic chairs, Dutch designer clocks, chill-out compilation CDs and fluoro-coloured handbags in the shape of watering cans. The counter doubles as a deck foi the in-house DJ and aperitivo (aperitif) is served upstairs in the winter.

TABACCHERIA SISIMBRO MAP PP284-5 CIGARS

@ 08140 69 83; Via San Pasquale a Chiaia 74-76; ® Amedeo

This tern pie to tobacco stocks hard-to-find cigarettes (including Dun hill, Dupont and Cartier varieties) as well as decadent Cuban cigars, which are maintained at optimum temperature in a special humidified walk-in room. A range of Italian pipes, cigar cutters, lighters and ashtrays complete the smoky picture.

VERDEGRANO MAP PP284-5 HOMEWARES @ 08140 17 54; Via Santa Teresa a Chiaia 17; SlOam-1 pm & 5-7pm, dosed Mon morning&Sun in winter, closed Sat afternoon&Sun summer; ® Amedeo

Come here for exquisitely patterned, hand-painted porcelain pots, vases, plates and decorative items. Prices are reasonable and there are some easy-to-pack smaller pieces for the trip home. It's a small and tightly packed space so children (and the clumsy) are better off outside.

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