Most of the big clubs are out of town and out of reach of public transport. Central clubs tend to be small and eclectic, from cavernous reggae boltholes to galleries-cum-discos.

Venues usually open at 10.30pm or 11pm but don't fill up until after midnight. Many clubs close in summer (July to September), some transferring themselves to out-of-town beach locations (see the boxed text, pl32).

Admission charges vary, but expect to pay between €5 and €25, which may or may not include a drink.

The student-dense centro storico and yuppie-centric Chiaia are clubbing hot spots. Pick up a free copy of mini-mag Zero in bars and for up-to-date listings.

DEPOT CRUISING BAR @ 081 780 95 78;; £3 10pm-3amTue-Thu, 10pm-6am Fri&Sat, 8pm-3amSun;Via della Veterinaria 72; admission €10; 0 C55 to Albergo dei Poveri

This gay playpen attracts men with one thing on their mind, and it's not Kylie - think skin flicks, cruising maze and dark private cabins.

Check the website for themed leather, uniform and naked nights. The club is located just off edgy Piazza Carlo III, so catch a cab home.

FREELOVERS @ EDENLANDIA MAP P287 @ 328 307 11 05;; Viale Kennedy 76; E3 12.30am-lateSatJun-Sep;admission €12; S) Cumana to Edenlandia

Set in a Disney-style theme park, this is a queer summertime favourite. Groove under the stars beside a fairytale castle or crash into a cutie on the dodgem cars. Music is pop-ish and the vibe is fun. You'll need a taxi to get back into town.

FREEZER MAP PP278-9 @ 081 750 24 37;; Via F Lauria 6, Centro Direzionale, Isola G6; E3 11pm-3am Sat & Sun Sep-Jul; admission €13; ® Garibaldi

Blue neon and acid-green walls set the postmodern scene at this Berlin-style bolthole. Dressed to kill in latex and plastic creations, a mixed crowd of extravagant clubbers hits the floor for high-octane house and electrónica.

LAMELA MAP PP284-5 @ 081 41 02 70; Via dei Mille40/bis; £3 Thu-Sat; 0C25 to Riviera di Chiaia

Chiaia's 30-something 'It' crowd saunters here for civilised clubbing after drinks at Farinella (opposite). DJs spin mainstream sounds and the look is über-chic. Dress to impress or face rejection at the door.

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