Just beyond Erchie and its beautiful beach (look for the mass of scooters parked by the side of the road), Cetara is a picturesque tumbledown fishing village with a reputation as a gastronomic hot spot. Since medieval times it has been an important fishing centre and still today its deep-sea tuna fleet is considered one of the Mediterranean's most important. At night, fishermen set out in small boats (known as lampare) armed with powerful lamps to fish for anchovies. Recently, locals have resurrected the production of what is known as colatura di alici, a strong anchovy essence believed to be the descendant of garum, the Roman fish-seasoning. Each year, in late July or early August, the village pays homage to its main meal tickets in the sagra del tonno, a festival dedicated to tuna and anchovies. Further details are available from the tiny tourist office ( @ 328 015 63 47; Piazza San Francesco 15; £3 9am-1pm &5pm-midnight).

To take a taste of Cetara home with you, there's a fine selection of preserved goodies at Sapori Cetaresi ( @ 089 26 20 10; Corso Garibaldi 44; £3 lOam-lpm & 4-10pm daily May-Sep, closes 8pm & Mon Oct-Apr) by the small beach.


SS 089 26 10 39; Piazza San Francesco 16; meal around €20, taster menu €26; £3 daily mid-May-Sep, dosed Wed Oct-mid-May

For the money, you probably won't eat better anywhere else on the coast. With tables set on a lovely shaded terrace above Cetara's main street, this Is an excellent spot to tuck into local fish specialities. You can eat tuna as an antlpasto, served smoked with sword-fish, or lightly grilled as a main course, and anchovies prepared In various ways. Particularly delicious Is the spaghetti con alici e finocchietto selavatrico (spaghetti with anchovies and wild fennel). Fish, fortunately, doesn't feature among the desserts. Instead, you could try classic chocolate cake with licotta and cream.

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