South Africa

TO/FROM NELSPRUIT & JOHANNESBURG Bus & Chapa

There are daily minibuses and chapas to Maputo from Ressano Garcia (LTS$3.50, two hours, 120km), Nelspruit (US$10, three hours, 230km) and on to Johannesburg (nine hours, 590km), with the best connections in the early morning. Much better is to use one of the large 'luxury' buses that do the route daily (LTS$30 to LTS$38 one-way, eight to nine hours), listed on p69. All lines also service Pretoria. You can also travel in each direction on the following lines between Maputo and Nelspruit but not between Nelspruit and Johannesburg. Organise your Mozambique visa in advance, as lines are long at Ressano Garcia and most buses won't wait. The following phone numbers are all dialled within South Africa: Greyhound (§§ 011-276 8500; www.greyhound.co.za) Daily from Johannesburg's Park City Station at 6.45am and from Maputo at 7.30am.

InterCape Mainliner (§ 021-380 4400; www.inter

cape.co.za) Daily from Johannesburg's Park City Station at

8am and from Maputo at 7.45am.

Panthera Azul (§ 011-618 8811/3; www.pantherazul

.co.za) Daily from Johannesburg (34 Bezuidenhout Ave,

Troyville) at 7am; from Maputo at 6.45am Monday,

Wednesday and Friday, at 4am on Tuesday, Thursday and

Saturday, and at 7am on Sunday.

Translux (§§ 011-774 3333; www.translux.co.za) Daily from Johannesburg at 8.45am; from Maputo at 7.45am.

There's a good road connecting Maputo with Johannesburg via Ressano Garcia, with tolls in Mozambique at Matola and Moamba, and in South Africa between Middelburg and Wit-bank, at Machadadorp, and west of Malelane.

Train

South Africa's Komati line (§ 011-774 4555; www .spoornet.co.za) travels between Johannesburg and the Komatipoort border post daily (13 hours). Once across, it's possible in theory to continue to Maputo by rail. However, service in Mozambique is slow and connections times often don't coincide, so it's much faster to take a chapa. If you decide to stick with the rails, see p70 for schedules and fares between Ressano Garcia and Maputo.

TO/FROM KRUGER NATIONAL PARK

There are two border points between Mozambique and South Africa's Kruger park, neither accessible via public transport and both requiring 4WD on the Mozambique side.

Giriyondo sees a small but steady stream of 4WD adventurers looking for an alternate route to the Mozambican coast. See p84 for more on this crossing.

Pafuri can be used to access the rough tracks across Gaza and Inhambane provinces to Mapinhane (at the junction with the EN1) and the coast, or to go southeast into Parque Nacional do Limpopo, or towards Chokwe and the EN1 - all 4WD territory. There's also a 4 WD track sponsored by San parks (www .sanparks.org) and Parque Nacional do Limpopo (www .dollmpopo.com) that uses this crossing. The Rio Limpopo is unbridged and crossable only in the dry season. Mozambique visas are not issued at Pafuri, so arrange one in advance. There are no fuel points anywhere along the route to Vilankulo until the EN1.

OTHER ROUTES

Between Durban and Maputo, Panthera Azul (@ in Durban 031-309 7798) has buses via Namaacha and Big Bend in Swaziland (US$35,8V2 hours) departing Maputo at 7am Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, and Durban at 7am Wednesday, Friday and Sunday.

For travel via the Kosi Bay border post, see p79.

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