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Nestled among lusciously green hills on the western shore of serene Laguna Catemaco, this small town famous for witchcraft (see boxed text, p707) makes its living from fishing and Mexican tourism. During vacations and holidays, prepare for crowds and fiestas. During the low seasons, when hotels are a third cheaper, Catemaco turns into a charming lakeside town, its precious zócalo trimmed with intricate white wrought iron and scenic malecón festooned with colorful, weather-worn boats. By the water, the lancheros insistently vie for your business, which can be annoying. This is a great place to use a base for visiting beaches, waterfalls and lagoons in the Los Tuxtlas Biosphere Reserve and beyond.

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