The tourist office publishes the free monthly L'Agenda guide to exhibitions and cultural events. Monthly So Aware and Le Bizz, out every two months, are tap-ins to the club scene and nightlife - tame in town but sizzling hot on the coast in trendy Torreilles (p219).

Cinéma Castillet ( % 08 92 68 01 29; 1 blvd Wilson) This magnificent movie palace (1911) with exuberant neobaroque facade and lateral walls punctuated with Art Nouveau stained glass and sculptured ceramic is a sight to behold.

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