Le Petit Moka (place Hôtel de Ville) This place serves excellent coffee. Sip your choice on its terrace, from which you can contemplate Viollet-le-Duc's contentious remodelling of the town hall's facade.

Private Bowling Pub ( S 6pm-2am Mon-Fri, 2pm-2am Sat, Sun & school holidays) Out at Espace de Liberté (p119), this pub is far from private. It's a congenial, authentic place with six beers on draught, more than 50 in the bottle and at least a dozen varieties of whisky behind the bar.

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