Sleeping Eating

Greenside Villa Inn (§ 954-3127, 865-6894; studios USS34-40, plus each additional person US$6) This inn is about 3km west of Falmouth and features studio apartments. The rooms are simple but spacious and clean and have private bathrooms and ceiling fans. The units with kitchenettes have small gas stoves. Meals are cooked on request.

Falmouth Resort (§ 954-3391; 22 Newton St; r US$35; (P) (S)) The only accommodation in the center of town. If you want to get a feel for bustling Jamaican downtown life, this is a good option. It's not really a resort in the classic sense, but it does have 12 clean, modest rooms with private bathrooms and cable TV, and welcoming, helpful staff. Meals are prepared on request. Take an upstairs room for privacy and a view.

Golden Pagoda (§ 617-5482; 24 Duke St; mains US$3-7; S lunch & dinner) On the main road west of Water Sq, Golden Pagoda serves inexpensive Chinese and is a good place for people-watching.

Peter's Highway Bar (§ 836-8872; mains US$4-6; S lunch & dinner) On the Al heading east out of town, an airy roadside rum dispen sary and kitchen that doles out good jerk chicken and pork. Welcoming travelers are the flags of many nations hand-painted on the walls, along with a proverb 'Who God Bless No Man Curse' above the image of Bob Marley.

Irie Life (§ 454-3094; 2-4 Tharpe St; mains USS4-7; S8am-6pm Mon-Thu, 7am-4pm Fri) A good choice of vegetarian and seafood dishes as well as natural juices.

de Nest Lounge (§ 617-5308; Tharpe St; S 4pm-dose) An engaging watering hole next to Irie Life, this is a comfortable air-conditioned pub and disco that occasionally stages live acts.

Spicy Nice Bakery (@ 954-3197; WaterSq) Spice is nice at this bakery, where you can buy fresh baked breads, pastries and spicy meat and vegetable patties.

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