Antiques and collectibles

Antiques hounds should make a beeline for Via dei Coronari, Rome's main artery for antiquar-iato. The jumbled assortment of marbles at Marmi Line includes some remarkably faithful copies of Roman portrait busts, fountains, and a whole lot of pointless "accent pieces" that might have been lifted from the set ofAll My Children. W Apolloni, specializing in silver and 17th-century furniture, is one of Rome's best-known antiques stores. If you're looking for collectibles from the 20th century or Art Deco furnishings, seek out Comics Bazar. Of course, if you have a good eye for antiques and are willing to battle crowds, your best bet may be to head for one of the flea markets like Porta Portese (see above).

Book it, baby... Maybe you need a trashy novel to offset all the heavy culture Rome throws at you, or maybe you feel like boning up on your Inferno— whatever your pleasure, the city has English-language booksellers for all tastes. The Roman flagship of Italian bookstore chain Feltrinelli is a multimedia megastore that occupies an entire palazzo on Largo Argentina. Opened in 2003, the store carries mostly Italian-language books, but there's a decent-sized international section, with some specialized books in

English about Roman tourism, as well as CD listening stations and a cafe where readings are sometimes held. Fel-trinelli International, near Piazza della Repubblica, has a much larger selection of foreign-language titles. For a university-quality array of books on Italian art and architecture (as well as physics and horticulture), head for Anglo-American Book, near the Spanish Steps, which also has plenty of paperback "vacation novels" from which to choose. Every nook and cranny of the tiny English-language Almost Corner Bookshop, in Trastevere, is crammed with all genres of literature, from ancient erotica anthologies to Mussolini biographies. They also stock bestsellers, but the expat lit snobs who run the place will treat you like a second-class citizen if all you buy is Angels and Demons.

Vatican chic... The Rodeo Drive of religious articles is Via de' Cestari, a small street near the Pantheon with nearly a dozen shops selling everything you need to hold your own liturgical services, whether you're in the market for a new embroidered cassock or a jewel-encrusted communion goblet. Cardinals go to Ghezzi for robes and socks in more colors than there are in Tom Ridge's terrorism alert chart. De Ritis has made-to-order vestments and casual wear for priests, as well as a line of haute habits and sleepwear for the fashion-conscious lady of the cloth. Despite its understated storefront, Gammarelli is no stranger to flashy ceremonial garb—the family has been the personal tailor to the pope for over a century. Pilgrims near the Vatican should peruse the wares of Comandini, where Shroud-of-Turin holograms, lighters with the likenesses of famous saints, or Padre Pio playing cards are just a few of the classy items on offer.

Map 13: Spanish Steps & Piazza Del Popolo Shopping

Palazzo Frescobaldi Vintage Map

Alberta Ferretti 25

Energie 2

Missoni 21

Anglo-American Bookshop 34

ErmenegildoZegna 28

Miss Sixty 10

Bottega Veneta 6

Fendi 5

Modigliani 26

Brioni 36

Fornarina 23

Murphy&Nye 3

Brooks 12

Franco Maria Ricci 31

Onyx 11

Bruno Magli 30

Furla 19

Prada 22

Buccone 1

Gente 15

Roberto Cavalli 32

Cesare Paciotti 24

Gucci 29

Sermoneta 33

David Saddler 13

Jam Store 7

Sportstaff 20

Diesel 9

La Rinascente 8

Underground 35

Dolce&Gabbana 18

Mario Lucchesi 14

Valentino 27

Eleonora 16

Mercato delle Stampe 4

W Apolloni 17

Map 14: Campo De' Fiori & Piazza Navona Shopping

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MAP AREA

ANCIENT TRASTEVERE ROME

Al Sogno 2 Campo de' Fiori 5 Campo de' Fiori 52 Citta del Sole 3 Comics Bazar 4 Davide Cenci 17 Degli Effetti 16 De Ritis 13 Ethic 12 Feltrinelli 19

Gammarelli 14 Ghezzi 15 Loco 6 Marmi Line 1 Mr. Wine 18 Nuyorica 8 Pinko 10 Prototype 11 Sole 7 Stefanel 20

I The Index

Alberta Ferretti (p. 134) SPANISH STEPS Breezy and graceful alta moda. The designer's Philosophy line is also available here Tel 06/699-11-60. www.albertaferretti.com. Via Condotti 34, at Via Bocca di Leone. Metro Spagna. Mon-Sat 10am-7:30pm.

Almost Corner Bookshop (p. 143) TRASTEVERE Tiny English bookstore has an impressive array of fiction, poetry, history, and art books Tel 06/583-6942. Via del Moro 45, at Vicolo de' Renzi. Buses 23, 271, or 280. Tram 8. Mon-Sat 10am-1:30pm, 3:30-8pm; Sun 11am-1:30pm, 3:30-8pm.

Al Sogno (p. 140) PIAZZA NAVONA A world of plush stuffed animals, arranged in inventive layouts Tel 06/686-41-98. www. alsogno.com. Piazza Navona 53. Buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 81, 87, 116, or 492. Mon-Sat 10am-7:30pm.

Anglo-American Book (p. 143) SPANISH STEPS The premier Roman outlet for scholarly books in English; also has lighter, bestseller-type stuff Tel 06/679-5222. www.aab.it. Via della Vite 102, at Via Mario de' Fiori. Metro Spagna. Mon 3:30-7:30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7:30pm. Closed for 2 weeks in the middle of Aug.

Atelier Ritz (p. 141) PARIOLI/VILLA BORGHESE Monthly flea market featuring cast-off clothing and accessories from Rome's elite Tel 06/807-81-89. Via Frescobaldi 5 (Hotel Parco dei Prin-cipi). Buses 52, 53, or 910. Tram 3. Every other Sun only 10am-8pm.

Bata (p. 138) VIA NAZIONALE Inexpensive shoes for fashion-conscious men and women Tel 06/482-45-29. www.bata.com. Via Nazionale 88a, at Via Depretis. Buses 40, 60, 64, 70, 170, or H. Mon-Sat 10am-7:30pm.

Bottega Veneta (p. 139) SPANISH STEPS Leather goods and accessories for those who demand the very best Tel 06/ 6821-0024. www.bottegaveneta.com. Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina 9. Buses 62, 85, 95, 116, or 492. Mon-Sat 10am-7:30pm.

Brioni (p. 138) PIAZZA BARBERINI Classic suits, shirts, and accessories for men, plus expert tailoring Tel 06/484-517. www. brioni.it. Via Barberini 79, at Piazza Barberini. Metro Barberini. Mon-Sat 10am-7:30pm.

Brooks (p. 138) SPANISH STEPS Casual wear for the guy who forgot to pack his Gap T-shirt Via del Corso: Tel 06/361-43-72; www.brooks-ltd.it; Via del Corso 86, at Via Vittoria; Metro Spagna; Mon-Sat 10am-7:30pm. Via Cola di Rienzo: Tel 06/324-1894; Via Cola di Rienzo 241; buses 23, 81, or 492; tram 19 to Piazza Risorgimento/Via Cola di Rienzo; Mon-Sat 10am-7:30pm. Via dei Giubbonari: Tel 06/6830-7087; Via dei Giubbonari 69; buses 40, 62, 70, 87, 116, or 492 to Campo de' Fiori; Mon-Sat 10am-1:30pm, 3:30-8pm.

Bruno Magli (p. 137) SPANISH STEPS Loafers and dress shoes for Italian playboys Tel 06/6920-2264. www.brunomagli.it. Via Condotti 6, at Piazza di Spagna. Metro Spagna. Mon-Sat 10am-7:30pm.

Buccone (p. 141) PIAZZA DEL POPOLO Packed to the ceiling with wine from every region, extra-virgin olive oil, balsamic vinegar, and packaged foodstuffs Tel 06/361-21-54. Via di Ripetta 19-20, at Piazza del Popolo. Metro Flaminio. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 11am-7pm.

Campo de' Fiori (p. 133) CENTRO STORICO Famous produce market in the heart of the centro storico No telephone. Piazza Campo de' Fiori. Buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 87, 492, or 571. Tram 8. Mon-Sat roughly 6am-2pm.

Campo de' Fiori 52 (p. 137) CAMPO DE' FIORI Small but sophisticated selection of shoes and clothing for women Tel 06/ 687-5775. Piazza del Paradiso 72, at Via del Biscione. Buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 87, 492, or 571. Tram 8. Mon-Sat 10am-7:30pm.

Castel Romano Outlets (p. 135) OUTSIDE ROME Suburban outlet center opened in 2003, a bit of everything, from North Sails to

Versace Tel 06/5050050. Via Ponte di Piscina Cupa. Need own transportation. Daily 10am-7:30pm.

Castroni (p. 140) VATICAN Gourmet store with Italian goodies and hard-to-find international food items. A Roman institution Via Cola di Rienzo: Tel 06/687-43-83; www.castronigroup.it; Via Cola di Rienzo 196-198 (at Via Terenzio). Via Ottaviano: Tel 06/39723279; Via Ottaviano 55, at Via Germanico. Metro Ottaviano. Mon-Sat 8am-7:30pm.

Cesare Paciotti (p. 137) SPANISH STEPS Women's shoes with full-throttle sex appeal Tel 06/679-6245. www.cesare-paciotti.com. Via Bocca di Leone 92, at Via Borgognona. Metro Spagna. Mon-Sat 10am-7:30pm.

Citta del Sole (p. 140) PANTHEON A wonderland of creative toys for kids of all ages Tel 06/687-54-04. www.cittadelsole.it. Via della Scrofa 65. Buses 30, 70, 87, 116, or 492. Mon-Sat 10am-7:30pm; Sun 10am-1pm, 3:30-7pm.

Coin (p. 136) VATICAN AND SAN GIOVANNI Italy's biggest department-store chain. Good finds in the jewelry and accessories departments, but clothes are frumpissimo Via Cola di Rienzo: Tel 06/3600-4298; www.coin.it; Via Cola di Rienzo 173; Metro Ottaviano. Piazzale Appio: Tel 06/708-00-20; Piazzale Appio 7; Metro San Giovanni. Mon-Sat 9:30am-8pm.

Comandini (p. 143) VATICAN Kitschy papal souvenirs and gifts Tel 06/687-50-79. www.comandini.it. Borgo Pio 151. Metro Ottaviano. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm.

Comics Bazar (p. 142) CAMPO DE' FIORI Bawdy furniture from the 1700s, collectibles from the 1940s, and lots of other stuff from the years in between Tel 06/688-02-923. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 127. Buses 23, 40, 46, 62, 64, 116, 271, 280, or 571. Tues-Sat 10am-1pm; Mon-Sat 3:30-7:30pm.

Costantini (p. 141) VATICAN Wine emporium and tasting bar near Castel Sant'Angelo Tel 06/320-3575. www.pierocostantini.it. Piazza Cavour 16. Buses 70, 87, 280, or 492. Tues-Sat 9am-1pm; Mon-Sat 4:30-8pm.

Davide Cenci (p. 138) PANTHEON Made-to-order outfitter of men's shirts and suits since 1926. Women's shop has Pucci, Polo, and other classics Tel 06/699-06-81. www.davidecenci.com. Via

Campo Marzio 1-7. Buses 62, 85, 95, 116, or 492. Mon-Sat 10am-7:30pm.

David Saddler (p. 138) SPANISH STEPS Menswear chain with an especially nice selection of reasonably priced shirts; many larger sizes Tel 06/871-98-819. www.david-saddler.com. Via del Corso 103. Buses 62, 85, 95, 116, 175, or 492. Mon-Sat 10am-7:30pm.

Degli Effetti (p. 135) PANTHEON Hip boutique stocks clothes, bags, and shoes from Miu Miu, Jil Sander, and others

Tel 06/679-02-02. Piazza Capranica 93-94. Buses 62, 85, 95, 116, 175, or 492. Mon-Sat 10am-1:30pm, 3:30-7:30pm.

Del Frate (p. 141) VATICAN Friendly wine shop favored by the wealthy residents of Prati Tel 06/323-6497. Via degli Scipioni 118. Metro Ottaviano. Mon-Sat 9:30am-2pm, 4-8pm.

De Ritis (p. 143) PANTHEON Loads of liturgical items. But expect surly glances if you're not a man or woman of the cloth Tel 06/686-58-43. Via de' Cestari 48. Buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 87, 116, or 492. Mon-Fri 10am-1:30pm, 3:30-7pm.

Diesel (p. 138) SPANISH STEPS Jeans, street wear, and cheeky window displays Tel 06/678-66-41. www.diesel.com. Via del Corso 185. Buses 62, 85, 95, 116, 175, or 492. Mon-Sat 10am-7:30pm.

Dolce & Gabbana (p. 135) SPANISH STEPS Sexy couture from the Sicilian duo Tel 06/678-29-90. www.dolcegabbana.com. Via Condotti 51-52. Metro Spagna. Mon-Sat 10am-7:30pm.

Eleonora (p. 135) SPANISH STEPS Cutting-edge boutique with coffee bar and the latest fashions from under-the-radar designers like Alexander McQueen and John Galliano Tel 06/679-31-73.

www.eleonoraboutique.it. Via del Babuino 97. Metro Spagna. Mon-Sat 10am-7:30pm.

Energie (p. 138) PIAZZA DEL POPOLO Assorted urban street wear for teenage girls and boys Tel 06/687-12-58. Via del Corso 408-409. Metro Flaminio. Buses 62, 85, 95, 116, 119, or 492. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 10am-1:30pm, 3:30-8pm.

Ermenegildo Zegna (p. 138) SPANISH STEPS Master men's couture tailor. Easy urban suits to elegant tuxedos, plus a wide range of ties, belts, and casual wear Tel 06/678-91-43. www. zegna.com. Via Borgognona 7E. Metro Spagna. Mon-Sat 10am-7:30pm.

Ethic (p. 135) CAMPO DE' FIORI Funky, inexpensive duds that look like vintage Tel 06/68-30-10-63. www.ethic.it. Piazza Benedetto Cairoli 11-12. Buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 87, 492, or 571. Tram 8. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun noon-7pm.

Feltrinelli (p. 142) PANTHEON Megastore for books, CDs, and DVDs in the heart of the centro storico Tel 06/6866-3001. www.lafeltrinelli.it. Largo di Torre Argentina 11. Buses 30, 40, 62, 64, 70, 87, or 492. Tram 8. Mon-Thurs 9am-9pm; Fri-Sat 9am-11pm; Sun 10am-2pm, 4-8pm.

Feltrinelli International (p. 143) REPUBBLICA Polyglot branch of the national bookstore chain has a vast array of titles in English, Spanish, French, and German, as well as other languages Tel 06/482-7878. www.lafeltrinelli.it. Via V. E. Orlando 84-86, off Piazza della Repubblica. Metro Repubblica. Mon-Sat 9am-8pm; Sun 10am-1:30pm, 4-8pm. Closed Sun in Aug.

Fendi (p. 134) SPANISH STEPS In its smashing new world headquarters, now and forever the "it" brand for Rome's ladies who power-lunch Tel 06/679-76-41. www.fendi.com. Largo Goldoni. Metro Spagna. Mon-Sat 10am-7:30pm.

Fornarina (p. 138) SPANISH STEPS/VATICAN Teen clothing label with cute shoes for women, too Via Condotti: Tel 06/6790862; www.fornarina.com; Via Condotti 36; Metro Spagna. Via Cola di Rienzo: Tel 800/050-366 (within Italy only); Via Cola di Rienzo 117; Metro Ottaviano; Buses 23, 70, 81, 280, or 492. Mon-Sat 10am-7:30pm.

Franco Maria Ricci (p. 136) SPANISH STEPS Publisher of exquisite, old-fashioned-looking coffee table books on art and architecture Tel 06/679-3466. Via Borgognona 4D, at Piazza di Spagna. Metro Spagna. Mon 3-7:30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-1:30pm, 3:30-7:30pm.

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Fuori Orario (p. 139) TRASTEVERE Colorful, affordable leather jackets, plus funky Euro wear Tel 06/581-71-81. Via del Moro 29.

Buses 23, 115, 271, or 280. Tram 8. Mon 4-7:30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-1:30pm, 4-7:30pm.

Furla (p. 139) SPANISH STEPS Ladylike handbags and accessories with clean design Via del Corso: Tel 06/36003619; www. furla.com; Via del Corso 481; Metro Spagna. Piazza di Spagna: Tel 06/69200363; Piazza di Spagna 22. Via Dei Condotti: Tel 06/ 6791973; Via Dei Condotti 55-56. Branches all over. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm.

Gammarelli (p. 143) PANTHEON Religious outfitter, known to many as the "pope's tailor" No telephone. Via di Santa Chiara 34, at Via dei Cestari. Buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 87, 116, 492, or 571. Mon-Fri 10am-1:30pm, 3:30-7pm.

Gente (p. 135) SPANISH STEPS From denim to dresses, an up-to-date selection from a variety of alta moda designers Tel 06/ 320-76-71. Via del Babuino 81. Metro Spagna. Mon-Sat 10am-7:30pm.

Ghezzi (p. 143) PANTHEON Clothing and colorful hosiery for Rome's ecclesiastical community Tel 06/686-97-44. Via de' Cestari 32-33. Buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 87, 116, 492, or 571. Mon-Fri 10am-1pm, 4-7pm.

Gucci (p. 133) SPANISH STEPS Still sexy, even now that designer Tom Ford has passed the baton Tel 06/678-93-40. www.gucci. com. Via Condotti 8. Metro Spagna. Mon-Sat 10am-7:30pm.

Jam Store (p. 138) VIA DEL CORSO High-energy sportswear boutique for trendy teens Tel 06/678-1313. www.rinascente.it. Galleria Colonna (Alberto Sordi, at Via del Corso). Buses 62, 85, 95, 116, 175, or 492. Mon-Sat 10am-7:30pm; Sun noon-7pm.

La Rinascente (p. 136) SPANISH STEPS Rome's nicer department store, worth visiting for its accessories selection Tel 06/ 679-76-91. www.rinascente.it. Largo Chigi 20. Buses 62, 85, 95, 116, 175, or 492. Mon-Sat 9:30am-10pm; Sun 10:30am-8pm.

L.E.I. (p. 136) VIA NAZIONALE Find Prince Charming (and his credit card), then come here for girly but gorgeous frocks worthy of Cinderella herself Via Nazionale: Tel 06/482-17-00; Via Nazionale 88; buses 40, 60, 64, 70, 170, or H; Mon-Sat

10am-7:30pm. Via dei Giubbonari: Tel 06/6875432; Via dei Giub-bonari 103; buses 30, 40, 62, 70, 87, 116, or 492 to Campo de' Fiori; Tues-Sat 10am-2pm; Mon-Sat 4-8pm.

Loco (p. 137) CAMPO DE' FIORI Totally unique shoes for women who simply don't have enough Tel 06/688-08-216. Via dei Baullari 22. Buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 87, 116, 492, or 571. Tram 8. Mon 3-7:30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-8:30pm.

Mario Lucchesi (p. 137) SPANISH STEPS Hogan shoes and bags, Fay outerwear, and other Italo-preppy essentials, including golf equipment Tel 06/361-41-59. Via del Babuino 162. Metro Spagna or Flaminio. Mon-Sat 10am-7:30pm. £j See Map 13 on p. 144.

Marmi Line (p. 142) PIAZZA NAVONA Wide selection of restored marble antiques. Will ship anywhere in the world Tel 06/68937-95. www.marmiline.com. Via de' Coronari 113-141/145. Buses 70, 87, 280, or 492. Mon-Sat 10am-7:30pm.

Martina Novelli (p. 137) VATICAN Tiny shoe store with all the latest and greatest designs, from flats to 4-inch stilettos Tel 06/ 397-37-247. Piazza Risorgimento 38. Metro Ottaviano. Buses 23, 81, 271, or 492. Tram 19. Mon-Sat 10am-2pm, 3:30-8pm. Closed Jewish holidays.

Mercato delle Stampe (p. 142) PIAZZA DEL POPOLO Market of used and antiquarian books, prints, and magazines No telephone. Largo della Fontanella di Borghese. Bus 119. Mon-Sat roughly 7:30am-noon.

Missoni (p. 134) SPANISH STEPS The originator of colorful Italian knitwear Tel 06/679-25-55. www.missoni.com. Piazza di Spagna 78. Metro Spagna. Mon-Sat 10am-7:30pm.

Miss Sixty (p. 139) VATICAN/VIA DEL CORSO Jeans and party clothes for chicks with attitude Via del Corso: Tel 06/6781045; www.misssixty.com; Via del Corso 179; Metro Spagna. Via Cola di Rienzo: Tel 06/3200918; Via Cola di Rienzo 235; buses 23, 81, or 492 to Via Cola di Rienzo. Mon-Sat 10am-7:30pm.

Modigliani (p. 136) SPANISH STEPS Home, gift, and wedding registry items in ceramic, stainless, and glass, in classic and modern designs. Will ship anywhere Tel 06/678-5653. www. modigliani.it. Via Condotti 24. Metro Spagna. Mon-Sat 10am-7:30pm.

Mr. Wine (p. 141) PANTHEON The preferred wine seller of Rome's parliamentarians; across the street from the parliament building Tel 06/68-13-41-41. Piazza del Parlamento 7. Buses 119 or 913. Mon-Sat 10am-1pm; Mon-Fri 3:30-8pm.

Murphy&Nye (p. 139) VIA DEL CORSO/VATICAN Stylish, sailing-inspired sportswear for Roman poseurs Via del Corso: Tel 06/ 36004461; www.murphynye.com; Via del Corso 26; Metro Flaminio/Spagna. Via Cola di Rienzo: Tel 06/3265-1812; Via Cola di Rienzo 139; buses 23, 81, 492 to Via Cola di Rienzo. Mon-Sat 10am-7:30pm.

Nuyorica (p. 135) CAMPO DE' FIORI Where centro storico fashion-istas come for their Marc Jacobs, Chloe, and Balenciaga ready-to-wear and accessories Tel 06/6889-1254. www.nuyorica.it. E Piazza Pollarola 36-37. Buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 87, 116, 492, or 571. Tram 8. Mon-Sat 10:30am-8pm.

Onyx (p. 138) SPANISH STEPS Sportswear for junior-high girls and Hilton-sisters-in-training Tel 06/679-15-09. www.onyx.it. Via del Corso 132/Via Frattina 91. Buses 62, 85, 95,116, or 492. Metro Spagna. Mon-Sat 10am-7:30pm.

Piazza Testaccio (p. 140) TESTACCIO Covered produce market in a neighborhood off the tourist track No telephone. Piazza Testaccio. Metro Piramide. Mon-Sat roughly 6am-2pm.

Pinko (p. 135) CAMPO DE' FIORI Well-made and (barely) affordable urban wear for daring women in their 20s and 30s Tel 06/ 683-09-446. www.pinko.it. Via dei Giubbonari 76-77. Buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 87, 492, or 571. Tram 8. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm.

Porta Portese (p. 141) TRASTEVERE Vendors at Rome's biggest open-air flea market sell everything: secondhand clothes, plumbing fixtures, bicycles, and kittens No telephone. Between Via Portuense and Via Ippolito Nievo. Metro Piramide. Buses 170, 280, 718, or 719. Tram 30. Sun roughly 6am-3pm.

Prada (p. 134) SPANISH STEPS Hipper-than-thou Italian design house catering to wealthy waifs and wallflowers Tel 06/67908-97. www.prada.com. Via Condotti 92-95. Metro Spagna. Mon-Sat 10am-7:30pm.

Prototype (p. 138) CAMPO DE' FIORI Hip T-shirts, jeans, and Converse high-tops. For men and women Tel 06/683-00-330. Via dei Giubbonari 50. Buses 30, 40, 46, 62, 64, 70, 87, 492, or 571. Tram 8. Mon-Sat 10am-2pm, 4-7:30pm.

Roberto Cavalli (p. 134) SPANISH STEPS Veteran women's designer employs embellished denim, fur, and leather for in-your-face, body-hugging sex appeal... Tel 06/6938-0130. www.roberto cavalli.it. Via Borgognona 7A. Metro Spagna. Mon-Sat 10am-7:30pm.

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Sermoneta (p. 139) SPANISH STEPS Leather gloves and accessories in every color of the rainbow Tel 06/679-19-60. www.

sermonetagloves.com. Piazza di Spagna 61. Metro Spagna. Mon-Sat 10am-7:30pm.

Sole (p. 136) CAMPO DE' FIORI Glam up your wardrobe with a hot leather trench or papal-chic tasseled belt from this tiny boutique Tel 06/6880-6987. Via dei Baullari 21. Buses 30, 40, 62, 64, 70, 87, 116, 492, or 571. Tram 8. Mon 3:30-7:30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-1:30pm, 3:30-8pm.

Sportstaff (p. 135) SPANISH STEPS A fashion victim's paradise, with cheaply made trendy tops, pants, and accessories Piazza di Spagna: Tel 06/678-15-99; www.sportstaff.com; Piazza di Spagna 86; Metro Spagna. Via del Corso: Tel 06/58200913; Via del Corso 172a; Metro Spagna. Daily 10am-7:30pm.

Stefanel (p. 135) CITYWIDE National clothing chain with basics and some fun stuff for men and women, a cut above Benetton Tel 06/6992-5836. www.stefanel.it. Piazza Venezia 5. Mon-Sat 10am-7:30pm; Sun noon-7pm. Large branches at Via del Corso (Tel 06/6992-5783; Via del Corso 122) and Via Cola di Rienzo (Tel 06/321-1403; Via Cola di Rienzo 223); Mon-Sat 10am-7:30pm.

Trancanelli (p. 137) VATICAN Sneakers, stilettos, and other great shoes for the fashionable men and women of upscale Roma nord Tel 06/323-45-03. Piazza Cola di Rienzo 84. Metro Lep-anto. Buses 70, 81, or 280. Mon-Sat 10am-2pm, 4-7:30pm.

Trimani (p. 141) TERMINI Opened in 1821, this place knows wine. More than 3,000 varieties, plus a wine bar next door Tel 06/ 446-96-61. www.trimani.com. Via Goito 20. Metro Termini. Mon-Sat 8:30am-1:30pm, 3:30-8pm.

Underground (p. 141) SPANISH STEPS Once-monthly market held in parking lot near the Spanish Steps. Lots of vintage jewelry; political and religious knickknacks like buttons, signs, and decorative plates; and everyday junk Tel 06/36-00-53-45. Via Francesco Crispi 96. Metro Spagna or Barberini. Bus 95. Oct-April, 1st Sun of month 10am-8pm.

Valentino (p. 134) SPANISH STEPS The Roman couturier's flagship store Tel 06/678-36-56. www.valentino.com. Via Condotti 13. Metro Spagna. Mon-Sat 10am-7:30pm.

Via Sannio (p. 141) SAN GIOVANNI Daily market selling both new and used items. Best buys are leather jackets, vintage cocktail dresses, and soccer jerseys No telephone. Metro SanGio-vanni. Mon-Sat 9am-2pm.

W Apolloni (p. 142) PIAZZA DEL POPOLO Antiques vendor of art and furniture from the 17th century, rare sculptures, and jewelry from various eras. One of Rome's most exclusive antiquarians Tel 06/679-24-29. Via del Babuino 132. Metro Flaminio or Spagna. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm.

NIGH

Map 15: Rome Nightlife Orientation

National Etruscan x Museum

National Etruscan x Museum

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Antique Collecting

Antique Collecting

ABOUT fifty years ago, when the subject of English furniture first began to be studied and to be written about, it was divided conveniently into four distinct types. One writer called his books on the subject The Age of Oak, The Age of Walnut, The Age of Mahogany and The Age of Satinwood. It is not really quite as simple as that, for each of the so-called Ages overlaps the others and it is quite impossible to lagt down strict dates as to when any one timber was introduced or when it finally, if ever, went out of favour.

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