Where to Stay in Venice

Albergo Adua B Albergo al do Morl 23 Albergo al Gambero 2B Albergo Santa Lucia 11 Antlca Locanda (Palazzo Cavagnls) 1B Hotel Al Due Fanall 7 Hotel Al Plave 19 Hotel Amerlcan B Hotel Bauer Bauer ll Palazzo 32 Hotel Belllnl 9 Hotel Bernardl- Semenzato 13 Hotel Camplello 39 Hotel Clprlanl 44 Hotel Concordla 22 Hotel Danlell 3B Hotel des Balns 44 Hotel Do Pozzl 2B Hotel Dolomltl 1G Hotel Faller 1 Hotel Flora 29 Hotel Fontana 4G Hotel Gallerla 4 Hotel Galllnl 26 Hotel Giorgione 15 Hotel Gritti...

Tips A Genoa Warning

Even locals are wary of back streets in the old city, especially after dark and on midafternoons and Sundays, when shops are closed and streets tend to be deserted. Purse snatching, jewelry theft, and armed robberies are all too common. Also, count your change here. I've never had more people consistently try to rip me off (shops, restaurants, even the public parking garages) anywhere else in Italy. CITY LAYOUT Genoa extends for miles along the coast, with neighborhoods and suburbs tucked into...

An Insiders Look at the Palazzo Ducale

I cannot recommend the Itinerari Segreti (Secret Itineraries) guided tours highly enough. The tours offer an unparalleled look into the world of Venetian politics over the centuries and are the only way to access the otherwise restricted quarters and hidden passageways of this enormous palace, such as the doges' private chambers and the torture chambers where prisoners were interrogated. The story of Gia-como Casanova's imprisonment in, and famous escape from, the palace's prisons is the tour...

Where To Dine

Mantovian cuisine is quite refined an array of pastas stuffed with pumpkin and squash, a fine selection of fish from the surrounding lakes and rivers, and exquisite risotto dishes (rice has been cultivated here since the early 1500s the tourist office even promotes a strada del riso, or rice road, through the region modeling the wine roads of other regions, and showing how important rice is to the area). Leoncino Rosso fjftfp MANTOVANA This fine old restaurant with an attractive rustic dining...

Tips Budgeting Your Time

To squeeze as much of Stresa's sights in as you can in a day, note that the ferry back from the Isole Borromee stops first at the Mottarone cable car area before chugging down the coast to the center of Stresa and the main docks. You can hop off at this first stop to either ride the cable car up the mountain or simply to walk back into Stresa itself along a pretty lakeside promenade, past crumbling villas and impromptu sculpture gardens, in about 20 minutes. the trip out to the island at...

Outdoor Adventures in Bellagio

The Bellagio region has a great outfitter who can treat you to some light adventurous exploration for decent prices. They run mountain bike treks, horseback rides through panoramic mountain passes, kayak excursions around the lake, canyoning (a combination of hiking, swimming, rappelling, and, well, jumping up and down a river gorge), and tandem paragliding lasting anywhere from an hour or 2 to 2 days, starting around 35 ( 40). Contact the Cavalcalario Club, Loc. Gallasco 1, Bellagio (&...

Fast Facts Northern Italy

The following list provides general information. You can find more specific information in the city-specific Fast Facts sections for Venice, Milan, Genoa, and Turin. Banks They're open Monday through Friday from 8 30am to 1 or 1 30pm and 2 or 2 30 to 4pm and closed all day Saturday, Sunday, and national holidays. Hours change slightly from city to city. Business Hours General open hours for stores, offices, and churches are from 9 30am to noon or 1pm and again from 3 or 3 30pm to 7 30pm. That...

Basic Vocabulary

The bill il conto eel kohn-to the bill il conto eel kohn-to Abbacchio Roast haunch or shoulder of lamb baked and served in a casserole and sometimes flavored with anchovies. Agnolotti A crescent-shaped pasta shell stuffed with a mix of chopped meat, spices, vegetables, and cheese when prepared in rectangular versions, the same combination of ingredients may be identified as ravioli (which is usually cheese- Amaretti Crunchy, sweet almond-flavored macaroons. Anguilla alla veneziana Eel cooked in...

Cafes Pastries Wine Bars

When all is said and done in Verona, one of the most important things to consider is where you'll stop to sip, recharge, socialize, nibble, and revel in this handsome and affluent town. CAFES & PASTRIES Verona's grande dame of the local cafe society is the Antico Caffe Dante in the beautiful Piazza dei Signori (no phone). Verona's oldest cafe, it is rather formal indoors (read expensive) where meals are served. But it's most recommended for those who want to soak up the million-dollar view...

Gardone Riviera

The little resort of Gardone Riviera, 47km (29 miles) south of Riva del Garda on the western shore of the lake, has two interesting attractions. Once Italy's most famous soldier poet, Gabriele d'Annunzio is today remembered not for his lackluster verse but more for his adventures and grand lifestyle at Il Vittoriale (& 0365-296-511 www.vittoriale.it), a hillside estate that is one of Lake Garda's major sites. He bought the estate (it's also alleged that Mussolini presented it to the poet as...

What To See Do

The main in-town activity in Cortina appears to be walking up and down the main street, the pedestrian-only Corso Italia, in the most fashionable skiwear money can buy. Most of the buildings are new but pleasingly low-scale and Alpine in design, and at the town center is the pretty 18th-century church of Santi Filippo e Giacomo, with a charming bell tower eclipsed in height only by the majestic peaks. It is on these peaks that most visitors set their sights, enjoying an amazing array of outdoor...

Staying Safe

The worst threats you'll likely face are the pickpockets that sometimes frequent touristy areas and public buses just keep your valuables in an under-the-clothes money belt and you should be fine. There are, of course, thieves in Italy as there are everywhere, so be smart don't leave anything in your rental car overnight, and leave nothing visible in it at any time to avoid the temptation to a passing would-be thief. and renaissance didn't have wheelchairs or...

Where to Dine in Venice

A Le Do Spade 10 Ai Tre Spiedi 11 Al Covo 29 Alla Madonna B Antico Martini 22 Arcimboldo 2B Bistrot de Venise 20 Cantino do Mori 9 Da Aciugheta 1B Da Sandro 7 Do Forni 19 Pizzeria Trattoria al Vecio Canton 16 Ristorante Corte Sconta BO Rosticceria San Bartolomeo 1B Rosticceria Teatro Goldoni 15 Taverna San Trovaso 5 Trattotia ai Cugnai 6 Trattoria alla Rivetta 17 Trattoria da Fiore 2 Trattoria da Remigio 27 Vini da Arturo 21 Vino Vino 2B (look for Bar Torino, Bar Black Jack, or the...

Cafes

Venice is a quiet town in the evening and offers very little in the way of nightlife. For tourists and locals alike, Venetian nightlife mainly centers around the many cafe bars in one of the world's most remarkable piazzas Piazza San Marco even Napol on called it the most beautiful drawing room of the world. It is also the most expensive and touristed place to linger over a Campari or cappuccino, but a splurge that should not be dismissed too readily. The nostalgic 18th-century Caff Florian tff...

Where To Stay

Annabella The nice proprietors manage to accommodate groups of just about any size in this old apartment that's been converted to an attractive pensione, with comfortable old modular furniture and whitewashed walls. Some of the rooms sleep up to four, and one family-style arrangement includes a large room with a double bed and a tiny room outfitted with bunk beds for children. None of the rooms have private bathrooms, but the four shared facilities are ample and hot water is plentiful. The...

Alba

Lovely old Alba retains a medieval flavor that's as mellow as the wines it produces. It's a pleasure to walk along the Via Vittorio Emanuele and the narrow streets of the Old Town, visit the 14th-century duomo, and peer into shop windows with lavish displays of Alba's wines, its other famous product, truffles, and its less noble but enticing nocciola, a decadent concoction of nuts and chocolate. GETTING THERE By Train Only one direct train in the evening, after 6pm runs between Turin and Alba 1...

Side Trips From Verona

The ancient Greeks called Italy Enotria the land of wines. It produces more wine than any other country in the world, so the annual VinItaly wine fair held every April in Verona is an understandably prestigious event. The Veneto produces more DOC Denominazione di Origine Controllata, zones of controlled name and origin wines than anywhere else in Italy, particularly the Veronese trio of Bardolino and Valpolicella reds and soave white . The costly, dry Valpolicello wine known as Amarone comes...

Riva Del Garda

The northernmost town on the lake is not just a resort but a real, prosperous Italian town, with medieval towers, a nice smattering of Renaissance churches and palazzi, and narrow cobblestone streets where everyday business proceeds in its alluring way. GETTING THERE By Train See Getting There By Train, under Sirmione, earlier in this chapter, for connections to Desenzano del Garda, from which you must take a bus see below . By Bus Six buses a day link Riva del Garda and Desenzano del Garda on...

Horses Donkeys

Asti and Alba, bitter rivals through much of the Middle Ages, each celebrate the autumnal harvest with equine celebrations that are horses of a very different color. The Palio amp 0141-399-482 , Asti's annual horse race, is run the third Sunday of September. Like the similar but more famous horse race that the Tuscan city of Siena mounts, Asti's Palio begins with a medieval pageant through the town and ends with a wild bareback ride around the Campo del Palio. The race coincides with Asti's...

Sirmione

Garda's most popular resort juts several miles into the southern waters of the lake on a narrow peninsula of cypress and olive groves. Despite an onslaught of visitors, Sirmione manages to retain its charm. Vehicular traffic is kept to a minimum the few motorists allowed onto the marble streets of the old town are required to switch off their cars' engines at traffic lights . The emphasis is on strolling, swimming in waters warmed in spots by underwater hot springs, and relaxing on sunny hotel...