Kashan is full of driver-guides looking to take you to Abyaneh (usually about IR 150,000), Abyaneh and Natanz (IR200,000), or those two and on to Esfahan (IR250,000). Ahmad Pourseyedi (Igl 533 0321, 0913 264 3012; ahmad_pourseyedi('Charming old rogue' Ahmad's septuagenarian legs have seen better days and his history is sometimes awry, but he's delightful company as he recalls anecdotes while driving sedately around the Kashani hinterlands.

Cheap Taxi Reza (Igl 444 9581, 0913 361 1136) Reza Shoghi is a nice guy, a safe driver and has enough English. Mahdi Galekhah (s 0913 261 3530; [email protected] Works in historical houses, generous and engaging.

Mohammad Fatehi (ยง 0913 363 1796; mr_ [email protected]) Easygoing, very knowledgeable and reliable. Also works in historical houses.

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