Getting There Away

Getting to Garmeh is not easy. From Esfahan take the 1pm bus to Khur, 38km to the north of Garmeh on the Na'in to Tabas road. Or meet the bus in Na'in at about 4pm. From Tehran, buses come direct from Terminal-e Jonub to Khur (14 hours) on Sunday and Wednesday. On other days, the bus to Birjand stops in Khur.

From Tehran, five or six buses (Taavonis 8 and 10) depart every day Terminal-e Jonub for Birjand between 2.30pm and 5pm. All of them stop at Khur about 10 hours later; call Ateshoni to arrange to be met in Khur. From Esfahan, a bus leaves daily at 1pm for Khur, or you could get on any bus to Mashhad (though these usually leave later so arrive at inconvenient times).

A bus leaves Yazd for Khur at 7am Saturday and Monday, and 3pm on Thursday. On other days, take any bus to Na'in and connect with the bus from Esfahan at the big roundabout just outside town (the driver will drop you at the right place).

Khur is pretty quiet, but even at 9.30pm you will probably be able to find someone to drive you out to Garmeh. Just say 'Maziar'. Expect to pay about IR30,000 for the trip. If you call ahead, Ateshoni will arrange for someone to collect you.

Leaving Garmeh, you'll first need to get a lift to Khur. From there, a daily bus to Na'in and Esfahan at 1pm; link to Yazd from Na'in. There are also buses direct to Yazd via the desert route on Sunday and Wednesday at 7am, and Friday at 3pm. These stop at Kharanaq, if you want to stay there - ask Hadi for all the details.'

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