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WHERE'S THE PARTY?

Goa has long been renowned among Western visitors as a party place where all-night, open-air raves dominated the scene in places such as Anjuna and Vagator. A central government ban on loud music in open spaces between 10pm and 6am was aimed partly at curbing Goa's intrusive party scene, but with a tourist industry to nurture (and a bit of bribery) the authorities have tended to turn a blind eye to parties during the peak Christmas-New Year period. Rave parties are organised at open-air locations such as Disco Valley at Vagator and Bamboo Forest in Anjuna, and occasionally at Arambol, but they are not advertised so you'll have to ask around to find out what's on and be prepared to ride around aimlessly on a motorcycle looking for the right place. More permanent nightclubs have also become established in the Candolim-Calangute-Baga area over the years.

but expresses and passenger trains stop at most other stations along the line.

There are two daily expresses between Mar-gao's Madgaon train station and Mumbai's Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (CST; the old Victoria Terminus), two between Madgaon and Lokmanya Tilak and one between Madgaon and Dadar (both in northern Mumbai). From Mumbai CST the overnight Konkan Kanya Express departs at 11pm (sleeper/3AC Rs 273/771, 12 hours) and the Mandavi Express departs at 6.55am. The fastest train (in theory) is the Shatabdi Express, which departs from Dadar at 5.35am daily except Wednesday (2nd class/AC seat Rs 197/675, six hours). From Margao to Mumbai, the Konkan Kanya Express leaves at 6pm, the Mandavi Express at 9.50am and the Shatabdi Express at 11.40am.

There are 12 direct trains between Margao and Mangalore (sleeper/3AC Rs 207/533, hours), most stopping at Mangalore's Kanka-nadi station.

The South Central Railway operates from Vasco da Gama via Margao and Londa, and runs to Pune, Delhi and Bengaluru (Bangalore). The Nizamuddin-Goa Express goes to Delhi (sleeper/3AC Rs 531/1438, 41 hours).

The Delhi-Goa (Margao) Rajdhani Express (3AC/2AC/1st class Rs 1985/2915/5430, 25& hours) leaves Delhi Nizamuddin station Sunday and Tuesday. It also goes from Delhi to Goa every Wednesday and Friday, leaving Margao at 11.30am.

Bookings can be made at Madgaon (p870) and Vasco da Gama stations, or at the train reservation office at Panaji's Kadamba bus stand (p848). Other useful stations on the Konkan route are Pernem for Arambol, Thivim for Mapusa and the northern beaches, Karmali (Old Goa) for Panaji and Canacona for Palolem.

Getting Around

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