The Wrong Trousers

One particularly gruesome display at the Holmavik witchcraft museum is a copy of the legendary necropants - trousers made from the skin of the legs and groin of a dead man. It was believed that the necropants would spontaneously produce money when worn, as long as the donor corpse had been stolen from a graveyard at the dead of night and a magic rune and a coin stolen from a poor widow were placed in the dead man's scrotum!

Fer3a|>jónstan Kópnesbraut ("S 4513117; solgulla islandia.is; Kópnesbraut 17; sb/s/d lkr2200/3500/6500) Another pleasant place with just three rooms, this is a slight step up, with in-room TVs and shared kitchen and bathroom.

Kirkjubol (@ 451 3474; www.strandir.is/kirkjubol; sb/s/d lkr2200/3500/6000) About 8km south of Holmavik, right by the seashore, is this big and comfortable farmhouse with cosy rooms and a warm welcome. The owners can help arrange local activities.

t'HU'WH Café Riis (§§ 451 3567; www.cafériis.is; Haf-narbraut 39; mains lkr950-2200; S 11.30am-11pm, to 3am Fri & Sat) The town pub and restaurant is an atmospheric place with stripped floors and carved magic symbols on the walls. Set in a historic wooden building that dates from 1897, this is a fine place to chill out with a beer. The menu ranges from burgers and pizzas to steak and gourmet fish dishes.

As always, cheap fast food is available at the petrol station.

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