Mng Kk

3 3552 3388 www.langhamhotels.com langham place hongkong 555 Shanghai St, Mong Kok s& d 2600-3200, ste from 3900 MTR Mong Kok (exit Peering out from one of the guestrooms of this colossal tower hotel, you'd never suspect for a moment that you were in Mong Kok. It's a triumph for the district. The special guestroom features include multifunction IP phones, DVD players, marble bathrooms with 'rain shower' plus bath, and room safes that can fit (and recharge) a laptop. Ming Court (pi94) serves...

Drinking

The southern end of the NAPE area on Macau Peninsula (what locals call Lan Kwai Fong) is where to head for pub crawls. For a quieter drink, the local Portuguese and Macanese have I some wonderful, low-key places that are hidden away from the usual tourist haunts in the unassuming buildings near the Flora Garden (Map pp316 17) and Kiang Wu Hospital (Map pp316-17), you'll need patience to unearth them, but you'll 3 be rewarded with the discovery of some pleas-> ingly authentic local watering...

Trappist Monastery Map P

s 2987 6292 Tai Shui Hang B kaido from Peng Chau Northeast of Mui Wo and south of Discovery Bay at Tai Shui Hang is the Roman Catholic Lady of Joy Abbey - better known as the Trappist Monastery. The monastery is known throughout Hong Kong for its cream-rich milk, sold in half-pint bottles everywhere, but, alas, the cows have been moved to the New Territories and Trappist Dairy Milk now comes from over the border in China. The Trappists, a branch of the Cistercian order, were founded by a...

Shenzhen

Immediately across Hong Kong's border to the north is Shenzhen (population 10,970,000), China's wealthiest city and a 'Special Economic Zone' (SEZ). Most foreigners come here for business or to bargain hunt at the innumerable factory outlets and shops, but there is more to keep you entertained you just have to look. You can buy a five-day, Shenzhen-only visa at the border, Americans excluded (p286). Before the 1980s, Shenzhen's tallest building was a mere four storeys. But in 1980 this sleepy...

Yau Mateimongkok

To the north of Tsim Sha Tsui, Yau Ma Tei and Mong Kok cater mostly to local shoppers and offer good prices on clothing, sporting goods, camping gear, footwear, computers and other daily necessities. There's nothing very exotic available here, but for your everyday items they're popular spots, and it is fun to see how the local people shop, and to check out what they are buying. TRENDY ZONE Map p97 Clothing & Accessories Chow Tai FookCentre, 580A Nathan Rd S 1-10pm MTR Mong Kok (exit E2) A...

Central Sh The Midlevels

FOUR SEASONS Map p56 Luxury Hotel 3196-8888 www.fourseasons.com 8 Finance St, Central r from 4200, ste from 7500 Hong Kong MTR (exit F) The latest luxury arrival, the Four Seasons arguably edges into top place on Hong Kong Island for its amazing views, its location close to the Star Ferry and Hong Kong Station, for its palatial rooms, and its glorious pool and spa complex. The downstairs lobby lounge looking onto the harbour is a wonderful place to enjoy afternoon tea, although the likes of the...

Transport Lantau

Ferry Mui Wo Major services from Central leave from pier 6 of the Outlying Islands ferry terminal. Ferries also depart from Chi Ma Wan (also on Lantau), Cheung Chau and Peng Chau. Chi Ma Wan Served by the inter-island ferry from Mui Wo, Cheung Chau and Peng Chau. TaiO Reached by the service that operates from Tuen Mun in the New Territories via Sha Lo Wan and Tung Chung Tung Chung Reached by a regularservicefrom Tuen Mun. It's also served by the less-frequent service that comes from Tai 0 and...

Tsim Sha Tsui

Nathan Rd is the main tourist strip, a huge avenue with side streets full of camera, watch and electronic shops, and leather and silk emporiums. Although this is the part of town where you're most likely to become a victim of sharp practice, Tsim Sha Tsui is also home to a large number of above-board designer and signature shops. Some of these are found in Nathan Rd, but the bulk are in Harbour City, a labyrinthine shopping complex with a mall that stretches nearly 1km from the Star Ferry...

Plover Cove

The area around Plover Cove Reservoir (Map pp50-1) is good hiking and cycling country and well worth at least a full day's exploring. The village of Tai Mei Tuk, the springboard for most of the activities in the Plover Cove area, is about 6km northeast of Tai Po Market KCR East Rail station. It may be worthwhile getting a copy of Universal Publications' TseungKwan O, Sai Kung Clearwater Bay or else the Countryside Series map North-East & Central New Territories (see p295). Bicycles can be...

Macau Peninsula

Macau is known for its distinct culinary pleasures, no matter whether for Chinese, Portuguese or Macanese cuisines. Most of the restaurants in Macau open from noon to around 3pm, and re-open again at 6pm till 10pm. Good news for foodies - the 5 government tax levied on food and beverage in restaurants was recently lifted. Macau Peninsula's daai-p ai-dawng (open-air street stalls) serve up excellent stir-fried dishes try any of those along Rua do Almirante S rgio. Macau has about 10 mercados...

Fanling Sheung Shui

What were two lazy country villages (Map pp50-1) just a few years ago, Fanling and Sheung Shui now form one of the largest New Town conurbations in the New Territories, with some 300,000 inhabitants. Get a feel for what they were once like by walking around the Luen Wo Hu district at the northern end of Fanling. Major sights are thin on the ground here, but there's an important Taoist temple within easy walking distance and, a short bus ride away, a seldom-visited walled village and the Lung...

Central Macau Peninsula

Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro - called San Ma Lo (New St) in Cantonese, together with its southern extension, Avenida do Infante Dom Henrique - is the peninsula's main thoroughfare. It effectively divides the narrow southern peninsula from central and northern Macau. In the centre of this long thoroughfare is the charming square, Largo do Senado. Bus 3 will bring you to the city centre, or take a free casino shut e to Grand Lisboa from the ferry terminal. The sights are within walking distance...

Sai Kung Peninsula

BRADBURY HALL Map pp50-1 Hostel 2328 2458 www.yha.org.hk Chek Keng, Sai Kung camping members nonmembers 25 35, dm members under over 18 yr 35 50 094 This 90-bed HKYHA hostel is right on the harbour facing Chek Keng pier. It's always open on the weekend and on the eve of public holidays but is often open on weekdays, too telephone the HKYHA on 2788 1638 in advance to check. To reach Chek Keng by bus from Sai Kung town, catch bus 94 headed for Wong Shek and alight at Pak Tam Au (it's the fourth...

LANTAU

As on Lamma and Cheung Chau during the summer, and on weekends the rest of the year, you can rent holiday rooms and apartments from kiosks set up at the Mui Wo ferry pier. The HKYHA has two hostels on Lantau, one a stone's throw from the Tian Tan Buddha in Ngong Ping and the other in a remote area of the Chi Ma Wan Peninsula. The hostels are open to HKYHA HI cardholders only, but membership is available if you pay the nonmember's rate for six nights here or at other HKYHA hostels. You can also...

Diseases

Until recently it was unheard of in Hong Kong, yet some 30 cases were reported in 2004 (the outbreak claimed no lives). This viral disease is transmitted by mosquitoes but unlike the malaria mosquito, the Aedes aegypti mosquito, which transmits the dengue virus, is most active during the day, and is found mainly in urban areas, in and around human dwellings. Signs and symptoms of dengue fever include a sudden onset of high fever, headache, joint and muscle...

Football Soccer

Hong Kong has a fairly lively amateur soccer league. Games are played at the Happy Valley Sports Ground (Map p65 2895 1523 Sports Rd, Happy Valley (1) Happy Valley), a group of pitches inside the Happy Valley Racecourse, and at Mong Kok Stadium (Map p9S 2380 0188 37 Flower Market Rd, Mong Kok MTR Prince Edward, exit B1). For match schedules and venues, check the sports sections of the English-language newspapers or contact the Hong Kong Football Assoaation ( S 2712 9122 www.hkfa .com). The big...

ToFrom the Airport

The Airport Express line of the Mass Transit Railway (MTR) is the fastest - and most expensive - way to get to and from Hong Kong International Airport. A gaggle of much cheaper buses connects the airport with Lan-tau, the New Territories, Kowloon and Hong Kong Island. Airport Express (AEL 28818888 www.mtr.com.hk) has trains departing from Hong Kong station in Central every 10 to 12 minutes from 5.50am to 12.48am, calling at Kowloon and Tsing Yi stations before arriving at Airport station. The...

Cinema

While painting and literature are enjoying a new lease of life in early 21st century Hong Kong, the art of film making has lost its lustre. Once the 'Hollywood of the Far East', churning out 245 films in 1994 alone and coming in third behind Hollywood and Mumbai, Hong Kong now produces only a few dozen films each year. What's more, up to half of all local films go directly to video format, to be pirated and sold as DVDs in the markets of Mong Kok and Shenzhen. Imports now account for between 55...

CENTRAL

Drinking & Nightlife p205 Eating p176 Shopping p156 Sleeping p250 All visitors to Hong Kong inevitably pass through Central (Map p56) - sightseeing, shop ping, taking care of errands, en route to the bars and restaurants of Lan Kwai Fong and Soho, or boarding or getting off the Airport Express. As Hong Kong's business centre, Central has some impressive architecture (p37). It's sky- E2 Miu Fat Monastery 20 C3 E3 SSteS + 't' 1 D4 RBW + 't> 2 Dl Plover Cove Country Park Visitor Centre E4 Sai...

Money

Macau's currency is the pataca (MOPS), which is divided up into 100 avos. Bills are issued in denominations of MOPS 10, MOPS20, MOPSSO, MOPSIOO, MOPS500 and MOPS 1000. There are little copper coins worth 10,20 and 50 avos, and silver-coloured MOPS1, MOPS2, MOPS5 and MOPSIO coins. The pataca is pegged to the Hong Kong dollar at the rate of MOPS 103.20 to HKS100. As a result, exchange rates for the pataca are virtually the same as for the Hong Kong dollar, which is accepted everywhere in Macau....

Z

Zedong, Mao 24 Zhuhai 241-6, 235, 242 accommodation 245 attractions 241-3 food 245 l ui ta continued tourist information 244-5 travel to from 244 zodiac, Chinese 43 Chilli N Spice 190 Mega Box 194 Peak Lookout 183 Cru Wine & Grill 181 Pearl on the Peak 183 A-1 Bakery Shop 197 Lord Stow's Bakery 340 Bookworm Caf 199 Cafe Lagoon 195-6 Cafe One 182 Caravela 338 Deli Lamma Caf 199 Greeny Grassland 201 Hometown Teahouse 199 Lord Stow's Caf 340 Lord Stow's Garden Caf 340 Restaurant 190-1 Kapok...

Island Hopping In Sai Kung

You can make any number of easy boat trips from Sai Kung Town, exploring the mosaic of islands that dot the harbour. It's a delightful way to spend a few hours or even an entire day. Most kaidos (small, open-sea ferries) leave from the pier on the waterfront, just in front of Hoi PongSguare. The easiest (and cheapest) way to go is to jump aboard a 'scheduled' kaido (ie one that goes according to demand and when full) bound forthe small island of 'im Tin Tsai ( 15,15 minutes). On the way, the...

C

Canoeing 227 Cantonese cuisine 172 Canto-pop 34-5 car travel 278-9 driving licence 279 rental 279 road rules 279 Carmel Gardens 327 carpets 154,see also Shopping subindex Casa Garden 325 casinos 340-1, 10, see also EntertainmentiuW irffx Cat St 70 Cat Street Galleries 70 Causeway Bay 73-6, 74, 112 accommodation 255-7 attractions 73-6 bars & pubs 210 clubs & live music 216 food 187-8 shopping 165-6 transport 73 Shelter 75-6 cell phones 301 Cemetery of St Michael the Archangel 325-6...

Taipaclane Islands

Taipa is a very happening place with the commencement of massive land-reclama-tion projects on the Cotai strip bringing in a bunch of top-end accommodation options. Coloane offers quite a diversity of places to stay - from two budget hostels to a 'cosy' inn to the territory's most exclusive resort. 3 2886 8888 www.crown-macau.com Avenida de Kwong Tung r M0p 3080, ste from MOP 4180 Located next to the notorious Regency Hotel (the hotel staff are terribly rude) is this recently opened 'six-star...

Neighbourhoods Islands

Think ofHong Kong as being divided into four 'Jhjnk Of HOnO KOnq 8S main areas Hong Kong island, Kowloon, the New Territories and the Outlying Islands. being d V ded ntO TOUT The beating commercial and social heart of j. Hong Kong lies in the first two of these areas 1X13111 afeaSI MOng KOPig the skyscraper-xlad northern edge of Hong S anC KOWlOOII, the Kong Island and the busy commercial and residential district of Kowloon - which face each New Territories and the other across Victoria...

Food Glossary

Baak- cheuk- haa steamed fresh prawns ching jing yew whole steamed fish, usually grouper, served with spring onion, ginger and soy sauce jin ho_beng MfiSM squid dry-fried with salt and pepper in a wok lung haa fllg rock lobster siu yew chi braised shark's fin tim sewn yew sweet-and-sourfish, usually yellow croaker yew daan ft J ho yau ngau yuk sliced beef with oystersauce hung siu jew sau red simmered pork knuckle hung siu paai guat braised porkspareribs jaa ji gai crispy-skin chicken jeung...

Admiralty Wan Chai

2520 2515 1st fl, Starcrest Bldg, 9 Star St, Wan Chai S 5pm-3am Mon-Thu, 5pm-4am Fri & Sat, 6pm-2am Sun, happy hour 6-9pm Mon-Fri MTR Admiralty (exit) Pronounced 'one-fifth', this sophisticated lounge bar and club has a broad bar backed by a two-storey drinks selection from which bar staff concoct some of Hong Kong's best cocktails. It gets packed on the weekend with a dressy professional crowd but it's still a good place to chill. 2529 1811 Ground fl, Shiu Lam Bldg, 23 Luard Rd, Wan Chai S...

Sheung

Drinking & Nightlife p208 Eating p182 Shopping p162 Sleeping p250 West of Central, in pockets Sheung Wan (Map p70) still has something of a feel of old Shanghai about it, although that is fast disappearing under the jackhammer, and many of the old 'ladder streets' (steep inclined streets with steps) once lined with stalls and street vendors have been cleared away to make room for more buildings or the MTR. Nevertheless, traditional shops and businesses cling on and the area is worth...

The Peak

On your first clear day in Hong Kong, make tracks for the cooler climes of the Peak (Map pp54-5), the highest point on the island. Not only is the view one of the most spectacular cityscapes in the world, it's also a good way to put Hong Kong and its layout into perspective. Repeat the trip up on a clear night the views of illuminated Central below and Tsim Sha Tsui across the harbour in Kowloon are superb. The Peak has been the place to live in Hong Kong ever since the British arrived. Taipans...

Hong Kong Museum Of History

2724 9042 www.hk.history.museum 100 Chatham Rd South adult concession 10 5, admission free Wed S 10am-6pm Mon & Wed-Sat, 10am-7pm Sun & public holidays MTR Tsim Sha Tsui (exit B2) Avenue ofthe Stars Mt 1 B4 Hong Kong Antiquities & Monuments Office tiftrS 2 Al bi Al C2 New East Ocean Centre 6 Cl B2 Bi Chinese Carpet Centre i'H T 9 B4 Chinese Carpet Centre i' I T (see 17) Granville Rdlnitgfc& i 10 A2 B2 B2 12) Gomitori S i) SS 16 B2 B2 EPS* 1968 18 Bl 19 A3 37) 35) Red Stone Bar &...

Zhuhai

Zhuhai is as laidback as its neighbouring former Portuguese enclave, Macau. A SEZ, this 'pearl of the sea' never reached the level of success (or excess) of the nearby Shenzhen SEZ. So much the better for residents and travellers, for this city of 1.4 million people is clean and green and has the fewest maniacal drivers in China. A small agricultural town into the 1980s, the Zhuhai of today has not only the usual SEZ skyline of glimmering five-star hotels and big factories, but even its own...

Transport Clearwater Bay Peninsula

Bu Bus 91 runs between Diamond Hill and Choi Hung MTR stations to Tai Au Mun. Green Minibu Bus 103M runs between Tseung Kwan 0 MTR station and Clearwater Bay. Bus 103 runs to Kwun Tong ferry pier, and bus 16 to Po Lam MTR station. Silverstrand and go for a dip. If you're heading for Lung Ha Wan, get off the bus at Tai Au Mun village and start walking. From Sai Kung, take bus 92 to where Hiram's Hwy and Clearwater Bay Rd meet and change there to bus 91. From Tai Au Mun, Tai Au Mun Rd leads south...

Cheung Chau

Cheung Chau is not particularly well set up for overnighters. Depending on the day of the week and the season, up to half a dozen booths just opposite the ferry pier and another couple north along Praya St rent out studios and apartments. There is also the Warwick Hotel on Tung Wan Beach. WARWICK HOTEL Map p143 Hotel 2981 0081 www.warwickhotel.com.hk Cheung Chau Sports Rd, Tung Wan Beach s amp d with mountain sea view Mon-Fri 740 840, Sat amp Sun 1090 1190, ste from 1340 1890, weekly month ly...

Star Ferry

You can't say you've 'done' Hong Kong until you've taken a ride on a Star Ferry 2367 7065 www.starferry.com.hk , that wonderful fleet of a dozen electric-diesel vessels with names like Morning Star, Celestial Star and Twinkling Star. Try to take your first trip on a clear night from Kowloon to Central. It's not half as dramatic in the opposite direction. The Star Ferry operates on four routes, but the most popular one is the run between Tsim Sha Tsui and Central pier 7 . The coin-operated...

Causeway Bay

Causeway Bay has perhaps the largest weekend crowds and the broadest spectrum in terms of price. It is a crush of department stores and smaller outlets selling designer and street fashion, electronics, sporting goods and household items. A good up-and-coming neighbourhood for hip fashions is springing up along Paterson and Kingston Sts close to Victoria Park. Causeway Bay also has a few lively street markets. Jardine's Bazaar actually a street and the area behind it are home to stalls and shops...

Snakes Alive

Take care when bushwalking, particularly on Lamma and Lantau Islands. Poisonous snakes, the most common being the Bamboo Pit Viper, are a hazard, although they will not attack unless surprised or provoked. Go straight to a public hospital if bitten private doctors do not stock antivenom. Other fauna to be aware of in the New Territories are wild boars, which can be hugely dangerous if they choose to attack. Steer well clear if you spot one and back off slowly if you've already gotten too close....

Tsim Sha Tsui East

After a bit of a slump in the '90s, Tsim Sha Tsui East has regained much of its life with the extension of KCR East Rail line, which is connected with the MTR and has an exit right outside of Kowloon Shangri-La. 2 F Intercontinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd MTR Tsim Sha Tsui exit F This is the restaurant where the Hollywood set drops by whenever they are in town, like they would in London, New York and Los Angeles. The tiradito scallop, white fish, live octopus or razor clam from 195 with...

Therapy Clinics

Feel like giving your tootsies a pamper Or how about your nostrils an olfactory feast You can at one of Hong Kong's therapy clinics. DK Aromatherapy Map p68 2771 2847 www .aroma.com.hk Ground fl, 16A Staunton St, Central, Central Escalator S llam-IOpm Full body aromatherapy treatment 500 to 550. Happy Foot Reflexology Centre Map p68 S 2544 1010 11th amp 13th fl, Jade Centre, 98-102 Wellington St, Central S lOam-midnight MTR Central, exit D2 Foot body massage starts at 198 250 for 50 minutes....

Signature Dishes In Tou Tou Koi Macau

The bar area extends its opening hours until 1.30am on Fridays. There is a tiny gallery tall people mind your head upstairs exhibiting artwork from local young artists. PRAIA GRANDE Map pp316-17 Portuguese 2897 3022 10A Praga Lobo d'Avila starters M0P 35-65, mains M0p 80-200 S noon-11 pm Mon-Fri, 11,45am-11 pm Sat amp Sun 6,9,32 Get a table by the window upstairs for a view of the boulevard. This stylish place serves adequate Portuguese dishes on the historic Praia Grande....

Shopping

Shopping is the sole reason many people visit Shenzhen. An invaluable book to guide you is Shop in Shenzhen An Insider's Guide S95 USS12 by Ellen McNally, available in bookshops throughout Hong Kong and online from Amazon. You are guaranteed not to leave Shenzhen empty-handed, though the quality can vary. Be ready to haggle. Dafen Village Dafencun 0755-8473 2633 www.cndafen.com Dafen, Buji, Longgang District It is easy to associate China with all kinds of counterfeits, including artwork, but...

Top picks

The Ladies' Market has plenty for all This Mong Kok market place is awesome for bargain shopping. From Bruce Lee figurines to Mao lighters, all souvenirs and clothes are cheap. Beware, though, pushy sales people and dense crowds can make it too much for even the most dedicated shopper. Festival Walk is a cause for celebration Away from the street markets this huge shopping centre has 216 shops whose goods are limited only by your imagination. Relax by watching a movie in the multiplex or by...