Pair of Local Crafts

One local craft still practiced on Simi is shipbuilding. If you walk along the water toward Nos beach, you'll probably see boats under construction or repair. It's a treat to watch the men fashion planed boards into a graceful boat. Simi was a boat-building center in the days of the Peloponnesian War, when spirited sea battles were waged off its shores. Sponge fishing is almost a dead industry in Greece. Only a generation ago, 2,000 divers worked waters around the island today only a handful...

By Plane

The vast majority of travelers reach Greece by plane and most of them arrive at the new Athens airport officially the Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport, and sometimes referred to by its new location, the Spata airport. UNITED STATES At press time, only two regularly scheduled airlines offer direct, nonstop flights from the States to Athens Olympic and Delta. Some travelers find the planes a bit For more information, check out Eleanor Berman's Traveling Solo Advice and Ideas for More...

Where To Stay

Nafplion has enough hotels that you can usually find a room here, although you may end up on the outskirts of town in high season. Be sure to make a reservation if you want a view of the harbor, or if you are going to be here when there is a performance at Epidaurus, when tour groups reserve entire hotels. If you arrive without a reservation and have trouble finding a room, try the Municipal Tourist Office, 25 Martiou, across from the bus station. They often can find rooms in small pensiones....

Tips Visiting Athos

On Mount Athos, you will be walking almost everywhere you go, and staying and eating at the monasteries you have come to visit, which certainly simplifies things. Simple is a key word here both your accommodations and food (Athos is a vegetarian's paradise) will be very basic. Look out for some of the wine made on Athos and sold throughout Greece the Tsantali white (not all of which is made here, despite its labels) is particularly refreshing, while the Metochi Mylopotamou made at the Great...

Detour To Leukadia

If Vergina has whetted your appetite for royal tombs, you might consider heading north to Leukadia, 20km (12 miles) south of Edessa in the beautiful foothills of Mount Vermion. Be forewarned This is one of those excursions based on suggestions such as ask for directions in the village and ask if the custodian will accompany you and open the tombs. If you're lucky and find the custodian and the tombs (ask in cafes and the main square in Leukadia), you'll get to see three spectacular tombs. The...

Fast Facts Greece

American Express Long the most prominent and favorite of travelers to Greece as elsewhere, it maintains an extensive network of offices and agents throughout Greece. The Athens office is located prominently overlooking Syntagma Square. We indicate these offices and agencies throughout the guide, just as we indicate the various travel arrangements and financial services American Express offers. Appropriate Attire Dress or undress codes have greatly relaxed at Greek beach resorts in recent years,...

The Regions in Brief

Greece is a land of sea and mountains. Over a fifth of the Greek land mass is comprised of islands, numbering several thousand if you count every floating crag and nowhere in Greece will you find yourself more than 96km (60 miles) from the sea. It should come as no surprise that the sea molds the Greek imagination, as well as its history. Mainland Greece, meanwhile, is a great vertebrate, with the Pindos range reaching from north to south, and continuing, like a tail, through the Peloponnese....

What To See Do In Rhodes City

Rhodes is awash in first-rate sights and entertainment. As an international playground and a museum of both antiquity and the medieval era, Rhodes has no serious competitors in the Dodecanese and few peers in the eastern Mediterranean. Consequently, in singling out its highlights, we necessarily pass over sights that on lesser islands would be main attractions. Best to know one thing from the start about Old Town It's not laid out on a grid not even close. There are roughly 200 streets or lanes...

SARS Health Concerns

At the time this book went to press, SARS did not seem to be a problem in Greece nor did it seem that SARS would be a threat at the Olympics or in the transportation to and from Greece. By August 2004, however, a great deal might have happened with SARS and presumably everyone will be well aware of that situation. Aside from SARS, the Greek Olympic organizers have committed all kinds of resources to providing first-response medical service for spectators as well as athletes. Medical personnel...

Essentials

GETTING THERE By Plane Olympic Airways (& 210 966-6666 or 210 936-9111 www.olympic-airways.gr) has at least one flight daily between Naxos and Athens. For information and reservations on Naxos, call Olympic or visit Naxos Tours, toward the south end of the paralia (& 22850 23-043 naxos-tours naxos-island.com), the local representative for Olympic. By Boat From Piraeus, there is at least one daily ferry (6 hr.) and one daily highspeed ferry (4 hr.) schedules can be checked with the Athens...

Spectator Sports

The Greeks are passionately devoted to soccer and basketball, and betting (legal and nationwide) on sports events is heavy. All sports events are listed in the Greek press and sometimes in the English-language daily Athens News. You can also try to get information by stopping by the office of the Greek National Tourism Organization, 2 Amerikis, and asking if anyone is playing (unless you speak Greek, do not try this by phone). The best-known soccer teams are the fierce rivals Olympiakos...

What To See Do

Nafplion is a stroller's delight one of the great pleasures here is simply wandering along the harbor, through the parks (Kolokotronis and Kapodistrias parks run into each other), and up and down the stepped side streets, discovering unexpected Turkish fountains and small churches. Don't make the mistake of ending your harborside stroll when you come to the last of the large seaside cafes by the Hotel Agamemnon If you continue on, you can watch fishing boats putting in at the pier, explore...

Kefalonia Cephalonia

Come to spend time in a relaxing environment, to enjoy handsome vistas and a lovely countryside. This is a Greek island the way they used to be it pretty much goes its own way while you travel around and through it. It does boast several natural wonders, a few historical buildings and archaeological sites, and many fine beaches. Kefalonia also has a full-service tourist industry, with some fine hotels, restaurants, travel agencies, car-rental agencies, the...

Lindos

Lindos is without question the most picturesque town on the island of Rhodes. Since Lindos has been designated a historic settlement, the Archaeological Society has control over all development in the village (God bless 'em ), and the traditional white stucco homes, shops, and restaurants form the most unified, classically Greek expression in the Dodecanese. Be warned, however, that Lindos is often deluged with tourists, and your first visit may be unforgettable for the wrong reasons. Avoid the...

On Foot

Since most of what you want to see and do in Athens is in the city center, it's easy to do most of your sightseeing on foot. Fortunately, Athens has created pedestrian zones in sections of the Commercial Triangle (the area bounded by Omonia, Syntagma, and Monastiraki squares), the Plaka, and Kolonaki, making strolling, window-shopping, and sightseeing infinitely more pleasant. Dionissiou Areopayitou, at the southern foot of the Acropolis, is also pedestrianized, with links to pedestrian walks...

Creditchargedebit Cards

Visa is the most widely accepted, and MasterCard is usually accepted where you see signs for Access or Eurocard. Diners Club is also increasingly recognized. American Express is less frequently accepted because it charges a higher commission and is more protective of the cardholder in disagreements. Even when credit cards are accepted, most smaller restaurants and shops are reluctant to accept payment in plastic unless the bill is above a certain amount. Many small establishments will accept...

Just Outside Thessaloniki

We're assuming that you want to spend your time in Thessaloniki, rather than staying outside the city and going back and forth. But, just in case you want to stay out of town, here are some suggestions. For those who cannot abide staying in any city in the summer, but still want to spend time in one, the Philippion, (& 2310 203-321) (in the forest of Sheih-Sou to the north of the Upper City), a sprawling, modern four-story hotel complex, renovated in 1998, is a good choice. Unfortunately,...

Where To Stay Hios Town

Chios Chandris Hotel For those who prefer a modern hotel with several resort-type facilities yet within walking distance to the town's attractions, this is the place to be. Completely renovated in 2000, it offers several of the amenities associated with beach resorts. Rooms are of standard size and decor, but there are suites and studios for those who want something a bit roomier almost all units have views overlooking the port of Chios Town. During the summer you can take your meals or drinks...

Marathon

In 490 B.C., the vastly outnumbered Athenians and their allies from the little Boeotian town of Plataea defeated the invading Persian army on the plain of Marathon, and saved Athens and much of Greece (and, some say, much of Europe) from Persian rule. In honor of their valor, the 192 Athenians who fell here were buried on the battlefield in an enormous burial mound. Beyond that, there's little to see at Marathon, as there is little to see at Gettysburg and Runnymede, but such sites are moving...

Simi

Tiny, rugged Simi is often called the jewel of the Dodecanese. Arriving by boat affords a view of pastel-colored neoclassical mansions climbing the steep hills above the broad, horseshoe-shaped harbor. Yialos is Simi's port, and Horio its old capital. The welcome absence of nontraditional buildings is due to an archaeological decree that severely regulates the style and methods of construction and restoration for all old and new buildings. Simi's long and prosperous tradition of shipbuilding,...

Beware the Bomba

You can get information and purchase tickets at Nissiotissa Tours in Naoussa (& 22840 51-480). Bars in Naoussa tend to be more sophisticated and considerably less raucous than in Parikia. Try Agnosto (no phone) for an after-dinner drink. There's also an outdoor movie theater in Naoussa, Makis Cinema (& 22840 22-221), with nightly features usually at 10pm and midnight these are often action films in English. Music-Dance Naousa (& 22840 52-284) often gives performances of...

The Best Shopping

Many places in Greece pride themselves on their needlework that it is hard to single out even a few, but among those few would be Crete, Rhodes, and Skyros. one club, just move across the street. See chapter 13. Corfu (Ionian Islands) If often-raucous nightspots are what you look for on a holiday, Corfu offers probably the largest concentration in all Greece. Most of these are at beach resorts frequented by young foreigners. Corfu town, however, also offers more sedate locales. Put simply,...

Where To Stay Dine

Most of the restaurants in Mycenae specialize in serving up set, fixed-price meals to groups. You won't starve if you eat at one of these big, impersonal roadside restaurants, but you're likely to be served a bland, lukewarm meal. You'll have better luck trying the smaller restaurants at one of the following hotels. It's also sometimes possible to avoid tour groups at the Achilleus, on the main street (& 27510 76-027), where you can eat lunch or dinner from about 12 . La Belle Helene The...

Where To Dine Expensive

Nykterida (gtff GREEK Many would nominate this as one of the finest restaurants in all Crete, especially for its setting, high on a point with spectacular nighttime views of Chania and Soudha Bay. The cuisine is traditional Cretan-Greek, but many of the dishes have an extra something. For an appetizer, try the kalazounia (cheese pies with specks of spinach) or the special dolmades (made with squash blossoms stuffed with spiced rice and served with yogurt). Any of the main courses will be well...

Santorini Thira

233km (126 nautical miles) SE of Piraeus Especially if you arrive by sea, you won't confuse Santorini with any of the other Cyclades although you might be confused to learn that it's also known as Thira. While large ships to Santorini (pop. 7,000 240km 130 nautical miles southeast of Piraeus) dock at the port of Athinios, many small ships arrive in Skala, a spectacular harbor that's part of the enormous caldera (crater) formed when a volcano blew out the island's center around 1450 B.C. To this...

Side Trips From Delphi Arachova

Arachova's main feast day is April 23, the festival of St. George, the patron saint of shepherds, celebrated with the consumption of roasted lambs and, often, folk dancing and music until the wee hours (unless Apr 23 falls during Lent, in which case the feast day is usually celebrated on the Tuesday after Easter). If you are going to be here then, be sure you have a reservation. Also be sure to wish anyone named George Chronia Polla (many more years). The mountain village of Arachova, 10km (6...

Mykonos After Dark

Mykonos has the liveliest, most abundant, and most varied nightlife in the Aegean. It's a barhopper's paradise, and you'll enjoy wandering through the maze of streets looking for the right spot and looking at everyone else looking. We're trying to suggest a few durable favorites and some new places that were popular last year. We've given phone numbers where available if you dial one of these places and get no reply, don't assume it is closed when business is brisk, phones are often not...

Side Trips From Argostoli

This is probably the preferred excursion for those who have only 1 day for a trip outside Argostoli. The end destination is Fiskardo, a picturesque port-village, which owes its appeal to the fact that it's the only locale on Kefalonia to have survived the 1953 earthquake. Its charm comes from its many surviving 18th-century structures and its intimate harbor. You can make a round-trip from Argostoli to Fiskardo in 1 day on KTEL bus line (6 ). But with a rental car, you can also detour to the...

The Dodecanese

Ancient Lindos 6 Asklepion 2 Monastery of St. John and the Cave of the Apocalypse 1 Monolithos Castle 5 Panormitis Monastery 3 Petaloudes (Valley of the Butterflies) 4 Embonas Monolithos Laerma , Apolakiao Wherever it is you want to go, whether by ferry, hydrofoil, catamaran, or excursion boat, schedules and tickets are available from Triton Holidays, 25 Plastira (& 22410 21-690 fax 22410 31-625 www.tritondmc.gr). Although travel agents throughout Rhodes city and island can issue air and sea...

Spetses After Dark

There's plenty of nightlife on Spetses, with bars, discos, and bouzouki clubs from the Dapia to the Old Harbor to Ayia Marina, and even the more remote beaches. For bars, try Socrates, in the heart of Dapia. The Anchor is more upscale, and there's the Bracera Music Bar on the yachting marina. For something a little more sedate, head to the Halcyon or the Veranda, with softer Greek music. To the west of town, in Kounoupitsa, near the popular Patralis Fish Taverna, Zorba's and Kalia are popular...

The Cave of Andiparos

To get away from all the crowds in Parikia, plan a visit to Andiparos (Opposite Paros). This islet, about a kilometer (V2 mile) off the western coast of Paros, was once connected to it by a natural causeway. In recent years, Andiparos has begun to attract its own crowds but even though you may not be able to completely escape civilization, this smaller, quieter island still has much to offer, including a huge cave full of fantastic stalactites. It was discovered on Andiparos during the time of...

What to Pack for Mount Athos

Bring sturdy shoes, long-sleeved shirts and long slacks (the monks are offended by short-sleeved shirts and shorts), a hat, insect repellent, a flashlight, reading material, any prescription or nonprescription medication you might need, a map, and the best lightweight (you will have to carry it everywhere) guide you can find. If you own the archaeologically oriented Blue Guide to Greece, you can photocopy the excellent section on Athos to bring along. One book you may enjoy reading is Robert...

More Attractions

The Alatza Imaret < < j Along with the Bezesteni, the Alatza Imaret, a former 15th-century mosque with a poorhouse, or almshouse, is one of the best-preserved Turkish buildings in Thessaloniki. Alatza means many-colored, and refers to the tiles and stones that covered the mosque in its days of glory. If you're lucky, it may be open when you visit, as exhibitions are sometimes held here. Allow half an hour if the Imaret is open. Dimitrion Sq., just off Ayiou Nikolaou, half a block north of...

Where To Stay Parikia

The port town has three basic hotel zones the agora, the harbor, and the beach. The agora is the heart of Parikia, and can get noisy accommodations in the quiet back streets are most enticing. The harborside near the windmill is a convenient and lively place, but it's often too loud for a good night's rest. The strip of hotels along Livadi beach north of the windmill, left coming from the ferry have three common features bland decor, proximity to the crowded town beach, and sea views. We...

Take a

The best place to swim is at the Arvanitia beach beneath the Palamidi. With the Bourtzi on your right, walk as far as you can along the quay until you come to the beach. highlights The Best of the Peloponnesian Folk Foundation. Exhibits from the collection of more than 25,000 items include coins, ceramics, furniture, and farm implements as well as all those costumes. The museum occupies three full floors in an elegant 18th-century house, with a shady courtyard and a welcome snack bar....

Tips Strategies for Seeing the Islands

If possible, avoid June through August unless you have a hotel reservation and think that you'd enjoy the hustle and bustle of high season. Also, from mid-July through August, boats leaving Piraeus for the islands are heavily booked, and often overbooked. It is sometimes possible to get a deck passage without a reservation, but even that can be difficult when as many as 100,000 Athenians leave Piraeus on a summer weekend. Most ships will not allow passengers to board without a ticket. If you go...

Where To Stay Apollonia

Many young Athenians vacation on Sifnos, particularly on summer weekends, when it can be virtually impossible to find a room. If you plan to be in Apollonia or Kamares during the high season, be sure to make reservations by May. If you're here off season, many of these hotels are closed, but several remain open year-round. With advance notice, the efficient Aegean Thesaurus Travel Agency (see Visitor Information, above) can usually place you in a room in a private house with your own bathroom,...

What To See Do Attractions In Kos Town

Dominating the harbor, the Castle of the Knights stands in and atop a long line of fortresses defending Kos since ancient times. What you see today was constructed by the Knights of St. John in the 15th century and fell to the Turks in 1522. Satisfying your curiosity is perhaps the only compelling reason to pay the minimal admission of 3 . The castle is a hollow shell, with nothing of interest inside that you can't imagine from the outside, except when it serves as a venue for concerts. Best to...

Travel Dynamics International

132 E. 70th St., New York, NY 10021. & 800 257-5767. This operator of small yachts offers a number of interesting itineraries that include Greek ports. The journeys, which are available in late summer and fall of 2003 and 2004, are tailored to be unique, visiting some of the smaller and less known ports, and are complemented by high-quality onboard educational programs. The Corinthian (built in 2002 92 passengers, 3,000 GRTs) features 37 staterooms, all of which have ocean views,...

In The New Town Environs Expensive

Kioupia GREEK Rated by the London Guardian as one of the world's 10 best restaurants, this unique place offers an exquisite gourmet experience that you will long treasure. Kioupia was founded in 1972 by the creative and artistic Michael Koumbiadis, called by Athenian society the Colossus of Rhodes, who has discovered the true harmony in the taste of Greek traditional cuisine, using the best of local ingredients and village recipes. In this elegantly decorated, rustic old house, the meal begins...

Holy Week Celebrations

Orthodox Easter, a time of extraordinary festivities in Greece, usually falls one or more weeks after Easter in the West inquire ahead The Good Friday exodus from Athens is truly amazing, and you can remain and enjoy the deserted city or, if you're fortunate and have made reservations, because Greeks take up most travel facilities you can be among the celebrants in any town or village. Holy Week is usually marked by impressive solemn services and processions serious feasting on roasted lamb,...

Shopping A To Z

Warning If you're hoping to take home an antique perhaps an icon or a wood carving keep in mind that not everything sold as an antique is genuine, and that it's illegal to take antiquities and icons more than 100 years old out of Greece without a hard-to-obtain export license. If you're looking for first editions, prints showing 19th-century Athens, a silver sword, or amber worry beads, try Antiqua, 2-4 Leoforos Vas. Sofias, off Syntagma Square (( 210 323-2220). This is one of Athens's oldest...

The Shopping Scene

You may find a copy of the monthly magazines Athens Today and Now in Athens, both of which have a shopping section, in your hotel room sometimes copies are also available at the Greek National Tourism Organization, 2 Amerikis. Keep in mind that most of the restaurants and shops featured pay for the privilege. You're in luck shopping in Athens, because almost everything you'll probably want to buy can be found in the central city, bounded by Omonia, Syntagma, and Monastiraki squares. This is...

Koukaki Makriyanni Near The Acropolis

Keep in mind that with all the Makriyanni Koukaki hotels, you'll be doing some extra walking to get to most places you want to visit. Divani-Palace Acropolis Just 3 blocks south of the Acropolis, in a quiet residential neighborhood (there's a handy SPAR supermarket a block away at Parthenos 4, as well as a shop at Parthenos 7 that sells American and English newspapers), the Divani Palace Acropolis does a brisk tour business, but is welcoming to independent travelers. The blandly decorated...

Beaches

Skiathos is famous for its beaches, and we'll cover the most important ones briefly, proceeding clockwise from the port. The most popular beaches are west of town along 12km (8 miles) of coastal highway. At most of them, you can rent an umbrella and two chairs for about 15 per day. The first, Megali Ammos, is the sandy strip below the popular package-tour community of Ftelia so close to town and packed with the groups, it probably won't appeal to most. Vassilias and Achladias are also crowded...

Rhodes City After Dark

Rhodes by night is brimming with energy. Outside of Athens, Rhodes claims one of the most active nighttime scenes in Greece. Granted, some of that energy is grounded in the resort complexes north of the city, but there is enough to go around. Your own good sense is as good a guide as any in this ever-changing scene. In a city as compact as Rhodes, it's best to follow the lights and noise, not worrying about getting a little lost. When you decide to call it quits, shout down a taxi to bring you...

Tps Security Crime

Security has become a major concern of all recent Olympics, and the games in Athens in 2004 will undeniably heighten such concern. Greek authorities, working closely with international security experts and other national police forces, plan to install advanced security technology and to have a specially trained security force of 45,000 personnel working round the clock. Greece's homegrown November 17 terrorist organization, once potentially threatening, has apparently been stamped out, and...

City Layout

As you begin to explore Athens, you may find it helpful to look up to the Acropolis, west of Syntagma Square, and Mount Likavitos (Lycabettus), to the northeast. You can see both Acropolis and Likavitos, whose marble lower slopes give way to pine trees and a summit crowned with a small white church, from most parts of the city. Think of central Athens as an almost perfect equilateral triangle, with its points at Syntagma (Constitution) Square, Omonia (Harmony) Square, and Monastiraki (Little...

The Vale of Tempe Ambelakia

326km (202 miles) N of Athens 27km (16 miles) N of Larissa The Vale of Tempe ( , a steep-sided 8km (5-mile) gorge between Mounts Olympus and Ossa has been famous since antiquity as a beauty spot. According to legend, this is where Apollo caught a glimpse of the lovely maiden Daphne, bathing in the Peneios River. When Apollo pursued Daphne, she cried out to the gods on nearby Olympus to save her which they did, by turning her into a laurel tree (daphne in Greek). Apollo, who didn't give up...

Single Travelers

Many people prefer traveling alone, and for independent travelers, solo journeys offer infinite opportunities to make friends and meet locals. Unfortunately, if you like resorts, tours or cruises, you're likely to get hit with a single supplement to the base price. Single travelers can avoid these supplements, of course, by agreeing to room with other single travelers on the trip. An even better idea is to find a compatible roommate before you go from one of the many roommate locator agencies....

Far Wide

120 Sylvan Avenue, Englewood Cliffs, NJ 07632. & 800 447-5667. www.zeustours.com. This 50-plus-year-old firm represents several lines, including the yacht cruises known as Zeus Cruises, Galileo Cruises, Harmony Cruises and the large ocean liners of Royal Olympic Cruises, First European Cruises, Orient Lines and the sailing ships of Star Clippers. The yachts, the Zeus I and Zeus II (built in 1995 40 passengers), offer a casual, reasonably priced, soft-adventure cruise experience with an...

Where To Dine

It's a good idea to keep in mind that fish is priced by the kilo at most restaurants the price varies from catch to catch, so it's a good idea to check the price before you order. Estiatorion Economou GREEK A reader suggested this portside taverna with a dark-blue canopy about midway along the waterfront, and several visits have confirmed its high quality. We recommend the lemony fish soup and grilled fish there are also meat dishes. Grilled local lobster is sometimes available expect to pay as...

What To See Do Attractions

The Archaeological Museum This is the world's premier collection of art and artifacts from the Minoan civilization. Although many of its most spectacular objects are from Knossos, it does have finds from other sites. The variety of objects, styles, techniques, and materials will amaze all who have not previously focused on the Minoans. Among the most prized objects are the snake goddesses from Knossos, the Phaestos Disc with its still undeciphered inscription , the bee pendant from Mallia, the...

Side Trips From Corinth Isthmia

Isthmia was one of the four places in Greece where Panhellenic Games were held the others being Delphi, Olympia, and Nemea . According to legend, the games here were founded in 582 B.C. in honor of a certain Meliertes, whose body was carried ashore by a dolphin at the very moment that the Delphic Oracle had revealed that a harsh famine would end only when the Corinthians honored someone who had died at sea. The Isthmian Games took place every 2 years at the Sanctuary of Poseidon, of which...

Restaurants Tavernas Expensive

Aigli rfp GREEK CONTINENTAL Established in 1992 in an exquisitely restored Turkish hamam bathhouse , this is certainly the most beautiful restaurant in Thessaloniki. Indoors, one dines beneath the high double domes of the former bathhouse outdoors, in the gardened grounds of an old, open-air cinema that sometimes shows films in summer at 9 and 11pm. The Aigli used to boast the best haute cuisine in Thessaloniki, but the management has recently decided to shift its emphasis from cooking to...

Parks Gardens

Kolonaki Square Athens

In addition to the parks and gardens listed here, see Especially for Kids, below. The National Garden, between Leoforos Amalias and Irodou Attikou, south of Vas. Sofias, was once the royal family's palace garden. Now a public park, the area combines a park, a garden, and a small, rather sad zoo with shady trees, benches, and small lakes and ponds with ducks, swans, and a few peacocks. There are several cafes tucked away in the garden, and you can also picnic here. In summer 2000, the elegant...

Finds National Marine Park

One of the more unusual attractions of a stay on Skopelos could be a day's excursion to the National Marine Park off the adjacent island of Alonissos where you are guaranteed to see some of the many dolphins that frequent this protected area. The trip also includes a stop at the islet of Psathoura, with a chance to dive into a sunken city, and a visit into the Blue Grotto of Alonissos. Any travel agency in Skopelos will be able to arrange for such an excursion on one of several licensed ships....

Where To Stay Vathi

Hotel Paradise Despite a central location just off the paralia and a block away from the bus station, the walled garden and pool terrace here seem a world away from the traffic and dust of Vathi. Drinks and simple Greek food are served all day at the poolside bar the pool invites lingering, with lounge chairs and umbrellas for sunning and shaded tables for a meal or drinks. All guest rooms have balconies, although the views aren't great bathrooms are small, but they do have full tubs. You...

Three Hill Towns On The Rugged North Coast

Amidst the densely wooded valleys, cascading streams, and terraced slopes of Samos's Platanakia Region, many hidden villages were settled as an attempt to evade the pirates who repeatedly ravaged all settlements visible from the sea. Three of the most picturesque of the surviving hill towns in this region are Manolates Vourliotes, about 20km 12 2 miles west of Vathi and Stavrinides not far from Manolates . Manolates is a 4km 2 2-mile drive uphill from the coast road. The village was until...

Day Trip To The Mastic Villages Piryi Mesta Olimbi

The most interesting day trip on Hios is the excursion to the mastic villages in the southern part of the island, which offer one of the best examples of medieval town architecture in all of Greece. Mastic is a gum derived from the resin of the mastic tree, used in candies, paints, perfumes, and medicines. It was a source of great wealth for these towns in the Middle Ages, and is still produced in small quantities. All the towns were originally fortified, with an outer wall formed by an...

Where To Dine In Rhodes City In The Old Town

The Old Town is thick with tavernas, restaurants, and fast-food nooks, all doing their best to lure you into their lair, which in some cases is just where you want to be. The more brazen their overtures, the bolder you must be in holding to your course. Don't imagine, however, that all Old Town restaurants are tourist traps. Many Rhodians consider this area to have some of the best food on the island, particularly for fish. And by the way, don't even think of trying to drive to these places...

What To See Do Shopping

There's no shop on the rock that's truly outstanding, but those along Ritsos have thus far avoided the infestation of T-shirts and cheap museum reproductions so common elsewhere. Shops most with nice pottery, glass, and jewelry seem to come and go here with some alacrity, but one that's been here a long time is just inside Monemvassia's gate Costas Lekakis has a good selection of books in English, including R. Klaus and U. Steinmuller's excellent guide Monemvassia 6 . Ioanna Angelatou's shop,...

Skiathos After Dark

The Aegean Festival presents nightly performances of ancient Greek tragedies and comedies, traditional music and dance, modern dance and theater, and visiting international troupes. Festival events take place from late June to early October in the outdoor theater at the Bourtzi Cultural Center, on the promontory on the harbor. The center itself, open daily from 10am to 2pm and 5 30 to 10pm, hosts art exhibits in its interior. Performances begin at 9 30pm and usually cost 15 call amp 24270...

Where To Dine Hios Town

Hios Marine Club GREEK This good, simple taverna serves the usual Greek dishes, pasta, grilled meats, and fish. Don't be put off by the ugly yellow-and-white concrete facade the sign in front reads simply RESTAURANT-FRESCA PSARIA. It's on the bay at the edge of town, just south of the port, 50m 164 ft. beyond the Hotel Chandris. 1 Nenitousi. amp 22710 23-184. Main courses 3.50 -13 . MC,V. Daily noon-2am. Hotzas Taverna GREEK Hotzas is a small taverna that offers simple, well-prepared food. It's...

Where To Dine In Skala Hora

The culinary scene in Skala and Hora is at present surprisingly unpredictable. There are no true standout restaurants in Skala and Hora, though there are many that will not disappoint. In Hora, on the path to the Monastery of St. John, you'll find the Pirgos the Balcony View facing Skala Harbor the Patmian House and following signs from the monastery Vagelis in Plateia Theofakosta Central Square . Vagelis enjoys lovely views of the south island. In Skala, you will want to browse for yourself,...

Menu Terms

Arn avgol mono arn so vlas arn yiouv tsi astak s ladol mono bakali ro skordali barbo nia sk ras bri m briz la chirin briz la moschar sia chori tiki sal ta ch rta dolm des dom tes yemist s m r zi eks hiko gar des village salad Greek salad to Americans salad of minced caper leaves and onion pretzel-like roll covered with sesame seeds spiced sausages round donut center like pastries that are deep-fried, then drenched with honey and topped with powdered sugar and cinnamon eggplant salad...

Active Travelers

Increasing numbers of travelers of all ages are seeking more active ways to experience Greece. This is to be encouraged, but we advise everyone to investigate closely just what is involved the level of difficulty, that is. BICYCLING Increasing numbers of foreigners are choosing to travel in Greece by bicycle, and those interested in the possibility can get more information from the Greek Cycling Federation, the National Velodrome, Marousi 210 689-3403 . Trekking Hellas, 7 Filellinon, 10557...

Chania After Dark

Chania's nightlife need not be limited to heading for a club bar disco packed with young people or walking around the harbor and Old Town the ritual known in Greece as the volta. Instead, wander into the back alleys and see both the old Venetian and Turkish remains and the modern tourist enterprises. Sit in a quayside cafe and enjoy a coffee or drink, or treat yourself to a ride in a horse-drawn carriage down at the harbor. Or at the other extreme, stroll through the new town and be surprised...

Tips For the Insider

From mid-July through the end of August, boats leaving Piraeus for the islands are heavily booked, and often overbooked. It is sometimes possible to get deck passage without a reservation, but even that can be difficult when as many as 100,000 passengers are leaving Piraeus on a summer weekend as was common in July and 2002 . Most ships will not allow passengers to board without a ticket. If possible, purchase your tickets in advance. And since schedules depend on the weather, and sailings are...

Useful Words Phrases

When you're asking for or about something and have to rely on single words or short phrases, it's an excellent idea to use sas parakalo to introduce or conclude almost anything you say. Aerothromio Aftokinito Leoforos Kakos, -ki, -ko Trapeza I'm sorry, but I don't speak Greek well . I don't understand, please repeat it. Masculine ending -os, feminine ending -a or -i, neuter ending -o. Remember, ch should be pronounced as in Scottish loch or German ich, not as in the word church.

Walk Priona To Litochoro

GETTING THERE By Bus Four buses that stop at the Litochoro station amp 23520 81-271 run daily from Athens to Katerini seven buses per day run from Athens to Larissa, from which there is frequent service to Litochoro. All buses leave Athens from the station at 260 Liossion amp 210 831-7059 . There are at least eight buses a day from Thessaloniki to Litochoro. By Train There are frequent daily trains from Athens to Larissa, and from Thessaloniki to Larissa from Larissa, you can continue to...

Climbing Mount Olympus

If you plan to climb Olympus , you will want to check with the EOS see above and probably get a copy of Marc Dubin's Trekking in Greece and the excellent Road Edition map of Olympus no. 31 6 . You should not attempt the climb alone weather here can change in an instant from pleasant to life-threatening. In July and August of 1998, high winds whipped the flames of a serious fire that burnt portions of Olympus's magnificent forests. Purists will want to begin the ascent at the rapidly developing...

Where To Dine In Town Expensive

If you're in a celebratory mood, you might also consider Chambor, 71 Guilford amp 26610 39-031 certainly a cut above your average Greek restaurant but much of what you pay goes for the elaborate settings and presentation. Venetian Well MIDDLE EASTERN INTERNATIONAL GREEK This remains our top pick in Corfu town. Diners sit at a candlelit table in a rather austere little square with a Venetian wellhead 1699 and a church opposite. When the weather changes, guests sit in a stately room with a mural....

Quick Bites in Syntagma

In general, Syntagma Square is not known for good food, but there are a number of places in the area to get a snack. The Apollonion Bakery, 10 Nikis, and the Elleniki Gonia, 10 Karayioryi Servias, make sandwiches to order and sell croissants, both stuffed and plain. Ariston is a small chain of zaharoplastia confectioners with a branch at the corner of Karayioryi Servias and Voulis just off Syntagma Square selling snacks as well as pastries. Floca is another excellent pastry-shop chain look in...

Insider

If you do any window-shopping in Athens, you ll soon see how expensive most things are, except during the January and August sales. Not surprisingly, Athens s poshest clothing stores are in Kolonaki. Much of what you ll see is American or European and carries a hefty import duty most of the rest is Greek designer wear. Good streets to browse include Voukourestiou, Kanari, Milioni, Tsakalof, Patriarchou Ioakim, and perhaps the most expensive street in town, Anagnostopoulou where Versace, Ferre,...