5'ful Livezii

Warthe Hill

Piafa 029



To Poiana Bramow (25km)

To Brextans (300m)



"Str Democratiei


Erel«rrn 2 C3

(Wfiilimrs 3 B4

Nrl Club 5 Ci

Klh Council 6 A3

i .hhmh Democratic Forum . 8 85

feflilp Aldus 10 C4

ybffliin George Cojbuc.. 11 C3

Wtririri Univcrsitas 12 B3

Ml Office . 13 C2

fWephone Centre 14 C2

All Museum 15 C2

Hp Church 16 B4

HiIt Tower 17 A4

jl(Wk<irniths' Bastion 18 84

Äm|<iv Historical Museum (see 29)

MI'n»Kraphic Museum 19 C2

HeruiV Cemetery. 20 C2

Richer House 21 84 Mi-morial to Victims of 1989

Involution 22 C2

Muirvenilor House Memorial

Museum 23 B3

Hi mirinian Lycée 24 B5

Romanian School Museum 25 B6

Saint Nicholas' Cathedral 26 66

ScheiGate 27 B5

Synagogue 28 84

Trumpeter's Tower 29 B3

Weavers' Bastion & Museum 30 C5

White Tower. 31 A3

Aro Palace (see 33)

Beke Guesthouse 32 C4

Hotel Aro Palace 33 B2

Hotel Aro Sport 34 B2

Hotel Capitol 35 C2

Hotel Coroana 36 C2

Hotel Postävarul. 37 C2

Kismet Dao V;lla. 38 B6

EATING SU (pp92-3)

Cerbul Carpa{in (see 21)

Cofetäria Modern 39 B3

Fruit & Vegetable Market 40 D2

Ischia Tour 41 64

La Republique 42 C3

Luca Supermarket 43 D2

Old Centre Bistro 44 C2

Pepper Jack's. 45 A5

Pioana Soarelui patisserie 46 D2

Pi7za Roma. 47 B4


Aquarium Disco (see 56)

Festival 39 48 B3

Kron-Art Gallery & Café. 49 C3 Opium 50 B3 Rex Café. 51 C3 Saloon 52 63


Agentie de Teatralä 53 B3

Gheorghe Dima State

Philharmonic (see 54)

Puppet Theatre 54 B4

Royal Cinema 55 B3

Sicä Alexandrescu Drama Theatre 56 D1

Student Culture House 57 A2

SHOPPING Q (pp93-4)

Arti^ana 58 C2

Ascent 59 B4

Doua Roti 60 C3

Galerie de Artà 61 B3

Sport Virus 62 B4

Star Department Store 63 D2


Agence de Volaj CFR 64 C2

Bus Stop for Buses to

Poiana Brajov 65 A2

Hertz 66 D1

Tâmpa Cable Car (Telecablna) 67 D4


District Council 68 C2

Municipal Council 69 C2

I0am-6pm Tue-Sun), in which the history of I lie Saxon guilds is recounted.

Opposite is the Renaissance Hirscher House (built 1539-45), also known as the 'Mer-• hunts House'. It was thoughtfully built by Apollonia Hirscher, the widow of Bra§ov mayor Lucas Hirscher, so that merchants tould do business without getting rained mi. Today it shelters the Cerbul Carpatin restaurant (p92). On the square's western hide stands the charming Mure§enilor House Memorial Museum (Muzeul Memorial Casa Mure§enilor; IT! 477 864; admission €0.15; ®9am-3pm Mon-Ifl), which honours the family of Jacob Mure^an, the first editor of the Gazeta Transylvania, a political newspaper published in I lie 19th century. There's a touching collec-lion of personal letters and objects.

Bra§ov's main landmark is the Black Church (Uiserica Neagra; adult/child €1/0.50; ® 10am-5pm Mon-Srit, mass 10am Sun), the largest Gothic church between Vienna and Istanbul and still used by German Lutherans today. Built between 1383 and 1477, it looms forebodingly just south of the square. Its name comes from its appearance after a fire in 1689. The original statues on the exterior of the apse are now inside and some 120 fabulous Turkish rugs (gifts from merchants who returned from shopping sprees in the southern Ottoman lands) hang from the balconies. Considering it's a Lutheran church, it is incredibly picturesque. Worshippers drop coins through the wooden grates in the floor and hope for the best.

The church's organ, built by Buchholz of Berlin in 1839, has 4000 pipes and is believed to be the only Buchholz preserved in its original form. Since 1891, organ recitals have been held in the church throughout July and August, at 6pm on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday (€1.50). Equally impressive is the church's bell; weighing in at seven tonnes, it's the largest in Romania.


Northeast of the square, the pedestrianised Str Republicii provides respite from the traffic that detracts from the charm of the rest of the Old Town. Along and around this street you'll find boutiques, restaurants, bakeries and the occasional gem, such as the Kron Art Gallery (see p93), an enchanting space hosting changing exhibits. At the promenade's northern end is a memorial wooden cross commemorating victims of the December 1989 revolution. In the Heroes' Cemetery opposite, a memorial slab lists those who died.

Head west to B-dul Eroilor, where the Art Museum (g 444 384; B-dul Eroilor 21; adult/child €0.40/ 0.20; (310am-6pm Tue-Sun) and the Ethnographic Museum (@ 443 990; B-dul Eroilor21; adult/child €0.40/ 0.20; ® 10am-6pm Tue-Sun) adjoin each other.

The former has a permanent pottery and decorative arts exhibition, a national art gallery of Romanian paintings from the 18th century to contemporary times, and temporary exhibitions. Silver crafted in Brasov during the 16th century, fur and sheepskin coats, Saxon cloth costumes and Romanian girdles are among the exhibits in the ethnographic museum, which also has an excellent selection of souvenirs and crafts for sale.


The western section of the defensive wall begins south of B-dul Eroilor along Str Dupa Ziduri. Built in the 15th century as protection against the Turks, it was 12m high and 3km long. Part of this medieval wall remains, though most was taken down in the 19th century to allow for the city's expansion. Seven bastions were also raised around the city at the most exposed points, each one defended by a guild whose members, pending danger, tolled their bastion bell. The Blacksmiths'Bastion (Bastionul Fierar-ilor) is at the southern end of Str Dupa Ziduri. To the west of the wall lie the Black Tower (Turnul Neagru) and the White Tower (Turnul Alba).

Follow the city wall southeast, past Cath-erine'sGate (Poarta Ecaterinei), buñt in 1559 (the only original medieval city gate to survive intact), and the Schei Gate (Poatra Schei), built in 1828, to the 16th-century Weavers' Bastion (Bastionul Tesátorilor; Str Castelul). Visit the Weavers' Bastion Museum (Muzeul Bastionul Tesátorilor; ©472 368; adult/child €0.40/ 0.20; ® 10am-4pm Tue-Sun), with a fascinating scale model of 17th-century Brasov created in 1896.

Above the Weavers' Bastion is a pleasant promenade through the forest overlooking Brasov. Halfway along is the Tampa cable car (Telecabina Támpa; §H 443 732; adult/child return €0.80/0.40; S 10am-6pm Tue-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat-Sun), offering stunning views from the top of Mt Támpa.

Bra§ov's original defensive fortress was built on this mount, but when Vlad Tepe$ attacked Brasov (1458-60), the citadel was dismantled and 40 merchants were impaled on top of Mt Támpa. You can hike to the top following zigzag trails from the cable-car station (one hour, red triangles) or from Aleea Brediceanu opposite Le Bastion café

(yellow triangles). It's worth the extra bead', of sweat for the view, and remember, those poor merchants had a much tougher time on the mountain!

In 1524 a new wooden citadel (Cetate; H 41/ 614; admission free; ® 1 lam-midnight) was built in Brasov, on top of Citadel Hill, though the stone wall ruins you now see are from the 16th and 17th centuries. Today the citadel houses two good beer patios, a so-so disco and an expensive restaurant. Steps lead up to it from Str Nicolae Iorga, on the north side of Heroes' Cemetery. It's also acces sible by car.


In Saxon Brasov, Romanians were nol allowed to enter the walled city but were banished to the Schei quarter in the south west. Entry to this quarter from the walled city was marked by the Schei Gate (Str Porta Schei). Passing through it, the sober rows of Teutonic houses change to the small, simpler houses of the Romanian settlement. Almost immediately to the east you come to Str Storii, the narrowest street in Brasov. Further south along Str Prundului is the first Romanian lyceum, which opened in Brasov in 1850 and was where the first Romanian opera, Crai Nou (New Moon), written by Ciprian Porumbescu (1853-83), was performed in 1882.

Continue south to Piata Unirii and the black-spired Orthodox St Nicholas' Cathedral (St Nicolae din Scheii; ® 6am-9pm), first built in wood in 1392 and replaced with a stone church in 1495 by the Wallachian prince Neagoe Basarab (r. 1512-21), who supported the Romanian community in Saxon-dominated Transylvania. In 1739 the church was enlarged and its interior heavily embellished. Beside the church is the first Romanian School Museum (1495; @443 879; adult/child €0.40/0.20; ® 9am-5pm Tue-Sun), which is more interesting than it sounds. This was for centuries one of the few centres of learning for the Romanian people; a printing press that opened here in 1556 produced some of the first books written in Romanian.

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