I mi might just start to believe Romanians' iliilui to an Italian heritage in this lively I'III century Saxon city. People seem to tnnle more here than in other parts of the niiinlry, in what is arguably Romania's prettiest and most pleasant city. The main lipdcstrian drag channels an almost Mediten anean flow of life at all hours, as party-jjiicrs, window shoppers and café culturists Intersect; even Bra^ov seems cool and reti-i rut in comparison. Anyone who appreciates Saxon old towns will find heaven here (M medieval charm perseveres. Though there are more buildings awaiting repair here than in Bra$ov or Sighi^oara, the meandering, narrow, cobblestone streets twisting out ni view, the picturesque courtyards, even the crumbling stone staircases provide an i'phemerally romantic ambience.

Founded on the site of the former Roman village of Cibinium, Sibiu (Hermannstadt to the Saxons, Nagyszében to Hungarians) has always been one of the leading cities of Transylvania. During the peak of Saxon influence, Sibiu had 19 guilds, each representing a different craft, within the sturdy city walls protected by 39 towers and four bastions. Under the Habsburgs from 1703

to 1791 and again from 1849 to 1867, Sibiu served as the seat of the Austrian governors of Transylvania. In 2000 Johannis Klaus of the German Democratic Forum was elected mayor and has remained hugely popular ever since, placing the city once again under German leadership.

Sibiu's remaining 5500 German-speaking Saxons celebrate Maifest on 1 May, when they flock to Dumbrava forest for pagan frolicking and beer drinking. The town also hosts an International Astra Film Festival (www.astrafilm.ro) every second May and an excellent International Theatre Festival (www.sibfest.ro) in early June.

This is one of the most wheelchair-friendly cities in Romania, with most pavements, staircases and hotels having ramps.


The heart of historic Sibiu is the three interlocking squares, Piatas Mare, Huet and Mica. The pedestrianised Str Nicolae Baulcescu is the main artery running northeast into Piata Mare. The lower Old Town lies to the north of the main squares.


There are several fold-out city maps available at hotels and bookshops, the most detailed of which is Amco's Sibiu City Plan (€1.85). The free biweekly §apte Seri (www.sapteseri.ro) is a helpful Romanian listings booklet.



Libraria Humanitas (@ 211 434; Str Nicolae Balcescu 16; ® 10am-7pm Mon-Fri, 11am-6pm Sat) Your best bet in town, with a great selection of maps, local-interest books and Romanian CDs and CD-ROMs. Libraria Schiller (® 0722-196 932; Plata Mare 7; ® 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1 pm Sat) Sharing space with the tourist information centre, this is another good source for (mainly German) maps, guides and history books about the city and environs.


Salvamont (@ 216 477,0745-140 144; Str Nicolae Balcescu 9; ® 8am-4pm Mon-Fri) Provides a 24-hour emergency rescue service for hikers and skiiers in trouble.


Click (@ 212 468; Str Ocnei 11; per hr €0.40; ® 9-2am Mon-Sat, 2pm-2am Sun)

sii(ti(iHH«i ii MM, iriH',', Mi III I lupttJI; peí hr til tit 1 Hlii I

I Uihnlill '. fc i III t(>nAt CI NTRES Ammliaii i «1111« Al I Unary I vr 710 062, extension i i ii 'luí vi» tniid ill) .mil German Cultural Centre &

lilniiiy I Tr .'In (Hi,', extension 123) These two are located in ilie '..inic building lust across from the British Council. Ilrltllh Council Centre & Library (@ 211 056; be slblii(i«lblu.rdsnet.ro; B-dul Victoriei 5-7; ®1 9pm Mon & Thu, 9am-3pm Tue, Wed & Fri) This lenlre organises events and has a reading room. French Cultural Centre (@ 218 287; Str Mitropoliei 3) Inside the Student Culture House (Casa de Cultura Studenteascá).

MEDICAL SERVICES Farmasib (Str Nicolae Bálcescu 53; ® 7am-11pm Mon-Fri, 8am-10pm Sat-Sun) Nippur-Pharmacie (Str Nicolae Balcescu 5; ® 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat)


ATMs are located all over the centre as well as in most hotels. The Banca Comercial! Romana (Str Nicolae Balcescu 11; ® 8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-12.30pm Sat) changes travellers cheques and gives cash advances.


Central post office (Str Mitropoliei 14; ® 7am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat) Telephone office (Str Nicolae Balcescu 13; ® 7am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, noon-7.30pm Sat)


For questions related to sporting activities in and around Paltini§, contact SC Paltini§ (pi 12).

Bulevard Travel Agency (Is) 218125; Piata Unirii 10; ® 9am-6pm Mon-Fri) Inside the Hotel Bulevard, It offers some pricey local tours and tours to Maramure; but specialises in sending locals abroad. Tourist Information Centre ((if) 211110; www.sibiu ,ro; Piata Mare 7; ® 9am-5pm Mon-Sat, lOam-lpm Sun) A great first stop. One of the few official tourist offices in the country, it has an ace, can-do staff who can help with anything, including puzzling out Byzantine bus schedules. There are photo books of regional hotels and guesthouses to make choosing a place to stay easier.

Sights & Activities


The expansive Piata Mare was the centre of the old walled city. A good start for exploring the city is to climb to the I up of the former Council Tower, built in ISHH which links Piata Mare with its smallei sister square, Piata Mica. The view of the Fagara$ Mountains beckoning to the south is superb.

Other buildings of note include the li.ii oque Roman Catholic Cathedral, built between 1726 and 1733 by a Jesuit order. In from ill this is a large memorial statue to the peopli who fought in the 1848 peasant uprising The Brukenthal Museum ((D 217 691; Piata M.nr 4-5; adult/child €1/0.50; ® 9am-5pm Tue-Sun) is lite oldest and likely finest art gallery in Ro mania. Founded in 1817, the museum is in the baroque palace (1785) of Baron Samuel Brukenthal (1721-1803), a former Austrian governor. Apart from paintings, there arc excellent archaeological, folk-art and sil verware collections. Brukenthal's original library is intact.

Perhaps the square's most impressive building, however, is the Banca Agricola ,tl Piata Mare 2. Just west of here is the lovely Primaria Municipiului from 1470, now the City History Museum (@218 143; Str Mitropoliei 1 adult/child €0.80/0.40; ® 10am-5pm Tue-Sun), whieli contains further exhibits from Brukenthal'1. palace.

Nearby, on Piata Huet, is the Gothic Evan gelical Church (built 1300-1520; ® 11am-3pm Mon-Sat, services Sun), its great five-pointed tower visible from afar. Don't miss the four magnificenl baroque funerary monuments in the uppei nave, and the 1772 organ with 6002 pipes (it's Romania's largest). The tomb of Mihne-a Voda eel Rau (Prince Mihnea the Bad), son of Vlad TePe5> is in the closed-off section behind the organ. This prince, who ruleel Wallachia from 1507 to 1510, was murdered on the square in front of the church after at tending a service. A fresco of the Crucifixion (1445) is up in the sanctuary.

Other standouts here include the 13th century staircase passage on the square's west side, and the 18th-century Staircase Tower (Turnul Scarilor) on the north side.

Piata Mica is small and quaint, its build ings a muted rainbow of pretty pastel col ours. The wonky stairway at its eastern end leads down to Piata Aurarilor and maze of picturesque, narrow, cobblestone streets. The Pharmaceutical Museum (®218 191, Piata Mica 26; adult/child €0.60/0.30; ® 10am-6pm Tue-Sun) has a small collection of antique drug jars hi.I i rcepy medical tools. The Franz Binder Miimuin of World Ethnology ( Si 218 195; Plata Mica

II nliill/ihild €0.80/0.40; ® 10am-6pmTue-Sun) has a jtniiiiinent display called 'Culture and Art til llir Peoples of the World', which includes in I nyptian mummy.

I h iiding northeast from Piata Mare along

III Avram Iancu, you come to the Ursuline Ihuuli Hounded by Dominican monks in lilt1 15th century, it was later transformed lulu ,i school, then turned over to Ursuline nun» In 1728.


I n leach the Lower Town from Piata Mica, tmi can walk along the road that goes iinilcr the Iron Bridge (1859). The bridge's iili 1 name is 'Liar's Bridge' after the tricky Hint hunts who met here to trade and the killing lovers who declared their 'undying' IllVr on it. Yeah, right! The staircase next to lIn- bridge leads to the Lower Town, as does lilt' staircase passage off Piata Huet, which "Hits a picturesque slice of the old town iviill and several arches to walk under.

While the Lower Town has fewer sights lull se, it makes for a great strolling area. Ili ir you can see many houses sporting eyeball-looking windows popping out of ml lilcd rooftops, a style particular to Sibiu. I in banting courtyards and decorated gar-it|tr doors and gates are also plentiful here. I Ins is a less touristy area where you can liliNcrve 'real life'; second-hand stores and irp.iir shops stand next to patisseries, and lluwcrpots stand carefully placed on crum-lillng window panes.


Ml Mitropoliei extends southwestwards li om Piata Huet. The street's standout is the I'106 Orthodox Cathedral (Str Mitropoliei 35), a miniature copy of Istanbul's Hagia Sofia, with all the Byzantine bells and whistles you i mild shake a minaret at. The street is lined with memorial plaques to Romanian not-iililes who stayed there however briefly. The plaque at No 19 honours Transylvania's Mcmorandumists of 1892, the leaders of the Komanian National Party who addressed a memorandum to the emperor Franz Joseph In Vienna calling for an end to discrimination against Romanians. In apt response, 29 ill Iheir members were convicted of agitating against the state and imprisoned.

The influential Transylvanian Association for Romanian Literature & Culture, known as Astra, was founded in 1861 at Str Mitropoliei 20, in protest at the intense Magyarisation of Transylvania in the mid-19th century. Astra's nationalist calls for Romanians to stand up for their liberty and identity were voiced in Tribuna, Transylvania's first Romanian newspaper, written and printed in Sibiu from 1884. The group is memorialised by Parcul Astra, the quiet park near the end of the street.

Southeast of here, Str Cetatii lines a section of the old city walls, constructed during the 16th century. As in Bra§ov, different guilds protected each of the 39 towers -there's the Linenmakers' Tower, the Potters' Tower and the Barbers' Tower. Walk northeast up Str Cetatii, past the Thick Tower, which once housed Sibiu's first theatre. The Natural History Museum (§218 191; Str Cetatii 1; adult/child €0.80/0.40; ® 10am-5pm Tue-Sat) dates from 1849 and has an average collection of stuffed beasties.

The Haller Bastion stands at the north-easternmost end of Piata Onofreiu, the continuation of Str Cetatii. The bastion is named after the 16th-century city mayor Petrus Haller, who had the red-brick tower built with double walls in 1551. When Sibiu was hit by the plague, holes were drilled through the walls to enable corpses to be evacuated more quickly from the city. The bastion was consequently dubbed the 'gate of corpses'.


South of the centre, close to the university, is the Museum of Hunting Arms & Trophies (Muzeul de Arme §i Trofee de Vanatoare; l§217 873; Str Jcoala de Inot 4; adult/child €0.60/0.30; S9am-5pm Tue-Sun), which has a large collection of stuffed deer heads and other remnants of animals sure to make vegetarians feel faint. For fans only. At the southern end of §coala de Inot is the 21-hectare Sub Arini Park, filled with tree-lined avenues and beautifully laid-out flowerbeds. The Complex Natatie Olimpia is also here, complete with swimming pool, canoeing and rowing facilities, and tennis courts. There is also a Municipal Stadium, where Sibiu's football team plays.

Highly recommended is a trip to the Museum of Traditional Folk Civilization (Muzeul Civilizatiei Populare Traditionale Astra; g 242 599; Calea


Piata Aurarilor


Piata Cibm lancu

24 Piata ®29 Mica

Piata Huet

Piata Mare

Piata Armelor

To Airport (5km); Marginimea Sibiului; Alba lulia (71km)

Parcul /y Astra'

Piafa Unirii

To Hotel Pare (250m); Hotel Silva (250m); Sub Armi Park (300m); Stadium (300m) /

To Museum of Traditional Folk Civilisation (5km); loo (5km)'; R5$nari (12 km); Paltlni$ (32km)

To Brasov (144km)

To Olympic


iiitiHl. Mil Centre & Library 1 A5

Khi* a 1 iomerdala Romans 2 B3

ptttsli CiOUncil Centre &

Illnmy 3 A5

* inl Travel Agency (see 35)

Hi 4 B2

fiflimi III 5 B4

iinn li ( ultural Centre 6 A4

- Cultural Centre &

itfiiAiln Humanitas 7 B4

^K Schiller (see 14)

ll'l'l-iii I'liarm Pharmacie 8 C3

Hfofllcc 9 B3

^Hone Office 13 C4

iS-lll Memorial Statue...

Illlli it Agricola

Imtrnlhal Museum flly HKlory Museum i mini il Tower

»angelical Church. f«|iluit'f Sport


16 C3

17 B3

18 B3

19 C3

Franz Binder Museum of World

Ethnology 22 C3

Haller Bastion 23 D3

Iron Bridge 24 C2

Museum of Hunting Arms &

Trophies 25 B6

Natural History Museum 26 C4

Orthodox Cathedral 27 B4

Palace of Justice 28 A5

Pharmaceutical Museum 29 C2

Roman Catholic Cathedral . 30 C3

Staircase Passage ... 31B3

Staircase Tower 32 B2

Thick Tower 33 C4

Urusuline Church 34 D2

Hotel Bulevard 35 84

Hotel Continental 36 B5

Hotel Ela 37 C1

Hotel Halamadero 38 A2

Hotel Podul Minciunilor 39 B2

Hotel fmpararu! Romanilor 40 B3

Dobrun 41 B4

Dori's 42 C3

La Turn 43 C3

Market 44 A2



Restaurant Bufnija... Sinuba Pizzeria

47 B4

48 B5

DRINKING OP (pp120-1)

Chill Out (see 45)

Crama National Domntiti 49 C2

Fashion Café 50 A4

Spielplatz 51 C3


Agenjie de Teatralä 52 B4

Cinema Tineretului (see 54)

Philharmonic 53 C3

Puppet Theatre 54 B3

Radu Stancu State Theatre 55 B5

Studionul Astra 56 B2


Antik 57 B4

Art Antik 58 B2


Advantage car rental 59 B4

Agende de Voiaj CFR 60 B3

Eurolines 61 C6

Tarom 62 B4

Hl)in.irilor 14; adult/child €1.25/0.75; ® 10am-6pm Tue-tim lun Sep, 9am-4pm Tue-Sun Oct-May), 5km south-»1 •■! of the centre. Trolleybus No 1 from the li.un station goes there (get off at the last »Inp and keep walking less than 1km), lliniigh it's an easy and pleasant bike ride llii'ie. Devoted to preserving all aspects "I Romanian folk heritage, from musical ,ind literary traditions to traditional housebuilding, the Astra society was instrumental Hi ((instructing what is one of Romania's I'i'sl sites for seeing the past in action. A : ir.ii many authentic rural buildings and houses have been reassembled in the park to . ieate an open-air ethnographic museum. At the adjacent zoo (Calea Ra$inarilor; adult/child (II./5/0.40; ®10am-6pm Tue-Sun Jun-Sep, 9am-4pm lui> Sun Oct-May) you can hire a boat and row yourself around the lake. If you'd rather stay mi dry land, Explorer Sport (g 216 641; Calea Hiimbravii 14; ® 9am-6pm Mon-Sat) rents mountain hikes for €5 a day, and also does repairs.



II you hang out at the bus or train station long enough, you're bound to get an offer nia private room.

Hotel Halemadero (0 212 509; Str Masarilor 10; d/tr €13/20) West of the centre, this friendly, l.imily-run hotel overlooks a pleasant garden and patio.

SC Tourism & Hospitality ((D 0788-233 188; nicolae [email protected]; apt €16-22) They can fix you up with a two- or three-star apartment in the centre, near Hotel Continental. The building is grotty but the apartments are spacious and clean; considering the price and the privacy, this is the best deal in town. You must call or write in advance.

Hotel Pare(@ 424 455; Str $coala de inot 1 -3; s/d/ste €16/20/36) Head here if you care more about your wallet than comfort. A musty eight-storey concrete blob some 2km southwest of the centre, it has grim rooms, but you can comfort yourself with the stale bread for breakfast.

flntrec (§§220 179; [email protected]; Str D Bagdazar 6) They arrange rooms in private houses in villages surrounding Sibiu for around €10 a night, including breakfast. They're in an inconvenient location in northern Sibiu (call or write first).

Popas Turistic (@ 214 022; tent space/cabins €4/10) Not highly recommended is this run-down affair 4km southwest of the town centre (take trolleybus No 1 from the train station directly to the site).


Hotel Bulevard (@ 216 060; Piata Unirii 10; s/d/ste €24/27/45) This behemoth is well located in the centre, but dates from 1876 and for better or worse feels like it. There's a stalwart old-world grandeur to its exteriors and lobby, but in the stodgy rooms you feel boxed into the 1960s. It's wheelchair accessible.

I ill


Haiti ill).) « Mi Ml fa. '11. iih aipmimlltruu •••»►'« i l.ii lirtli i ii\ |i lintel nvri looks ilii i, ni.i i inn i ¡1. ill. h ,iiH|llll. live filled -.1,1 \iini l iil. I in .ill 11 nr.ii Hotel Pare, n< in r i-i i. ill- limn llir ientre.

Iliiial lni|i;iiitliil lliimanllor (RS1 216 500; www miflliii iiiiii|i«ir in Mi Nicolae Balcescu 2-4; s/d/ste m ir. :; v;) Hounded in 1555 as a res-l,nil,ml, this grand hotel is Sibiu's most 111 *111 Ions, You could be forgiven for thinking you bad wandered into an oversized ■unique shop in the lobby, with decorative pieces from just about every known style since the 16th century placed willy-nilly. The rooms are simple and elegant, but the real draw is the huge restaurant with sliding glass ceiling and equally over-the-top furnishings.

Hotel Continental ((B) 218 100; www.continental hotels.ro; Galea Dumbravii 2-4; s/d/ste €45/60/86; gp §§) For a high-rise block of 182 rooms, this is a welcoming place, though mainly geared to business travellers. It's fully wheelchair accessible.


Dori's (Pia^a Mica 14; ® 7am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-2pm Sat) Look no further in Sibiu for a cheap (ie a bit greasy but delicious) fill. The tiny patisserie serves freshly baked sesame-seed bread, meat rolls and yoghurt. It's generally packed.


Hotel Ela (@215 197; www.hotel-ela.as.ro; Str Noua 43; s/d/t €16/19/22) One of Sibiu's best bets, this Lower Town guesthouse has just nine rooms, all clean and comfy -some even have bunk beds for the kids. Situated in a quiet area outside the main tourist drag, there's also a courtyard for morning coffee, and a kitchen and laundry room available. Fun-loving, feisty owners complete the rosy picture.

Hotel Podul Minciunilor ((B) 217 259; Str Azilului 1; d €16) Located on an ambient Lower Town street where cats and flowerpots vie for space on window ledges, this small guesthouse has old fashioned bedspreads your great aunt might have made for your house-warming party and boasts nice views onto tiled rooftops. It's renovated, If a tad stuffy.

AUTHOR'S CHOICE Plzzerie (§§ 0744-210 769; Piata Mica 23; mains €3-5; Snoon-11pm Mon-Sat) Despite tin-bland name, this is one of the city's top dining spots, with creative fish and pork dishes and the best Italian food in the city Even the sickly baby-blue and hospital green decor doesn't spoil the appeal of the mouthwatering food. Just sit facing the window, keep your eyes on the Old Town rooftops and enjoy the meal.

Sinuba Pizzeria (@ 216 005; Galea Dumbravii U; mains €1-3; ®8am-11pm) Great fast food yon can point to, including lasagna, mamaligulii (p43) and the proverbial pizza, are served in a clean and always-packed hall which dou bles as a friendly, boisterous hang-out.

Restaurant Bufnita (@214 133; Str Nicolae Balcescu 4; mains €2-4; ®10am-11pm) Serving standard fare on nice wooden tables isn't quite enough to cover up a stodgy formal ity that reigns supreme here. It'll do in n pinch, though.

La Turn (®213 985; Piata Mare; mains €2 Sllam-midnight) Its terrace right on the main square is always packed. The grull service is made up for by an eye-catching menu including schnitzel stuffed with brains and numerous vegetarian choices. The relaxed decor is British pub meets American tavern. If you're with kids, its roominess makes it the most convenient place to bring them to.

Prima (Str Nicolae Balcescu 23; ®7.30am-9pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am-7pm Sat, 9am-3pm Sun) This is a convenient grocery store.

Dobrun (Str Nicolae Balcescu 39; ® 6am-9pm Mon Fri, 7am-3pm Sat, 8am-2pm Sun) This is the place towards which all heads turn; it's a small pastry and bread shop which entices by aroma alone. Find heaven here!

Stock up on vegetables and fruits at the market on Piata Cibin, northeast of Str Masarilor near Hotel Halemadero.


Crama National Domn'titi ('Si 218 238; Piata Mica 18; ®7pm-1am) This is the city's main stu dent hang-out: see the well-thumbed and beer-stained books of literature in front of undergrads enthusiastically discussing Dostoevsky and Eminescu. The spacious


tplelplatz (Piata Huet 13; ® 10am-1am) Off

I (lie main drag in several respects, this is

I where locals let it all hang out. The decor

I might be described as grunge ancienne

I with a stylish touch, the music is a refresh-

I lug blend of funk and hip hop, the drinks

I me inexpensive; in short, it's the perfect

I place to unwind.

tiilik cellar bar boasts 10 kinds of beer, mid plastic pizza slices for just €0.15!

Art Café (© 0722-265 992; Str Filarmonicii 2; |V| llam-midnight) A bohemian delight, this It located in a cosy cellar inside the state philharmonic building. Its walls are covered with graffiti and adorned with musical in-(truments, and there are regular exhibits ni local art.

Fashion Café ((§214 250; Str Andrei Saguna 15; fj»! 24hr) Not as trendy as its name implies, this large hall with billiard tables (€1.30 per hour) makes a decent hang-out, despite the Itletal grid garden chairs. Light meals are nerved.

Chill Out (© 0788-314 800; www.chilloutsibiu.ro; l>l,i(a Mica 23; ® 10am-2am) Something different goes on every night in this cellar club that attracts a slightly trendy if alternative i t'owd. Enjoy DJs, house parties or theme nights, or just kick back and get elegantly wasted.



Cinema Tineretului (© 211 420; Str Alexandru Odob-fscu 4) The auditorium-cum-disco is filled with sofas and coffee tables, inviting you to sit back in comfort and relax over a beer while watching your favourite Hollywood hero in action. A real treat!

Studionul Astra (©218 195, extension 26; Piata Huet 12) This screens alternative art films; it also hosts the annual International Astra l ilm Festival in May.

THEATRE & CLASSICAL MUSIC Agentie de Teatralá (© 217 575; Str Nicolae Bálcescu 17; ® 8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat) Tickets for major events are sold here; check out the posters in the office.

Philharmonic (©210 264; Str Filharmonicii 2) Founded in 1949, this has played a key role in maintaining Sibiu's prestige as a main cultural centre of Transylvania.

Radu Stancu State Theatre (©413 114; B-dul Spitelor 2-4) Plays are usually in Romanian, with occasional productions in German. It hosts the International Theatre Festival in June.

Puppet Theatre (Teatrul de Papu§i; © 211 420; Str Alexandru Odobescu 4) Kids are entertained only between October and July.


Antik (©211 604; Str Nicolae Balcescu 23; ® 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat) The best place to pick through old German knick-knacks.

Art Antik (©211 115; Piata Huet 1; ®10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat) You can find antique items here plus souvenir glass icons.

Getting There & Away

Tarom (© 211157; Str Nicolae Balcescu 10; ® 8am-6pm Mon-Fri) no longer operates flights to Bucharest, but you can hop on a Munich-bound plane five times weekly for as low as €255 for a return flight. Carpatair (©229 161; www .carpatair.ro), which has an office at the airport, has six weekly flights to Munich and three weekly to Stuttgart, via Timi§oara.


You can buy advance tickets at the Agentie de Voiaj CFR office (© 216 441; Str Nicolae Balcescu 6; ® 7.30am-7.30pm Mon-Fri). The train station is at the eastern end of Str General Magheru, on Piata 1 Decembrie.

Sibiu lies at an awkward rail junction; getting here and away is best by bus and maxitaxi. For Sighi^oara, you have to change at Cop§a Mica or Media?. For Alba Iulia, you have to change at Vintu de Jos. Cluj-Napoca is the most irksome to get to: there is one direct train a day (€5, four hours) leaving in the middle of the night; otherwise, you need to change at Cop§a Mica or Vintu de Jos.

The bus station (© 217 757) is opposite the train station and is the usual muddle of private companies with no centralised timetable in sight. If your Romanian is good, call for info; otherwise get the tourist information centre to do it for you. Transmixt (© 217 757) serves the majority of routes. Eurolines

Mi '.ANON (AND A tlir PNAHOVA VALLEY •• Around Sibiu m hi .in mini mitollin'uii; Str General Vasile Milea li '(mil',|iin Moil Frl) sells tickets to many I in •>)<<->tti destinations.

I i,iily tins and maxitaxi services include ■ii le.isi seven to Cluj-Napoca (€3.20, three hours), five to Targu Mure§ (€3, three hours), as well as to Timi^oara, Bucharest, Alba Julia, Bra^ov, Deva, Mangalia and Sighijjoara.

Maxitaxis to Rasnari and Paltini§ (€1.15, 1V4 hours, three a day) leave from the roundabout in front of the train station, and buses to Cisnadie leave every half-hour from platform No 9.

Getting Around

Trolleybus No 1 connects the train station with the centre.

TO/FROM THE AIRPORT Sibiu airport ((Bj 229 235) is 5km west of the centre. Tarom (p344) runs a shuttle bus, departing from its office one hour before flights depart. Trolleybus No 8 runs between the airport and the train station.


To call a taxi dial @ 444 444 or if) 212 121. CAR RENTAL

Advantage (§ 216 949; Str Nicolae Balcescu 37) has Dacias for as low as €29 per day. Other makes run from €40 to €70 a day.

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