Under Ceau$escu, all Hungarian-language newspapers and magazines in Romania were closed down, and very few Hungarian schools and cultural centres existed. Since 1989, however, the rights of Romania's 1.7 million Hungarians have been recognised. They are represented politically in parliament and have their own publications, schools and cultural centres.

Though calmer relations exist between Romanians and Hungarians -and between Romania and Hungary, there is still a palpable level of distrust and tension, fueled by historical injustices on both sides. Despite attempts to assimilate the Hungarians into local culture, they have retained a distinct identity; in Szekely Land, it sometimes feels as if the population has no idea they're actually living in Romania!

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