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Berwick Street Market (p. 188) WEST END Soho's fresh fruit and veg market provides great produce and local color in every sense bargain prices, too. Berwick and Rupert streets W1. Tube Leicester Sq. Open Mon-Sat 9am-6pm. Betty Jackson (p. 183) SOUTH KENSINGTON With her kind cuts, interesting textures, and extraordinary color combos, Jackson's women's collection is always a hot seller Tel 020 7589-7884. www.bettyjackson.com. 311 Brompton Rd. SW3. Tube South Kensington. Open Mon-Fri 10 30am-6...

The Lowdown

Parks to get lost in The biggest by far are outlying Richmond Park and Hampstead Heath. Wild Richmond Park, in the upriver town of Richmond (reachable by British Rail or riverboat see the Diversions chapter), even has a herd of deer, but its sports appeal is limited to horseback riding and biking outside of Regent's Park, this is true of most of London's parks. Hampstead Heath, in the upscale north London neighborhood of the same name (Hampstead tube stop), is all rolling hills and dells and...

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Expect to be pampered and impressed Tel 020 7499-6363. Fax 020 7629-9337. www.lemeridienhotels.com. Park Lane WIK 7TN. Tube Marble Arch. 444 rooms. AE, DC, MC, V. - London Elizabeth (p. 31,35) BAYSWATER Set near the depressing guesthouses of Sussex Gardens, this likable and friendly family-run hotel was redesigned by the owner's American wife. Rooms are fresh and English-chintzy in pale blues and yellows some have tiny balconies, deluxe rooms have Hyde Park views. There's an...

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Wodka (p. 60, 63, 65, 69) KENSINGTON POLISH Frequented by beau-monde types, this minimalist-looking but warm-feeling spot has founded a new genre modern Polish Tel 0207 937-6513. 12 St. Alban's Grove W8. Tube Gloucester Rd. AE, DC, MC, V. The Wren at St. James's (p. 68, 72) ST. JAMES'S VEGETARIAN Cafe with an early (7pm) closing and pretty churchyard tables. Simple, vegetarian, and cheap dishes great cakes and pastries Tel 020 7437-9419. 35 Jermyn St. SW1. Tube Piccadilly Circus. No...