Battersea Wandsworth

Against the looming shell of the Battersea Power Station, this area southwest along the Thames was a site of industry until the 1970s. Now its abandoned factories and warehouses have been replaced by luxury flats. Even residents from well-heeled Chelsea are defecting across the Thames to what estate agents like to call 'Chelsea South'.

Wandsworth, the poorer working-class sibling of more affluent Battersea immediately downriver, has similarly gentrified in recent years. You'll hear the area repeatedly referred to as 'nappy valley'. Apparently Wandsworth has the highest birth rate of any borough in London.

SIGHTS (pp199-202)

Battersea Park 1 B1

Battersea Power Station 2 C1

Children's Zoo 3 B1

Clapham Common 4 B4

Holy Trinity Church 5 C4

Peace Pagoda 6 B1

Pump House Gallery 7 B1

Brixton Market S E3

Brixton Village 9 E3

Bullfrogs (see 11)

Joy 10 E3

Oliver Bonas 11 C3

EATING Q) (pp235-75)

Asmara 12 E3

Bamboula 13 E3

Brixton Market (see 8)

Butcher & Grill 14 A1

Cinnamon Cay 15 B3

Fujiyama 16 E3

Grafton House 17 C3

Lounge Café 18 E3

Ramsome's Dock 19 A1

Santa Maria del Buen Ayre 20 B2

Satay Bar (see 36)

Verso 21 C4

Babalou 22 E4

Brixton Bar & Grill 23 E3

Dogstar (see 16)

Dusk 24 B2

Plan B 25 E3

Prince of Wales 26 C3 27 C3

Tim Bobbin 28 C3

White Horse 29 D4

White House 30 C4

NIGHTLIFE Q (pp297-310)

Carling Academy Brixton 31 E3

Dogstar (see 16)

Fridge 32 E4

Jongleurs Battersea 33 A3

Battersea Arts Centre 34 A3

Clapham Picture House 35 C3

Ritzy 36 E4


Brockwell Park

Lido 37 E4

GAY & LESBIAN (pp331-37)

Two Brewers 38 C3

BATTERSEA POWER STATION Map P200; (Ml Battersea Park

Familiar to an entire generation from Pink Floyd's 1977 Animals album cover, with the four smokestacks that somewhat resemble a table turned upside down, Battersea Power Station is a building both loved and reviled. Built by Giles Gilbert Scott with two chimneys in 1933 (the other two were added in 1955), it ceased operations in 1983 and since then there have been innumerable proposals to give it a new life. In November 2006 it was sold to yet another group of developers; the previous ones, Parkview International, had owned it more than a dozen years from 1993 and had wanted to demolish the chimneys and turn the 'nave' of the structure into a 24-hour entertainment complex with restaurants, hotels, retail shops, cinemas etc. The power station's future seems as uncertain as ever as a new 'master plan' is redrawn, though one sensible proposal suggests that it house the government's new Energy Technologies Institute, established to research new technologies into combating climate change.


§§8871 7530;; S dawn-dusk; (9 Battersea Park

These 50 hectares of greenery stretch between Albert and Chelsea Bridges. With its Henry Moore sculptures and Peace Pagoda, erected in 1985 by a group of Japanese Buddhists to commemorate Hiroshima Day, its tranquil appearance belies a bloody past. It was once the site of an assassination attempt on King Charles II in 1671

and of a duel in 1829 between the Duke of Wellington and an opponent who accused him of treason.

A recent refurbishment has seen the 19th-century landscaping reinstated and the grand riverside terraces spruced up. At the same time, the Festival of Britain pleasure gardens, including the spectacular Vista Fountains, have been restored. There are lakes, plenty of sporting facilities, an art space called the Pump House Gallery (@ 8871 7572;; Battersea ParkSW11; admission free; S 11am-5pm Wed-Sun) and a small Children's Zoo (@ 7924 5826;; adult/2-15yr/ family £5.95/4.50/18.50; S 10am-5pm Apr-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Mar).


(11 Wandsworth Common or Clapham Junction

Wilder and more overgrown than the nearby common in Clapham, Wandsworth Common is full of couples pushing prams on a sunny day. On the common's western side is a pleasant collection of streets known as the toast rack, because of their alignment. Baskerville, Dorlcote, Henderson, Nicosia, Patten and Routh Rds are lined with Georgian houses. There's a blue plaque at 3 Routh Rd, home to the former British prime minister David Lloyd George.

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