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outside, grass abuts the carpet beneath \ VIP hammock. Cool art adorns the wall and an ultra hip crowd sips blood-red cotll tails to house and techno. In other words, ( doesn't get much hipper than this.

Mirador de Guápulo (Map pp80-1; ft! 256 03É Rafael León Larrea & Pasaje Stübel; mains $4-6; © 4p<é 12:30am) This cozy café-cum-bar sits on th| cliffside overlooking Guápulo. The views as unbeatable, and the snacks - mostly Ecu« dorian specialties - are tasty. There's livl music Wednesday through Saturday nighty when there is a cover charge of $4.50.

Ta Güeno (Map pp80-1; Camino de Orellana N27-49J3I A bohemian air, friendly vibe, a wonderftl candle-lit terrace overlooking Guápulo ani big pitchers of delicious canelazo make thll the most popular bar in Guápulo.

Ananké (Map pp80-1; Camino de Orellana 78^ © 6pm-late) This cozy little bar-cum-pizzeril] sits perched on the hillside in Guápulo. ■ has a wee terrace (complete with fireplacc) and several good nooks for making out. i

No Bar (Map p84; J Calama 380 & Jt Mera; admission $3-5; ©6pm-3am) This Mariscal institn tion keeps 'em coming with its four smaltt dark dance-floors, a chaotic bar (always with dancing on top) and plenty of beer-bonging and spraying of Pilsener. It's mobbed oj weekends. Expect high-energy dance pop and lots of pick-up lines.

Mumbai (Map pp80-1; Isabel La Católica N24-6H5) Quito's only martini bar, Mumbai draws • hip, moneyed crowd with its stylish, mod* ern atmosphere.

On Reina Victoria, around Santa Maril and Pinta, there are several wildly popuhr bars with packed weekend dance-floors. The area is flooded with bar-hoppers, taxi! and hotdog vendors, but it's a dangeroui area after dark, so don't wander far from the club entrances. Inside you're fine. Two favorites near here are Tijuana (Map pp80-1; cnr Reina Victoria & Santa Maria; admission $3-4) and Papil Ion (Map p84; cnr Santa María & Diego de Almagro; admís» sion $3-4), which both blast out a broad mix of international dance music.

English pubs have long been the rave in Quito, and most serve food. The most popular include the following: Patatu's Bar (Map p84; m 222 9302; Wilson E4-229; 1 © 11:30am-3am Mon-Fri, 8pm-3am Sat) Great fun. Turtle's Head (Map pp80-1; ISI256 5544; La Niña 626) Wickedly raucous; excellent beer and food.

l*j's Cross (Map pp80-1; S 252 3597; Reina Victoria IH i 5:30pm-late Mon-Fri, 6:30pm-late Sat) *»x Bar (Map pp80-1; la Niña 425)

«ightdubs

•luting the dance floor of one of Quito's apotecas is a must. If you don't know how I .ilsa, try a few classes first (see p88).

Mayo 68 (Map p84; L Garcia 662) This popular *< i club is smaller (and some say, for that (•»ton, better) than Seseribó.

Kvc Music

Ivrtus are usually bars that have traditional música folklórica (folk music) shows.

Vox Populi (Map p74; ® 228 2263; Espejo 0e2-12 i »tores; ® 4-11pm Tue, Wed & Sun, 4pm-2am Thu-Sat) |nnch-owned Vox Populi is the hippest, • . kest bar in the Centro Histórico (hell, it's «ic of the hippest in the city), featuring ex-Itllent live music ranging from Cuban son (a i 'W, rhythmic dance) to Latin jazz. The jams U Kin at 10pm Thursday through Saturday.

Nucanchi Peña (Map p78; @ 254 0967; Universitaria «Ti. admission $5; ©8pm-2am or 3am Thu-Sat) Popu-br with students and families, this peña is » iic of the best places to catch a folklórica Uw)w.

la Casa de la Peña (Map p74; i© 228 4179, 243 ♦»/}; García Moreno NI 1-13; admission $3-5; ®7pm-ndnight Thu, 7pm-2am Fri & Sat) The setting alone, Inside an ancient building in the old town, i ikes this intimate peña a great place to

•-.ir Ecuadorian folk music.

Café Libro (Map pp80-1; «1252 6754; J Carrión 243; emission $3-5; ® 5pm-1am Mon-Fri, from 6pm Sat) I ive music, contemporary dance, tango, »// and other performances draw an artsy «iid intellectual crowd to this cozy, bohema n venue. Excellent.

AUTHOR'S CHOICE

Seseribd (Map pp80-1; 256 3598; General Veintimilla & Av 12 de Octubre, Edificio Gir6n; admission $7; ®9pm-1am Thu-Sat) Bust out your dancin' shoes and hang on to that rhythm-stick for a night at Seserib6, Quito's best salsoteca. The music is tops, the atmosphere is superb, and the dancing is outta sight. The devoted salseros (salsa dancers) turn up on Thursdays, which makes it a great night to go. Admission includes drinks.

La Bodeguita de Cuba (Map pp80-1; Reina Victoria 172) This Cuban restaurant features excellent live Cuban music on Thursday nights from about 9pm to 2am. Get there early.

Café Toledo (Map pp80-1; rffi 255 8086; Toledo 720 at Lérida; admission $5) Small, mellow place for live music.

Casa Babylon (Map pp80-1; enr Madrid & Toledo; admission $3-5) Casa Babylon is a totally non-touristy place to catch a rock or punk show, usually by local bands.

Theater & Dance

Teatro Sucre (Map p74; © 228 2136, 228 2337; www .teatrosucre.com in Spanish; Manabi N8-131; admission $3-70; ticket office ® lOam-lpm & 2-6pm) Recently restored and now standing gloriously over the Plaza del Teatro, this is the city's most historical theater. Performances range from jazz and classical music to ballet, modern dance and opera.

Teatro Bolívar (Map p74; IS) 258 2486/7; www .teatrobolivar.org; Espejo) Likely the city's most illustrious theater and definitely one of its most important, the Bolivar is currently undergoing restoration work after a fire nearly burnt it to the ground. Performances and tours - everything from theatrical works to international tango-electronica gigs - are still given. It's situated between Plores and Guayaquil.

Humanizarte (Map p84; tsi 222 6116; www.human izarte.com; Leónidas Plaza Gutiérrez N24-226; ® 5:30pm Wed) This excellent theater and dance group presents Andean dance performances. You can either call or check the website for other performances.

Ballet Folklórico Nacional Jacchigua (Map pp80-1; (SI 295 2025; www.jacchigua.com in Spanish; enr Av Patria & Av 12 de Octubre; admission $25) This folkloric ballet is as touristy as it is spectacular. It is presented daily at the Teatro Demetrio Agüera at the Casa de la Cultura Ecuatoriana (p82). It's quite a show. Contact any travel agency or upper-end hotel for tickets or buy them at the door or online.

Teatro Prometeo (Map pp80-1; raí 222 6116; Av 6 de Diciembre 794) Affiliated with the Casa de La Cultura Ecuatoriana, this inexpensive venue often has modern-dance performances and other shows that non-Spanish speakers can enjoy.

Patio de Comedías (Map p84; fBi256 1902; 18 de Septiembre 457) Presents plays and performances Thursday through Sunday nights, usually at 8pm.

Cinemas

Most of the cinemas in Quito show popular English-language films with Spanish sub-ttles, while cheaper places resort to kung-fu and porn.

Ocho y Medio (Map pp80-1; g 290 4720/21/22; www.ochoymedio.net in Spanish; Valladolid N24-353 & Vizcaya; ® café llam-10:30pm) This Floresta film house shows great art films (often in English) and has occasional dance, theater and live music. There's a small café attached.

The most recent Hollywood blockbusters are shown at Cinemark (Map p78; «1226 0301; www.dnemark.com.ee in Spanish; Naciones Unidas & Av América; admission $4) and Multicines (Map p78; ft 225 9677; www.multidnes.com.ee in Spanish; Centro Comercial Iñaquito; admission $4), which are both multiscreen, state-of-the-art cinemas.

shopping Arts & Crafts

There are loads of excellent crafts stores in the new town along and near Avenida Amazonas. If buying from street stalls, you should bargain. In the fancier stores, prices are normally fixed, although bargaining is not out of the question. Note that souvenirs are a little cheaper outside Quito if you have the time and inclination to search them out.

The following is a list of stores that sell a wide selection of goods at a variety of prices. There are many other stores in the area.

La Bodega (Map p84; m 222 5844; JL Mera N22-24) In business for 30 odd years, La Bodega stocks a wide and wonderful range of high-quality crafts, both old and new.

Ag (Map p84; «1255 0276; JL Mera N22-24) Ag's selection of rare, handmade silver jewelry from throughout South America is outstanding. There are also antiques, including rarities such as vaca loca (crazy cow) costumes, perfect for your next indigenous party.

Mercado Artesanal La Mariscal (enr JL Mera & Jorge Washington) Half a city block is filled with crafts stalls (and the usual hippie bracelets, ponchos and even a couple of body piercing stalls), with good prices and mixed quality. It's great for souvenirs.

Folklore Olga Fisch (Map pp80-1; new town ft 254 1315; Av Cristóbal Colón 260; old town Map p74; Garcia Moreno N6-52, Hotel Patio Andaluz) The store of legendary designer Olga Fisch (who died in 1991), this is the place to go for the very best and the most expensive crafts in town* Fisch was a Hungarian artist who immli grated to Ecuador in 1939 and worked with indigenous artists melding traditional craffl with fine art. Her unique designs are stun! ning. ■

Productos Andinos (Map p84; ft 222 4565; Urb«¿ 111) This two-floor artisans' cooperative IC crammed with reasonably priced crafts.

Galería Latina (Map p84; ft 254 0380; JL Met« N23-69) Galería Latina sells superb quality Andean textiles, jewelry, sweaters and handicrafts all at high prices.

Centro Artesanal (Map p84; ft 254 8235; JL Men E5-11) This excellent shop is known for can vases painted by local Indian artists.

Tiánguez (Map p74; Plaza San Francisco; mains $3-S| Attached to the eponymous café, Tiangue* is a member of the Fair Trade Organization and sells outstanding crafts from through^ out Ecuador.

El Aborigen (Mapp84; (Hi 250 8953; Jorge Washingtof 614) Talk about an arts and crafts supermajB ket! Huge selection and good prices too.

Centro Artístico Don Bosco (Map pp80-1; ft 2SÍ 7105; Mariana de Jesús Oel-92 near 10 de Agosto) This ii the retail outlet for a cooperative of woodworkers from throughout the highlands, The cooperative was formed to give peoplt an alternative to immigrating to cities, so it'i an excellent cause. It has mostly furniture, but beautiful boxes, frames and wall hangings too.

Clothing 1

Maqui (Map pp80-1; 1« 250 3158, 252 3009; maqulf ecnet.ec; Muros N27-193; ®9am-5:30pm Mon-Fri) II you're interested in a finer panama' hat than those you see all over the Marisca!*] visit the store of Miriam Kelz, who puts the finishing touches on some of Quito's most stylish straw hats.

Tatoo (Map p84; ® 280 4333; JL Mera near Wilson) This is Ecuador's top brand of outdoor-wear, and the prices are as high as the quality.

Mythos Shop (ft 222 6407; Wilson 712 at JL Mera) Pop into Mythos for killer T-shirts by local designer Cholo Machine (wwwr.choloma chine.com in Spanish), plus the quintessential souvenir T-Shirts as well.

Homero Ortega P & Hijos (Map pp80-1; flSi 252 6715; www.genuinepanamahat.com; Isabel la Católica N24-100) One of Ecuador's biggest sellers of Ecuadorian straw hats (aka panama hats). Selection is conservative but good.

cilleries

Inily, over the last few years, most of Quito's fine art galleries have closed due fc in unfavorable market. There are a few •nces, however, that still exhibit and sell nal work. The most popular place to pur-i1 ase paintings is Parque El Ejido Art Fair (Map ^■W 1; Av Patria at Av Amazonas; £ 9am-dusk Sat & Sun) during the weekend art fair (see p79). The work here consists mostly of generic imitations of established Ecuadorian artists, but K s cheap and colorful. Also pop into La |i«uk'ga (opposite), which usually has some ncellent art on hand.

Posada de Artes Kingman (Map pp80-1; g 222 MO; Diego de Almagro 1550 at Pradera) This small »iut well-stocked gallery is dedicated to the works of Ecuadorian painter Eduardo Kingman, the teacher and primary influence on better known artist Guayasamin. Prints, cards, T-shirts, etchings and jewelry me the walls and shelves.

Galería Mina Alvarez (Map pp80-1; ^ 252 0347; «ww.arteminaalvarez.com in Spanish; J Carrion 243) For a i«'ek at some truly outstanding art, drop by «he gallery of Mina Alvarez, whose colorful lintings, mostly of Latin American women, A il! dazzle even the weariest of critics.

MarsuArte (Map pp80-1; main gallery tsi 245 8616; Av 6 de Diciembre 4475 at Portugal; Swissótel Map pp80-l; ir 254 1283; Av 12 de Octubre 1820) This exclusive ► illery is extremely expensive, but it's one of the few in town where you can get a look at »ome of the country's most established artists. The branch inside the Swissótel (p95) is actually better than the main branch.

Pomaire (Map p84; Iff 254 0074; [email protected] \atnet.net; Av Amazonas 863) Long-standing art gallery, café and bookstore with monthly exhibits mostly by contemporary Ecuadorian artists.

Taller Alderuti (Map p84; g 254 3639; Jorge Washington near Av Amazonas) The art at Alderuti (a member of the Fair Trade Organization) »its somewhere between handicrafts and line art, but all of it springs from Ecuador's indigenous cultures, both past and present. Occasionally, the store closes for lunch between 1:30pm and 3pm.

Galería Catasse (Map pp80-1; "S 224 0538; Av 6 de Diciembre at Checoslovaquia) Chilean-born painter, Carlos Tapia Catasse is one of Quito's premier (if not mainstream) contemprary .»rtists. It's worth a visit if you're an art hound.

Galería Beltrán (Map p84; g 222 1732; Reina Victoria 326) With more than 30 years in the art business, this art gallery sells paintings by well-known Ecuadorian artists.

Outdoor Supplies

Mono Dedo (La Floresta Map pp80-1; g 09-922 6615; www.monodedo.com in Spanish; Lérida E13-37 near Pontevedra; ® 2-7:30pm Mon-Fri, 9:30am-12:30pm Sat; Rocó dromo Queseras del Medio s/n; @ 11am-7:30pm Mon-Fri, 9:30am-5pm Sat & Sun) Outstanding climbing store with rock and ice gear, clothing, tents, bags and more. The branch at the Rocódromo (p86) has more gear.

The following stores sell and rent camping and mountaineering equipment: Altar (Map p84; g 290 6029; JL Mera 615) Explorer (Map p84; g255 0911; Reina Victoria 928) Los Alpes (Map p84; Ig 223 2362; Reina Victoria N23-45)

Shopping Centers

Centros comerciales (shopping malls) are nearly identical to their North American counterparts and sell international brands. Most stores are closed Sunday, but the following malls are open every day (from about 10am to 8:30pm). They all have fast-food restaurants inside. Centro Comercial El Jardín (Map pp80-1; g 298 0300; Av Amazonas & Av de la República) Centro Comercial Iñaquito (Map p78; CCI; g 225 9444; Av Amazonas & Naciones Unidas) Centro Comercial Quicentro (Map p78; g 246 4512; Av 6 de Didembre & Naciones Unidas)

getting there & away Air

Quito's newly remodeled airport, Aeropuerto Mariscal Suae (Map p78; g 294 4900; www.quitoairport .com in Spanish; Av Amazonas at Av de la Prensa) serves all international and domestic flights in and out of the capital. It's located about IOkm north of downtown. See pl07 for bus and taxi information on getting there. For domestic and international flight and airline information, see p400 and p404. The following are Ecuador's principal domestic airlines, with the widest choice provided by TAME: AeroGal (g 225 7301,225 8086/7; Av Amazonas 7797) Near the airport.

Icaro (Map p78; g 245 0928,245 1499; www.icaro .com.ec in Spanish; Palora 124 at Av Amazonas) Across from the airport runway.

TAME (Map p84; g 250 9375/6/7/8,290 9900; Av Amazonas 1354 at Av Cristobal Colón)

Quito's main bus terminal is the Cumanda Bus Terminal (Map p74; Maldonado at Javier Piedra), located just south of Plaza Santo Domingo, in the old town. It can be reached by walking down the steps from Maldonado, or by taking the Trole (see opposite) to the nearby Cumanda stop. After around 6pm you should take a taxi, as this is an unsafe area at night. Don't take the Trole if you're loaded with luggage; it's notorious for pickpockets.

Several dozen bus companies serve the terminal with connections to just about everywhere in the country. On weekends and vacations, purchase your ticket a day or so in advance. The terminal has a post office, an Andinatel office, ATMs, restaurants and small stores.

Approximate fares and travel times are shown in the following table. There are daily departures for each destination and several departures per day to most. There are numerous buses per hour to popular places such as Ambato or Otavalo. There is a $0.20 departure tax from the bus terminal.

Destination

Cost ($)

Duration (hr)

Ambato

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