Tanzania

Few areas of the continent captivate the imagination as does Tanzania. Snowcapped Mt Kilimanjaro towers majestically over the horizon, flamingos stand sentinel in the salt pans of Ngorongoro Crater, and the hoof beats of thousands of wildebeest echo over the Ser-engeti Plains. In many ways, this is the Africa of legend, where hot, dusty afternoons end abruptly in glorious blazes of sunset and velvet-black star-studded skies enfold the hills, where Indian Ocean breezes caress white sands and...

Bus

Kenya has an extensive network of long- and short-haul bus routes, with particularly good coverage of the areas around Nairobi, the coast and the western regions. Services thin out the further away from the capital you get, particularly in the north, and there are still plenty of places where you'll be reliant on matatus. Fares start around KSh80 for an hour-long journey between nearby towns. At the other end of the scale, you'll seldom pay more than KSh500 for a standard journey, but so-called...

Car Motorcycle

Many travellers bring their own vehicles into Kenya as part of overland trips and, expense notwithstanding, it's a great way to see the country at your own pace. Otherwise, there are numerous car-hire companies who can hire you anything from a small hatchback to Toyota Land Cruiser 4WDs, although hire rates are some of the highest in the world. A few expats have off-road (trail) motorcycles, but they aren't seen as a serious means of transport, which is a blessing considering the lethal nature...

Travel Agencies

For information on safari and trek operators, see p92. flfri-Roots (0744-459887 www.afriroots.co.tz) Budget cycling, hiking and camping in and around Dar es Salaam. Coastal Travels (Map p118 211 7959,211 7960 safari coastal.cc Upanga Rd) Flights around the country especially recommended for travel to Zanzibar, and to northern and southern safari circuit destinations. Kearsley Travel (www.kearsleys.com) Holiday Inn (Map pi 18 1 211 5026, Garden Ave) Seacl iff Village (Map pi 16 260 0538,260...

Sleeping

There are plenty of budget choices in Mombasa, as well as some excellent midrange hotels, but there are few top-end options. Many people choose to skip Mombasa and head straight for the beaches to the north and south. All the places listed here have fans and mosquito nets as a minimum requirement, though their condition varies widely Most of the really cheap choices are in the busy, noisy area close to the bus stations on Abdel Nasser Rd and Jomo Kenyatta Ave. Women travelling alone might want...

Bigodi Wetland Sanctuary

The Bigodi Wetland Sanctuary ( ) 077-886865), established to protect the Magombe Swamp, is a haven for birds, with 137 species, plus butterflies and a number of primates. The guided walks through this sanctuary have been developed with the aim of assisting community-development projects in the Kibale area, so the project deserves support. Many of the guides have a good knowledge of bird life in the sanctuary, and are also adept at spotting colobus monkeys and the beautiful blue touraco from a...

Getting There Away

There are daily flights to from Dar es Salaam on Air Tanzania (250 0046 Kenyatta Rd) and to from Dar es Salaam and Bukoba on Precision Air ( )250 0819 pwmwz africaonline.co .tz Kenyatta Rd). Coastal Aviation ( )256 0443 1 coastalmwanza coastal.cc Airport) flies twice weekly between Mwanza and Rubondo (US 70). Passenger ferries connect Mwanza with Bukoba and with several islands in Lake Victoria, including Ukerewe and Maisome (for Rubondo Island). For schedule and fare information see p262. A...

Miraa Making Many Plans

The small twigs and leaves you'll see people chewing around Mt Kenya are miraa, also known as khat, the product of an evergreen tree native to East and southern Africa, Afghanistan and Yemen. Chewing miraa is an increasingly popular pastime in Kenya, but it's not nearly as important as in Somalia, where the drug is ingrained in the culture. Some of the best miraa in the world is grown around Meru and it's a whopping US 250-million export industry. Of course much of the demand is from Somalia,...

Sleeping Eating

Most of the accommodation is centred on Buggala Island, on the attractive Lutoboka Bay beneath Kalangala village. There are a couple of very basic places in Liku as well, but they are best avoided given the choices around Kalangala. Hornbill Camp (077-729478 www.hornbillcamp .com camping USh4500, dm bandas USh7500 20,000) The most popular budget camp on Buggala, Hornbill has its own secluded beach. Located about a 15-minute (500m) walk below Kalangala, the Dutch owner and his team are very...

Transport In Uganda

For information on getting to Uganda from outside East Africa, see p632. Located on the shores of Lake Victoria about 41km south of the capital, Entebbe International Airport (EBB) is the international gateway to Kampala and Uganda. Few budget travellers enter Uganda by air because most of the discounted air fares available in Europe and North America use Nairobi (Kenya) as the gateway to East Africa. However, for tourists on a short trip, there are some pretty good airlines offering smooth...

The Culture

Despite East Africa's size and diversity, daily life follows remarkably similar patterns throughout much of the region. In general, rural rhythms set the beat life is centred around tending small farm plots, and money -especially for paying school fees or building a house - is a constant concern. Women always work, either outside the home or tending to the family and garden, and many students don't have the opportunity to finish secondary school. Throughout the region tourism provides...

Embassies Consulates High Commissions in Tanzania

Australians can contact the Canadian embassy. Except as noted, most are open from around 8am to at least 3pm, often with a midday break. Visa information is given for Tanzania's neighbours applications for all should be made in the morning. Diplomatic representations in Dar es Salaam (area code 022) include the following Belgium (Map p116 211 4025,211 2503 daressalaam dlplobel.org 5 Ocean Rd, Upanga) Burundi (Map pi 16 LugaloSt, Upanga 8am-5pm Mon-Frl) One-month single-entry visas cost US 45...

War with Tanzania

On 30 October 1978 the Ugandan army rolled across northwestern Tanzania virtually unopposed and annexed more than 1200 sq km of territory. Meanwhile, the air force bombed the Lake Victoria ports of Bukoba and Musoma. Tanzanian President Julius Nyerere ordered a full-scale counterattack, but it took months to mobilise his ill-equipped and poorly trained forces. By early 1979, however, he had managed to scrape together a 50,000-strong people's militia composed mainly of illiterate youngsters from...

Road Conditions Hazards

About 20 of Tanzania's road network is paved, including the roads from Dar es Salaam to Arusha via Chalinze, and from Dar es Salaam to Mbeya via Morogoro and Ir-inga. The road from Dar es Salaam to Mt-wara is being paved. Secondary roads range from good to nearly impassable, depending on the season and on when they were last maintained. For most trips outside major towns, you'll need 4WD. Hazards include vehicles overtaking on blind curves, pedestrians and animals in the road, and children...

Lake Victoria

If it were it not Africa's largest lake, and the second-largest freshwater lake in the world, it would be easy to overlook Lake Victoria. The Tanzanian part of this enormous patch of blue sees only a trickle of tourists lakeshore towns, apart from a sleepy waterside charm, have little to hold passing visitors, and infrastructure lags behind that in many other parts of the country. Yet, if you find yourself passing through, and have a bent for the offbeat, the surrounding region holds a...

Northwestern Uganda

Much of northwestern Uganda remains effectively off limits to travellers due to the ongoing war in the north, but Murchison Falls National Park remains the region's saving grace, the best all-round protected area in the country for wildlife and attractions. The largest park in Uganda, Murchison not only has increasing concentrations of lions, leopards, elephants, giraffes and hippos, but is named in honour of one of the most dramatic falls in the region. Murchison Falls sees the Nile River...

Ukerewe

Ukerewe Island lies in Lake Victoria, well away from Mwanza's dust, and well off the beaten track. It's known for its traditional healers and birdlife, and is agreeable for wandering around and learning about local life. Gallu Beach Hotel (& 1251 5094 www.gallu.net camping TShl 500 r TSh5600) is the best place to stay, with simple rooms and meals. It's located in Ukerewe's main town, Nansio, and is an easy walk from the ferry. Staff can help you organise excursions. Ferries sail twice daily...

Mt Hanang Babati

Volcanic Mt Hanang (3417m) rises steeply from the plains about 200km southwest of Arusha. It's Tanzania's fourth-highest mountain and, while time-consuming to reach, makes a rewarding trek that can be done at a fraction of the cost of Mt Kilimanjaro or Mt Meru. The surrounding area is home to numerous tribes, including the Barabaig, who still follow a seminomadic traditional lifestyle. The jumping-off point for climbs is the lively market town of Babati, which is set in fertile countryside...

Tazara

Tazara runs three trains weekly two 'express' trains between Dar es Salaam and Kapiri Mposhi in Zambia via Mbeya, and an 'ordinary' train between Dar es Salaam and Mbeya. Ordinary trains take about 24 hours between Dar and Mbeya, and cost TSh24,500 18,400 12,200 in lst 2nd economy class. Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it's fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only....

Boat

On the Tanzanian section of Lake Victoria, there are passenger boats connecting Mwanza (Tanzania) with Bukoba, Ukerewe Island and various lakeside villages. In the Kenyan section of the lake, small boats connect the mainland around Mbita Point with Mfangano, Rusinga and the Takawiri Islands. In Uganda small boats connect mainland villages with the Ssese Islands there are also regular cargo boats from Kampala to Mwanza that accept passengers. On Lake Tanganyika, a passenger ferry connects Kigoma...

Hire

Dar es Salaam has a modest array of car-hire agencies. Daily rates for 2WD start about at US 40 excluding fuel, plus US 20 to US 30 for insurance and tax. Prices for 4WD range from US 70 to US 150 per day plus insurance (US 30 to US 40 per day), fuel and driver (US 15 to US 35 per day). There's also a 20 VAT. For anything outside the city, most companies require 4WD. Also, most don't permit self-drive outside of Dar es Salaam, and none presently offer unlimited kilometres. Per kilometre charges...

Diani Beach Ukunda

As the principal package resort on the southern coast, Diani Beach tends to inspire mixed feelings among its various visitors. There's certainly not much Kenyan about the massive hotel complexes that line the long beach, but the setting as a whole is certainly more exotic than your average Mediterranean holiday strip the inland parks and southern islands are within easy reach and the number of activities on offer should be enough to keep even the most cynical tourist from grumbling. If you're...

The Peoples of East Africa

East Africa has a rich mosaic of tribal cultures, with over 300 different groups packed into an area roughly a quarter the size of Australia. The vitality of their traditions is expressed in everything from splendid ceremonial attire to pulsating dance rhythms, refined artistry and highly organised community structure. Experiencing and witnessing all this is likely to be a highlight of your travels. The heartland of the Bantu-speaking Akamba people is in the area east of Nairobi. Relative...

Food Drink

Local food is much the same as elsewhere in the region, except that in Uganda ugaii (food staple made from maize or cassava flour) is called posho, and is far less popular than ma-toke (mashed plantains). Beyond cosmopolitan Kampala, you'll only have the choice of cheap local food, or more expensive Western food from the upmarket hotels and lodges. Indian food is pretty common throughout Uganda, but other international cuisines are only really found in the capital. Most local dishes are...

Kidepo Valley National Park

This lost valley in the extreme northeast of the country, along the border with Sudan, is considered by many to offer the most stunning scenery of any protected area in Uganda. Surrounded by mountains, the Kidepo Valley National Park (entry per one two three or more days US 20 35 50) covers 1440 sq km and is notable for a number of animals that are found nowhere else in Uganda, including cheetahs, ostriches and bat-eared foxes. There are also large concentrations of elephants, zebras, buffaloes...

Land

Rwanda shares land borders with Burundi, DR Congo, Tanzania and Uganda. However, most travellers only tend to use the crossings with Uganda. The main crossing with Tanzania is considered safe, but passes through some pretty remote country. There are also land border crossings with DR Congo, but with the exception of the Gisenyi border post for visiting Goma and the mountain gorillas, it is currently not advisable to cross. Finally the land border with Burundi has to be considered risky as long...

Sights Activities

Featuring some of Kenya's most astounding vistas, trekking the Loroghi Hills Circuit takes a rewarding five days and covers 78km. This trek is detailed in Lonely Planet's Trekking in East Africa. Yare Camel Club & Camp organises guides and camels for independent camel safaris in the region. Self-catered day overnight trips cost US 20 35 per person. Fully catered overnight trips are US 95. Surrounding town is the Maralal National Sanctuary, home to zebras, impalas, hyenas, elephants, elands,...

Warning Security Around Karamojaland

Pay attention to developments in Karamo-jaland in the northeast, as groups of local cattle herders, the Karamojong, have been known to ambush highway travellers. There is often fighting among the Karamojong themselves, and to make matters more complicated, large numbers of Turkana tribesmen from Kenya often cross the border looking to steal cattle - this attracts the attention of the Ugandan army. Sometimes it becomes too dangerous to travel to Mo-roto by road from Soroti because of fighting...

Cultural Tourism Program

To see local life away from the organised safari scene, it's well worth trying a Cultural Tourism Program (CTP) tour. These are 'community-owned' ventures spread in various places around the country, including Ng'iresi, llkiding'a, Mulala, Mkuru and Longido (all accessed from Arusha), Machame (Moshi), Marangu, Engaruka and Mto Wa Mbu, Gezaulole (near Dar es Salaam), the Usambara Mountains (near Lushoto), the northern and southern Pare Mountains and Pangani. They range in length from a few hours...

Arabuko Sokoke Forest Reserve

Close to the marine park at Watamu, Arabuko Sokoke Forest Reserve (adult child US5 IO 5) is the largest tract of indigenous coastal forest remaining in East Africa, with four distinct vegetation zones. Gazetted in 2002 as an International Heritage Site, it's administered jointly by the Forestry Department and KWS, and contains an unusually high concentration of rare species, especially birds (240 species) and butterflies (260 species). A good deal of work has gone into involving the local...

Around Mwanza Bujora Cultural Centre Sukuma Museum

If you're interested in learning about Sukuma culture, the Sukuma Museum & Bujora Cultural Centre (http photo.net sukuma admission TSh3000 8am-6pm Mon-Sat, 1-6pm Sun) makes a worthwhile day trip from Mwanza. Among other things, you'll see traditional Sukuma dwellings, the house of a traditional healer and the royal drum pavilion, built in the shape of the stool used by Sukuma kings. The church in the centre of the grounds was built in 1969 by David Fumbuka Clement, the Quebecois missionary...

Itineraries

This classic beach and bush combination mixes wildlife watching par excellence with postcard-perfect beaches and the allure of Swahili culture, plus the chance for detours in between. You can squeeze in the essential destinations in as little as a week (albeit very pressed), but two to three weeks will allow you to explore at a more leisurely pace and to include some detours. Fly into Nairobi (p278), from where you can head off for a safari in either the Masai Mara National Reserve (p393) or...

Hiking In The Uluguru Mountains

The Uluguru Mountains southeast of Morogoro contain some of the oldest original forest in Africa, and while it is much depleted these days, the range is green and scenic, and offers enjoyable hiking. From Morogoro the most popular route is to Morningside, an old German mountain hut to the south of town at about 1000m (about two to three hours on foot). The path starts at the Regional Administration buildings about 3km south of the town centre at the end of Boma Rd. From here, a track leads...

Moshi

Executive Bureau de Change 1 C3 Fahari Cyber Caf (see 15) Immigration Office 2 B3 C4 Kilimani Pharmacy 4 B4 Project Office (see 18) NBC Bank & ATM 5 D3 Standard Chartered Bank & ATM 6 C4 C4 Bristol Cottages Buffalo Hotel Hi it H I > < l ( < M 1 Kihiii,i(i ,iio ( uric Mutcl Kmdcitcikci He it el I UtlleUn lJtllci l M(i-,t('l I'liilip M.itcl YM( A 15 C5 . 16 C4 17 C5 18 ( To Lutheran Uhuru Hostel (700m) Shanty Town Dispensary (1.5km) Impala Hotel (1.5km) Makoa Farm (15km) Protea Hotel...

Bussi Island

Backpackers Hostel (077-430587 www.backpackers .co.ug camping USh6000, dm USh10,000 bandas USh25,000-50,000) has developed a new island retreat out on Bussi, about 10km from Entebbe in Lake Victoria. The lush camping ground includes a private beach, and it is a short walk to the equator for those who like to have a foot in both hemispheres. It costs USh4000 by boat from Kigungu, a short minibus ride from Entebbe (UShlOOO). Contact Backpackers for more information and keep an eye out for future...

Amani Nature Reserve

This often overlooked nature reserve is located west of Tanga in the heart of the eastern Usambara mountains. It's a peaceful place with some pleasant walks along shady forest paths, and a worthwhile detour for the ornithologically or botanically inclined. At Sigi, there is a good information centre ( 8am-6pm) at the old Station Master's House, with information about the area's plants and animals, history, local medicinal plants and more. The main reserve office ( 027-264 0313 entry fee per...

Gandhi In Uganda

It comes as something of a surprise to find a statue commemorating Mahatma Gandhi (or more precisely, the scattering of his ashes) at a Hindu temple near Jinja. It seems that on Gandhi's death in 1948, his ashes were divided up and sent to many locations around the world to be scattered, and some ended up in the Nile River in Uganda. There were also some that ended up in a bank vault in India and were only released in 1997 following a lengthy custody dispute. when we were in town, but things...

Mt Elgon National Park

With its deep volcanic crater straddling the Kenya-Uganda border and its forested flanks extending well into both countries, massive Mt Elgon is a sight indeed. With the dramatic 7km-wide caldera dotted with several peaks - including the basalt column of Koitoboss (4187m), Kenya's second-highest, and Wagagai (4321m) in Uganda -this extinct volcano offers some of the best treks in Kenya. The national park (adult child US 1575) extends from the lower slopes right up to the border. Despite its...

Tours

Various companies offer organised dhow tours for snorkelling, all leaving Shimoni by 9am. Transfers from north- and south-coast hotels are available (US 10 to US 20), and longer trips with overnight stays can also be arranged. Certified divers can take one two scuba dives for an extra US 30 50 with any of these companies. Main operators Dolphin Dhow (Map p323 52255, office 3202144 www.dolphindhow.com office Barclays Centre, Diani Beach tours US 75) Kisite Dhow Tours (3202331 www.wasini-island...

Beaches

Zanzibar has superb beaches, with the best along the island's east coast and to the north. Although some have become overcrowded and built-up, all offer a wonderful respite from bumping along dusty roads on the mainland. The east coast beaches are protected by coral reefs offshore and have fine, white coral sand. Depending on the season, they may also have lots of seaweed most abundant from December to February . Everyone has a favourite, and which beach you choose is a matter of preference....

Information

There are currently 36 permits per day available to track the mountain gorillas in Pare National des Virungas 28 permits at Bukima and eight permits at Djomba. There is currently almost no wait time to visit the gorillas in DR Congo, as there is no long-term booking system and tour companies are still steering clear for the time being. Security is provided by the Congolese army and rangers are equipped with walkie talkies and GPS units. The rangers speak both English and French and deserve a...

Taita Hills Wundanyi

South of the dirt road from Voi to Taveta are the Taita Hills, a fertile area of verdant hills and scrub forest, a far cry from the semiarid landscape of Tsavo. Within the hills is the private Taita Hills Game Reserve adult child US 23 12 , covering an area of 100 sq km. The landscape is extremely dramatic and all the plains wildlife is in abundance. If you stay at one of the lodges here, you can take a nocturnal wildlife drive, something that's not allowed in the national parks. Wundanyi, the...

Buhoma

Given that there are only 24 gorilla permits per day available, there are a whole lot of lodges competing for business. Most of the upmarket lodges cater to guests on safari and several almost exclusively work with their own clients. There are a couple of tiny hotels scattered throughout Buhoma village, but these are primarily catering for local drivers on safari with their clients. Buhoma Community Rest Camp camping US 3, bandas per person US 10 Enjoying a beautiful setting right next to park...

Nanyuki

El Harama Ranon 42km i Nyahururu 95km To Timau River Lodse 24km lien Trout Guest Cottagej 2Ckm' gt Meru 78km isiolo 81km To Timau River Lodse 24km lien Trout Guest Cottagej 2Ckm' gt Meru 78km isiolo 81km I n2 I Equator 3km Ahstilp 9km OI Rejeta Conservancy 15km ' Naro Moru 24km Nveri 60km I Nairobi 215km Marina Grill amp Restaurant 12 C3 Nanyuki Spinners amp Weavers 15 A1 I n2 I Equator 3km Ahstilp 9km OI Rejeta Conservancy 15km ' Naro Moru 24km Nveri 60km I...

Crater Highlands

The ruggedly beautiful Crater Highlands consist of an elevated range of volcanoes and collapsed volcanoes that rises up from the side of the Great Rift Valley and runs along the eastern edge of the NCA. The peaks include Oldeani 3216m , Makarot Lemagurut, 3132m , Olmoti 3100m , Loolmalasin 3648m , Empakaai 3262m, also spelled Embagai , the still-active 01 Doinyo Lengai 2878m, 'Mountain of God' in Maasai and of course, Ngorongoro 2200m . The main residents of the area are the Maasai, who have...

Chake Chake

Lively Chake Chake, set on a ridge overlooking Chake Chake Bay, is Pemba's main town. Although it has been occupied for centuries, there is little architectural evidence of its past other than the ruins of an 18th-century fort near the hospital, and some ruins at nearby Ras Mkumbuu. Adult Computer Centre connection fee TShlOOO, plus per minute TSh300 8am-8pm On the main Mkoani-Wete road, opposite the telecom building you can also place receive international calls here. Partnership Travel amp...

Eating Drinking

When it comes to food in Entebbe, quite a few people end up eating at their hotel. The Windsor Lake Victoria Hotel has a massive selection of menus, encompassing Chinese, Indian, Italian and fast food. Most dishes cost USh6000 to UShlO.OOO, and they can be ordered poolside. Take a deep breath there's a Lao restaurant in Entebbe. No, not Thai, but Lao. Nuanchan 071 -980018 2 Kintu Rd dishes USh5000-8000 Run by two sisters from Laos living in Entebbe, the small menu is very authentic and includes...

Dangers Annoyances

It's difficult to generalise about personal safety in East Africa. While there are large risks in some areas, other places are as safe as you will find anywhere. The main areas where political turmoil and banditry pose security risks are in parts of Rwanda, Burundi, DR Congo and Uganda, as well as some sections of western Tanzania, and in northern and northeastern Kenya see the country chapters for details, and check with your embassy and knowledgeable locals for security updates and advice if...

Cherangani Hills

Northeast of Kitale and forming the western wall of the spectacular Elgeyo Escarpment are the Cherangani Hills. This high plateau has a distinctly pastoral feel, with thatched huts, patchwork shambas plots of land and wide rolling meadows cut by babbling brooks. You could easily spend weeks exploring here and never come across a single tourist. You won't be alone though, as the plateau is home to the interesting Marakwet people part of the greater Kalenjin grouping , who migrated here from the...

Kigoma Babycome N Call Internet Cafe

There are consulates for Burundi Kakolwa St and DR Congo Kaya Rd , both southwest of the roundabout near the train station. See p252 for visa details. An immigration officer is posted at the port to take care of immigration formalities for travellers departing for Zambia on the MV Liemba. To arrange boat hire, or visits to Combe Stream and Mahale Mountains National Parks, contact Chimpanzee Safaris I280 4435 7, 0741-620154 www.chlmpanzeesafarls.com at Kigoma Hilltop Hotel, or Sunset Tours 280...

Ningaba Sylvestre

Buyoya finally bowed to international pressure, and multiparty elections were held in June 1993. These brought a Hutu-dominated government to power, led by Melchior Nda-daye, himself a Hutu. However, a dissident army faction, led by a Tutsi, Colonel Syl-vestre Ningaba, staged a bloody coup in late October the same year, and assassinated president Ndadaye. The coup eventually failed when army generals disowned the plotters, but in the chaos that followed the assassination, thousands were...

Lake Eyasi

Starkly beautiful Lake Eyasi lies between the Eyasi Escarpment in the north and the Ki-dero Mountains in the south. It's a hot, dry area, around which live the Hadzabe also known as Hadzapi or Tindiga people, who are believed to have lived here for nearly 10,000 years and who continue to follow hunting-and-gathering traditions. Also in the area are the Iraqw Mbulu , a people of Cushitic origin who arrived about 2000 years ago, as well as the Maasai and various Bantu groups. The area is...

Nyeri

Allmendinger Guesthouse

Headquarters 11km Gliding Club J Kenya 11 km Mweiga 13km Aberdare Country Club 13km Allmendinger's Guesthouse 14km SoJio.Game. R eserxa 422km lt Nanyuki 60km Kenya Commerci al B ank Standard Chartered Bank Vegetable lt ioQ w Q Market Clothing Kenya Commerci al B ank Standard Chartered Bank Nyeri Star Restaurant amp Board amp Paresia Bahati Bar amp Restaurant 11 B2 Green Impala Place Town View White Rhino Local Lower Bus Upper Bus Vegetable lt ioQ w Q Market Clothing rougher around the edges...

Conversation Essentials

Greetings are probably the most important vocabulary for a traveller to East Africa. It's worth taking the time to familiarise yourself with the few we include here. Jambo is a pidgin Swahili word, used to greet tourists who are presumed not to understand the language. There are two possible responses Jambo meaning 'Hello, now please speak to me in English' , and Sijambo or 'Things aren't bad with me, and I'm willing to try a little Swahili' . If people assume you can speak a little Swahili,...

Matthews Range

West of the remarkable flat-topped mountain 01 Lolokwe and north of Wamba is the Matthews Range. Its thick evergreen forests support elephants, lions, buffaloes and Kenya's most important wild dog population. These dramatic mountains highest peak 2285m offer great opportunities to explore the depths of Kenya's wilds. With few roads, only those willing to go the extra mile on foot will be rewarded with the spoils. In 1995 local Samburu communities collectively formed the Namunyak Wildlife...

Njombe

Njombe is a workaday town that would be completely unmemorable but for its highly scenic setting on the eastern edge of the Kipengere mountain range at almost 2000m, surrounded by hills that roll into the horizon. There's no tourist infrastructure, so any hiking will need to be under your own steam and with a GPS. For a few route suggestions, look for A Guide to the Southern Highlands of Tanzania, available at some hotels. chani Motel 0 278 2357 s d TSh8500 10,500 is Njombe's best, with running...

Kasese

To Golf Course 2km x Margherita Hotel 2.5km Kilembe 20km INFORMATION Centenary Rural Development Reroc Internet Stanbic Bank Western Union Rwenzori National Park Office 3 B1 To Golf Course 2km x Margherita Hotel 2.5km Kilembe 20km Rwenzori National Park Office 3 B1 Good Times Restaurant 7 B2 Titi's Supermarket 8 B2 Comfort Zone 10 B3 Friends Comer 11 B3 Taxis to Kilembe 13 B2 To Rwenzori National Park 17km To'rt Porta 74Km ' National P rk i,40km gt Mba ariil lkmi . i abale 201km iff Kampala...

Organised Treks

If time is limited or you'd prefer someone else to make all the trekking arrangements, there are plenty of possibilities. All-inclusive packages - which include park entry and camping fees, food, huts, a guide, cook and porters, and transfers to and from the mountain - can be a good deal, particularly if you don't have any equipment. Picking the right company is even more important here than on a normal wildlife safari, as an unqualified or inexperienced guide could put you in real danger as...

Kitulo Plateau

Nestled at about 2600m in the highlands northeast of Tukuyu is this flower-clad plateau, part of which is protected as Kitulo National Park. During the rainy season from about November until April, it explodes in a profusion of colour, with terrestrial orchids over 50 species have been identified thus far , irises, aloes, geraniums and many more flowers carpeting its grassy expanses. The best months for seeing the orchids - the plateau's most renowned resident - are December through March,...

Uganda Directory

This section covers information specific to Uganda. For general information applicable to the region, see p617. Almost every destination in Uganda offers some sort of camping, so it's worth carrying a tent if you're on a budget. Kampala has several options, as do most other popular towns and all the national parks. The cost of camping is usually USh3000 to UShlO.OOO per person per day, plus the entry fee if you're staying at a national park US 10 to US 20 per person per day . When it comes to...

Kasanga Kalambo Falls

The 250m Kalambo Falls, southwest of Sumbawanga on the Zambian border, is the second-highest single-drop waterfall in Africa. Several significant Stone Age archaeological finds have been made in the surrounding area. It's possible to reach the falls from Kasanga you'll need to look for a lift towards the falls, and then walk for about four hours in each direction. There's a very basic guesthouse r with shared bathroom about TSh2000 in the Muzei section of Kasanga. Tracks go sporadically between...

Karatu

This small, scruffy town about 15km east of Lodoare Gate is surrounded by some beautiful countryside, and makes a convenient base for visiting Ngorongoro. There is a post office, an NBC branch that exchanges cash and travellers cheques and has an ATM, and Bytes Internet Caf per hr TSh2000 8am-11pm , which is also good for food. In addition to the following listings, there are several basic guesthouses in the centre of town, all of about the same standard, and all with rooms for about TSh3000....

Where Is Fedha Towers In Nakuru

Whether you take a camping safari or a lodge safari, there's a plethora of options available ranging from two days to 15 days and, in some cases, up to six weeks. Most shorter itineraries of half a week or less concentrate on Masai Mara National Reserve and Lake Nakuru National Park, while short Amboseli and Tsavo National Parks safaris are also common. You'll need a little more time to head north to the popular Samburu and Buffalo Springs National Reserves, while a week will give you time to...

Public Holidays

In Tanzania and in parts of Kenya, especially along the coast, major Islamic holidays are also celebrated as public holidays. The dates depend on the moon and fall about 11 days earlier each year. The most important ones Eid al-Moulid Maulid The birthday of the Prophet Mohammed. Ramadan The annual 30-day fast when adherents do not eat or drink from sunrise to sunset. Eid al-Fitr The end of Ramadan, and East Africa s most important Islamic celebration celebrated as a two-day holiday in many...