Cuiming Zhuang Binguan This sleepy little three-star, built inside a Republican-era government complex west of Wangfujing Dajie, is just a 10-minute walk east of the Forbidden City. Rooms are smallish, simply but comfortably furnished, and kept very clean. Staff is kinder than in other state-run hotels of this kind.

Nanhe Yan 1, Dongcheng District (at intersection with Dong'an Men Jie). & 010/6513-6622. Fax 010/ 6525-7387.134 units. AE, DC, MC, V. ¥600 ($75) standard twin (summer discount rates around ¥480/$60). Amenities: Restaurant; bar; exercise room; business center; forex; laundry. In room: AC, satellite TV, fridge,

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