Yunfeng Shan ilitlij

A Taoist mountain located 47km north of Tengchong, Yunfeng Shan (Cloudy PeakMountain admission Y60), is dotted with 17th-century temples and monastic retreats. Most people take the cable car (one way return Y30 50), from where it's a 20-minute walk to Daxiong Baodian (XM Six), a temple at the summit. Luzu Dian (Uti. Mx), the temple second from the top, serves up great vegetarian food at lunchtime. It's a quick walk down but it can be hard on the knees. To get to the mountain, go to Huoshan Lu...

Fanjing Shan Nature Reserve it a ill

This 2572m Buddhist mountain (FanjingShan Ziran Baohugu admission Y70) is home to the rare golden monkey (jinsihou) and is one of the most important conservation areas in Guizhou. Thousands of stairs weave their way through the pristine scenery to a monastery at the top. Not many foreign travellers come here, but it has become a popular trip for Chinese pilgrims and nature lovers. Set among the Willing Shan range, this reserve provides a home to over half the province's protected plants and...

The naxi ifl

Lijiang has been the base of the 286,000 strong Naxi (also spelt Nakhi and Nahi) minority for about the last 1400 years. The Naxi descend from ethnically Tibetan Qiang tribes and lived until recently in matrilineal families. Since local rulers were always male it wasn't truly matriarchal, but women still seem to run the show, certainly in the old part of Lijiang. The Naxi matriarchs maintained their hold over the men with flexible arrangements for love affairs. The azhu (friend) system allowed...

The Tibetans

Population 4.6 million in China and one million in China's Southwest Location Western Sichuan (GanzTand Aba Autonomous Prefectures and Muli Autonomous County) northwestern Sichuan (Zhongdian and DeqTn Counties) northwest Yunnan (DeqTn Prefecture) Western Sichuan and the extreme northwest of Yunnan were once part of the Tibetan province of Kham and remain distinctly Tibetan to this day, despite large-scale Han Chinese immigration. Almost the entire region is comprised of Tibetan Autonomous...

Roads Less Travelled

WESTERN SICHUAN & Two to Three Weeks THE TIBETAN BORDERLANDS Chengdu to Dege or Serxu (Shiqii) Due to altitude, this trip through the west and northwest of Sichuan should not be attempted during the big freeze from November to March and April, only during the warmer months of late spring or summer (and even then be fully prepared for sudden temperature drops). From Chengdu (p358) take a bus to Kangding (p387) in western Sichuan and consider expeditions to its surrounding sights, such as the...

Budget

Kunming Cloudland Youth Hostel ( BHirjp JBIRj& tt Kunming Qingnian Dajiaoshi Lushe 410 3777 www.doudland2004.com cloudland2005 126.com 23 Zhuantang Lu S& 23- - 6- 4-bed dm Y20 30 IB)) The newest of the city's hostels (run by a couple of oh-so-friendly inveterate travellers who know Yunnan like the backs of their hands), this place is absolutely charming with a staff that makes a tremendous effort for guests. Dorms are spanking new and comfortable beds are soft and each comes with an...

Western Sichuan To Yunnan

Two to Three or Four Weeks Kangding to Deqin This magnificent route also begins in Kangding (p390) in western Sichuan, but leads onto the southern arm of the Sichuan-Tibet Hwy. Spend several days sightseeing around Kangding before the eight-hour bus trip to the Tibetan town of Litang (p402). Spend several days here trekkingin the hills and see the Litang section (p402) and the Health chapter (p499) for details about altitude sickness. From Litang, either take a long, long bus journey to Batang...

Zhenghe ParkPfPil

At the southwest corner of Dian Chi, this park (Zhenghe Gongyuan) commemorates the Ming dynasty navigator Zheng He (known as Admiral Cheng Ho outside China). A mausoleum here holds tablets with descriptions of his life and works. Zheng He, a Muslim, made seven voyages to more than 30 Asian and African countries in the 15 th century, in command of a huge imperial fleet. For a bit more detail, see the Hui, p227. From Xiaoximen bus station take the bus to Jinning the park is on a hill overlooking...

Sleeping Eating

The old monasteries offer food, shelter and sights all rolled into one. While some travellers complain about the spartan and somewhat damp conditions, others love what may be as many as a thousand years of character. A few of the monasteries at key junctions have posted prices, but at others you may well have to bargain with the monks. You can expect to pay between Y20 and Y40 for a bed in a dorm room (the cheapest beds are reserved for pilgrims), with plumbing and electricity provided in those...

Around Zhenyuan IH

The Wuyang He (Wuyang River) runs through a scenic area packed with white limestone gorges and weirdly shaped rocks cut by waterfalls and topped with lush green vegetation. There are three mini-gorges along the river West Gorge, Dragon King Gorge and Zhuge Gorge - plus plenty of spuriously named peaks, the most famous of which is Peacock-Tailed Peak. Boats tour the main river gorges and the side creeks of the Xiangjian and Baishui Rivers. The docks are 17km west of Zhenyuan and 1km off the main...

Getting there away

Minibuses (one way return Y10 20, one hour, 7.30am to 2pm) leave when full from opposite the Yunnan Fandian. The only trouble is you could be waiting for ages for the bus to fill up. It's more reliable to use local buses take bus 5 from the Kunming Hotel to the terminus at Liangjiahe, and then change to bus 6, which will take you to Gaoyao bus station at the foot of the hills. Minibuses (Y5) also leave from Liangjiahe and drop passengers off at the Tomb of Nie Er. To return to Kunming take the...

Ten Thousand Peak Hills JjbM

The karst landscape to the south of Xingyi is called Ten Thousand Peak Hills (Wanfengling 0 334 2299 admission Y61 S 8am-6pm) and the short rolling karst formations of this area seemingly go on forever. The scenic spot (often called 'the Stone Forest' by locals) is actually just a section where a fancy road has been built around the hills, the various views and karst formations have been given spiffy names, and a ticket booth has been set up. If you arrive by taxi or bus, you'll be ferried...

LSHN iRJ

ggLgus Station (6km) Jiajiang (30km) Thousand Buddha O Ts (SOkm) m i Shan (35km) Ch i t& M& ks tour boats (Y50 S 7.30am-6.30pm 1 Apr-7 Oct, 8am-5.30pm 8 Oct-31 Mar) and smaller speedboats (Y50 S 7.30am-7.30pm) leave regularly throughout the day from the dock near the central bus station. The third option is to take the bargain ferry (Y3) that leaves from a small dock not far from the Taoyuan Binguan next to the Sleeping Buddha Tea Pavilion. This cheap option doesn't stop in front of the...

Golden Summit Temple

This magnificent but clearly recendy renovated temple (Jinding Si) at the Golden Summit (Jin Ding 3077m) is as far as most hikers make it. Covered with glazed tiles and surrounded by white marble balustrades, the temple now occupies 1695 sq metres. The original temple had a bronze-coated roof, which is how it got the name Jin Ding (which can also mean 'Gold Top'). It's constandy overrun with tourists, pilgrims and monks, and you'll be continuously bumped and josded. Sadly, the sun rarely forces...

Wildlife

China's Southwest is endowed with an extremely diverse range of natural vegetation and animal life. Unfortunately, humans have had a considerable impact and much of China's rich natural heritage is rare, endangered or Travelling through the northwest of Sichuan, you'll inevitably encounter the yak. Huge and silent, they'll eye you up from the other side of the bus window as they're herded along by nomadic Tibetans. Unlike you and me, these animals thrive at 1070m to 1220m with a whole lot of...

Around Weining

Weining is useful as a base to visit remote Yi and Miao villages in the region, though you'll really have to rough it as facilities are very limited in this area. If you want to explore, locals recommend Longjie (ifeiij), 60km northwest of Weining. The town of Jinzhong (ifeit), 16km east on the road to Shuicheng ( Kit ), is also said to have a great market every three or four days. On the 5th of the fifth lunar month there is horse racing in some Yi villages around Weining and a Flower Dance...

Snakebone pagoda shegu ta

Good views from here, some 3km north of Xiaguan in Yangping village at the base of Ma'er Peak, but an even better tale. The pagoda was raised in memory of a legendary Bai man who strapped knives to his body and allowed a boa constrictor dragon terrorising Erhai Lake to devour him, which killed the beast. Just south of here, at the base of Xieyang Peak, is Baoling Si, which houses a statue of the local hero and the God of the White Dragon King he killed. Southwest of Xiaguan, a few kilometres in...

Fuguo Monastery

West of Baisha lies the remains of the temple (Fuguo Si), once the largest of Lijiang's monasteries. Much of it was destroyed during the Cultural Revolution and a couple of remaining buildings were moved to Lijiang's Black Dragon Pool Park. Look out for the Hufa Hall in the monastery compound the interior walls have some interesting frescoes. To get there head west from the main intersection in Baisha until you reach a small village. Turn right at the fork in the road, continue for around 500m...

Around Rongjiang

On the road to Sandu, 25km west of Rongjiang, Bakai (ATF) is a small Dong village with a traditional Sunday market. The one-hour bus ride also passes the villages of Dujiang ( il), set at a strategically important bend in the I river, and Layou, a picturesque village on the I southern side of the river recognisable by its I old humpbacked bridge. You could stop off I in these towns and go for a wander if you're I H interested in exploring some Dong villages. A more demanding excursion takes you...

Tailored Trips

Lu d iO OL ngzhong Hu ngl ng XiO Ancient ngql ng Town O D h ng Guly ngO OK ilT QTngy nO L ngsh ng Sani iangcPSJj.anSt uz h OGuiMn DaxuO Hu ngy o O D aTnO ODioch ng DeqinO OYad ng N f Shangri-ia0n0Lugu Lake feo VoY l ng Xu shan THE TRADITIONAL VILLAGE & TOWN TOUR From Guil n (pl54) visit Ji ngt uzh u (pl64) in beautiful karst surroundings and take a bus to D x (pl65) on the Li River. Overnight amid the historic architecture of Hu ngy o (pi 79), then explore Zhuangand Yao villages around L...

The Bouyi

The Bouyi, the 'aborigines' of Guizhou, are of Thai origin and closely related to the Zhuang of GuangxT. Most travellers will come upon them in the Huangguoshu and Anshun areas. They are generally very poor, in sharp contrast with the postcard images of starched and ironed costumes or ring-of-confidence sparkling teeth. Bouyi dress is dark and sombre, with colourful trimmings. Both men and women wear white- or blue-checked head scarves. Batik cloth dyeing is one of the many skills of the Bouyi....

Gorge trek

There are two trails the higher (the older route, known as the 24-bend path) and the lower, the new road, replete with belching tour buses. Only the high trail is worth hiking. Arrows help you avoid getting lost. Then again, as one of our all-time favourite traveller quotes goes, 'Remember the high road leaves less time for drinking beer in Walnut Garden'. The following route starts at Qiaotou. To get to the high road, after crossing through the gate, cross a small stream and go 150m. Take a...

Transport

The landscape is viewable in a day, but you can spend the night in the village of Ping'an at the heart of the Dragon's Backbone Rice Terraces and allow yourself more time to visit the sights and make the long trek to the village of Dazhai. Terraies C-Ohn) Fms'sn O'Am) Guilin g< JJI'.m> Well within the geographic and cultural orbit of Guizh u and H n n, the L ngsh ng region is a beguiling patchwork of Dong, Zhuang, Yao and Miao minority villages. Other villages can be visited en route...

Zuo Jiang Scenic Area

Roughly 190km southwest of Nanning, Zuojiang Scenic Area (Zuojiang Fengjingqu) provides opportunities to view karst formations, with the added attraction that the region is home to around 80 groups of Zhuang-mi-nority rock paintings. The area is also one of the last remaining habitats of the rare white-headed leaf monkey. There's no reason to dwell in Ningming. The town is the launching point for a Zuojiang adventure but, to be brutally honest, you do not want to spend any longer here than is...

T

Table tennis 43 Tagong Grasslands 393-5 Tagong Temple 393 taichi 43,170 Taihua Temple 236 Taijiang 132 taijiquan 43,170 Taijitii 257 Taiping Rebellion 26, 198-9 Tang dynasty 25,27, 28 Tao Te Ching 45 Taoism 45 taxis 490 TC G Nordica 227 tea 71, 72, 330 telephone services 474-5 television 44 Temple of Heaven Park 83 temples & pagodas, iff also monasteries Bal Ta 240-1 Bamboo Temple 234-5 Baohua Si 318 Baolun Si 443-4 Black Pagoda 336-7 Chaoyang Temple 214 Chongsheng Temple 259 Confucian...

Chongzuo gtE

0 0771 pop 330,000 www.chongzuo.net At the 122km point along the train line from Nanning to Pingxiang is this pleasant, manageable city, well worth a stop for its Ecology Park, distinctive leaning pagoda and Stone Forest. Chongzuo is largely situated south of the Zuo River (IjLtLy Zuojiang) as it loops though town. Jiangnan Lu (ttjiiSir Jiangnan Lu), the principal road running east-west, is intersected at right angles by busy Xinmin Lu (0T K Sir Xinmin Lu). The long-distance bus station is on...

Hailuogou Glacier Park

Hailuogou Glacier slides - literally - off the eastern slopes of Gongga Shan to form the lowest glacier in Asia. No 1 Glacier ( frjc jl Yihao Bingchuan), the main glacier, is 14km long and covers an area of 16 sq km. It's relatively young as glaciers go around 1600 years old. The top of Hailuogou can offer incredible vistas of Gongga Shan and the surrounding peaks, all above 6000m, but how much you actually see is entirely up to Mother Nature. Constandy framed with a backdrop of snowy peaks,...

Ocean Person

Westerners without Chinese-language skills will be oblivious to the sheer variety of local slang for foreigners. Laowai ( K i'b) - which literally means 'person from the outside' - or 'foreigner' -remains ubiquitous and you will hear the epithet repeatedly voiced, typically by Chinese men. Despite decades of exposure to Western films, the sudden appearance of Westerners can still spark considerable curiosity. Waiguoren (literally 'person from a foreign country') is a politer alternative and is...

Detian Waterfall fliti

The world's second-largest transnational cataract with a total width of 200m, Detian Waterfall (Detian Pubu Ig 0771-263 6808 www.detian. com admission Y80 S dawn to dusk) is Asia's largest. It may not be Niagara Falls, but the waterfall is still fantastic and the setting sublime, with its descending levels and powerful cacophony of water. On top of viewing the gorgeous falls spilling down in huge pleats of water into secondary and tertiary cascades, there's the spectacle of the surrounding...

Baohua park

On the southeastern outskirts of downtown Gejiu, largish and pretty Baohua Park (Baohua Gongyuan admission Y2) butts up against Qiling Hill and is built around Baohua Si (Baohua Temple). The temple was constructed from 1670 to 1675 during the Qing dynasty by a Taoist monk. Later expansions took place in the 20th century. Many of the pavilions and temples have faded but the Lingguan Pavilion, Liang Hall and Baiy-uan Tower have all been preserved. Footpaths wind through the park, taking in some...

Gongga Monastery ta PJlf

This monastery (Gongga - or Konka or Kong-kar - Gompa) is situated at the western foot of Gongga Shan, a mountain increasingly popular with hardcore, experienced mountain climbers. The monastery was ravaged during the Cultural Revolution but is currendy enjoying something of a revival. It is of the Kagyu sect of Tibetan Buddhism and forms part of a pilgrimage route around the holy Minya Konka, the local Tibetan name for Gongga Shan. The monastery is very remote and can only be reached on foot...

Sleeping

Chongqing may not be a Pearl of the Orient, the Paris of the East, or a modern, Olympic host city. But at least the price of a night's accommodation reflects this - it's up to a third less than what you'd pay in Hong Kong, Shanghai or Beijing. Unfortunately, there's little in the way of true budget accommodation, but dependable standard midrange options can be had for not much more than a budget room. If you can afford the splurge, top-end living is ultimately the best bargain. Always ask for a...

Around ruili

Most of the sights around Ruili can be explored easily by bicycle. It's worth making frequent detours down the narrow paths leading off the main roads to visit minority villages. The people are friendly, and there are lots of photo opportunities. The Tourism and Tra ffic Map of Ruili shows the major roads and villages. The shortest ride is to turn left at the corner north of the post office and continue out of the town proper into the little village of Mengmao. There are half a dozen Shan...

Orientation

The jurisdiction of K nm ng includes four city districts and eight rural counties, which supply the city with fruit and vegetables. The centre of the city is the traffic circle at the intersection of Zhengyi Lu and Dongfeng Lu (this street is also for a few blocks called Nanping Jie). To the southwest of the intersection, down to Jinbi Lu, the old quarter has given way to K nm ng's only area of bustie and neon -best for people-watching. To the north of the intersection is Green Lake Park, a...

Emerald Pagoda Lake Shudu Lake H

Some 25km east of Shangri-la, the bus to Sanba (see Baishuitai, following) can drop you along the highway for Emerald Pagoda Lake (Bita Hai admission Y190), which is 8km down a trail (a half-hour by pony). Yes, this is an absolutely laughable admission price, and it was just being introduced at the time of writing. Hopefully there will be enough outcry (and subsequent drop in tourism) for officials to rethink this. If you do decide to visit, there are lots of hiking options and ponies can be...

Rongshui fijC

Another town central to Guangxi's minority culture, Rongshui is a possible third node on a Longsheng-Sanjiang-Rongshui loop out of Guilin for travellers not crossing into Guizhou. Thirteen minority groups are represented in this county, with Miao making up 37 of the total. Large numbers of Yao, Zhuang and Dong also live in the county. Apart from the minority cultural experience, Rongshui's most famous attraction is Yuanbao Shan, a couple of hours to the northwest, a rustic mountain with some...

Kngding Dardo Darsedo

The biggest city in the region, K ngding's core is amass of busy shopping streets surrounded by eerie, underpopulated clusters of low grey buildings. Most travellers doing the Tibetan Hwy will need to stay in K ngding at least one night, though there are lots of places to explore in the outlying areas if you want to hang around longer. K ngding is also famous throughout China for a popular love song called the 'K ngding Love Song' that the town's surrounding scenery inspired. The comma-shaped...

Dragon Bridge

With its higgledy-piggledy steps, this lovely arched bridge (Yulong Qiao) was built in 1412 during the Ming dynasty and is among Guangxi's largest at 59m long, 5m wide and 9m high. Note how the walls of the bridge lean inwards with age. It would take a full day to head up to Dragon Bridge and come back on the trails by bike, but definitely worth it. Pack your lunch and some water and enjoy a picnic along the banks of the Yulong River. From Yangshuo, head out towards Moon Hill and, before...

Recommended Vaccinations

Specialised travel-medicine clinics are your best source of information they stock all available vaccines and will be able to give specific recommendations for you and your trip. The doctors will take into account factors such as past vaccination history, the length of your trip, activities you may be undertaking and underlying medical conditions, such as pregnancy. Most vaccines don't produce immunity in individuals until at least two weeks after they're given, so visit a doctor six to eight...

Customs

Chinese customs generally pay tourists little attention. There are clearly marked 'green channels' and 'red channels'. Duty-free, you're allowed to import 400 cigarettes or the equivalent, two bottles of wine or spirits and 50g of gold or silver. Importing fresh fruit and cold cuts is prohibited. You can legally only bring in or take out Y6000 in Chinese currency. There are no restrictions on foreign currency however, you should declare any cash exceeding US 5000 (or its equivalent in another...

Around Maerkang

For intrepid travellers, the forested valley around Ma'erkang is sprinkled with Tibetan villages and is well worth exploring. Just get out on the main road and hail down anything buslike heading out of town. Zhuokeji - jSSS Choktse is a compact Tibetan village around 7km east of town. Just above the cluster of stone houses is a derelict watchtower fortress that once belonged to a local chieftain and in which Mao Zedong is said to have slept when the Long March passed by. There are several...

Activities

The areas around Songpan are dotted with idyllic mountain woods and emerald-green lakes. One of the most popular ways to experience the scenery is by horse trek. Guides can take you out through pristine valleys and peaceful forests, all aboard a not-so-big, very tame horse. Many travellers - from hardy backpackers to families with children - rate this experience as one of the highlights of their travels in Sichuan. Treks are organised by Shun Jiang Horse Treks Shunjiang L y uM dui 0 7231201...

Sights Activities

At the north end of Huancheng Beilu is Jingf ng G ngyu n jftj - lzl Jingfeng Park , a meander-worthy park of skyscraperesque yet droopy pines, flower-lined paths and some fine historic structures right near the entrance, including a somnolendy proud pagoda, a Confucian temple, and a memorial hall to local Bai success stories. The real highlight in town is the extant Ming and Qing architecture. Nearly two dozen residential courtyards are quite well preserved. An architectural stroll is lovely...

Digging in the dirt

Budding palaeontologists and anthropologists will love the Ch xi ng region. Near L f ng, in the region's east, bone fragments of palaeo-anthropoids two to eight million years old have been unearthed. Over 120 dinosaurs dating back up to 200 million years have also been found here in what is though to be one of the world's largest dinosaur burial grounds, and a dinosaur museum has recently been established. The famed Yuanmou Man was unearthed near Shangnabang village in Yu nm u, bordering Ch xi...

The Yubeng Kawa Karpo Treks

A trek to the fabulous Yubeng Waterfall MtiTiilS Yubeng Shenpu is an adventurous trip and fast becoming one of the most popular 'other' treks for those dismayed by the numbers of trekkers along the Tiger Leaping Gorge. At the bridge over the Mekong River the road leads 6km to Xidang and another 3km or so to a hot spring. Then it's possible to arrange pony hire to take you 25km four to six hours to Yubeng village, where there are half a dozen basic guesthouses, including Mystic Waterfall Lodge...

Sanjiang

Xinglianxin Hotel Sf tlS Xingliangxin Binguan 862 6988 11 Furong Lu IMl1- - s d tr q Y50 78 98 128 E Cheap and clean rooms with air-con, shower squat loo , TV and heating in this new outfit just up from the Sanjiang Hotel. Look for the sign that simply says 'hotel', next to a Lianhua supermarket branch. Modest discounts available. Chengyang Qiao Hotel fSPBfS5 iii Chengyang-qiao Binguan 861 7431 s Y108-118, d Y138-158 IE Next to the Agricultural Bank of China, scuffed rooms are OK here with...

Nanjiang Xiagu riJ rJiJ

This valley located about 90 minutes outside of Guiyang is beautiful. Waterfalls plunge over its edges and clusters of Bouyi villages nestle among the lush greenery and rice terraces. One long, winding road goes through it all and the scenery seems to go on forever. This area hasn't been developed for tourism at all and no English is spoken anywhere. However, there are some subtle signs that may slowly change. A couple of viewing pavilions have been built near some of the more attractive and...

Shangqingsi Roundabout To Liberation Monument By

Have also inspired masterworks of Chinese literature and art. Major historical sites have disappeared and a few have been transplanted since the Three Gorges Dam opened in 2006. But the mountains remain the stuff of paintings, despite losing 145m and counting to rising waters. For details on Yangzi River trips see p461. Cruise tickets can be purchased through your hotel or from the agencies around Chaotianmen, although shop carefully as amenities vary greatly while prices may not. The main...

Drinking

When it comes to Chongqing nightlife, a couple of ground rules apply hotspots all turn over fast and frequently, so you should ask around for the latest obsession and, in these parts a good time starts with green tea-whiskey cocktails and invariably ends at a KTV karaoke bar. So you can consider yourself warned. Deyi Shijie Minquan Lu amp Xinhua Lu KfeSft W T Start the night at this massive KTV bar and club complex with a constantly changing line-up of tenants including some of the following...

Stone Forest

About 4.5km from town, Ch ngzu 's diminutive Stone Forest Sh l n admission Y10 is a rather contrived geological attraction of jagged limestone formations, but the maze of rocks can be surprisingly tranquil, especially if you visit late in the afternoon. It's more than an hour's walk from town. A motorcycle taxi is about Y5. A few decent hotels can be found near the long-distance bus and train stations. Jinyuan Luguan ifeHtfeif 0 783 0894 Jiang-nan Lu illSSI s Y20-50, tw Y30 IE Very simple...

Baishuitai fijCn

Breathtaking scenery, possible pony rides, and a splendid chain of Tibetan villages leads to Baishuitai admission Y30 , a limestone deposit plateau 108km southeast of Shangri-la. For good reason has this become probably the most popular slow route between Lijiang and Shangri-la. The terraces, reminiscent of those found in Pamukkale in Turkey or Huanglong in Sichuan, are resplendent in sunlight, but can be tough to get to if rainfall has made trails slick. The terraces are around the small Naxi...

Drung Valley Dulong Jiang

Separated from the Nujiang Valley by the high Gaoligong Shan range and only reached by road in 1999, this is one of the remotest valleys in China. The valley is home to the Drung ethnic group see the boxed text, p300 . The Drung River actually flows out of China into Myanmar, where it eventually joins the Irrawaddy. At present there are no buses into the valley. You'd have to hire a minivan from Gongshan for the rough 96km trip to the county capital Dulongjiang. Beyond that, most travel is on...

The Bangbang Army

Ever since the first resident could not carry his groceries up the stairs of this mountain city, these porters for hire have been an essential element of Chongqing. The Bangbang are named for the characteristic bamboo pole or 'bang' they carry on their shoulders. They hustle for work around the docks, bus stations and department stores, offering to climb where no cart or mule could go, carrying loads few could bear and only earning an average Y100 a week. Their numbers exploded in the 1990s...

Trekking the nujiang valley region

Looking at maps, hiking over the mountains into the Mekong Valley, particularly from G ngsh n to YezhT or Y nm n in D qTn prefecture seems a snap, but once there it's clear that you need a trustworthy guide and camping equipment. One route from F g ng to Y n W V L is covered in the F g ng section see p299 . Pilgrimage trekking routes lead from the north of the valley into Tibet to join a pilgrimage circuit of Kawa Karpo see p296 but again you'd need to arrange this with an expert travel agency....

Emei Shan

Emei Mountain Distances

Declare Nation Temple to Long Life Monastery Long Life Monastery to Elephant Bathing Pool Elephant Bathing Pool to Jieyin Hall Jieyin Hall to Golden Summit Temple Golden Summit Temple to Elephant Bathing Pool Elephant Bathing Pool to Immortal Peak Monastery Immortal Peak Monastery to Venerable Trees Terrace 6km Venerable Trees Terrace to Pure Sound Pavilion 6km Pure Sound Pavilion to Leiyin Temple 9 5km Leiyin Temple to Crouching Tiger Monastery 1 5km Crouching Tiger Monastery to Declare Nation...

Taxi

Taxi flagfall is Y7, plus a Y1 petrol charge. If you like the look of a taxi driver, book him or her for the day to whisk you around Guilin's sights. A car will cost around Y100 for a daylong tour if you don't have the time or the inclination to take to public transport, but remember that few taxi drivers speak any English. AROUND GUILIN Jiangtouzhou i I -Jf With its gorgeous narrow cobblestone alleyways, bucolic rhythms and pastoral aspect, this peaceful village - located in a region where...

Yading Nature Reserve ET Mffi

Stunning alpine scenery, snow-capped peaks and endless opportunities for horse treks draw more and more people to this nature reserve Yading Ziran Baohugu admission Y150 S ticket office 8am-6.30pm each year. The terrain is also dotted with lakes and monasteries and is the reason Daocheng is increasingly showing up on travellers' itineraries. The ticket office is open year-round, except when snow occasionally closes the road in winter. The best time to visit is autumn when the colours are...

SIGHTS

From Central ifi your first port of call should be the Victoria Peak til II at 552m it's the highest point on Hong Kong Island. The best way to get there is via the thrilling Peak Tram tijTiSt 2522 0922 www.thepeak.com .hk one-way return adult HKS22 33, child amp senlor HKS8 15 S 7am-mldnight , a funicular running every 10 to 15 minutes from the lower terminus behind St John's Building at 33 Garden Rd, Central, to the recently renovated Peak Tower SeW fill at the top. The views in clear weather...