Honey Lake Resort

Almost every kind of leisure facility is on the city's doorstep at Honey Lake, including a large amusement park, shopping mall, golf courses and indoor and outdoor pools. Shennan Rd, Futian district 8370 8988 Adm For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal) and extra charges. For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal) and extra charges. under HK 100 HK l00-250 HK 250-450 HK 450-600 over HK 600 Terrific classic Cantonese...

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Dragon-i 52, 64 driving 136, 138, 140 drugs 140 Duke of York 107 Duddell Street 62 Dynasty 87 Elliot, Captain Charles 31 emergencies 140 Empire Hotel 151 Empire Hotel, Kowloon 149 Escalator 40, 41, 59 ethnicity 34-5 Excelsior, The 148 Exchange Square 59 Exp 99 Fairwood 93 Fanling 104 Fashion Walk 70 Fat Angelo's 71 Fat Jong Temple 96 faxing 142 Fa Yuen Building 92 Feather Boa 53, 64 Felicity Hotel 150 Felix 52, 84, 87 feng shui 33 Fernando's 121, 125 ferries 40, 138 (see also Star Ferry)...

Star Ferry

One of Hong Kong's best- oved institutions, the Star Ferries have plied between Kowloon and Hong Kong Island since 1888. The portly green and white 1950s and 60s relics are still used by commuters despite the advent of rail and road tunnels beneath the harbour. A ferry ride offers a thrilling perspective on the towering skyscrapers and the jungle-clad hills of Hong Kong Island. Take an evening voyage for the harbour's neon spectacle, especially the elaborate light displays at Christmas. o The...

IO Modern Buildings

Sir Norman Foster's striking, Bladerunner-esque edifice cost a whopping HK 5.2bn, making it the world's priciest pile when it opened in 1985. The headquarters of the Hong Kong and Shanghai Banking Corporation are reputed to have some of the best feng shui around - the building sits on a rare confluence of five dragon lines and enjoys unimpeded harbour views. The soaring atrium feels like a cathedral, which might explain why on Sundays the ground level is taken over by chattering Filipina maids....

Nightclubs

The shining pinnacle of Hong Kong bars is set in Kowloon's famous Peninsula Hotel. Philippe Starcke designed Felix, and the result is coolness incarnate. Let the experience envelope you, beginning with the dedicated elevators and their light effects, to the untrammelled delights of Felix's restrooms. The harbour views are an added bonus. If you plan to visit just one bar in Hong Kong, make this the one (see p87). Any club that has brass plaques screwed to the bar top, commemorating members who...

ElO Cheap Sleeps

If location isn't important then consider the YWCA-run Anne Black Guest House stuck out in Mongkok. The rooms (either with private or communal bathrooms) are basic but clean with air-conditioning, TV, and telephone. d 5 Man Fuk Rd, Kowloon Map E4 2713 9211 www.ywca. org.hk Air-conditioned rooms with shower, fridge, phone, bath and TV are merely adequate but the location and prices are great at this Salvation Army-run hotel. d 11 Wing Sing Lane, Yau Ma Tei, Kowloon www.boothlodge....

Hong Kong Dishes

This is virtually Hong Kong's national dish. The name literally means fork roast. The tender fillets of pork are roasted and glazed in honey and spices, and hung in the windows of specialist roast meat shops. Cha siu is classically served thinly sliced, with steamed rice and strips of vegetables. Made of moist pastry Steamed and various fillings, inclu- whole fish ding lotus, taro, adzuki bean, whole egg yolk and occasionally coconut, the delicacy also has a quirky history revolutionaries in...

ElO Mid Range Hotels Macau China

Close by Lisboa's many casinos and convenient for the centre of Macau. Rooms (with cable) are blandly furnished but there's a good range of facilities, including gym, pool, sauna and a decent restaurant for Cantonese and Sze chuan food. d 82-86 Rua de Pequim, Macau 783 333 The sense that you've travelled back to the 1970s can be fun, but otherwise this ageing hotel, aimed more at Chinese mainlanders than foreigners, is nothing special. Happily, prices are low and it's next to some of Macau's...

ElO Great Escapes

This ten-acre resort offers sea views from its well-equipped rooms. The accommodation complex is unlovely from outside but recreation facilities include pool, pitch-and-putt golf course, tennis courts and running track. d No.1 Castle Peak Rd, Kowloon Map B3 2452 8888 www.goldcoasthotel. com.hk A cheap alternative to city living, magical Cheung Chau's only major hotel offers fine sea views next to good beaches with windsurf and kayak hire. Great coastal walks are around the headland. Furnishings...

Golden Flamingo

Lots of smaller knick-knacks alongside the bigger-ticket furniture at Golden Flamingo include a wide selection of attractive Chinese vases, picture frames and lacquer jewel boxes. 27 F Horizon Plaza Note Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit cards For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine or equivalent meal and extra charges. For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine or equivalent meal and extra charges. under HK 100 HK l00-250 HK 250-450 HK 45...

Tai Long Wan Coastline

Although only a few miles from urban Hong Kong, the remote, pristine beaches on the eastern edge of the rugged Sai Kung Peninsula seem like another country. There is no rail link and few roads, so you will have to make an early start, taking a bus to Sai Kung town, another bus to Pak Tam Au, then walk the hilly 4-mile 6-km footpath to the beach. Alternatively, hire a junk. The reward for your effort will be glorious surf, delightful hidden pools and shaded cafes. There are three excellent...

Tsing Ma Bridge Lookout Point

If big construction projects move the earth for you, then head to the free Airport Core Programme Exhibition Centre in Ting Kau. The viewing platform on the roof offers a great opportunity to photograph the elegant Tsing Ma and Ting Kau bridges. Map D3 For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine or equivalent meal and extra charges. For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine or equivalent meal and extra charges. under HK 100 HK l00-250 HK 250-450 HK 450-600 over...

Kong Lung Seafood

Ching Chung Koon

You can't miss this place -two huge stone lions guard the front door. Deep-roasted crab and steamed abalone with orange crust rate highly. 62 Hoi Pong Rd West, Lei Yue Mun Map F4 Note Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit cards Left Stairs to Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery Centre Railway Museum Right Lek Yuen Bridge Left Stairs to Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery Centre Railway Museum Right Lek Yuen Bridge As A NAME, THE NEW TERRiTORiES is suggestive of frontier country in...

Fat Jong Temple

Although it is one of the most famous Buddhist sites in Hong Kong, the Fat Jong Temple is little visited by foreigners. Making it well worth the journey to see is the Left Chi Lin Nunnery complex Right Lei Yue Mun fish market Left Chi Lin Nunnery complex Right Lei Yue Mun fish market striking colour scheme - with red pillars standing out from the white walls - ornate decorations and magnificent Buddha sculptures. The temple somehow manages to be be both busy and serene at the same time. 175...

Reclamation Street I LJ Market

Pictures Kitchen Utensils Shanghai

If you haven't seen a Hong Kong produce market in full swing, you could do worse than wander down Reclamation Street. This predominantly fruit and vegetable market will provide some good photo opportunities. The squeamish, however, may want to avoid wandering inside the municipal wet market building where livestock is freshly slaughtered and expertly eviscerated on the spot. Map E4 Kitchen utensils shop, Shanghai Street Take the MTR to Prince Edward to start at the top of the Kowloon Peninsula,...