Casa Margarita (@ 678-0957;[email protected]; Calle Real de Guadalupe 34; s/d/tr/q M$350/450/550/650; 0) This popular and well-run travelers' haunt offers tastefully presented, impeccably clean rooms with reading lights, and a pretty courtyard at the center of things. Rates can go down by M$50 to MS100 in low season. There's free internet, an in-house travel agency and a good restaurant.

Hotel El Paraíso (§§ 678-0085; www.hotelposada paraiso.com; 5 de Febrero 19; s/d/tr MS450/650/850) Combining colonial style with a boutique-hotel feel, El Paraíso has a bright, wood-pillared patio and courtyard garden, and loads of character. The high -ceilinged rooms are not huge, and some have limited natural light, but several are bi-level with an extra bed upstairs. The in-house restaurant, L'Eden (opposite), is excellent.

Hotel Diego de Mazariegos (@ 678-0833; www.diegodemazariegos.com; 5 de Febrero 1; s/d/tr/q MS730/780/850/920, ste MS1250-1500; ® ) This classy, long-established hotel occupies two 18th-century mansions built around beautiful, wide courtyards. The 76 rooms are large and decked out with traditional fabrics and fittings, but also have modern comforts, including cable TV. Some have fireplaces (MS 15 per load of wood), and suites have spa tubs. The hotel has a lively tequila-and-mariachi-theme bar.

Hotel Casavieja (§§ /fax 678-6868; www.casavieja .com.mx; MA Flores 27; s/d/tr MS800/850/900, ste M$950-1000; (g (B)) Set in a beautifully renovated 18th-century house with lots of wooden pillars, balustrades and old-world atmosphere, Casavieja also boasts modern comforts. The large comfortable rooms, arranged around flowery courtyards, all have two double beds, heater, cable TV and phone.

Na Bolom (§§ 678-1418; www.nabolom.org; Guerrero 33; s/d/tr/q incl breakfast MS660/880/1045/1100, ste MS1210; (P) @) This famous museum/research institute (p234), about 1km from the plaza, has 16 stylish guestrooms, all loaded with character and all but one with log fires. Meals are served in the house's stately dining room. Room rates include a house tour and wireless internet.

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