Art District Map pp

Yishu XInqu 798 S ffE 6438 4862 2 & 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu admission free (S3 galleries 10am-6pm (some galleries shut on Mondays), bars & bistros open longer (8) 403 or 909 A disused and converted electronics factory, 798 Art District is Beijing's leading concentration of contemporary art galleries. The industrial complex celebrates its proletarian roots in the communist heyday of the 1950s via retouched red Maoist slogans decorating gallery interiors, effigies of Mao and burly, lantern-jawed...

City Life

New arrivals to Hong Kong or Shanghai come primed by both clich and high expectations, thanks to the shared colonial pasts of these cities. In contrast, many first-timers to B ijing arrive with a hazy picture of their destination in their minds. Such confusion is perhaps understandable as airlines still slap a label on B ijing-bound luggage that says 'PEK', a reference to B ijing's previous incarnation as Peking. But while B ijing has changed its name many times, it has been the focal point of...

Index

See also separate indexes for Eating (p255), Entertainment (p255), Shopping (p256) and Sleeping (p256). D ngcheng 83-94, 262 accommodation 182-5 food 127-31 pubs & bars 141-3 shopping 164-6 transport 88 Dongsi Mosque 120 Dongyue Temple 94-5,6 Dragonfly Therapeutic Retreat 155 drinks 46-7,iff also Entertainment index drugstores 228 Drum Tower 86-7 Duan Gate 75 Eastern Qing Tombs 198-9 eating 121-38,iff also Eating index, food Echo Wall 81 economy 14,16,22-3,62 electricity 220 embassies &...

Lao She Museum Map p

LaoSheJinianguan i& B& if 6559 9218 19 Fengfu Hutong, off Dengshikou Xijie adultY10 S9am-5pm ( Tiananmen Dong This modest courtyard museum is dedicated to one of Beijing's most popular 20th-century writers. Author of Rickshaw Boy and Tea House, and former teacher at London's School of Oriental and African Studies, Lao She (1899-1966) tragically committed suicide by throwing himself into a Beijing lake during the Cultural Revolution (whispers of murder continue). Captions are largely in...

Gay Lesbian Travellers

Even though the Chinese authorities take a dim view of homosexuality, which was officially classified as a mental disorder until 2001, a low-profile gay and lesbian scene exists in Beijing. For informative and an up-to-date lowdown on the latest gay and lesbian hot spots in Beijing and the rest of China, have a look at the Utopia website (www.utopia-asia.com tipschin.htm) or invest in a copy of the Utopia Guide to China. The second Beijing International Gay and Lesbian Film Festival was held in...

Skiing

Several ski resorts within reach of Beijing S lure skiers and snowboarders during the winter months. Bear in mind that the Chi- nese ski like they drive, so exercise caution. Nor will the slopes challenge advanced skiers and boarders. 89761886 Xiaogongmen, Shisanling, Changping entrance Y20, skiing per day Mon-Fri Y200, Sat & Sun Y340 345 from Deshengmen, get off at Zhengfa Daxue, then minibus 3 to ski park Not far from the Ming Tombs (p197) and the closest ski resort to town, this resort...

Jingdezhen Ceramic City

M& W, 6512 4925 4867 www.jdtcc.com.cn 277 Wang-fujing Dajie 10am-9pm ( ) Wangfujing Just off Wangfujing Dajie, this huge emporium is spread over several floors with displays of well-lit ceramics from the Jingdezhen kilns. Pieces are modern, but many works on view employ traditional decorative styles and glazes, such as doucai (blue and white and coloured), fencai (famille rose) and qinghua (blue and white).

Wangfujing Dajie To The Forbidden City Walk

This walk takes you along Beijing's signature shopping street before reaching the Forbidden City via historic backstreets, alleys and historic ruins. You can continue from the conclusion of the Tiananmen Square and Foreign Legation Quarter Walk, or simply take the subway to Wangfujing station where this expedition commences. Facing north up Wangfujing Dajie, on your left is the Raffles Beijing Hotel (pl81), while dazzling Oriental Plaza 1 (pl63) sparkles to your east, a gargantuan shopping mall...

Music

In 1986 during a 'World Peace' music concert held in Beijing, a young trumpet player named Cui Jian walked on stage, strapped on a guitar and played a song that would forever change the sound and look of Chinese popular music. With its distinctly abrasive vocal style and lyrics describing feelings of loneliness and alienation, 'Nothing To My Name' ('Yi Wo Suo You') was unlike any song ever performed by a mainland Chinese musician. For early Chinese rock bands like Tang Dynasty and Black...

Sleeping

Hotels in B ijing have undergone a rapid evolution over the past 20 years, but the manufactured and formulaic feel of many establishments persists. Few hotels in the capital have any pedigree, character or strong historic associations that make stays memorable or unique. Nonetheless, comfort and luxury are easy to find as long as you are willing to pay for it and accommodation options in all budget brackets exist. Midrange Chinese-run hotels - three to four star - are frequently uniform and...

Beijing Museum Pass ftMH

This pass (Bowuguan Tongpiao) is a fantastic investment that will save you both money and queuing for tickets. ForY80 you get either complimentary access or discounted admission (typically 50 ) to almost 90 museums, temples ortourist sights in and around Beijing. Attractions covered include a section of the Great Wall at Badaling, Confucius Temple and the Imperial College, the Bell Tower, the Imperial City Exhibition, Miaoying Temple White Dagoba, Dongyue Temple, Zhihua Temple, Fayuan Temple,...

Tiananmen Square Foreign Legation Quarter Walk

From the dignified Gate of Heavenly Peace 1 (p76), take the underground tunnel beneath Dongchang'an Jie to Tiananmen Square (p81), pompously framed to the west and east by the colossal Great Hall of the People 2 (p77) and the China National Museum 3 (p75). Sunrise and sunset is greeted by crowds at the daily flag-raising and flag-lowering ceremony (p82), punctiliously performed at the northern tip of the square. Beyond the Monument to the People's Heroes 4 (p78) sits the squat Chairman Mao...

Regent Beijing Map pYYY

Beijing Lijing Dajiudian 4t l) HXSlfi 85221888 www.regenthotels.com 99 Jinbao Lu d incl breakfast Y1200 (only promotional rate available at time of writing) ( ) Dengshikou (under construction) (D X (S Christmas unwrapped 2006, the lavish brand new 500-room Regent has staked out a precious plot of land on the corner of Jinbao Lu and Dongdan Beidajie to the east of Wangfujing Dajie. Guest rooms are luxuriously-styled and up-to-the-minute (complimentary high-speed internet access, flat screen TVs)...

Ice Skating

B ijing's winter chill clamps the city's lakes in sheets of ice - but the usual warnings apply about safety and ice thickness for those who want to skate (liii bing). Popular outdoor venues include the lake in Beihai Park and the Shichahai lakes southwest of the Drum Tower, where local entrepreneurs m will rent you skates, as well as the lakes on 5 the campuses of Peking and Tsinghua Uni- j- versities. Do not try skating on the moat around the Forbidden City. g 6505 5776 basement 2, China World...

Sights

The neighbourhoods of Beijing, a flat city of largely uniform character uninterrupted by major waterways or hilly terrain, are not clearly delineated by distinct boundaries or physical features, yet the city is divided into numerous historical districts. The Forbidden City acts as the cartographic and physical focus of Beijing, the bull's-eye around which the city's notable historic sights cluster and the city's five ring roads radiate concentrically. Beijing's most historic quarters surround...

Beijing For Children

The weeny ones can dig their heels in and holler when faced with the measureless museum-style torpor of the Forbidden City and the Ming Tombs. Thanks to China's One-child policy, however, Beijing's sibling-less tykes are spoiled rotten by their parents, and the city is bursting with activities to keep toddlertantrums at bay. Beijing Aquarium (p98) isan option fora rainy day, while Beijing Zoo (p98) is a fun outing. ExploraScience (SuoniTanmeng Map pp268-9 85182255 Istfl, Oriental Plaza,...

Fangyuan Hotel Map pY

Fangyuan Binguan Hi tit 6525 6331 www.cbw.com hotel fangyuan 36 Dengshikou Xijie ffTfT P fif36 d inc breakfast Y198-280, ste Y422 ( ) Dengshikou (under construction) Q) Without its strategic location just west of Wangfujing Dajie or helpful tourist info centre, this good-value spot - its front door guarded by a pair of stone felines - would swiftly join the ranks of the anonymous two star. A minor refit has occurred and all rooms - downstairs cheapies included - are comfortable enough. Staff is...

Staples Rice Dishes

Jidan chaofan jichaofan jidan mifan shucai chaofan xifan zhou fried rice with egg fried rice with chicken steamed white rice fried rice with vegetables watery rice porridge (congee) huntun mian jisi chaomian jisi tangmian wontons and noodles fried noodles with chicken soupy noodles with chicken spring onion pancakes pot stickers pan-grilled dumplings steamed buns steamed meat buns clay-oven rolls pan-grilled buns boiled dumplings steamed vegetable buns hi'intun tang san xian tang sttanld tang...

Lost In Translation

Beijing may be a minefield of shoddy English, but nothing is more adept at mangling the language than Chinese-English computer-translating. This run-of-the-mill offering from a Beijing DVD hawker-stall offers a glimpse into the mesmerising chaos of machine translations. The film is Hollow Man 2 and the blurb says 'Christian the history is especially, annoyed detective method gram of Seattle, member living creature learn a of a read, an employ the soldier, they have whatcontact Originallythe...

After

In the spring of 1949 Mao Zedong and the communist leadership were camped in the Western suburbs around Badachu, an area which is still the headquarters of the PLA. On 1 October 1949, Mao Zedong mounted the Gate of Heavenly Peace (p76) and declared the founding of the People's Republic of China, saying the Chinese people had stood up. He spoke only a few words in one of the very few public speeches he ever made. Mao then moved into Zh ngn nh i, part of the chain of lakes and gardens dating back...

Home Inn Map pp Rujia Kuiji Jidin

6317 3366 www.homeinns.com 61 Liang-shidian Jie, Dashilar fflti fl rJ6S 61- - d Y178-218 Q Qianmen B Most branches of this budget midrange chain are unhelpfully scattered around in marginal parts of town, but earmark this one located a short trot south of Tiananmen Square. Double rooms are small, but clean, with modern fittings and bright soft furnishings. Parallel to Qianmen Dajie, Li-angshidian Jie Grain Shop St is gritty and repellent, but that's OK if you only want somewhere to hit the...

Panjiayuan Market

Map Panjiayuan Guwan Shichang iHsiCHSITfTi r 6775 2405 Panjiayuan Qiao S 4.30am-6.30pm Sat amp Sun SGuomao,then 028 Hands down the best place to shop for arts yishu , crafts gongyi and antiques guwan in Beijing is Panjiayuan aka the Dirt or Sunday Market . The market takes place only at weekends and has everything from calligraphy, Cultural Revolution memorabilia and cigarette ad posters to Buddha heads, ceramics and Tibetan carpets. The market hosts up to 50,000 visitors a day scoping for...

Fuel Stop Drum Bell Bar p

This short walk is best undertaken after visiting Beihai Park 1 p84 . Exit the park from the north gate and cross Dianmen Xidajie SnHXfiJ to Lotus Lane 2 Ti nh Fang , which runs along a section of Qianhai Xiyan f j M S j skirting the western shore of Qianhai Lake. Take your pick from one of the waterfront restaurants or caf s - many offering alfresco seating. Keep walking north and exit Lotus Lane onto Qianhai Beiyan f j iiXt j . An optional diversion west leads to Prince Gong's Residence p99...

Bicycle

Flat as a mah jong table, widely supplied with bicycle lanes and riddled with alleys, central Beijing is ideally suited to cyclists. You will need to keep your wits about you on the main thoroughfares, however, as the exponential increase in vehicle numbers has made cycling potentially hazardous. Cycling through Beijing's often car-free hiitdng alleyways is far safer and it's an experience not to be missed see pi 18 , although pollution may have you gagging join the locals donning surgical...

Pla Surplus Store

3501 JunyongpTn Dian ffl m 6585 9312 23 Dongsanhuan Beilu just south of intersection with Chaoyangmenwai Dajie S 9am-5pm Guomao,then u 421 or 701 heading north The Chinese armed forces, the PLA, are the largest in the world and this is where you can pick up some of their kit. Staffed by a cheery crew of middle-aged ladies, it's a good place to find cheap but hard-wearing boots, heavy greatcoats Y125 - ubiquitous in the Chinese winter, fur hats Y42 , long johns and waterproofs. Sturdy...

Chongwen South Chaoyang

Busy with shoppers and tourists alike, these districts are packed with dining options and have places to suit all budgets. You can dine in style at any of the top-end hotels that gather along Chang'an Jie or delve into the areas around the embassy district of Jianguomen for reliably good food. Some of Beijing's most well known Peking duck restaurants can be found around the bustling Qianmen district and there are some excellent restaurants located in the catchment area of the Forbidden City and...

China Millennium Monument

9a Fuxing Lu admission Y30 S 8.30am-5.30pm Junshibowuguan Vaguely resembling a vast sundial pointing directly south to Beijing West Train Station, this cumbersome monument solidifies Beijing's triumphant 21st century aspirations in stone. For such a momentous statement, the design is devoid of imagination or artistry, while examination of the stone cladding shows it already requires repair. The art gallery, however, is worth perusing included in the ticket price and you can pick up boats from...

Imperial Summer Villa

The Imperial Summer Villa is a park covering a vast 590 hectares and bounded by a splendid 10km wall. About 90 of the Imperial Summer Villa is composed of lakes, hills, mini-forests and plains. Passing through the Main Gate Lizheng Men you reach the Front Palace Zheng Gong , containing the main throne hall. The refreshingly cool Hall of Simplicity and Sincerity is built of an aromatic hardwood called ndnmii on display is a carved throne. There are also the emperor's fully-furnished bedrooms, as...

Beijing Saga International Youth Hostel Map pY

6527 2773 sagayangguang yahoo.com 9 Shijia Hutong I i W 9 dm Y55, d Y180 198, tr Y210 Dengshikou under construction H This modern and very popular hostel is ensconced within a historic hutong, offering a standard array of clean and well-kept rooms, a spacious seating area in the main reception area, rooftop common area, table football, a refectory, bar, internet access Y10 per hour and washing machine Y10 per load . Great Wall trips can be arranged, as well as outings to watch acrobats.

Shanhaiguan

The Great Wall meets the sea at Shanhaiguan in Hebei province, where a strategic pass leads to northeast China. The area was originally part of the state of Guzhu during the Shang and Zhou dynasties but came into its own in 1381, when it was developed under General Xuda, who converted it into a fortified garrison town with four gates at the compass points and two major avenues running between them. Until recently, considerable charm survived within the old walled enclosure, although colossal...

Air

Tickets for Chinese carriers flying from Beijing can be booked through most mid-range and top-end hotels, at any one of the ubiquitous ticket offices lln.S'B At Beijing's Capital Airport is 27km from the centre of town about 45 minutes to one hour by car, depending on traffic. A rail linkfrom Capital Airport to Dongzhimen in Beijing is under construction, and due for completion intimeforthe 2008 Olympic Games. Passengers will be able to transfer to the subway system from Dongzhimen station....

Transport

Subway Line 2 The Yonghegong stop serves the Lama Temple and the Confucius Temple, and Ditan Park is a short walk north. Line 5 Still under construction at the time of writing, the north-south Line 5 intersects with Line 2 at Yonghegong in the north and Dongdan in the south, running through Dengshikou, Dongsi, Zhangzizhonglu and Beixinqiao. Bus The double-decker bus 2 runs along Dongdan Beidajie, Dongsi Nandajie and Dongsi Beidajie to the Confucius and Lama Temples bus 5 travels from Deshengmen...