EATING

Ban Wacharachai (0 0 3532 1333; Wat Kasattrathirat; dishes 60-150B; S 10-2am) A must for visiting foodies, this hidden gem is legendary among locals and regular visitors alike for its perfectly executed central Thai-style dishes, not to mention a pleasant riverfront location. The smoked snakehead fish is sublime. To get there, cycle or take a tuk-tuk to Wat Kasattrathirat (known as Wat Kasat); the rambling restaurant is hidden in a thick garden directly north of the temple.

Hua Raw Night Market & Chao Phrom Day Market (Th U Thong) These markets are the highlight of Ayuthaya noshing. The former features several vendors preparing Thai-Muslim dishes.

Phae Krung Kao (Th U Thong; dishes 60-100B; S 10-2am) On the southern side of the bridge, this floating restaurant is so popular that Thai locals even rouse their geriatric grandmas for a night out.

In the past, Ayuthayans got their noodle fix from boat-based vendors who hocked their bowls along the city's canals and rivers. Today the vessels are all landlocked, but the famous kuaytiaw ruea (boat noodles) remain as popular as ever. Lung Lek (Th Chee Kun; dishes 15B; S 9am-4pm) serves incredibly intense ki'iaytiaw ruea with pork or beef. Look for the open-air tent-like structure. Slightly more popular, but not as spicy, is Paa Lek (Th Chee Kun; dishes 10B; S 9am-4pm), a sprawling roadside stall next door to the city's telephone authority.

Sweet snacks associated with Ayuthaya include roti saay mai (thin pancake-like sheets wrapped around candy floss), available from numerous vendors near Phra Na-korn Si Ayuthaya Hospital. Khdnom bd bin (tiny pancakes made from sticky rice flour and shredded coconut meat) can be found at the market behind Wat Phra Mongkhon Bophit.

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