On the northern end of the stunning Bahía Concepción, Mulegé is a small town and it feels that way. People are friendly, and the longer you stay, the more you begin to recognize the characters that make the place unique: the old man who disappears behind the door off the plaza, the bicycle repairman who once rode to Guatemala, the hotel owners and shop owners, the guy who sells hot dogs on the plaza every night. The town has two faces: the Mexicans and the itinerant, slightly cliquey gringo residents who come and go with the seasons. You could spend a couple days here or shack up for weeks, getting to know every taquería, every snorkeling spot, every beautiful beach on the bay and every adventurous hike into nearby Cañon de Trinidad. The diving is outstanding, and the water is warm year-round.

Mulegé was badly flooded during Hurricane John in 2006, but almost everything was up and running upon our most recent visit.

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