There are more taquerías on Blvd Olachea than you can shake a tortilla at, and they all make for great people-watching. For more cheap eats, hit the Mercado Central on Av Juárez between Hidalgo and Bravo.

Lonchería La Pequeña (cnr Blvd Olachea & Bravo; mains US$2-4; h 5am-10pm) For good, cheap antojitos and sandwiches, look for this place, on the west side of Olachea, with the palapa roof, no walls, makeshift kitchen, dirt floor and five oilcloth-covered tables inside. It's a real deal and the food is delicious.

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