Moremi Wildlife Reserve

The 3000-sq-km Moremi Wildlife Reserve is the part of the Okavango Delta officially designated for wildlife protection. The park has a distinctly dual personality, with two large areas of dry land - Chiefs Island and the Moremi Tongue - rising between vast wetlands. Habitats range from mopane woodland and thorn scrub to dry savannah, riparian woodlands, grasslands, flood plains, marshes, waterways, lagoons and islands.

The entry gates at North and South Gate both have developed camping grounds. Rustically beautiful Third Bridge, 48km northwest of South Gate, is literally the third log bridge on the road and has a lovely camping ground. Be aware that swimming is extremely dangerous here due to crocodiles and hippos. At Xakanaxa Lediba, the camping ground occupies a narrow strip of land surrounded by marsh and lagoon. With one of the largest heronries in Africa, it's a bird-watcher's paradise. All camping must be booked through the Department of Wildlife & National Parks (see p843).

Set amid sausage and jackalberry trees just outside Moremi, Camp Okavango (per person US$325; (PI) has elegant taste, and the staff are famous for their meticulous attention to detail. Book

THE OKAVANGO POLERS TRUST

The Okavango Polers Trust (®) 687 6861) was established in 1998 by the people of Seronga to provide cheaper and more accessible mokoro trips and accommodation for visitors. Since the collective is run entirely by the village, all profits are shared by the workers, invested into the trust and used to provide the community with better facilities. The trust directly employs nearly 100 people, including polers, dancers, cooks, managers and drivers. Since no travel agency or safari operator has its fingers in the pie, the cooperative can afford to charge reasonable prices for mokoro trips. Although it's not uncommon to pay upwards of US$100 per day for a mokoro trip out of Maun, the trust charges US$30 per day for two people. Keep in mind, however, that you must self-cater (ie bring your own food, water and, if necessary, camping and cooking equipment).

There's no longer a daily bus from Mohembo, near the Namibian border, to Seronga, but it's almost always possible to hitch from the free Okavango River ferry in Mohembo. Plan on paying about US$0.75 for a lift. When they're operating, water taxis run along the Okavango between Sepupa Swamp Stop (see p851) and Seronga (US$3, two hours); transfers from the Seronga dock to Mbiroba Camp, 3km away, cost US$9. Otherwise, Sepupa Swamp Stop charters 18-passenger boats for US$90.

To Rundu (184km) Mucusso

Andara

Bwabwata NP

Kavango

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To Ghanzi (162km)

Camp Okavango 1 D3

Chitabe Camp 2 E4

Delta Camp 3 D4

Drotsky's Cabins 4 B2

MbirobaCamp 5 C3

Nxabega Okavango Camp 6 C4

Semetsi Camp 7 D4

Sepu pa Swam p Stop 8 B2

Shinde Island Camp 9 D3

Stanley's Camp 10 E4

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