Bamiyan Central Afghanistan

Darreh-ye Bum_

OOazak

OB Kg

besao n D

i Rud

Chaghcheran O

Dowlat Yar

Badgah

Kamenj Q/VI/raret Jam Rud o

i Rud

Chaghcheran O

Anate Sediq

Lal-o-Sar Jan gal

Qocanghi^ Khadir riayo

Anate Sediq

Dangako

(3350m), en route to Panjao. The views, over the pastel-brown mountains topped with rocky crags, are wonderful. There are plenty of herds of goats and sheep here, and a succession of pretty valleys threaded with shallow rivers to be forded. Five hours after leaving Yawkawlang, the road reaches the bazaar town of Lal-o-Sar Jangal.

Lai (as it's locally known) is the traditional limit of Hazara territory, and sits below the Kirmin Pass (3110m), the watershed between the Helmand river system, flowing south, and the Hari Rud, which the road follows until it reaches Herat.

Lai's bazaar is well stocked and is overlooked by a ruined fort. There are several chaikhanas - the Sdaqat Hotel (near the fuel station, 70Afg) on the southern edge of town is adequate. Minibuses leave in the morning to Chaghcheran (500Afg, eight hours) and Panjao (lOOAfg, two hours).

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